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5.5 to 6 quarts

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If it's a V6, 87 should be sufficient. If it's the 5.7, 89 is recommended

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If setting the tires to the recommended pressure on the door jamb sticker and driving it doesn't shut the light off you will need to have the system checked for a bad sensor.

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Yes.

This is being done by some to replace the infamous 2.7L sludge bucket that were put in many Chrysler models in the early 2000's.

here's a link to a forum with some helpful information on the process...

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45070

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2.7L, either 5w20 or 5w30

3.5L uses 10w30

5.7L uses 5w20

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if the problem is fixed, then whoever fixed it should have reset it. if it isn't fixed, fix it.

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6 quarts

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pull the rubber boot back on the door where the hinges are and find the speaker wires then use a voltmeter that pushes a 12volt current and if the speaker dose not make a sound then its ur speaker that's out if it dose make a sound then trace the wire back to ur radio its either the radio or the wire

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It is the computer on the under hood fuse box.

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So your fiance calls you and says's my car won't shift of park, what do you do? Well if she has a Chrysler 300 then you immediately tell her to stop trying to force the shifter into gear! The problem is ever so common (but Chrysler disagrees) the culprit is a small plastic spring latch that is less than a quarter inch long, this small piece alone can render your great big automobile completely useless!

This is VERY VERY common in Chrysler 300, and Chrysler should do a defect & recall about this problem. BUT Chrysler doesn't sell this part alone, they sell the whole Shifter Box for over 200 dollars. But that hook is all you need.

PLEASE, don't take your car to the mechanic to hear them say its a Electrical problem and charge you 500+ for it, AVOID THE STEALERSHIP AT ALL COSTS! You can fix this yourself if your halfway mechanically inclined.

Procedure is as follows:

1 Break down that center console!, if you need to move the car immediately to get home or to your garage or shop then its not a problem if you have a few tools, start popping the trim off the shifter assy, pull up and out on the small storage compartment to the right of the shifter, this will uncover a small pink lever (which Chrysler says will get you at least on the road but may not work), you need to go deeper! Take out the rubber mat directly under the ash tray and cigarette lighter, this will expose two screws, Philips screwdriver will undo this, move through trim and keep shredding until you have the shifter assy naked with no markings, if your shift knob is giving you problems, try sliding the very bottom chrome plastic trim down then the knob up as you spread the white plastic at the base of the leather.

2 Ok your down to the shifter, now with the key in and the car running if your ready to go press and hold the pink lever on the right, their is also another pink part( this is the cheap piece of crap that has you doing what your doing) on the front of the shifter assy, hit this pink part as well and as always with your foot on the brake try to shift, you should be in good shape, now to limp back to your proper repair facility of choice (your house) Shift into drive and only reverse if you need to, when you park leave in neutral and hit the parking brake, do not shift into park!

3 So your ready to fix the problem , well two ways about it, first costs you about 60 bucks and three days, the second, zero bucks and 2 hrs, OK so you have decided to fix now for free great, Now unmount the box! four nuts hold the box in place, there is 3 electrical connections with disconnects and two cable connections do these first, The one on the left is white it is the brake interlock assy, the cable is like a standard bike brake connections lift back and up, the right assy if the actual shifter cable and is very important to get back on right, it connects with a singer bolt, use an edge to scribe a circle around its present location before removing, now you can get it back right at the same spot, now lift the assy out, and undo the connections, now is also a good time to replace the burned out transmission indicator lamp that has never worked (very tiny black light bulb you found when pulling trim off earlier

4 Ok put this piece of junk on your work bench and locate the three tension clamps that hold the outer cover on, there is a single electrical connector that will need to be unplug ed once disassembled. Now shake that crappy thing till the spring falls out, save that spring or pick up a new one if its lost! Now I'm sure you see the pink plastic hammer rotator at the front of the box, and yep that little nub is your broken spring arm, pull the part out and drill a hole right under the missing arm, secure the spring back to arm with aircraft aluminum wire or copper wire or fishing line, shoe lace, zip tie, tooth floss, usb cord, or the like and attach the other side of the spring to the black bottom shell and place back on post where you found it, your done and you just saved yourself a car payment,

5 Put it back in and go!

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I would like to add to this just a little. After drilling a small hole through the pink plastic culprit, insert a cottor pin through the hole and bend the straight part of the pin around the back of the pink plastic piece. You can then attach the small spring to the eyelet of the cottor pin which will make this a permanent fix and is much stonger than the factory part and will never break again!!!

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I wrote the addition of the cottor pin last Sunday morning before I actually tried doing this. I heard of it on another site and it made sense. After posting the suggestion above, I went and tried it. It has now been a week since I fixed my shifter and the cottor pin idea works like a charm!!! I could not remove the shifter from the console entirely even after removing the four bolts that secure it to the car and removing the 2 cables and the 3 (I think) electrical plugs. I had to unbolt the center console (4 bolts inside of the console storage area and 2 screws behind the ashtray trim bezel) and slide it towards the back seat in order to remove the shifter completely. Pry the top part of the shifter away from the bottom section and you will be able to remove the pink plastic culprit easily. Notice how the pink plastic piece sits in there before you remove it so you can install it the same way. Before drilling the small hole for the cottor pin, file the broken nub down until it is smooth with the rest of the piece. Now drill a small hole all the way through to the back side immediately below where you file that broken nub down. Insert your cottor pin all the way through so only the eyelet is sticking out. Bend the cottor pin around the backside of the pink plastic culprit. Attach the little spring to the cottor pin eyelet and install the pink plastic culprit into the shifter just the way you removed it. Attach the other end of the little spring to the little plastic hook about 2 inches away on the front of the shifter bottom section. Snap the top piece of the shifter back onto the bottom of the shifter and install the shifter back into it's original place.

Install the 2 cables, the 4 bolts and the 3 electrical connectors that you removed while removing the shifter. Slide the center console back into place and install the 2 screws behind the ashtray trim bezel. Pop the ashtray trim bezel into place and install the 4 bolts in the console storage area. If you did everything right, your repair should outlast your car!!! I would also suggest disconnecting your car battery so as not to accidentally deploy your airbags. Good luck!!!

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The diagrams are located in your owners manual.

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This WEBSITE has the answers as well as pictures and a step by step: http://theswampbbs.com/300m/plugchange/default.html

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A small round red circle is the antitheft/ chip key warning light.

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yes there is- its called walking back to the fuel door and opening it like any other car.

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tuff job most of the time. axle nut, brake rotor and caliper have to come off first. spray axle with wd40 and hope it is not seized in hub. then there are 3 bolts witch are ataching bearing to spindle. they are behind spindle.

Unless you have an airgun capable of 200-250 ft/lbs of torque, it will be much easier if you remove the wheel, remove the center cap from the rim, re install the wheel and lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the car is on the ground. Use a 34mm socket, 2 inch extension and a breaker bar with a good length of pipe on it. Soak the spindle nut with a good quality penetrating oil before hand. Let it soak overnight if possible and use a wire wheel brush on a drill to clean the spindle threads first. Have an assistant inside the car with a foot on the brake pedal and crack the spindle nut loose with the socket through the center of the rim. Once that is done you can remove the wheel and then proceed as noted above and remove the other components. The 3 bolts securing the hub to the spindle should be 18mm and will likely need a good soak as well. Assembly is the opposite. Do not over or under torque the spindle nut during reassembly as either will cause premature bearing failure. The torque spec for the spindle nut on a 2001-2004 300m is 105 ft/lbs. One side note is to make sure you dont get any oil on the rotor or brake pads if you plan to re use them. You may as well replace these while you are at it but that is up to you. Good Luck!

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Yes it does..the sensor is usually located on one of the drive shaft half shafts. It is located on the driver side. If you remove the wheel you migh be able to see it. I went under the car to replace. You might want to replace the speed sensor and odometer sensor while you are at it. Botha re in the same place but one is slightly higher. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to locate and replace, but once you know where they are it shouldn take more than an hour. Good luck with that.

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Remove Wheels re-install two lug nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen both Caliper hold down bolts Totally remove one bolt only swing caliper using remaing bolt as a pivot point support flexible brake line slide outer brake pad out use "C" clamp or other like tool to retract piston using inner brake pad for leverage remove inner brake pad

Install both brake pads\ pivot caliper back down and secure remove lugs nuts install wheel

REMEBER TO PUMP BRAKES TO RESET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING CAR.

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On some cars there is a reset button in the fuse panel, check with your cars manual to see if they tell you how or where to look.

There is no reset on a 300m. If the oil light is on, you are low on oil, have a bad sensor, or a engine malfunction.

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Try Google.com You can also buy the same manuals the dealerships use from the dealership itself. That is the best way to go, but they are pricey!

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At the yoke at the rear end (where drive shaft enters rear end)

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You need to have the engine computer read for trouble codes. The lightning bolt comes on when a problem is detected with the electronic throttle system.