If I remember right there is a technical service bulletin about water getting into the ecm. If I am right he may find the computer either full of water or if you live in a climate that has freezing weather, the case may even be cracked. In the past we have been able to perform the recommended repair according to the tsb sucessfully, in some cases had to replace the ecm. Unfortunatley this question was moved from the Old FAQ, and pertinent information is now missing. This particular answer related to a particular car that is no longer mentioned.AnswerYour o2 sensor may be bad. AnswerOr your EGR valve/sensor.
If its a EFI motor it is more then likely dirty fuel injectors, they just can't get enough fuel through them when its cold. Compare it to a older carby car that didn't have enough choke..
Usually the computer will not look at the O2 sensor when the motor is cold.
10W 30, 5W30 in >32 degree constant weather (winter up north). On a car that old, I'd go with something slightly heavier unless you've had your engine rebuilt recently - 10W40 would be smarter IMO
first how cold is cold?? winter -30 or just not started at 0 degrees?? plug it in and go from there. lighter oil mabey??
ACEAnsweralot of ford probes have intermitant starting problems, if you look on the internet for this you will see many people have tried many different things from cheap to expensive. I have found that when my 97 probe doesn't start all i have to do is wiggle any electrical connectors i see ( i have not pin pointed which one)the car will then start. have read people have had to replace electrical harness, but my ways alot easier, for now
Well I had this same problem with our 89 Probe GL. There are multiple temp sensors in the engine which I was afraid was the problem with ours but I found it was an oxygen sensor which had a broken retaining clip. When I fastened it on with a rubber band it quit running badly and not starting in cold weather. Just yesterday when checking out fuses for another issue (headlights) I found that there is a manual "switch" for a fuse under there. One is labeled "warm weather" and the other "cold weather". Since I never knew this was there and it is now warm out, I haven't had the chance it see how it will improve its operation yet. But I intend to find out when I have the chance. Maybe that will work as well for you.
The piping has soap scum build up along with other debris like lint and then bacteria starts growing cause the odor .To properly clean the lines one should water Jet NOT snake the lines to restore full flow and remove the deposits
AT the engine end of the upper rad hose.
on a millenia, the thermostat is inside the flange on the engine side of the LOWER hose. look under the coolant resevoir. see the lower hose? follow it to the engine. where it connects, that is the cover for the thermostat.
i HAVE A 1995 MILLENIA 2.5,I GOT 114,000MI.my wheel bearing are still smooth,butti just replaced the tranny due 2 all the snow we had in baltimore,now im runnin strong again with 1 trouble code 02sensor..
Check the coolant level in the radiator. If it is low the coolant will not pass thru the heater core properly.Answer
Also check for leaks around water pump. Could be an early sign pump is about to fail.
It sounds vaccum related, most heaters have vaccum operated doors to redirect air from vents to defroster to floor etc. vaccum may be lost at idle due to a leak or a reservoir problem.
the third answere is almost correct. the first two are poor guesses, at best. heat and cold are controlled by blende doors. in the millenia the blende doors are controlled by electric motors. however, the main control unit for all the doors is the a/c amplifier. i would first try another amp. you can get them cheap on ebay, and they are easy to change
Change your cabin air filter first. If it persists, there are chemicals available to clean the evaporator core area of the A/C system through auto parts stores.
Also, you can spray a mildew-killing deodorizer ( Lysol makes a "Soft Powder" scent that's not too unpleasant) into the fresh air intake while car & A/C are running. A/C should be on "fresh air" setting. Spray until scent is noticable inside car. My intakes are just ahead of windshield, on passenger side. Open hood & you'll see them. Drive as usual w/ A/C on, maybe windows down for a few miles. Repeat as needed.
Possible valve cover gaskets are leaking oil onto the plugs and the oil is getting into the cylinder. The oil can also short the plug wire and damage the plug wire causing the check engine light to light.
Hey DJ==No. Go to your local Auto Zone and they will read thm for free. GoodluckJoe
Question: Is the car running or stalled? If stalled try starting it. If the key won't turn to start it or move to another position, try to move your steering wheel out of the locked position. Somtimes when there is resistance, or pressure against the lock you will not be able to turn the key - on or off. Question: Are you stopped on an incline? If so, the gear may not allow you to move to park (or out of park sometimes) if there is positive resistance on the transmission. This would prevent you from putting in park.
you should be able to find the fuse at your local pepboys. just buy it pop your hood and remove the fuse cover to the right of your engine compartment and there you will find the fuse usually the white, leftmost fuse ****WRONG INFO HERE****simply pop it out with a flathead s. driver or a fuse removal tool (supplied with fuse sometimes).***
****It's actually harder than that. Remove the fuse cover and it will be on the left, only fuse that says 120. You will need to take off four nuts (not bolts) that are facing up vertically. Then remove the yellow cables that are underneath that. The fuse box will be able to lift up. Turn it over as much as possible to look at the bottom side. The last and hardest step is to remove the bolts that are horizontally holding onto the 120 fuse. These are a pain to get to, one more so than the other. Just use a wrench since a socket wont fit in the tiny space! Then replace the fuse and replace the pesky screws and fuse cover.******
Some people just can't be useful. Looking at the engine from the pulley side, Cylinder number one is on the left side (close to the windshield) front. Number two is on the right front, the rest continue to count out like that. The hook up on the distributor is more complicated but most distributor caps are marked as to which cylinder hooks up where. 1-2-3-4-5-6-..believe it or not..its true
OBDII codes are cleared with a scan Tool. I recently had 3 vehicles with the CEL/SES on. Although a parts store read the codes for me and I affected the repairs, I still needed a OBD2 Scan Tool to clear the codes. I purchased AutoEngnuity's ($250 with tax)OBD2 PC-based Scan Tool software online which comes with an OBD2 interface module (USB, or RS232) to connect to the vehicle. The device has already paid for itself, and it can do more than just read, and clear codes.
it is located in the trunk behind the back seat pull the trunk carpet back and its a silver plate unscrew it slide it back and its right there easy to change
Cylinder one is in the back left on the 2.3 which i assume that is what you are referring too. Most manuals are not even correct and i called 4 dealers before i got the correct information. I was changing the wrong coil pack which in turn caused more problems.
what model/year mazda, what engine? maybe this is covered by a recall if it is a new car? it could be lots of things- low fuel in tank causing gaps in between fuel delievery to engine. could be caused when you turn hard, & all the gas sloshes to one side of the tank, opposite of the fuel pump. could be your spark plugs need to be changed, as they are missing at higher rpm... basically anything but there is no way anyone in the world would know with a question as vague as you just asked.
The thermostat is located in the thermostat housing at the engine side end of the upper radiator hose. You have to drain the engine coolant from the radiator until it is below the level of where the thermostat is. Make sure you don't spill any coolant, or you clean it up if you do. Antifreeze tastes sweet. Dogs, cats and other animals are very attracted to it. It is fatal when they drink it. For us, too. 2.3L engine: You should remove the charge air duct, air filter housing and resonator. Then take off the two thermostat housing bolts, open the housing and pull the thermostat. 2.5L engine: remove the hose mounting bolt and separate the pipe from the outlet housing. You'll find an O-ring between the hose and the housing. You need to replace that one with a new one. Remember to buy one before you start. The engine harness bracket bolt now has to be taken off, then put the wire harness out of the way. Take off the housing bolt, remove the housing cover, the thermostat as well as the gasket (remember to buy a new one before you start). Before you put in the new thermostat, make sure the surfaces of both parts of the thermostat housing are very clean. On putting in the new thermostat, the side where the spring is must point towards the engine; jiggle pin must face in the direction of the radiator. Some models have a tab on the thermostat that fits into a notch at the housing. 2.5L engine: Use a new gasket. Its projection should point in the flow direction of the radiator. Put the housing cover back. Apply the lower bolt first, but don't tighten it yet. Fix the engine harness bracket, but leave the bolt loose. Now tighten both bolts to 14-19 ft.lbs. Put the new O-ring between the pipe and the housing. To avoid damage to the 0-ring, make it wet with some coolant. Tighten the hose mounting bolt to 14-19 ft.lbs. 2.3L engine: Close the housing-thermostat assembly and tighten both bolts to 14-18 ft.lbs. Put back the resonator, air filter housing and charge air duct. 2.5L & 2.3L engine: Fill cooling system. Apply answer to "How do you bleed the coolant for a 1998 Mazda Millenia." This will prevent bad and costly surprises of an incompletely filled cooling system. Make sure there are no leaks.
Hi'I also have a 1996 Millenia, just changed my out. At front of your engine 2.5 just over your oil filter, you have to unplugg the pressure switch wire befre you can get the socket on it.
This answer applies ONLY to replacing the headlamp bulb, not the entire headlamp assembly. The work is done with the hood of the car up. It requires good lighting under the hood. Locate the 3-wire bundle that leads to the bulb; those wires terminate in a plastic connector that is attached to the back of the bulb. As you view the connector from the top, you should see a compressible clip on each side of the connector. These clips are somewhat recessed into the connector so locating them may require some study. Once you have located the clips, depress them with your fingers and withdraw the connector from the bulb. Both the passenger's side and driver's side installations are very confined so removing the connector may take several tries. With the connector disconnected from the bulb, remove the black rubber boot (cover) that protects the bulb assembly. You should be able to see that the bulb is held in place by a wire clip and the wire clip is held in place by a Phillips head screw. Study the installation of the clip before removing it (perhaps even draw a diagram) because it is not obvious how it goes back in place. Loosen, but DO NOT REMOVE, the screw. Squeeze the wire clip with your fingers so that the side of the clip not secured by the screw is released from a recess in the bulb housing (opposite from the screw). Install the new bulb by reversing the procedure outlined above.
In addition to the above, before you remove the 3-wire connector, you will save yourself much aggravation if you remove other parts that are blocking the plastic connector. On the passenger side, there is a small plastic radiator overflow tank. It is easily removed by removing the 2 Phillips screws that hold it in place. On the driver's side, you will need to remove a plastic air intake tube. It is held in place by 2 Phillips screws, as well as a hose clamp.
Go to this link and it will illustrate how to trouble shoot and change the motor.
You would remove the radiator cap to ensure smooth flow.
Put a pan or bucket under the radiator to catch the coolant. Please make sure you don't spill any, or clean it up if you do. Antifreeze tastes sweet. Cats, dogs and other animals are very attracted to it. It is fatal when they drink it. For us too.
There should be some kind of a draincock at the bottom of the radiator. Open it to drain the coolant. Flat pliers or similar tool might help opening the draincock if it is stuck, but be very careful not to break it. They are made of plastic and can become crisp with age.
If the draincock doesn't seem to open (or you might break it), you could, as a last and rather messy resort, open the clamp around the lower radiator hose and hope that the entire content of the cooling system doesn't escape all at once. Have a wide bucket ready!
Be aware, you cannot the drain the radiator without draining the entire cooling system because it's all connected. When you refill the system, please follow the procedures as described in the answer to "How do you bleed the coolant for a 1998 Mazda Millenia?" This will avoid bad and costly surprises with an incompletely filled cooling system.
on the millenia, the drain is on the passenger side of the radiator. you have to look from underneath, you will see an access hole in the splash shield. a large Phillips screwdriver is used to loosen/remove the drain plug.
Mazda is ford,,been changing alot of dpfe sensors,,whats the code your getting,,p0402 excessive flow?????Answerwell like the other guy said Mazda is ford, but is not the same, what u need to do is take the throttle body out, buy a new gasket before u do that, don't put the old one back in there it my leak and cause more problems, after u remove the throotle body, look in it and u are going to see to holes inside of it, what is happening is that does hole are plug with carbon and that is why the egr doesnt have flow, u need to by some cleaner and clean all inside the holes, i use a small screwdrive like a pocket screwdrive and bend it enough to get in there, if u have air blow in them but carefull it will slpash back in your face, that should solve your problem Answercheck vacuum lines and solenoids...all are located at the top rear of the engine AnswerRemove your throttle body and you will see a hole about the size of your index finger on the left of the intake passage. It will be plugged with carbon and oily deposits from the PCV valve. Clean this thouroughly, replace the throttle body gasket and any wiring, vacuum lines you removed! No more P0400 code.
You don't!! It's not an easy job. I recommend a certified mechanic or a Mazda Dealership. Probably gonna run btwn $400-$600...but the cars performance will definitely increase.
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