Oil, every 5000mi
air filter i recommend every year.
tune up usually 100.000mi but some manufacturers recommend 120.000. i always keep it safe and do it between 80 or 100k miles. trans fluid, timing belt, etc 60-100k miles. there is more to this but it does not apply to every car
You must know the answer is NO.
Not necessarily true, we're talking about width I assume, the section width of the tire 10" in this case is measured at the widest part of the tire. The bead, the part of the tire that sits on the wheel, is significantly narrower. Just as an example P245/55R20, which is a 10" wide tire lists the apporved rim width as 7.0"-9.0", so depending on the exact size it is very possible that your 10" wide tire could go on a 7" wide rim.
If by "normal brakes", you mean brakes without ABS (Antilock Brake System), then what it means is that the brakes have been pressed hard enough to stop the wheel rotating, so the tires skid and make that loud skidding noise and alot of smoke.
To unlock non-ABS brakes, you need to lessen the pressure on the brake pedal until the wheels start spinning again. This is called feathering the brakes. Non ABS brakes work the best when the wheel is spinning, and the brakes are applied to just before the point where the brakes lock up. This is one reason why driving a race car at the limit is such a skill, since race cars generally don't have ABS. The best race car drivers are those that can apply the brakes the hardest, i.e. just before they lock up.
Having said all that, the majoirty of passenger cars on the road have ABS. This is a system that does that brake feathering for you. So for most people, "normal" brakes do have ABS. You can tell when ABS is kicking in because the brake pedal pulsates under your foot, very noticeably.
ABS controlled brakes never really "lock up", since the ABS is designed to prevent that. The most important thing to do if you need to stop quickly and your ABS system kicks in is not to panic, and to keep the pressure on the brakes. Some people try to feather ABS brakes like they would old style brakes. This is very bad because the ABS system gets confused and doesn't know if you are really trying to stop wuickly or not. It is a good idea to go into an empty parking lot on a rainy day, get up to 25 mph and stomp on the brakes to see what it feels like so in an emergency, you are familiar with ABS.
The final type of lock up is a mechanical failure when calipers get stuck. This typically happens if you put the prak/emergency brake on and leave the car for a long time. The brake pads/calipers can lock in place, and you won't be able to move. This requires mechnical repair, although sometimes putting the car in neutral and rocking it back and forward can help.
It can mean many things. most are ment to squeak when the lining materal is getting thin (needs to be replaced) thay do this with a piece of metal that rubs on the disk to make noise ( can cause damage if it not replace in a timely maner).
Depends on the manufacture. The correct size is written on the tire sidewall of the tires that came on the camper.
Ans 2 -The correct size is almost always stamped into the inside of the rim .
The answer to that would differ a lot depending on what tire you're thinking about, and what the pressure is. Tires come in very different sizes, with very different volumes.
The average tire size is a 24 inch tire,and 8inchs wide.
Generally classified as about 17 inches by 3 wide, the curvature (profile) may result in it being wider with a shallower curvature for mor power and sporting grip on higher performance machines.
No...I wouldn't recommend them. Our shop sold them several years back and always had trouble balancing them and keeping them in balance. Also had fairly fast tread wear.
They make tires in Japan, United States, China, Mexico, Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand, & Russia. Headquarters are in Japan.
There is two ways.
1. Buy new brake pads for the calipers, they may be worn. (Sometimes you can turn the pads around to be rubbed the other way, and that works...)
2. Take some 800 grit (or higher) sand paper (or emery cloth) and lightly sand the rim of the wheel, IF it feels rough only! Sanding the entire rim may CAUSE more binding.
It also depends on the style of brakes. If you have a caliper type brake, many people try to fix it by tightening the front nut and that causes excessive drag. Check your nuts and make sure they're firm but not overly tight. Also, when rust or corrosion gets inside the housing that can cause drag or a binding. Disengage the housing from the frame's cable stop, then slide the housing off the cable to see if there's contamination. If there is, you can either replace it with a new cable or lubricate it with grease, slide the housing back up and then back again. You'll see dirt accumulate so wipe it off until it's relatively clean again and regrease.
Also check the line of your brake cable and make sure you don't have a kink somewhere.
Don't forget to also make sure your wheel is true and straight. That's often overlooked when thinking it's just the brake.
To begin, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Be certain the car is stable and will not roll off jack(s)!
A lot of folks like to think this is complicated and hard without some difficult tools, but it's so easy compared to a ball joint, it's scary.
Remove the brake caliber and the brake pads/rotor. Support the brake caliper with a wire connected to the Strut Tower.
Remove the spindle nut on the end of the drive axle. On the opposite side of the hub bearing are 3 bolts that hold it in there. Using a short-socket 15-18mm and a breaker bar or 1/2'' ratchet, loosen each of the bolts, then once all are loosened, remove them.
Believe it or not, unless the hub assembly is damaged, this thing will litterally fall out (in my case on my foot). Just take grease, (I like axle grease) and slide the new one in, aligning the holes, and getting the bolts back in the right place. Tighten them once all are in place. Put your car back together, retighten the axle nut, (with washer) and your done.
They tried to tell me at various places I needed all sorts of tools, and couldn't do this myself, but on the 1998 Sable, it couldn't have been easier. Now contrast that to the Ball Joint, which is so hard, I'd have taken that to a mechanic had I had the money.
REMOVE FRONT WHEEL, BRAKE CALIPER (13MM SOCKET); CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET (15MM)AND AXLE NUT. YOU'LL THEN BE ABLE MOVE THE HUB ASSEMBLY IN A TINY BIT TO MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE THE 3 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE HUB ON. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE AXLE NUT DONT BE AFRAID TO MAKE IT EXTREMELY TIGHT 250FT LBSThe answer to "How to change a wheel..."remove the wheel, and the brake caliper. unbolt the spindle nut (30mm) and the lower ball joint and push the spindle out of the bearing/hub. undo three bolts from the back side of the knuckle that are holding the wheel bearing package on. then knock off the old wheel bearing with a hammer. lube the new one and press it in, then put things back together in reverse.
NOTE: Autozone now requires (March 09) free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
remove the wheel, and the brake caliper. unbolt the spindle nut (30mm) and the lower ball joint and push the spindle out of the bearing/hub. undo three bolts from the back side of the knuckle that are holding the wheel bearing package on. then knock off the old wheel bearing with a hammer. lube the new one and press it in, then put things back together in reverse.
I have a 1997 Mercury Sable but I think it is still the same as you 99...
First remove the tire, then remove brake caliper (15mm) and the wheel/axle nut (30mm).
Then remove the outer tie-rod end nut (18mm) and disconnect the tie-rod end. This will allow you to turn the hub enough so that you can push the cv halfshalf out.
After the axle is out of the hub or loose enough, you will have access to the 3 screws holding the hub/wheel bearing assamble from behind (15mm)... after you remove the screws you just have to pull the assembly out.. it's not easy but what I did was just hammer it out from behind.
Make sure you clean the area well and perhaps even lubricate it a little bit so you can push the new hub/wheel bearing assembly in.
Installation is just the opposite of removal. I purchased the new hub/wheel baring assembly from Autozone for $69.
I hope this will be helpful to you...good luck!
* remove the wheel, and the brake caliper. * unbolt the spindle nut (30mm) and the lower ball joint * push the spindle out of the bearing/hub. * undo three bolts from the back side of the knuckle that are holding the wheel bearing package on. * knock off the old wheel bearing with a hammer. * lube the new one and press it in, then put things back together in reverse.Is the Hub/Bearing pressed into the steering knuckle?Since at least 1996, the bearing/hub assembly has been simply bolted to the steering knuckle. This makes replacement a whole lot "easier"
That is correct, the bearing is in a complete hub assembly. You do not need to press in the bearing. Bearings for a 2000 Ford Taurus (Front) can be purchased at http://mibearings.com/paypalparts/513100.html
On to the repair instructions and advice...
The hub bearing is purchased a whole unit.
no bearung change!
you can go to napa auto parts they have them I just did 2 front hubs for 97.00 cdn each.
ps b 4 doing the job make sure your wheel nuts fit your new hub
I experienced that my new hubs were diffrnt size
See "Related Questions" below for the Autozone Chiltons repair manual section on front wheel bearing/hub replacement for the 2000-2005 Taurus / Sable
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
where is it mounted/located ?
is there a large wing nut holding it in place?
if so then un screw it
if it is mounted under back of van then you may need the long jack handle extension tool in the van and find the round hole in the bumper and insert the handle extension in the hole and unscrew the mechanism with the tool and the wheel will starts rotating and falling from under the van
Just purchased a set today at America's Tire. Surprisingly, they are made in U.S.A.
it is named after the founder. Benjamin Franklin Goodrich.
Yes, but only during the winter months. Contact your local DMV or police agency to check on the dates.
Tireco is the exclusive distributor of NANKANG made products in North America. http:// www.tireco.com/Product_Detail.asp?CateID=68&LineID=39&ProductID=434
Can you? Yes. Should you? Absolutely not. You will have a tire that is a whopping 11.39% or (10.32 Inches) larger in diameter. Your speedometer will be 12.84% or (7 mph) too slow at 60 mph. Want to go with a 70 series tire then you will have to go with a 155/70-17 which would look horrible on your car if you can even find that size. Stick with the OEM size.
For off road that is the rock bottom minimum. 12 wide would be recommended if your truck is to see the highway. Wheels that are too narrow make the tire crown in the middle of the tread. This causes only the center of the tire to contact the pavement. Which causes tires to wear out down the center, making tire replacement even sooner. Not the mention, not be able to hold the truck in the road. Most people think, okay I'll just let the air pressure down in my tires so they will get a flatter footprint. Yes, maybe, but you'll have to drop them so low that the pressure that you arrive at won't be safe nor applicable for highway or street travel. If a tire shop mounts your 14.5"s on your 10 wide wheels, make sure they don't rip the beads. These tires must be compressed pretty far down when mounting the top bead. Make sure the shop is qualified or express to the manager if they rip a bead, they bought the tire. BEFORE MOUNTING! Good Luck!
Here are more opinions and answers from other FAQ Farmers:
Another ting to try is removing the spark plugs (make sure you re- cord which wires go where) and pro vidind that the engine isn't flooded
spray some starting fluid(avalible at auto parts stores) in the hol where the spark plug was and put the spark plugs back in and try to start it if it begins to start but then shuts off
your problem is proboly fuel delivery, but if the engine is flooded take out the plugs and let it sitt for a while to dry out.
There is a little sprocket in your strarter looks like a cog with teeth on in, but the teeth can chip or break if the metal is cheap which in most cars now days it is. So the starter is turning but the missing teeth are not connecting to make a spark keep turning it samething happened to my Buick but i didnt gte is fixed rite away because if you keep cranking evetually the teeth will catch and ignite
a motor needs fuel/ spark / air / compression all at the correct time check sources of all from major parts to minor (id start with anything electrical) you should find the problem
- One other thing that could possibly have gone bad is the main relay, its a $50 part that gives the fuel pump power when the key is on, so bad relay, no power to pump, no gas, no start.
-you need, spark, compression and a proper fuel mixture for your car to start. Generally, the compression gives way over time, so it is the last thing you should suspect if this problem appeared overnight. First thing you should try is to turn the key to the "on" position (not the crank start position). You should hear an electronic hum coming from the fuel tank. If you don't hear the hum, check the fuel pump relay or fuse. If those are fine, the fuel pump is suspect. If you do hear the hum, your fuel pump is working fine. Check for fuel pressure in the fuel line. It should look like a valve like the one you might find on a bicycle tire. If fuel sprays out, your fuel pressure is fine, which means you can suspect the spark. The battery is not the culprit (it turned the starter remember). Check for spark as noted above. If you don't get spark, check spark from the coil. Depending on the model and technology of your car, you can then suspect the ignition control module (esp. if it was a hot day) , as well as the distributor and all its components like the rotor and distributor cap.
By the way, most, if not all new cars have an inertia trip switch. Mine is under the dash. .
Simply put, friction. If your brakes are overheating then you may have a caliber or wheel cylinder sticking. Replace the part that is sticking and replace all the brake fluid as it is more than likely contaminated with moisture which cause the parts to rust.
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