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Under the back seat. Under the back seat.

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I'm not sure but I've had the bottom seat out and that just popped out with a lift in the front on each side of the seat. The battery is in there so they're made to come out easy. From there the back of the seat bolts should be visable and you just remove them and you should have access to all belt assemblies. But the real reason I wrote, there was a recall on 1995 rear seat belts that I found on the net. Check with the dealer and have your VIN number available and maybe you'll get them done free.

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Hey MM==As far as I know it is like the rest of the 3800 engines and in in the intake manifold. There should be a hose going from it to the throtle body. Good luck Joe To replace the PCV valve: 1) Remove SC plastic shroud, 2) Note the black plastic PCV cover about 3 inches to the right of the shroud bolt, on top of the SC/Intake Manifold. It does not have a hose connected to it!! 3) Remove the 2 10mm bolts and lift off the PCV Cover. 4) A hold down coil spring can be removed and 5) the PCV valve sits in the recess. Reverse assembly with new PCV valve. With this location DO NOT EXPECT big change in operation - the old valve just gets a little varnished... To replace the PCV valve: 1) Remove SC plastic shroud, 2) Note the black plastic PCV cover about 3 inches to the right of the shroud bolt, on top of the SC/Intake Manifold. It does not have a hose connected to it!! 3) Remove the 2 10mm bolts and lift off the PCV Cover. 4) A hold down coil spring can be removed and 5) the PCV valve sits in the recess. Reverse assembly with new PCV valve. With this location DO NOT EXPECT big change in operation - the old valve just gets a little varnished...

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the firing order is 12784563 you can also check valve cover still maybe on there

or go to 401 nailhead-v8buick.com

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the best way is to open the decklid to gain acces to the light. Grasp the socket where the wires meet the body and twist gently to the right or left . it only goes one way. the socket will come out of the lens and you pull the bulb straight out. replace it with a new bulb, then reverse what you did to take it out.

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The 1995 Riviera is a odd year, because it has the OBD2 connector with an OBD1 system. Most of your over the counter code scanners won't work for this car. The Actron 9150 claims it will work. The best price I've seen them is on eBay. You can find the connector if you look under the steering wheel. It should be about 12 pin connector. You can verify the OBD system by looking at the sticker under the hood. I have the same car, and same problem.

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Buy Quick Diconect tools At a parts store.They come on a strip in various sizes.

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The wires to the ignition switch are broken. Ignition switch should be replaced or VATS system can be by-passed.Check with car alarm installers. This is cheaper than replacing switch, but you will lose anti theft system. It is possible that the resistor in the key itself has been damaged. A dealer would be able to make you a new key. Make sure you have your VIN number in case they need to contact GM to get the key codes. hello i had a buick tech fix it at the bottom of the steering column 40 dollars instead of 400 for keys and ignition

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how to repair bcm code b112 87 riviera

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lay down just under the turn signal. you will find a panel under the car undo the two screws remove panel door the rest is a cake walk

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The code 41 can be things other than the cam sensor. It's a good bet this is your problem. There is a magnet on the cam gear. It's there to trigger the cam sensors its location to the engine management computer. They can fall out and set the cam sensor code. It's a big job and you need to remove the timing cover and replace the magnet. Good luck

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HI, most local libraries have an online system called AllData. It is what alot of paid Mechanics use to diagnose and fix alot of issues on cars. I have used it for quite a few cars. It takes just a little time to find what your looking for , but it is free of cost to use. It cost 10 cents to print out a page of information.

I am in St.Louis MO and that is what they use here. IT should have most information for your vehicle, including wiring diagrams, error codes , ect.

.

JY

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ON THE 1995 BUICK RIVIERA THE HORN IS LOCATED UNDER THE LEFT HAND SIDE FENDER. U WILL HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE TIRE AND REMOVE THE FENDER PANEL. THE HORN WILL BE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE LEFT INNER FENDER.

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Probably left lower side of steering column against firewall

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yes there is- its called walking back to the fuel door and opening it like any other car.

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I had to try one additional part. I thought the pressure regulator resolved my problem. With an outside temperature at 45 degrees the car started up great. An outside temperature at 65 degrees caused the car to stall after the initial start-up. The intake air temperature sensor ($16.00) was replaced and this solved my problem.

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Where the Upper radiator hose connects 2 the Engine there is a gooseneck(mounting adapter) take off the housing & there should b a thermostat there IF somebody hasn't removed it.

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Many cars have the diagrams for vacuum hose routing on a sticker somewhere either on the underside of the hood or in the engine compartment somewhere. If none exists, you'll need a manual for the car to see the complete routing.

www.autozone.com has vacuum hose diagrams for all vehicles.

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== == There are three electronic actuators under the dash: one is for the defroser, one is for the bank of four passenger vents and one ( this is you) sends air to the two driver side vents, the two mid-dash vents and the two rear vents. Either this actuator is faulty, or there's a problem with the electrical delivery system; mainly, the whole climate control panel in your dash (dealer cost: about $700.00).

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Both the 20 amp fuse and the horn relay on 95 Buick Riviera are located in the under hood fuse box in the engine compartment just behind the passenger side headlamp.A detail of the fuses in this fuse box can be found on the inside cover of the box.

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Firewall 6 3 valve cover serpentine belt 2 5 intake manifold 4 1 valve cover front of car Shaune.

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In order to remove the alternator you must first remove the belt. The alternator is held in place by two bolts and one will require a 13 mm socket to remove it and the other one requires a 13 mm wrench to remove the nuts while holding the long bolt with either another 13 mm wrench or socket. The alternator takes some force to remove it and pry bar might help. PRECAUTION: When using a pry bar do not use a pulley as a pivot for the pry bar, you will ruin that pulley!!!

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Remove the belt(s). Raise the passenger side front tire, support car with jack stand, and remove front tire. Remove the plastic access panel in the wheel opening. You only have to take out the pop-in fasteners on the front half and then bend the panel so that it is out of the way. Using a 24mm socket or wrench, remove the harmonic balancer bolt. It is tight and an impact wrench would be useful here. You will need a universal type balancer puller, such as the ones Snap-On and others sell which have 4 slots. There are 3 oval openings in the face of the balancer. Under these slots are threaded holes to attach the puller screws. The holes are 1/4 inch fine thread (1/4-28 UNF). You will need three 1/4-28 x 3 inch long screws. The screws in my puller kit weren't long enough so I had to get some at a local hardware store. Attach the puller to the balancer being careful not to run the ends of the screws in too far. About 1/4 inch in is OK. Depending on the size of your puller's center bolt, you may have to put some sort of spacer into the opening for the balancer screw to keep from damaging the crankshaft. I used a small deep-well socket. Run the puller's center screw in slowly until it begins to tighten up against the bottom of the hole or puller, whichever is the case. I used an air impact wrench to tighten the puller and remove the balancer. If this is not available, you may have to hold the balancer with a strap wrench to keep it from turning. Just be careful not to damage the underside of the balancer which has the sensor rings attached to it.

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The Supercharger can be disconnected. My 1998 Ultra had a pulley lockup which caused the belt to come off. I pulled the intact supercharger belt out of the way of moving parts till I had a chance to work on it. A few months later I replaced the pulley and belt, which required raising the engine, pulling bolts out of the motor mount, and weaving the belt into place. I'm not sure it was worth the effort. The car runs very good without boost, for most driving. I continued to use premium fuel, of course. One could just cut the belt off and drive without the supercharger, if desired. So there you have it.

P.S. go to Discussion for more tips.