Yes, they came stock.
That's incorrect. the LS1 didn't come out until late 97 almost 98. The Buick Roadmaster came stock with a 5.7 litre 350 cu. in LT1 motor the option was the 5.0 litre 305 cu. in motor. The LS1 replaced the LT1 as the LS1 motor got better mileage and more horsepower. And the corvette was the first to get this motor. That's not to say that someone didn't put one in a wagon and swapped out the motor.
Take the knobs off and the nuts under them. Then take off any bolts in the rear holding it and remove the wireing.
Buy the Chiltons or Haynes manual. It will walk you through the process.
I can't stress enough how important it is to have a repair manual for your vehicle if you are going to do any home repairs. All these cars today do have great computer systems that will diagnose in "trouble codes" But these are not a direct diagnosis of the problem, only the area of fault to start in. A good repair manual will list each of these "Trouble Codes" and direct you in how to pinpoint the exact problem. There are also computer readers you can buy that will also give you a starting point, but without a manual or great knowledge about your vehicle it can lead to costly replacement of parts you don't need.
Slow insert a flathead screw driver in the slot provided and push, hubcap will pop out
Take it to a repair shop -I think it was the only recall on the car... if you're the original owner, you should still be able to take it to the delar to have it rectified- it was a problem with a bushing. If not, at least phoning the service department may give you some info.
A 1985 has a transduecer to control the vacumn they always went bad. Good luck finding one. of all the cruise failures the turn signal lever was the cause 90% of the time it hasvery delicate wires that break from flexing the turn signal up and down g
The pump will be a Weldon style pump in the fuel tank. The tank will have to be dropped. The pump and pickup assembly comes out the top of the tank by removing the large circular clip on the top of the tank. This retaining clip is removed by rotating it in a counter clockwise direction. Once the pump assembly is out, it is pretty self explainatory to replace. then reinstallin the pump into the tank, make sure that the float assembly is free and not caught in anything.
Bottom of engine, inside the oil pan.
If this doesn't work, try putting the vehicle in neutral, engine off, and roll down the driveway. Apply the brakes, and start the vehicle while still in neutral, with the brake pedal pushed down. This cleared the light on my '95 GMC.
I don't directly know about a '92 Estate Wagon, but I have a '95 LeSabre, and you have to start by carefully prying up on the vents with a small screw driver to pop them out. Then take out the screws that you just uncovered. This should allow you to remove the black plastic trim piece that spans the whole dashboard. After that, you can get to the screws holding the radio in and just pull it out and unplug it. But like I said, I have a 95 LeSabre, not a 92 Estate, so it could be different, but I hope this helps a little!
There are two wires in harness leading from fuse box to terminal block under dash on drivers. The larger red on may show a burnt appearance around terminal block. This is because its arcs and over a period of time start making intermittent contact. Eventually will stop a/c blower from working at all. Can be repair by dissamble of fuse block but kinda of tricky.
After the oil has been changed, you'll need to reset your system. To do that: 1.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position with the engine stopped. 2.Fully push and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. 3.The CHANGE OIL light should flash two times and then go out. If the CHANGE OIL light comes on and stays on for 5 seconds, it did not reset. You'll need to reset the system again. The button is located on the left side of the dashboard, the door has to be open to see the panel
The thermostat is located on top of the water pump. I would not attempt replacing it until you have looked at a repair guide, such as Haynes. The water pump is located above the Optispark distributer, and if you do not follow the proper proceure, you will drench the distributer and have a lot of problems. Your problem sounds like it may be a clogged heater core, which is not uncommon with these vehicles. You can try to have the heater core flushed out and see if that would help. If you were having trouble with the thermostat, the vehicle would probably be overheating. Frequently, the contacts on the heater door acturator will corrode and lose contact causing the door to remain in the open condition. Code 32 on HVAC in the climate control. Clean with deoxit and reattach to test. Correction, the code it 10 for open contact to the actuator.
If the old oxygen sensor is no longer functioning properly and you replace it with a new one you will certainly save quite a bit of fuel.
The first step is to find a single Phillips screw hidden in the carpet on the lower rear side of the panel. It is approx 5 inches in and 4 inches up. Remove it. Next, peel each end of the grab handle inward to reveal a single large Phillips screw (1 per side). Remove the screws. Next remove the single screw behind the interior door handle and remove the door handle surround over the hadle itself. the rest of the fasteners are snap type. Start at the bottom using the special door fastner tool to release. You can just pull forcefully, but it usually breaks these fasteners. Once the door is only hanging from the top strip, remove all elecrical connections. Next roll down the window and pull upward on the panel to release it from the lower window strip. Installation is reverse of removal.
I don't know about a 94 roadmaster, but on my 95 lesabre, i had to take the HVAC vents out first. Pry up on the bottom of them (very gently!) and they should pop out. There were screws holding the dashboard in behind where the vents used to be. Assuming you are removing the dash to install a new stereo or climate control unit, they all "pop" out. No screws. Best to throw the car in neutral once you are done pulling out dash as to slide dash cover out.
The fuse panel is accessed by opening the front door, the panel in on the end of the dash. A cover pulls off. HVAC blower is fuse 17. It is a 20amp fuse. The fuse in my #17 spot is a 25 amp fuse. In anycase, I had a few problems with the blower etc on my 1992 Roadmaster. Here is what I found. This is all under the dash on the passenger side of the car. You need to remove 4 screws holding the lower dash panel under the glove compartment. Took out fan motor to test it - this was not easy, you have to move the ignition module aside - it works ok. This was a waste of time, I could have just checked it by connecting the purple wire from the motor connector (motor connector is 2 wires, 1 purple, 1 black) to the orange wire in the controler connector. Of course I didn't have a wiring Diagram at the time. Need to find out what the 4 wire / tandem connector on the resistor block does so that I can try a temporary bypass. Took out resistor block, it seems ok, voltages check out. Turns out the resistor block is not a resistor block.. It is a large aluminum heatsink with a black transistor module fastened to it. Take the tandem wire connectors off before removing the module. The heatsink is held on to the housing by 3, 1/4 in screws. You don't need to undo these. There are 3, 5/16 in screws that hold the housing to the blower assembly beside the 3 smaller screws. 4 wires on the tandem connector, 3 on one connector, 1 orange one on the other connector. 1) Orange - power + always on, even when the car isn't 2) Purple - to the fan motor + 3) Grey - control wire + to -, variations translate to variations in the purple wire from 6 to 14 volts 4) Black - ground - Though the voltages check out, they don't generate enough current to turn the motor. A manual twist of the blower motor shows that there is a small amount of current going through. Diagnosis: blower controler brick is toast. - so�.I took it apart and was impressed with the contents. Nicely put together with that snotty gel that IBM used to use in its early mainframe computer chip casings. Noted what appeared to be 2 large surface mount Transistors and one smaller one. I mangled the circuit board during the take-apart and that gel was giving me the heaves so I didn't try to map out what the circuit was doing. Possible hack? Resistors-only are out since the fan would always be on, even when parked with engine off. If you want to manual switch this though, substitute an old halogen headlight for the control block, it generates heat too for the defrost aid. - make sure it doesn't touch any of the plastic inside though. And replace it with a real brick as soon as you can. To replace the solid state devices, there looks to be 3 of them, you will need to design the circuit to handle 20 amps at 12 volts Or 240 watts. (although I was able to get the fan motor going pretty fast with a 1 amp trickle charger) If you can mount them on the aluminum heat sink in the old brick you should have plenty of cooling though since is sits in a direct path of the fan output. The part number for this module is DELCO 16061602 with an additional number STK6994J. Appears to be made in Japan. One other note, this module sits inside the vent system at the bottom and is prone to having water sit on it from the air-con. Since the orange wire is always on, the water can cause the connector from the brick to the orange wire to crystalize and break. (It is a brass or copper connector). If this happens, and the module is still OK, you should be able to dig down and find some viable copper to resolder a new connector on.
Did you check the blower relay? You seem to know very much about electronics. Sometimes k.i.s.s. is easier.
If you are talking about the Drive,Reverse Low indicator on the dash above steering it is a simple cable opperated unit which attaches to the part of the colum that moves when you shift gears.Held by a clip that came off or broke...Rick D
What I can tell you about this is that it will not boil over unless you go way into the red...personal experance..so you can't be at 212 F ...boiling point...before this. Rick D
**To actually answer the Q, doesnt just one look at the needle? The numbers are in F, and my 92 Roadmaster seems to rise no higher than 43... Theres probably a little bit of inaccuracy in the needle though...temp gaugeWhat I can tell you about this is that it will not boil over unless you go way into the red...personal experance..so you can't be at 212 F ...boiling point...before this. Rick D temp gaugeWhat I can tell you about this is that it will not boil over unless you go way into the red...personal experance..so you can't be at 212 F ...boiling point...before this. Rick D
passenger side on the bottom rear of the engine block
probably the ignition system "opti spark"
fuel pump. happened to my '94
On a 1992 it is on the upper left side of the firewall when faceing the motor. Two little square black boxes...1 for Air/con and other for fuel pump. Check part #s...should be the same so interchange to test....Rick
According to the Haynes manual, the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Are u using super unleaded gas? if so stop!! use only regular . the super has to high of a fuel voltality and causes stalling when cold.
Especially if you are in cold areas, it takes more pressure to circulate cold oil. When it warms up, the oil flows easier through the system reducing pressure.
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