Push the set button. Then within a few seconds push seek and or scan to change the hours and or minutes.
There is a retaining clip you need to pry out from around the perimeter of the regulator. I took mine out and found a lot of dirt on the screen. I cleaned that off and the bad symptoms went away without changing out the regulator.
The 2002 Buick air filter housing is located on the top of the engine. Remove the air filter housing cover. The air filter simply lifts out. Drop a new air filter in and replace the air filter housing to its original position.
I guess you're asking about how to bleed the brakes. Start at the aft right side tire. remove it and there will be a nipple near where the brake line comes into the caliper. Open the hood and open the brake fluid and top off the fluid. then if possible get a tube that fits over the nipple at the RH caliper and place the end of the tube into a bottle other catch basin. With two people, one at caliper and one at driver's seat, begin to follow this process: Using a #10 wrench, twist the nipple to open it slightly. Have the person at the driver's seat depress the brake pedal (I do this with the engine running). Hold down pedal and close the nipple. Repeat until no more air escapes from the nipple. It is best on the last stroke to close it DURING the depression of the brake pedal. Repeat with aft left side caliper. Repeat with front RH caliper and finish with front LH caliper. they make bleeding tools if you are onlly one person. the one I like best is the kind that you use at the caliper and it suctions the fluid through the system into it's own cup/container. Good luck! Be careful working around a jacked car. Best to use a stand under the axle.
hello, did anything eise stop working like dome lights,pass,side pwr seat or prw antenna ? if so check ground(black) wires.i found a coroded splice connector on rt.side kick panel area under carpet. as soon as i touch connector it started working. i cut all black wires , stripped ,sodiered and taped up. also clean up and eye termnal and bolt .
I'm not sure why, but I had a 1995 Buick that did the same thing.
I spent all kind of money with several differant mechanics, that never did
fix the problem. I finally traded the car on the day that it was running.
The car seemed as though it was haunted! Sorry I couldn't help.
TRADE THE CAR when it's running.
If you are trying to remove just the plastic portion, there is screw inside at the top of each the four air ducts that need to be removed. I think the screws along the glove box need to be removed also.
Remove the 2 trim plates on either side, then remove the 2 7mm screws...then pull the cover towards you and you can access the bulbs
I had an intermittent problem with that sensor on my PA. When the error code in the computer was checked, it showed up as a problem. I had it replaced. The cam sensor can cause a similar problem.
Possibilities:
* Low or dead battery which can mean that you left the lights on, have a faulty battery or a faulty charging system. * Poor electrical connection between the battery and the battery cable. * Poor electrical connection between the battery cable and the starter. * Some other condition which can reduce the current to the starter.
Remove wheels
Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston in to caliper body
Replace inner and outer brake pads
Re-install caliper
PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
You cannot disconnect it but you can bypass it.
First you need to know the resitance of the chip in your key, then you can go to an electronics store and but whatever combination of resistors you need to match (or comver very close) to the value of the key. ( you can find exact values online if you search) Once you have those crawl into the drivers footwell and you'll see either two wires coming down the steering wheel or one thicker white one which contains the two individual wires (usually orange). Cut this. You can let the end that goes up to the lock just be, ther no electricity going to or from it. The wires going down will need to have the resistor(s) you bought soldered across them. Ive seen wire wrapping work but I've also seen them come loose.
Now you cars security system thinks it always has the key in it.
This is what installers have to do to install a remote starter by the way.
Miles driven divided by MPG = gallons used. Gallons used multiplied by price per gallon = total price spent for miles driven. Total cost divided into total miles = cost per mile.
Take the price of gas and divided it by your cars mpg.
Price of Gas Per Gallon/Miles Per Gallon = cost per mile.
$3.12 per gallon/ 22 mpg = 14 cents per mile.
It is in the owners manual available from MOTORLIT.COM.
un hook the battery and let it sit for 30 min
The fuel distribution systems on engines have gone through many changes over the years. Carburetors were used at first, then the manufacturers installed throttle bodies on engines and then came the fuel injectors. Carburetors and throttle bodies have a fuel line running to them, whereas injectors have a fuel rail; several injectors feed off the same rail. The 99 Buick Park Avenue vehicle uses a throttle body mechanism. Always clean the engine compartment with a pressure washer or garden hose to remove oil and dirt that might get into the engine before removing the throttle body. If it is heavily soiled, you may want to use a degreaser.
Step 1
Raise the hood of the Buick and use the 8-mm wrench to loosen the battery cables. Turn the nuts on the battery posts counterclockwise. Once the cable ends are loosened, lift them off by hand.
Step 2
Remove the dust cover shield from the top of the engine by removing its securing screw with the flat-head screwdriver.
Step 3
Disconnect the throttle cable and the cruise control cable, if the vehicle is equipped with these components. Use the needle-nose pliers to squeeze the side of the cable mounts--this allows the cables to slide out of their mounts. Undo the ends from the throttle body.
Step 4
Use the fuel line disconnect tool to disconnect the fuel line from the throttle body.
Step 5
Remove the wire connectors from the throttle body and from the intake tube.
Step 6
Use the flat-head screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the intake tube and remove the tube from the throttle body.
Step 7
Use the 10-mm socket and ratchet to remove the four bolts that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold. Remove the throttle body when it drops.
You need to test the alternator (#1) then the elec system for a draw. The alt genrates a magnetic field (metal will stick to backside while turning) to test for a draw, string a test light between pos cable & batt with everything off.
You will need to check the dash controller to make sure that it is operating correctly first for both sides..............
You probally have a bulb gone on the right side for your turn signals. When a bulb is gone the lights will not flash but instead come on solid.
If your bulbs test OK or replacing them does not fix it, you may have the problem I had.
If your emergency flashers work but one of the turn signals will no longer come on, the most likely part failure is the multi function turn signal lever. If
A simple test for this is to remove the light bulb from the cornering lamp (the bright light that illuminates the side that you are turning to, not the turn signal bulb). After removing the bulb, retest your turn signal. If, like mine, it resumes flashing, that would indicate that the turn signal lever can not handle the electrical load anymore and may need to be replaced. Or if you can live without the cornering lamp, you can postpone the repair til a later date. You can test the resistance on a couple wires in the C202 connector to be sure. - bowfan
Listen 2 ME HE Is So RIGHT,,, The Front Cornering Lights Draw Tons Of AMPS and in 1996,97 to 2012 Buick has there turn signal statts made in Canada which is great but the signal stats can not handle the cornering light loads and then the turn signal stat contacts BURN OUT" So Remove Your Cornering lights to Save Your Signal Stat and if State inspection give you issue then put in a White LED light. new signal stat run 160 bucks off eBay to 350bucks at auto parts. Turn Signal Wiring Is 1 pink wire from ignition side fuse box to turn signal switch right/left use same power, orange wire left, black wire for right now your cornering lights draw many amps, now power goes to flasher relay modual located steering coloumn right side above relays, very short pigtail on Flasher Relay, Square pigtail with like 9 wire, inside relay is 2 flasher relays 1 for left / right the other for hazard light and looks like common ground for everything. Found Free Wire Schmatic at AutoZone.Com Web Site.
Two possible reasons, 1. The steering rack and pinion is going bad! This is common in high mileage GM vehicles. this if your pump is in good condition.... 2. Check the rear stub frame body insulators to body. The metal washers go bad letter the complete stub frame drop down causing misaligment in all movable parts. I haave had min. of 3 in the past year seems to effect all large Buick models, Park Avenue and Lesabres