on a crankshaft you have a crank journal (more commonly called a main journal) and a rod journal. the main journals of the crankshaft are where and how the crankshaft is held in the block. the rod journals are where your connecting rods are attached to.
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor
Your cam position sensor or the wiring leading to it has gone bad. It will cause occasional rough running and hard starting until it is replaced. If you live in a county that does emissions testing, your car WILL FAIL unless it is fixed.AnswerIf you have a 3.0 12 valve engine is is located at the rear of the engine block, under the throttle body area.
If you have a 3.0 DOHC 24 valve, it is located on the timing cover, held in with a 8mm bolt.AnswerThe cam sensor is on the drivers side, on the intake manifold a few inches down from the intake air hose ,back of engine, it is in there sort of tight, I am still trying to figure the best way to take it out. AnswerWhat engine? On a Ford 3.8L Engine, the cam position sensor is on the right side of the engine, in the front, near the A/C compressor, it is above the crankshaft position sensor, and since they have the same connector, don't mix them up, the cam is above the crank, on the 4.6L engine, the cam sensor is on the left side, under the power steering fluid reservoir. AnswerIf it's the 3.0 OHV engine it's located on the driver side of the engine between the throttle-body and spark distributor back under a wire bundle. It's located where the mechanical distributor used to be. AnswerWhat engine? On a Ford 3.8L Engine, the cam position sensor is on the right side of the engine, in the front, near the A/C compressor, it is above the crankshaft position sensor, and since they have the same connector, don't mix them up, the cam is above the crank, on the 4.6L engine, the cam sensor is on the left side, under the power steering fluid reservoir.
The Cam position sensor on my 97 Ford Aerostar 3.0 replaced the distributor Is mounted on top at back of motor sits atop of the lower half of distributor/oil shaft mount .Check there. Found out it's called a camshaft synchronizer that it's mounted on.AnswerIf you have a 3.0, 12 valve engine, it is buried under an engine wiring harness, at the rear of the engine, close to the throttle body, near the top of the transmission bellhousing, on top of the CAM synchronizer, held on with two 7/32 screws. If you have a 3.0 DOHC 24 valve, it is located in the timing cover, held on with one 8mm bolt. Answerwhich 3.0 do you have? The 3.0 12 valve, (VIN code U-8th digit), or the 3.0 DOHC 24 valve(VIN code S)? AnswerMy Fault I should clarify that answer, (I just found the thing myself) it's on the driver's side under the wire harness that runs under the intake (beside the spark plug wire holder). The thing bends a piece of metal that's suppose to revolve around the magnet of the sensor. AnswerIf you are talking about a 3.0 (12 valve), it is on the camshaft position synchronizer at the rear of the engine under the engine control wiring harness, below the thermostat housing area. If you are talking about a 3.0 (24 valve), it bolts to the front of the timing cover with an 8mm bolt. Replacing the Sensor1. Disconnect the negative battery cable...just like on every other installation 2. Detach the CMP sensor connector next. 3. Remove the CMP sensor retaining bolt and remove the CMP sensor
Now to install: 1. Clean the CMP sensor surface and ensure that the O-Ring is in place. 2. Position the CMP sensor into the engine and tighten the retaining bolt to 71-106 inch lbs. 3. Attach the CMP sensor connector 4.Connect the negative battery cable.Answerthe sensor is a little black connector and box right next to the crank shaft if you are standing on the passenger side of the car look straight down to the bottom pulley you will see the plug with a wire on the left side AnswerIt is located on the right hand side of the engine (you standing at the front of the car) under the wiring harness going up into the engine to the left of the throttle cable. Real pain to get at and replace but can be done with no special tools. 7/32 in. wrench is the only way to get at it.
I am in the process of changing mine now. You have to remove part of the throttle assembly and unplug some things to be able to move the wiring harness enough to get to the bolts. It's not really to bad though I fear I might need to replace the entire assembly requiring me to remove the intake and entire throttle assembly. My 02 Taurus SE runs fine but squeaks from the assembly. Hopefully your Taurus only needs the sensor. SAnswerThe cam sensor is on the drivers side, on the intake manifold a few inches down from the intake air hose ,back of engine, it is in there sort of tight, I am still trying to figure the best way to take it out.
Cranks but won't start:
In a situation like that I always tell people to go back to the basics: Spark, fuel and Compression. If you have all three, it should start. The spark has to be at the correct timing, but if the vehicle was running and suddenly stopped, there isn't much reason to believe that the timing changed. The fuel has to be delivered in an approximately correct quantity for the engine to run right but it should at least pop and attempt to start. So... Start with fuel. Using starting fluid, spray in the throat of the throttle body while a friend attempts to start the engine. If the engine runs while you're spraying, you probably have a fuel problem. Check the fuel line for pressure. If you don't have any it's probably the fuel pump. It's in the tank and you'll have to drop the tank in a suburban to get to the fuel pump. It isn't as bad as it sounds. Disconnect the battery first. Siphon out as much as you can get easily, disconnect the fuel fill pipe from the tank, using a floor jack, support the tank while you remove the straps. There are usually only two. Once the straps are disconnected, lower the tank and remove the fuel line and the wires to operate the fuel pump and fuel gague. You'll have to clean the top of the tank so that you don't get debris inside, then remove the screws and work the pump assembly out of the tank. On the other hand... if you have fuel pressure and the engine doesn't start when you use the starter fluid, you probably have a problem with ignition. Pull one spark plug wire, then using a spare plug from some other source, attach the wire to the spare plug and lay the plug on a metal part of the engine, then crank the engine and watch the plug. If you have spark it might be something else. If there is no spark, find out why. It could be the pickup coil, electronic ignition module, high voltage coil or even a bad rotor in the distributor. It's all a process of elimination. Remember the words of Sherlock Holms, "When all other possibilities have been eliminated..."
Could be flooded (especially if carbureted), you could have a wire disconnected if you've been messing around under the hood, or there could be humidity in the distributor.
A common fault is the Crank Position Sensor (CPS).
This is an induction coil mounted just above the crank pulley.
If the tachometer does not register at all during cranking, the CPS has probably failed.
The camshaft spins at half the engine speed. The crankshaft spins 2 times for every one revolution of the camshaft
remove the plug unscrew the bolts and put back the way you remove it .
Depending on what car you have, the crank angle sensor is normally located behind your harmonic balancer, or somewhere close to the crank. To remove the harmonic balancer you'll first need to remove the drive belt then remove the bolts holding on the harmonic balancer. It won't usually come off easily so it'll need some persuasion with a few light taps from a hammer, or in severe cases a bearing puller. Once the balancer is removed access to the crank angle sensor is very easy. All you need to do is interchange the busted sensor for a new one.
there are 2 crank position sensors. first 1 is the 24x located behind harmonic balancer you will need to remove belt 15mm bolt from balancer and balancer pulley. 2 8mm bolts and 1 10mm bolt are behind the balancer 1 13mm bolt is located on from block which you must disconnect. the other is located on the back of block which is the 7x 1 and this is just a 10mm bolt. It will take some playing around to pull this 1 out but it will come out and goes in very easy. before chaning any1 of these disconnect battery. When putting harmonic back on make sure its lined up w/ key hold and that's it all the way on.
There are three on most of the 535i's.
One up front which is only used on diagnostic.
The two used by the ECU are nearest the clutch ( if standard) or on the drivers side lower bellhousing.
Two connectors run up to the metal brace, then into the firewall.
Two are identical. Each is REQUIRED for running.
Please specify what engine
Start of with the maintenance items: Tune up parts-cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, pcv, wires. The plug condition may help clue what is going on. Clean Throttle plates and intake valves
it is on the driver side of the bellhousing-near the top-it is hard to get to if you are under the trans you can look up and see it .you may have to drop the rear of the trans a little bit by unbolting the crossmember..good luck
Can't find it
Down deep in the hole right next to the battery (the sensor with the black and white wires attached.
On modern engines with computer management there are various sensors to tell the computer exactly what the engine requires in the line of fuel, when to spark the coil/s and so on. The engine needs so fire the sparks at the correct time and also inject the fuel at the right time. So a sensor is fitted to pick up exactly at what degree of rotation the crank is. It is sometimes not even mounted near the crank but still called a crank angle sensor, it can even be in the distributor (Nissan and others) This is in the form of a disc with many tiny slots or holes in it and has a light emitting diode and a light sensing diode either side of the disc,as it turns the light is cut off and the computer detects this and can work out the position of the crankshaft. It can alo be in the form toothed disc much like a gear on the crank shaft or even use the flywheel to sense the position using a hall effect sensor to detect the positon of the flywheel or crankshaft pulley to determine exactly where the crank is positioned.
When crankshaft is turning, the sensor will provide a signal to the PCM. The PCM will then allow the engine to start by providing spark and fuel.
It reads the rotational position of the crankshaft
The idle air control valve; may not be operating properly.It is operated from the computer, by electric impulses; it works to control the amount of air needed for idle engine speed; its a cone shaped,tip on a shaft that ,moves in and out of a hole to control idle speed, by adjusting the amount of air to the engine: when shifting ,it take a little more power than, just plain idle; so you may have to clean the passage or the unit or change the idle control valve. it on the throttle body. 2 small screws hold it in place.(allen).
It is located on the backside of the engine block just above the starter motor. If you raise the car up on stands and scoot way underneath you will be able to feel it above the starter. don't confuse it with the transmission speed sensor which is easily viewed below and to the side of the starter
it on the front of engine up over main pulley
No it wouldn't, but jump starting the car or over heating the engine would crap out the sensor.
I'm in the process of changing my crank position sensor now, but my original broke in my engine block ... so I need to drill a hole so I can pull it out without pushing it in my block. :(
Yes it could
the cam shaft positioning sensor is where the distributor used to be. the cam turns the distributor.you probably dont have a distributor and now there is a cam position sensor in its place. assming you have distributerless ignition,and coil packs. if it has a distributor, the sensor is located under the rotor and is held by 2 screws, but in order to remove it, you have line up the the notch in the mounting plate for the rotor with the sensor or you wont be able to get it out, its a very tight fit.
It is behind the starter in the block.
It is the cast iron shaft in an internal cumbustion engine which is driven by the pistons in a circular fashion. The shaft in turn transmits power to the transmission or gearbox. It also drives the pulleys which power your alternator, water pump, A/C, power steering & brakes or other accessories.
The cranksfat turns up and down movement into rotational movement.
crank shaft is nothing but the part of vehicle which is connected with piton with suitable rod to transfer power produced by engine to fly wheel.
As far as i Know, is inside the engine block, behind the flywheel ;) in that area
if you have a code w/ cam to crank reference then yes. if only a crank sensor issue the no
Inside the distributor.
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