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Sense its a GT I am going to assume it has a 3100 engine and the PCV is under the intake. You can replce it but unless you have over 150000 miles on it you probably don't need to. They hardly ever give any problems on those cars. If I am not right about the engine let me know and i`ll give you the you need. Ray

On my '99 Grand Prix GTP SuperCharged. + Standing in front center of the car + Remove the plastic cover + On TOP, the back right hand corner, there is a small flat plate with 2 small bolts on it. + Remove 2 bolts, lift up Plate and Gasket + Remove Spring + Remove PCV with O-ring + Put O-ring on new PCV and put PCV back in hole + Put Spring back in hole on top of PCV + Replace Gasket and Plate + Tighten down the 2 bolts + Put Plastic Cover back on and tighten nut. I would change it(PCV) out every time I changed the oil. PCV's only cost about $2.50 and keeps your car motor from building up too much pressure and keeps your car from getting oil leaks. Also I personally use Mobil 1 oil. Now drive it like you stole it! Dexter

Every Grand Prix GT I have ever seen had the 3800 engine in it, usually supercharged, that's why its called a GT. The standard run-of-the-mill SE models have the standard 3100 engine in them. BUT,...if you buy a car new, DIRECT FROM THE FACTORY, then a person could order their car with either engine! If you got the money to burn, a person could have General Motors drop a V8 in their SE or GT model

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You would be better off getting an actual SC motor from a parts car than trying to swap an SC onto a standard 3.8L LX. The SC motor is designed for the boost application, as it has forged crankshaft, rods, and better pistons to handle the boost. A normal 3.8L would not handle the boost you can get out of the M90 Eaton blower that the SC's came with. You would most likely end up breaking something in the bottom end, and then have to start all over w/ a new motor. Check out www.tccoa.com for more info on this.

Jay

As pointed out, above.. PLUS.. 3.8L engines already had a problem with head gaskets....It is not practical for the sometime mechanic to add forced induction to those engines.

In fact the BEST way to do it is to find a wrecked SuperCoupe and swap EVERYTHING.

Or sell your LX and buy a SC

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There are lots of different sizes so backspacing may be a problem but I believe the 88-92 grand prixs have the same bolt pattern as the 99 and up grand ams 5x115. 85-98 grand ams are 5x100 but so are 99 and up grand prixs

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The tank will have to be removed, and flushed.

then I would invest in a locking gas cap..

The whole sugar in the tank thing appears to be an urban legend/myth so tank removal or replacement would be unnecessary.

Read more at:

http://www.snopes.com/autos/grace/sugar.asp

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5X100MM

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If your fan control speed #1 stops working and then #2 stops working I believe it is the blower motor modual it is sometimes called blower motor resistor block.It is behind the fan motor , up under the passenger side of the dash and against the firewall. If you are looking underneath the dash, you will see a little black box in the position I described. It is being held in by 3 or 4 gold hex screws that are (I believe) .25'. Its not the fan motor control switch ....return that $165.00 part .....the blower motor modual is about $25 if you get it wholesale. These parts are usually not in stock and have to be imported from the Czech Republic, so order early.

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For pics and instructions for the Grand Prix GT check out.

http://macgp.clubgp.com/howto/engine/pcv/gt/pcv.html

.

"G"

It is in the intake behind the throttle boly.

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Yes it will I had a tensioner pulley give out on mine that had to be replaced due to having an incorrect belt, and incorrect routing. I ran for over a week while I waited for the proper belt, and replacement pulley to get to me. The Supercharger does indeed make a difference in power, but if you have to run without it you'll be ok. I wouldn't bypass the supercharger on purpose because it may even decrease your gas mileage, but again the car will run without it if need be.

11/11/07 -After 10 years of ownership, and 30 minutes of running my GTP without the supercharger belt, I believe it will continue to run successfully at a greater level naturally aspirated. I will report the results as they come...

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I noticed a nice gain in fuel economy by doing an intake system and exhaust system. One thing to note on these cars, is that they are computer controlled, every 30 miles the computer reprograms itself to optimize your fuel economy. I have seen from 33 up to 38 mpg with just the 2 above modifications.

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I don't recommend any aerosol belt dressing, most are no different than WD-40 in composition. I'd check your belt for wear, cracks, and possibly foreign debris (ie: pebbles, glass etc). If your belt appears to be structurally sound, then take a lithium grease-stick and hold it on your belt for a few seconds as the engine runs... this will quieten your belt.

Or you could tighten up the belt as well. Once belts get old, they start to stretch, resulting in a loose squeaky belt.

answer make sure belt has correct tension. also use belt dressing on belt. available at any auto store

I'd highly discourage using any type of aerosol spray for two reasons:

1. The sounds usually gets worse seconds after you apply it.

2. It usually leaves a nasty residue not only on the belt, but on parts around it and if the belt is too loose and you have to tighten it, you have to clean all that crap off of it.

It's either too loose or there's something wrong with it....as stated above.

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It probably is the bearing in the hub in the right rear wheel.

My car is doing the same thing after I got my rear bearing changed. I'm guessing that the screwed up. It's your bearings. It cost me almost $300 not including alignment.

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Over 210

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Cars can catch fire for all sorts of reasons. Most of the time, it is because of accidents. If a car gets hit in its gas tank or the engine has taken a severe hit, a slight spark or electrical impulse, such as when batteries get ruptured, can cause a fire. Poorly maintained cars can catch fire too. Leaking gas lines, head gaskets, cracked blocks, cracked radiators, leaking fuel lines, and the list goes on, are all potential fire hazards. This is the reason why you change your fluids, especially oil every so many thousand miles. Doing so helps keeps your car's seals intact a long time. Pretty much all of a car's fluids including the car itself are flammable. Usually heat and electrical sparks plus a leaking automotive fluid (doesn't matter which one) is all it takes for a vehicle fire to start.

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Should be at the upper end of the brake pedal under dash area

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The 99 does not, so it's likely that the engineers at GM skipped this useful doo-dad on the 2000 also. Too bad, as the greasing helps the suspension last far longer than the sealed units...

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Some people will remove the two front motor mounts (dog bones) and with the car in park push the car forward to rotate the engine and apply the parking brake to hold the car. (Carefull not too far and damage the radiator) If you can get your eng to rock forward, that gives you more room in the rear to remove the back three plugs -this is the easiest way. Or with alot of patience and small hands (because there just isn't much room behind the engine) a swivel and an extension.

I would recomend that you replace the plug wires at the same time because the boots usually break when you remove them and with the engine rotated forward they are easier to get at.

When re-installing the new plugs, it is important to make sure you get several turns on the plug before putting a wrench on it. The last thing you want to do is cross thread a spark plug. The new plugs should almost bottom out before requiring a wrench.

Dont skimp on plugs and wires, pay the extra $$ for premium and save yourself some headaches and performance problems.

(source: http://www.grandprix.net/)

Hope this helps.

G

//This may not help on the 1999, but my 2002 GT has a hole on one of the "dog bone" bracket mounts that keeps the engine pitched forward. I used a two foot cheater bar to roll the engine forward and put the bolt through this hole and the bracket. This gave me enough room for my larger hands and the tools that I used. Hope this helps. Peace. - Spartandude

HolderOfLyte-

I drive a 1996 Grand Prix SE v6 (3.1L) I just did this about ten minutes ago. the front 3 plugs were a no brainer. For the rear three i did what everyone said with rolling the engine forward. I un-bolted the front 2 engine mounts and raised them out of the way. On a flat surface i put the car in park (engine off), and began to rock it forward. When it was up far enough i locked the e-brake (takes a few tries to get it in the right position). I then proceeded to lay on top of the engine and reached behind. The view of the plugs are still very limited, however it is MUCH easier this way. It becomes a game of fondeling the plugs essentially until you can get the plug boots off. i dont know about anyone else's, but my plug boots were all stuck on in the rear. No matter how good u are, u still need an extension bar, or else dont even try. I used a spark socket and about a 7" or 8" extension bar. the whole thing took me about an hour, as i have never done it before.

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well, it depends on if you are willing to lift it. most cars can fit up to about 25-30 inch tires &/or rims.

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Reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. This will erase the codes from the computer. If everything is okay, the CHECK ENGINE light will stay off. The codes are stored in the computer when there is a problem. Even if you fix the problem, the codes are still there until you reset the computer.

When the key is first turned to ACC an air pump will pump the additional air out of the tank and lines. You can hear it - and so check for the sound first to make sure it is working. This is what this error is about - your loosing pressure in the fuel system. The computer tracks the number of trips and will TURN ITSELF OFF only after you have completed TWO successful trips with the tank pressurized. These are actual trips from what I understand the car has to operate for 15min. You can use an ODB-II reader and clear the codes - but the underlining problem will only throw the code again - so save your money.

- Check your gas cap and replace it if it is not fitting tightly or the gasket looks worn. If you suspect the gasket - get some petroleum jelly and put it around the cap gasket to help it get a good seal. TWO trips remember - it won't work the first time. If you try two trips and this still doesn't work - replace the gas cap for around $25.00 maybe even get a LOCK cap since most GM's don't have a secure gas tank. This is the easiest thing to do - so give it a try. You'll like it;)

- I found that the gas cap light problem occurs during the winter season mostly because of the change in air temp. There is an EVAP system that I understand tries to take water out of the fuel (from condensation I assume). There can be ice build up on the EVAP VALVE. Park the car in a warm spot and let everything warm up. This is a cheap solution - so give it a try. You might like this better!

- There is something called an EVAP VALVE at the end of the EVAP system and this fails or gets stuck frequently on the 3800 engines (Pontiac Grand Prix) (not sure if the EVAP system is considered part of the engine setup. The original dude that answered this post mentioned his Malibu had it on the top of the tank and had a solinoid - I can't imagine GM would use terribly different design for these cars - so have a look in the trunk or under the seat.

- The next option is to get the ODB-II code from the engine itself and see what your in for. There are a number of codes thrown depending on how big the issue is going to be. You can look the code up once you have it. The code will not tell you it is such and such it will only tell you how big the problem could be (large leak v.s. small leak). Mechanics have a diagnostic chart which has them comb over the EVAP system looking for potential issues. I have this chart for the 199- models and it is not terribly far off from my 2005 - the codes are slightly different.

FYI on the Dealership. Never take your car to the dealer they are incompetent. I bought my car from Roy Foss - THE WORST service ever. I later found out that they sold me a car with half the transmission missing. Mechanic said it should never have driven off the lot. Great car crappy dealership network - ROY FOSS - never buy from these people.

This is to share my side about that light Check Gas Cap. I bought it brand new and that light was on when I drove it home. Brought it back the next day and have it re-set. Following day it came on again. Brought it back and have it scheduled for testing. Smoke testing. They replace the gas tank. Brand new and have parts replaced already. Just imagine making new car smell like oil already. Mechanic dirty. After a week from the day of repair the same problem came out, check gas cap. Brought it back and they said crack gas carbon filter whatsoever they call it is crack and need to be replaced. Have to rent car which warranty pay for it but not the sales tax. Lo and behold no more Check Gas Cap light. Take it to test. Loosen gas cap if it works. No lights come on. I notify dealer and they try to explain any way they want to explain. I suspect that Check Gas Cap light was being disabled. I suspect that there was no problem on fuel system but the program or sensor are not working right. I complain to BBB and GM offer me one year of free oil change. I dislike their customer service representative.

Just so you know, there is absolutely no way to disable the check gas cap message on your car. You really think that a dealership, which gets paid to work on your car, is going to break federal law and their franchise agreement just to screw with you?

Reason the light did not come on is that the EVAP self test only runs under certain conditions. And what "program or sensor not working right" would you be referring to?

2/4/2010 - After replacing the gas cap, and the above not clearing the problem, I took my 2005 Malibu maxx (133K miles) to my favorite professional shop...they diagnosed my problem as stuck evaporator solonoid. I was told it is on top of the tank, on the passenger side. Replacement will be about $170.

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i think, but don't hold me to this, on the driverside just below the air filter box. postioned to the torqconverter case next to the tranny. u can see a throttle cable attached to this position sensor if i am not mistaking this to a taurus...

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There is two knock sensors on this engine, one is on the engine block closest to the firewall below the spark plugs, the other one is on the opposite side of the engine block closest to the front of the vehicle beside the oil filter.

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It makes the hinge more rigid and keeps it from buckling backwards when the wheel hits bumps. Don't even think about driving if it is missing!

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YES BUT THE RIDE WILL BE ROUGH IT'S NOT EVEN WORTH IT. IT LOOKS NICE BUT AT THE SAME TIME YOUR KILLING YOUR TRANNY YOUR SPEEDOMETER WILL BE WAY OFF SO YOU WILL PROBABLY BE GETTING TICKETS UNLESS YOU RECALIBRATE YOUR SPEED FOR THE TIRE SIZE CHANGE.

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Since there is no answer yet, I'll add my two cents. I BELIEVE it is possible. I think that the engines are interchangeable like in two year increments or something. Like a 91 engine will go into a 91 or 92, and a 93 will go in a 93 or 94. However, I'm not certain.

-Revision- I don't think you can because of the completely different motor mount design. The 91s used a completely different design than the 92-02 models. I think the 92-95 models are interchangeable, the 96-99s and the 00-02s. Keep in mind the PCM might need reprogrammed at the dealer if you change years.

The mounts may be different between the years but leave the original mounts in when swapping. The 91/92 cranks are different than the rest of the years so you can only swap between thos two.