7qt.just remove pan and replace filter,13.5 if overhaul trans.
4.5 US Quarts after an oil change with filter, slightly more after engine replacement. Failing to completely drain the new bottles of oil or using an old or crappy electric oil meter may require using as much as one-half quart more.
If you change just the filter and do not drain the pan, about one-half quart (1 pint) should be about right, but why would you do that?
Trouble code P0102 means:Mass or volume circuit low input
There Is Only one Bolt Holding The Tensioner Arm To the Motor This Arm Pivots Up And Down On It Should Be A Hole That A 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet Fits Into Place The Ratchet IN The Hole And Pull Up This Releaves The Tension ON The Belt And You Can Remove It With Ease.
When You Replace The Belt Do The Reverse As Stated Above. (Important)Remember What Way The Belt Is Routed On The Pullies(this the right answer for 97 )I removed the front right wheel, the plastic inspection cover and located nut holding the lower portion of the most forward part of the motor mount.
Once I removed the nut 18mm (I'm from Canada eh) I used a 5 /16 8 point ratcheting wrench to remove the stud. I then removed the roundstock portion of the motor mount by tapping it with a hammer. (the handyman's favourite tool) Removing this part of the motor mount makes it possible to remove and replace the serpentine belt.
This performance took me less than an hour.
I like the car, not the designers...
Does anyone have any pictures of the motor mount which you need to remove to take the belt off?
I cant answer for a '97 specifically, there was a design changer somewhere between 95 and 99. for the 95, and probably 97, you just rotate the tensioner and the belt slips off, no need to remove the engine mnt (with this set-up you need to lift the engine to replace the water pump)
For a '99, you need to rotate the tensioner AND remove the round-stock from the lower engine mnt to remove the belt (but now you no longer have to lift the engine to replace the water pump
there is no need to remove any motor mounts to change the serpentine belt on a 3.8L 1994 Buick lesabre
just put socket/wrench/specialty belt tool on nut of tensioner and rotate it, then slip belt off. make sure it doesnt slip and catch ur fingers under belt...could make for a nice little owie,lol. someone.
sincerely , mr. lost in a snowbank lol
Decide which buttion you want to program. Hold you hand held opener about 2 to 5 inches away from the car opener. Press the handle held opener button and the desired button on the car opener, and hold them until you see the car opener flash slowly and then rapidly. When it is flashing repidly you can release the buttons and your car opener will now open and close your garage.
Generally, you only replace the inside mechanism of the water pump, leaving the body of the water pump in place during this rather simple procedure.
I just replaced the water pump on our 1996 Park Ave. which has the same engine and is likely to have the same set up. It is simple, as stated above, EXCEPT, the far left hand bolt head is 1/2" under the rim of the power steering pump pulley. The power steering mount bolts are reached thru holes in the power steering pump pulley. Remove the top one, loosen the bottom one and piviot the power steering pump towards the firewall to give clearance to remove that water pump bolt. Caution - if both power steering bolts are removed, they go in holes that are very difficult to see.
I just replaced the water pump on our 1997 LeSabre V6. I used the same technique explained above by moving the power steering pump pulley out of the way to get to the far left hand water pump bolt that goes into the block. To get the power steering pump loose, I removed the top retaining bolt through the power steering pulley holes using a deep well socket, and loosened the bottom power steering pump bolt. I had to back the bottom bolt out quite a bit (but not remove it), and push the pump down and towards the firewall to get sufficient clearance to remove the water pump bolt over the lip of the power steering pump pulley. It was a very close operation, but it worked well. Installation was the reverse removal.
Thanks for the great advice! My husband and neighbor have been working on this water pump for several hours and all I did was search the internet and boom, there's the answer. Am I the greatest or what...well you people are for leaving the awesome blogs.
The transmission has shifted to a higher gear causing a drop in rpm. or if its worse case scinereo ie... the rpm goes dead (to 0) and comes back after a bit the cable to your tranny has been stretched
It may just be a normal condition. In auto transmissions with a lock-up torque converter, you will see a slight to moderate drop in RPM when the converter lock-up clutch is engaged. The lower RPMs mean that there is no longer any slip between the engine and wheels. Since you are no longer losing energy in the torque converter (heat created by the viscous resistance of the fluid), you should save a little gas.
Check to see when the drop in RPMs occurs. Is it usually at the same speed? Is it usually in the highest gear/s? The torque converters of some transmissions will do this at lower speeds than others. My Lumina is designed to do this around 38 miles an hour.
When you start to climb a hill, check to see if the RPMs suddenly increase without the transmission actually downshifting. This is when the torque converter clutch disengages and lets the torque converter return to its viscous conversion of energy. This will almost always happen when gradually increasing the load on the transmission before it gets to a point that the transmission has to downshift. A quick increase of the load may cause the clutch to disengage and the transmission to downshift too fast for you to notice it. It will feel as though it is one action.I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix that had the same problem. At any point in time the tach would drop to zero. Then the Traction control light would come on. It would stay that way until I eventually restarted the car. It turned out to be the cam shaft position sensor which caused the problem.
try a locksmith.
There should be a small steel cable somewhere in the trunk or behind the seats (can't remember now) that allows you to release the trunk from inside the car. You have to be able to get into the car...the idea is that you can pop the trunk open if your battery dies.
The emergency deck lid release mechanism on the C5 generation is a small cable terminating in a metal ferrule that is tucked between the layers of carpet in the rear of the luggage compartment.
The rear deck may also be released remotely with a button on the left side of the steering column.
Loosen the hub nut in the center of the wheel. Then raise the car and take off the wheel. Finish taking off the hub nut. Take of the brake caliper and rotor. Remove the stabilizer bar from the lower arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. You may have to use a puller to push the cv axle out of the hub. Then jently pry the other end out of the transmission. That is how you take the halfshaft(aka cv axle)off. I don't know if your going to rebuild the joints or change the whole axle, but I just changed the whole axle on my 87 LeSabre. It just seemed alot easier.
there is a 3 wire sensor bolted to the front cover of the engine. use a 10mm socket and remove the bolt. after unpluging the sensor carfully rotate the sensor up and down in order to loosen it from the engine. then pull out
CHECK THE TRANSMISSION FILTER FIRST AND THEN CHECK THE MODULATORAnswerSounds like the transmission needs servicing. Loose bands cause this condition. AnswerCould be a loose or twisted motor mount too. Have you had the water pump serviced lately? Unskilled repair people loosen the mounts and then they twist when he transmission shifts or when you first accelerate..
Good luck!AnswerFirst thing you should do is check level and condition of your tranny fluid. AnswerCheck the trans fluid, mine leaked out of the front return line because it was rusted through, I did not catch it till it was too late. 900$ vs 6.00$ hmmm AnswerIF YOU HAVE CHECK ALL THE TIPS ABOVE THAT ARE GOOD TIPS CHECK FOR VACUM LEAKS CAN MAME TRANSMISSION SHIFT ROUGH OR CHECK THE DETENT CABLE MITE BE OUT OF AJUSTMENT WOULD BE MY QUEST ,THE WAY YOU CHECK IT IS BY YOUR THROTTLE CABLE UNDER THE HOOD WHERE HOOKS UP TO CARB OR THROTTLE BODY THE DETENT IS HOOK UP IN THE SAME WAY BUT THE CABLE GOES TO THE TRANS ,SO WHEN PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL IT PULLS THE DETENT CABLE AND BEING AJUSTABLE MAKES IT SHIFT SMOOTH OR HARD
SPARK PLUGS NEED CHANGED. I had the same problem. it will run like new. super smooth.
sorry, but i had to create acct to anwer this ?. i have a 97 PA which had the same problem from 40K miles to 90K miles. the problem is the PCS solenoid (pressure control solenoid). had it changed and solved the problem immediately. quite common for 1997 to 2000 PA's. anyways, having same problem again with 200K miles on car now. will have to replace solenoid again. about $600 job, so be prepared.
To remove the panel across the dash that covers the radio, the air deflectors must also be turned to one side and gently pushed down on with a flat tip at the top and pulled out. Get the flat tip right next to the pin to depress the tab. There are four additional screws behind them and failing to remove them will break the deflector holders loose from the panel and create a nice rattle! Voice of experience speaking.
First pry off the wood trim panels that run the length of the dash (there are two pieces, one each side of the steering column). After you have exposed the dash below the wood paneling, you'll see 4 or 5 hex-head screws holding the entire dash paneling that surrounds the cluster, steering column, air bag, and each vent (it's one whole piece). Before attempting to remove, lower your steering wheel as fair as possible in order to slide the panel over the cuff around the steering column, as well as the gear shift (put it all the way down into 1st), which requires you have your key handy to put the ignition into ACC. This will give you more room to get the panel off. Once this is done, there are 3 more hex-head screws holding the radio in place. Remove. Remember to get the proper mounting bracket for your new stereo. *** Also, be mindful of the depth of the new radio. You'll see a metal brace of some sort that cannot be moved at the rear of the radio compartment. In order to add any new lines, it's best to drill out some of the fiberglass on the bottom of the compartment to run a remote line and/or RCA cables.
A cheap battery will work good with the vehicle being stock. No more is really needed for this model. If you want a good battery for it however, an Optima red top will be the best you can get for the need. The Optima yellow top is a good option for an upgraded stereo or subs installed.
The battery is under the rear seat cushion.
We have a 1986 and the location is on the drivers side just forward and above the rear axle. Jack up the drivers rear utilizing all safety measures. I used a pair of vice grips and open end wrench. A cardboard laid down for comfort and to absorb the gasoline would be helpful. Also, I believe I crimped a neoprene hose with an additional pair of grips so the gas wouldn't leak. Also you might consider letting the tank go empty prior to replacement. In closing I wish I had replaced ours prior to having numerous mechanics charge us to trouble shoot the stalling problem we had been having -- thus costing well over the four figure amount ! Good luck I believe your 1984 Lesabre has a 4 barrel carb. In that case, the filter is not in the rear of the car, that is only for fuel injected models, but rather in the front of the carb where the fuel line goes in. You will need a 1 inch wrench and a 5/8 inch wrench to loosen the lines where they go together. Then remove the fitting out of the carb and take care to note the length of the filter, there are 2 kinds used in that car, and make sure not to lose the spring that comes out of there. Also be sure not to force the fittings back together, they are fine threads on those so it will thread by hand. Then snug every thing back up using your wrenches, start it up and check for leaks. I hope that this helps.
I also own a Buick LeSabre although mine is a 1994. The following is the exact process. Loosen and remove the long bolt which goes directly through the motor mount. Next, loosen and remove all six bolts and one nut which hold the motor mount to the engine and frame. Next, you will need to find or make a block of wood that will be used to raise the engine. I used four pieces of 2" x 3" (5" long) and tie or strap them together. This block was then inserted directly in front of the oil pan (under the car on the right side). Next, position a hydraulic jack directly under this block of wood. Slowly raise the right side of the engine just high enough to remove both parts of the motor mount (about 8-10 inches). You now can replace your defective water pump. After you have replaced the water pump, just reverse the process and you are finished. It took me about three hours after I figured out what I needed to do. Good Luck! Deano/Illinois
Thanks for the help, it was driving me nuts. I still have a problem though. I removerd the top nut for the part of the mount that attaches to the motor, but it seems like I will need to remove the bolt that it was on in order to get the motor mount to move? Is that the case?
I just did mine on a 92. I could not get the mount out because there is not enough room to slide it off the stud from the block. After cursing all American cars and their engineers, I noticed I could swing it to the right to get the pump bolts out. So although you have to remove almost all the mount bolts, if you can't slide it out, try sliding it to the right. I also jacked up the front of the motor until the power steering punp tank touched the cross member bar. Really not that bad - about 3 hours.
Oh Yeh ! autozone.com has a great site having instructions and pics on how to do it.
This is a pay back post. I couldn't have done this without what I found on the net !!!!!
Wow, lots of pumps are being replaced. I did mine last week. The way i did it on my 95 lesabre was to jack up the motor so that the bolt that is in the rubber of the motor mount comes off easily. Then take off the half of the mount that is connected to the car(4 bolts, 2 top and 2 side) Then proceed to take off the one on the motor( 2 bolts and on nut) Then you have to jack up the motor a little bit more and slide that half of the mount out then slant it up to get it out.
It was a bit of a hassle but it is much easier to put back together. I would have to say that the Toyota camery that i helped replaced the pump on was much more a pain in the butt. Less space to move around, along with having to remove the motor mount, was not worth it.
I too had to change the water pump on my 96 LeSabre. Unfortunately, It took over 5 hours the first time because I had to find out on my own what to do with the motor mount. I also made the mistake of listening to the parts clerk and because he didn't know what he was talking about, I had my whole project put back together only to realize that it was lacking Gasket sealer and I had to restart. After knowing what I was doing, it only took me around 2 hours to complete.
I just finished my 96 LeSabre...I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR MOUNT. I just took the battery & cooling fluid reservoir out (very easy) and it left me plenty of working room. The only reason I would have had to take the mount off is if I was replacing the serpentine belt(which was in great shape). I just took it off the pulleys & worked around it. I did have to take the power steering pulley off to get the last water pump bolt out. (there are 2 bolts that you access through the power steering pulley holes -one above & one below)
It took me all day but I didn't even know what a water pump looked like until I took the new one out of the box. YOU CAN DO IT! All you need is rachets , screwdrivers , patience . It'll much easier next time. Thanks to all for the advice above . Autozone.com has great diagrams but don't worry about taking that belt off unless you need a new one.
I didn't have to remove the mount on my 93 leSabre...but I did have to remove the bolts and move it to one side. Here are my steps: (1) Losen bolts on water pump flywheel while belt still on car. (2) Remove belt (3) Take a 2x4 long enough to cover oil pan and use a jack and jack-off car till engine raises quite high. It helps if you position the jack wheels such that the jack can move side-to-side across the front of vehicle. Just watch when you jack-up that power steer pump doesn't hit cross bar on the top side. (My first mistake was not jacking high enough.) (4) Remove long bolt from center of motor mount. (5) Remove two bolts and one nut from engine side of motor mount. (6) On the frame side of motor mount there are 4 bolts to remove...two on top and two under the mount that are on its bracket that you can't see. Remove them. (7) Remove the 4 previous loosened bolts on the pump flywheel. (8) Take a 3 foot section of 2x4 and whack the corners so its a wedge. Jam it down against the engine flywheel and the frame and move the engine over towards driver's side. If you do it right the mount bracket will separate and shift to the front of the car just enough to expose the two bolts on the pump that you normally can't get to. And it will allow you to remove the pump flywheel. (9) Remove the pumps little bolts and big bolts. I think there are 4 and 4. (10) Remove pump, clean gasket, install new pump and reverse order. (11) Curse GM for making a simple job a real pain in the butt.
By the way....before you start pick up a can of PB BLAST in Wally World's automotive section. Its a yellow can with a bunch of tacky-stuff printed on it. It works great on freeing bolts...just spray on, go have a beer and remove later.
Le sabre in French means "the saber" or "the cavalry sword" in English.
Follow the uper rad hose from the rad to the engine and it is in that metal housing at the end of the hose. Remove the 2 bolts holding it on and remove it. When replacing it make sure the spring goes toward the engine. **add** on the 3.0 litre engine there are two upper hoses to remaove, if you pull the wrong hose you will not find the thermostat, check other upper hose that lead to the engine
The filter is located under the passenger side directly under the door area. The car will have to be jacked up to access it. Be sure to follow the pressure relief procedure before disconnecting the filter. See the link to the right on "Fuel Injection In-Tank Fuel Pump Replacement Instructions."
Cylinder Number 1 Misfire Detected
It's probably the motor but needs to be checked out. I am certainly not an expert on these things but... I own a 2000 Lasabre that has been a good car but....the windows go bad. Both back windows stopped working and fell down. Luckily I had a neighbor who was good at fixing such things so we removed the door panel off and found that the cable the moved the window up and down was tracking poorly fraying it to the point it was off the track and broken. Rather than buy parts, and since it was the rear windows which came down only part way we reround the cable, put it back in, put the window in the up position and disconnected the motor. All has been fine since. Yesterday the passenger side front window dropped and won't come up...so today I am trying to get the door panel off and see if the cable on this window has also gone bad. Getting the panel off has been a challange. My take on the Lasabre windows....they are crap....the car has been great but it's automatic windows leave something to be desired. This problem is caused by a broken "up" cable on the window regulator. This regulator operates the window using a cable to pull the window up and a different cable to pull the window down. It is usually the "up" cable that breaks. This problem is REALLY bad in 2000 lesabre cars. The designer of the window regulator has the "up" cable attached to nothing more than a plastic piece. This piece will break sometimes with little or no good reason. (ie bump in the road, raising the window, etc.) Buick will not claim any responsibility for these regulators unless REALLY pressed but the fact is that they had/have a bunch of these go bad. R.Hand
Hey Paul==It isn't very hard but time consuming. Get a shop manual on your car and it will tell you how and have pictures. GoodluckJoe
I think so, but don't you have to be a professional to do it legally?
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