1995/98 (may also apply to 1999-2003?)

You will need metric wrenches and sockets from 10mm up to 20mm.

• Park van with front tires turned to the left. Jack right front of van, remove right tire. Place blocks under frame on right side in line with right wheel.
• Open hood, drain fluid into container by opening petcock on bottom right side (as you are facing front of van) of radiator. This is on the inside and is held in the radiator by a piece of plastic inside of the radiator, so don't try to pull it all the way out. Open radiator cap to allow air in.
• Unhook battery.
• Remove alternator and lay it to the right between engine and radiator.
• Drop serpentine belt out of the way. The way it is installed is shown on the underside of the hood. If not, draw it out before removing.
• Remove small rubber belt wheel that is forward and below alternator.
• Remove L shaped steel support that alternator bolts to.
• Unbolt electronic ignition that sits atop steel tube coming out of water pump. Will have to unscrew A/C tube support piece attached to it.
• You may have to remove plug wires, if so, be sure and write down their installation order first.
• Remove front engine mount nut on passenger side close to bumper.
• Remove back engine mount nut on passenger side behind right front wheel.
• Remove engine mount nut on drivers side just in front on left wheel drive shaft.
• Un-clip radiator hose from bottom of radiator.
• Un-clip radiator hoses from steel tube on top of water pump.
• Remove the two bolts holding steel tube in place.
• Remove steel tube, being careful with it as they are not made anymore and cost over $100 if one can be found.

  DO NOT Lift with weight on the OIL PAN

  See section below for WARNINGS

• Place wood support under oil pan between frame members. Remove wood from under right frame. Lower jack until engine mounts are about 3 inches off the frame. Make sure you do not lower too much and allow plastic parts in engine to be crushed. You now have enough room to remove the water pump. Place wood back under right frame until flush, just to be safe. The bottom tube is still manufactured if you need to replace it but will cost about $50.
• If you intend to replace the serpentine belt, take it with you as it seems all the aftermarket places list a belt a bit too small. The one Ford sells is the correct size.

That's it. Take your time and it will take a weekend to do.

Just a safety note: NEVER ever jack up any vehicle by the oil pan no matter what you place between the jack and the oil pan... The concentrated weight of the vehicle on the relatively thin metal of the oil pan would allow the head of the jack to easily penetrate right through the oil pan. Aside from the expensive damage this would do to the oil pan, it would also allow the vehicle to fall on you WHEN (not if) the jack punctures the oil pan.

Always place the jack under the center of the front or rear axle beams on front wheel drive vehicles, or under the front axle beam or the rear differential on a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Also, always make sure that any vehicle that you are working under is securely supported by jackstands that are placed under the recommended jacking points for your vehicle. Never rely on a jack as the only means of supporting the vehicle's weight.

See the Autozone online repair guide for both generations (1995-98 and 1999-2003) of Windstars.

One of the most helpful bits of information from the repair guides are the diagrams showing the various bolt sizes and locations. So easy to mess up when putting the short vs long ones back in.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

I recently changed my water pump (but it was on a '95 Windstar...should be similar). After removing all bolts on the pump (remove flywheel first, then you can reach the other bolts), I had to unbolt the motor mounts (underneath van) and jack it up about 4-6 inches before the old pump would clear to be removed. Place a wooden block between jack and oil pan when jacking.

Get a manual from discountautorepairmanuals.com It is not an easy job.

A2: This is a difficult job. Only for skilled mechanics who don't mind bleeding a bit. Also the timing cover gasket should be replaced at the same time and that is for mechanics who don't mind bleeding a lot. Trust me I know. :) MGL

First thing you should know is that alot of the Windstar models require one to remove the engine mounting bolt and raise engine a couple inches so that the water pump can be removed from where it sits. Remove the belt. Unbolt the pump housing. I think there is like 6-9 bolts holding it in. Remove it. Clean the previously old gaskit material off. Install new pump. Not a simple job!!!

With the 3.0 Liter engine the following procedure works well.

Removal: 1. Drain Coolant. 2. Remove Coolant tank from Passenger fender well. 3. Loosen but do not remove the 4 14mm bolts on the Water Pump pulley prior to removing the serpentine belt. 4. Remove the serpentine belt using a long 15mm box end wrench on the tensioner to remove tension from the belt. 5. Remove the alternator 6. Remove the Tensioner pulley 7. Remove the Water Pump pulley (since you already loosened the bolts) 8. Remove all bolts 10mm, 8mm, and 13mm making a diagram with the locations of all bolts. Also remove all braces; there should be at least two. Keep in mind that not all 8mm bolts are visible from above. 9. Remove Water pump, if it sticks tap with a rubber mallet do not pry it loose. 10. Using a putty knife remove all traces of the old gasket until you see bare metal.

Installation: 1. Install new water pump with new gasket and torque all bolts to proper specs. 2. Reinstall Tensioner Pulley, Alternator, and Water Pump pulley. 3. Refer to diagram either on hood or over radiator as to belt installation. 4. Reinstall serpentine belt over all but alternator pulley. 5. Using long 15mm box end wrench, pull tensioner toward front of vehicle and slip loosened belt over alternator pulley. Release tension. 6. Reinstall Coolant Tank and refill with Coolant. 7. Start engine and, keeping a close eye on the temperature gage, idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks if there are none you are done.

With the 3.8 Liter engine:

Take it to a shop and give them your left arm and left leg as well as first-born child and they may fix it for you. Or they may just laugh.

Water Pump Replacement 99 Windstar 3.9 L This is a ridiculously difficult job for for the average home mechanic. I'm an experienced mechanic and I was surprised at the difficulty of it. The two motor mounts on the passenger side must be removed (just remove the nuts from the bottom) and the engine jacked up and pulled forward slightly being very careful not to break any plastic. It might would be easier if another engine mount was removed as well. The upper pipe is difficult to remove and their is a good chance you will damage that pipe. It looks like that pipe/hose would be difficult to change as well. The lower pipe is usually very rusty and very close to leaking, I recommend replacing it. Removal of the alternator and alternator bracket is very easy and gives much more room to work with. I recommend that this job be given to a garage unless you have a lot of time and patience and a good helper. (make sure that the leak is the water pump and not the rear head gasket. You can see the rear head gasket fairly well from underneath the passenger side finder well once the tire is removed. if the gasket leaks here, it may appear to be the water pump leaking. found out the hard way.)

I replaced my water pump on a 2000 3.8 engine as others did. But it wasn't even my problem. My problem was I had too pin holes in the two tubes on top of the water pump. I had to remove the intake which wasn't too hard & the wiper cowl stuff. the pipe is under the intake, the other tube was on top of the water pump, ya have to remove a bolt behind the power steering to get the top tube out. It does wiggle out after a minute of rocking it back & forth the new water pump will come with 2 new O rings one for there & one for the lower radiator hose pipe. I patched it up with jb weld & let it set for a day to cure before I tried it out. ALSO when I took off the intake I scrapped off the oil crud on it & the van runs so much better like new. More power & even idle !!! So if your van spark knocks alittle & has runs a little ruff clean your intake with a razor blade, put a rag down so the crude doesn't go into the engine more.

Buy a Repair Manual for your particular car. Chilton and Haynes are OK but Michell is probably the best. and ASE recommended.

Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove to power steering pump and set it aside. (you will need a power steering pulley puller and installer kit). remove any belt tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the sub frame by a large nut(approx 7/8" (front) 17.5mm (Back)). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the sub frame. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as dis-assembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system. If you have a cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the system to verify there are no leaks.

If it is anything like the 96 GL Taurus. Then there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.

You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary.

remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrench) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car.

For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.

The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.

Try your local Library for the correct car repair manual. There is to many steps involved for a written description. Most Librarys carry Chilton or other car repair manuals. If they don't have it at the branch you try, ask at the desk, they can probably get it from another branch.

Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove any tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

It takes a long time. I removed the Anti-freeze and washer fluid tank. I removed the belt, the water pump wheel, disconnected the top hoses and the bottom radiator hose. I removed all the bolts and nuts and the unit stil hit the frame. I had to take a crow bar and push the engine over to get the pump to come off the 4 bolts that stayed on the engine block. After about 3-4 hours I finally got it out.

It went back in in about an hour. Tough but challenging job in a good way

It takes a long time. I removed the Anti-freeze and washer fluid tank. I removed the belt, the water pump wheel, disconnected the top hoses and the bottom radiator hose. I removed all the bolts and nuts and the unit still hit the frame. I had to take a crow bar and push the engine over to get the pump to come off the 4 bolts that stayed on the engine block. After about 3-4 hours I finally got it out.

It went back in in about an hour. Tough but challenging job in a good way

Hey Jesse==It is best when you attempt a big job like this that you get a manual on your vehicle from a parts store for about $18 which will tell you how to do the pump and belt and also will be there for the next repair. GoodluckJoe

first take of wire cover on top to give yourself more room then take off serpetean belt by taking a 15mm wrench to the tentioner and turn it clockwise to loosen belt then take off hose leading out the front of car the take off hte bracket thatthat holds a/c compressorbolts are 10mm them take off the nuts to water pump. before youcan get to hte lower hoses you must take off the front iner fenderwell. whatch out the heaterhose is a bear to get the clamp off. i took the big lower hose off first and then from top tyrned the water pump so i could get the clamp off for the heater hose needlessto say i change the clamp for a regular screw clamp once your there you can easily manuver the water pump out reverse to install.

Find the pump and replace it. Go to your local library and borrow a motor manual to help out. Yu need a few small tools too.

Drain water first! The 96 GL Taurus, there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get easier access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.

You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary. Just be a tight squeeze to jimmy the water pump out, but it will come out.

remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrentch) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car. Bit of a tricky process but once you have the ratchet in place, let it fall as far as it can towards the firewall, I use a ring spanner on the handle of the ratchet for ease of pulling the ratchet back towards the front of the vehicle to release the tension on the belt.

If your going to replace the belt as well as the water pump which is a good idea and you know how to put the belt back on (Just look up at the diagram under the hood) I just cut the belt.

An alternative to a new Ford water pump which can be quite expensive are the GMB water pump which are 1/3 of the price but do exactly the same job. It comes with just the pump and the belt wheel and rubber gasket. Take off the wheel and pump off your old water pump using the right sized Allen key, clean off the old gasket and replace with new. You can use gasket glue but not necessary. Re tighten bolts evenly using Allen key. Put back in the car, replace belt, refill with water and voala!!!

Note: When removing or putting belt back on! After you have released the tension on the belt, remove belt from under water pump first when removing and last when you are putting belt back on.

! I am no A grade mechanic, but this is how I did my belt and water pump on my 96 GL Station Wagon and my car is still running smooth!

It depends on the year and the engine size...

3.0L -

• Remove the coolant reservoir
• Remove the serpentine belt
• Remove the water pump pulley
• Remove the bypass hose
• Remove the pump bolts and remove the pump.

If car is equipped with 3.8L engine, then the procedure is considerably more difficult.

Do the same first 2 steps - and then it gets messy:

• you have to remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine out of the mounts -
• remove the water pump pulley
• remove the pump bolts - the main 4 are studswith nuts

  NOTE: after the nuts are removed you have to remove the studs to allow room for the pump to go by the timing chain cover

  NOTE: if you cant remove the studs then the motor has to come out - so get those studs out! ;)

Highly recommend at least one of the following:

• Buy a repair manual - if you see you're going to be doing much more maintenance and repairs on your Sable, it's a very good investment of about $18.
• Autozone offers free access to Chilton's Repair Guide at their website. This is an outstanding resource with diagrams and photos to guide the way.

For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.

The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.

Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines.Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove any tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjackwith a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in andout.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjackwith a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in andout.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjackwith a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in andout.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjackwith a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in andout.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjackwith a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in andout.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

First off is it a 3.0l or 3.8l...i know for a fact the 3.8l's front motor mount must have the nut removed in order to raise the engine up...that's right raise to up buy placing a large thick piece of 2x6 board on the oil pan and CAREFULLY lifting the engine up just enough for the pump to clear the side of the fender...also the pump pulley needs to be placed unbolted on the new pump before installing...and be ready as the wonderful folks on the ford assembly line are not allowed to use any antiseize on the 10mm bolts they install making bolt breakage a sure thing...Happy motoring..

bolt it to the front of the engine not hard just get a chiltons bookat you local autoparts store...its not brain surgury just don't pry on anything or take shortcuts or lose any bolts

Answer # 2:

I have just replaced the water pump in my 1994 3.8 Taurus. Here are some of the problems that I ran into. I did not remove the Alternator, just placed it out of the way a bit(no problem here). The water pump pulley cannot be removed when the bolts are undone(must come out with the old water pump).Biggest problem I found were the studs were to long and I was unable to remove the water pump(to close to the body frame). I used a small grinder and was able to grind about 3/8 off of each stud. That allowed me to remove the pulley and water pump out with no further problems. A word of caution, make sure the gasket is clean on the bottom end of the engine and make sure you fill the engine with fluid to look for leaks. Fill fluid in from the top of your new water pump. LOOK FOR LEAKS first before starting to put everything back in order. Much easyier to tighten bolts/nuts when you have access to the water pump. I saved $400 by doing it myself but it took me 8 hours to complete the task.

first up i would not grind 3/8 of an inch off a blot if pump required a shorter bolt the car would come with a shorter bolt. next , it is usually easier to remove the radiator than to lift engine. doesnt take much time and you need to dump coolant to replace water pump anyway

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjackwith a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in andout.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

An excellent step by step replacement procedure is given in the "Dodge Durango & Dakota Pickups" Haynes Repair Manual. Complete with pictures. (That is for 1998-1999.) I have replaced several and would advise using a factory replacement part. The reason I have replaced several, relates directly to using "rebuilt" pumps. Also, spend the money on the correct dealer replacement hoses. They are expensive but they fit, first time. You can often find these manuals at the half-price book store (cheap), if not the Public Library (for free).

Here is another opinion:

This question is not too involved to answer here. It just takes some explaining as with any repair by the home mechanic.

1. Remove the serpentine belt by rotating the main tensioner clockwise. You may want to leave it on to apply pressure when loosening the nut for the fan, however this does not always work.

2. 4 bolts retain the fan shroud. Simply loosen but do not remove all of the bolts until the fan nut is loose.

3. There are supposed to be four bolts on the water pump pulley to apply counter pressure with a 13mm wrench when loosening the fan nut (this nut has reverse threads so it's not righty tighty, lefty loosey.) At this point you might want to remove the idler pulley right above the water pump to make the following steps easier.

4. The manual says you need a special tool to loosen the fan nut. I couldn't buy it at the auto parts store because the water pump pulley both on the old one and new one did not have the 4 bolts but unthreaded holes instead. Dodge would not tell me what they do in this situation or sell any special tools to customers. Rude. So I used a strap wrench and wrapped it around the pulley and held tight while I unloosened the fan nut. Worked great.

5. Once the fan nut is loose, remove the bolts for the shroud and lift the fan and shroud out together.

6. There are three hoses (on the V8) that need to be removed from the water pump. You will need needle nose and other pliers to do this.

7. Mark the bolt at 12 o'clock on the pump for reference and start loosening them a little at a time clockwise laying them down in order as they are different lengths.

8. Remove the water pump and get ready to start scraping gasket. The upper part is difficult to see but be persistant. Who wants to see a leak after all this work.

9. The water pump has a coolant return hose that will need to be transfered to the new pump and a new o-ring replaced that is included.

10. Apply RTV high temp. silicone to the new water pump and the side of the gasket that faces the engine. Spread it thin. I had to break the habit of thinking more silicone=less chance of leaks.

11. Install the new pump and gasket and torque the bolts in 1/4 turn increments. Let the silicone cure as instructed on the package.

12. Start working your way back up this list, reversing the procedure, refill the coolant leaving the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn on the heater. Add coolant mixture as necessary until full. Check for leaks and hope the new pump lasts a darn long time.

Here is more input:

• I'm the owner of a 1999 durango. My water pump went out at 51,000 miles. You need to remove the: fan and shruod first,the fan comes off by leaving belt on and turning large nut with wrench counter-clockwise, then remove water pump bolts and install new one, reverse to put back on.

• The strap didnt work for me, so I made my own wrench. I used the bolt pattern on the new pump to make it, by welding 2 small studs on a piece of flat steel. Then welded a long handle on it. Instant wrench. Worked great.

On step 3 above, the writer says the big nut on the fan is reverse threaded. Mine wasn't and it cost me hours of sweat and frustration. I had to remove the radiator to get the whole thing out in one piece. From the front of the truck, like the answer just above, it's counter clockwise

Another removal option:

I had no welder or strap wrench. I applied WD-40 to the fan nut, and I used a breaker bar and hammer, tapping the nut firmly on each side. I disconnected all hose connections and all bolts. I leaned the pump and fan assembly gently onto the radiator, enough to expose the water turbine on the back side of the pump. Facing the front of the Durango, I used vise grips at the two o'clock position on the turbine. This locked the pulley/fan shaft against the A/C mounting bracket. The fan nut came loose easily. I then removed the fan and shroud, and then I removed the pump.

There is a metal pipe that extends at a 45 degree angle on the right side of your pump. This must be removed. My pump went out at 108k miles and this pipe stem was corroded into the pump. I scraped the rim with a razor blade and then applied WD-40. Do not use pliers or a pipe wrench! this pipe has very thin walls and will twist and cave in very easily. Instead I secured the pump on a table, and put my channel lock pliers behind the mounting wing that is attached to the pipe and gently hit the back side of my pliers. After lots of tapping I started to wiggle the pipe and working it in a circular motion. This freed it from the pump, and I was able to remove it by pulling and "unscrewing" it. This is not a threaded port, it is held in by an o-ring and pressure.

One More Removal Tip:

I own a 1999 Durango and just changed the water pump. The strap also didn't work but I found out a simple way to loosen the fan nut if you are throwing out the old pump. Drill a 1/4 inch hole from straight above into the water pump pulley. It is thin metal and takes less than a minute. Then stick a screwdriver into the hole to stop the pump from turning. Now you can loosen the fan nut easily. Mine loosened counter clockwise (right hand thread).

Tips for installation:

I applied the RTV on the pump side first, then laid the gasket onto it and waited a few minutes. This allowed the RTV to become more tacky and less slippery. I inserted the 3 mounting bolts into their rightful places into the pump. I threaded them two full turns into the gasket because the threads wanted to catch the gasket and pull it off the pump. Inserting the top bolts will hold the gasket in alignment and allow you to hang the pump into place without having to hold it there and try to tighten the bolts one by one.

I removed the top hose clamp completely off the top hose and used vise grips to open the clamp completely. I l looped the clamp and vise grips onto the top hose fitting of the new pump, leaving it clamped open. As I installed the pump, I had to push the pump up into the hose. Then, I hanged the pump on the mounting bolts as described above, fit the clamp onto the hose and released.

Check your belt for signs of wear and replace if necessary. In 2008 this belt runs 25.99-32.99.

The marks on the chain and the sprockets are set in such a way that the chain is installed at 50 deg after tdc. This is done so that the pistons are not at tdc where they could hit the valves while trying to install the chain. The marks are the only thing after tdc. When the chain is installed properly, the valves and pistons will be in proper time and the valves will be closed when the piston is at tdc. All you have to do is ine up the plated links on the chain with the proper marks on the sprockets.

When the marks on the chain and the marks on the sprockets are lined up the piston is after tdc. This is how it is supposed to be.

Buy a service manual and follow the directions step by step.

The piston is not At top when marks are lined up.

On a 2.7L, when the timing marks are lined up the piston is not at top dead center. It is about 50 deg past top.

The two colored pieces of chain go on the right, and the the left gear and the crankshaft sprocket get one each. Reset your tensioner before reinstalling it or it will fail dismally. Rotete the engine using the crankshaft about three complete revolutions until the timing marks are back to were you set them. Before you close your engine, install the sparkplugs into the boots, but not into the block, then crank your engine and check for spark. If they spark you are good to go. If not remove the camshaft position sensor and try again. If they spark without the sensor in, the rotate you right camshafts by 180 degrees and try again. when working fine, installation is the reverse of the removal.

note, be sure your tensioner is fully reset or you will trhow away your engine like an ex-spouse. signed: mr Houston. mr Houston.

The half moon cut out on the crank sprocket aligns with the arrow on the oil pump housing. If you don't have service manual with a sufficent picture you need to go get one. This timing chain is very complicated.

Go to this link and you can download the complete Intrepid Service Manual: http://www.dodgeintrepidchat.net/02lheHope this helps!

The suction pressure refers to the pressure of the referigerant being "sucked" back into the compressor. The suction pressure is a critical variable in ensuring the accuracy of the refrigerant charge, along with the tepmerature of that line as well. The "superheat", or heat added to the vapor in that line can be monitored in this manner.

You have not mention which suction pressure... Actually Where ever the suction is presented that pressure is called suction pressure.... and suction pressure in practical cases normally always less that atmospheric pressure and in case of delivery pressure it is opposite

Saying that suction pressure is " the pressure of the referigerant being "sucked" back into the compressor " is not accurate.

Simply , the suction pressure of a pump is the absolute pressure of a fluid , measured at the inlet of the pump ( in your answer , the pump is the compressor , and the fluid is whatever refrigerant. )

The discharge pressure , is the absolute pressure of the liquid measured at the outlet of the pump.

Obviously, the discharge pressure is usually bigger than suction pressure.