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check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) click on Owner Guides the diagram / list of fuses can be viewed on-line

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I had to drop my tank due to a bad fuel pump. First, you'll need a socket set with both metric and stardard sockets, and impact wrench is a plus, a 5/16 nut driver and small hands! I did this job with a floor jack and didn't use any sort of ramps. Start by draining fuel from the tank. Mine was 1/4 full so it was managable. Loosen the hose clamps for the fuel filler line and the breather tube. This was not easy and there isn't much room to work. Next, support the tank with a floor jack and a 2x6 scrap about 16-20" long. Then remove the rear and front tank strap held by 1 bolt (5/8 I think). Lower the jack and let the rear of the tank rest on the floor. The hoses may get in the way I had to guide them and bend them to allow the tank to lower. Here is where the fun begins. There is a line running from the rear of the tank around the passenger side of the tank into a box that is positioned on the front passenger side of the fuel tank. Mine had a connection which you could squeeze between 2 fingures and remove. It is the lowest connection on the front side of the box. From here you need to disconnect the fuel line and a secondary fuel line which is connected on the front drivers side on top of the tank. This is done by feel because you can't see it. If you need more room for your arm then you'll have to jack up the rear drivers wheel high enough to get the tank to side back a few inches. You'll need to do this anyway to move the tank around later. The fuel line connections require a fuel line tool from your local auto parts store. You'll need one with 3/8" and 5/16" sizes. Once removed the tank can be slid back and dropped to the floor. The rear drivers side tire must be lifted to allow this. Installation is the reverse and goes much quicker because you know what to expect. This next section pertains to the fuel pump and its testing and removal. The easiest way to test the pump is to turn the car ignition to on, not start, and listen for the whirring sound of the pump. Next remove the 2 cable connectors from the top of the pump which is accessed by removing the 2 bolts holding its protector plate. The square cable has 4 wires going into it. The grey wire is power and the black is ground. Take a tester bulb and push the pointed end in the grey wire slot. Next take the ground alligator clip side of the tester and clamp it to a small nail and push it in the black wire slot. Turn the ignition to on and it sould light for about 3 seconds. If it does your power to the fuel pump is fine! If not, the problem may not be the pump. The pump can be tested by hooking the grey and black wire pins, with alligator clips, to a 12 volt battery. Plan for catching the gas it may discharge. To remove the pump slide the metal hold down disc counter clockwise. I used a hammer and flat screw driver for this. The pump then pull right out thruogh the top. Watch out for the fuel level arm on the pump which stick out the side of the pump. Drain the gas from the pump into a bucket. A new pump cost roughly 280-300 dollars. Napa had it in stock. There are 2 types for the 2001 and they're identified by a 3 letter code in bold type between the fuel line connections. Installation of the new pump is the reverse axcept you'll probably have to change the square connector for the pump to a new flat one. Good luck! It took me 4 hours to get it out and trouble shot the bad pump; I was a first timer. Next time I could do it in 1.5 hrs. It took an hour to put it back in place.

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automatic hubs never trully lock in the simple turning force of the drive axle locks or splines a series of "locking" dowles or teeth together usually they break very easy and ther replacement kits offerd by warn are comparable to oem

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You will need a set of a/c gauges, a vacuum pump, freon and oil....... Put the gauges on both the low and high side ports (blue goes to the low side and red goes to the high side and yellow will go to the vacuum pump).... Vacuum the system down for about 1 hour and then let it sit for 1 hour to see if it will at least hold a vacuum and if so then vacuum it out for an additional 1 hour and then recharge it. Add your freon and oil at a slow pace and watch the gauge readings. Depending the outside temperature you will what the high side to be between 200 to 250psi and the low side to be between 30 to 40psi.

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It is located on the first portion of the air intake. If you look under the first piece in the chain leading up to the air intake, you will see the wire that connects underneath the sensor. You will have to take it all apart, but really easy to fix.

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the front fog light takes bulb number 899 according to my owners manual.

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8,900 pounds....empty diesel fuel tank

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In general it's best to stick with a local ford dealership. They should have both used and new excursions. Just be sure that you haggle a bit to get the best price.

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Most trailer brake controllers require 3 or 4 "inputs" and have 1 output. Ground, any point on the vehicle metal frame. Power, any fused connection that provides power when the key is on. some controllers don't use a power connection. You'll need to refer to the owners manual that came with the controller. Brake light, a signal from the brakes indicating that the brake pedal has been depressed. The output goes to the trailer plug pin that controls your trailer brakes.

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In my 1997 Hyundayi Accent the relay compartment box is located behind the little stoarge compartment in the dashboard on the left side of the steering wheel. The compartment also houses the dimmer for the instrument panel. One has to remove the compartment (easy, it just snaps out), the panel is located right behind the opening.

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6x8 or 5x7 they are both the same

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I actually own one of these, and I think it has a total of six, two on the front doors, two on the rear doors, and two on the panel just behind the the rear doors.

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2005

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its on the passenger side valve cover just changed mine this weekend

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== == Ford reacted to a changing market by eliminating the Excursion and replacing it with a longer version of the Expedition. The Excursion was outsold by the Chevrolet Suburban even though the Excursion was a superior vehicle in many ways. Including; Optional Diesel engine for increased towing power and better fuel economy. Larger Cabin room, A higher towing capacity and a better reliability rating. An increase in fuel costs and the slowing sales of the Larger SUV caused ford to remove it from it's lineup. It's replacement was an extended version of the Ford Expedition.

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If you are loosing coolant, you have a leaking head gasket. If you are loosing oil and have a turbo, the seal on the turbo is bad. either intake manifold gasket or head gasket is leaking

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There is a malfunction in your Anti-Lock Braking system. This could be a safety issue so I suggest you take it to a dealer or reputable service shop at the first opportunity.

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You do not have to replace the PS hoses. Remove the radiator and install a new one.

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44 U.S. gallons ( according to the owners manual )

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On the driver side kick panel. Remove dash panel next to fuse box.

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Simply add fuel to the tank, then cycle the ignition key a few times to forward position without engaging the starter and then it should start fine, assuming that the fuel pump is functioning properly and that the fuel shut off has not been activated. I beleve the fuel shutoff/reset is behind the front passenger kick panel.

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Here is a good site to find that info. http://www.parts.com/ You can look up the individual part here and find the interchange years. A lot of parts are the same from 1995 to 2000. The hood was the same from 98 to 2000.

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disconnect the negative battery cable, wait a couple hours, then reconnect. If you are trying to reset the inspection service light you will need to take it to someone or get on a board for model specific info.