I am in need of advice on how to remove the rear inside panels to access the bolts for the shocks on a 2004 Mazda tribute, I do not want to break any of the plastic studs in the process, need the locations of the attachment points
its in side the transmission case , can not be changed without removing the transmission and splitting the case
I can't guarantee the montero SPECIFICALLY, but almost every vehicle manufactured today has an internal regulator.
1. Turn the ignition key to On or Accessory. Pull up the emergency brake.
2. Press Source or Power to turn the Pioneer car stereo off.
3. Press the Clock button to display the time.
4.Press and hold the Function or Audio button for 3-4 seconds. The display will come on, and the hour should flash.
5. Use the Up or Down buttons to change the hour setting on the stereo.
6. Press the Left or Right keys to get to the minutes. When the minutes start to flash, press the Up or Down keys to set the clock to the correct minutes.
7. Press the Function or Audio button again to exit.
The brake light switch is located behind the brake pedal. it is easily removed, first disconnect wire couplink ,next unscrew the switch from behind the bracket. there should be a locknut holding it in place. next, put in the new switch the same way the old one came out. make sure that when the break pedal is in released position that the buton on the switch is pressed in. you may have to ajust the switch position to achieve this goal.
the tribe that paid tribute to the calusas are the tuestas
Natty gave up his life as a trapper to live with Hard-Heart, a young Pawnee chief
Saturday December 19th
I got my 92 MPV manual on eBay I think I paid about $10.00 but I forgot
Let it idle for over one minute in Park without a/c on.
Let it idle for over one minute in Drive with brake pedal depressed.
Let it idle for over one minute in Drive with brakes pedal depressed and a/c on.
The 2.3 liter 4 cylinder and the 3.0 liter V6 engines must have timing CHAINS because
the Gates website ( they make timing belts etc. ) does not list timing belts
Have you found the answer to this problem? My Mazda Tribute 2002 does the same thing but I don't know what to do.
I had the same problem a while ago. It's the day time running light module failing. The module is located up under the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. It's a bit of a tight spot to get to but easy to change. There is one electrical connector and one bolt through a plate holding the module in place.
I have an 2001 Tribute, so they are probably similar.
Back passenger door
1. Remove the phillipshead screw inside the door handle assembly(it's under the thing that looks like a cap)(later you'll have to slide this off while you remove the panel, but it's not a big deal)
2. Remove the black phillipshead screw inside of the the armrest(you can see it from the top because you'll be looking at it)
3. Now the fun part. You have to pop the door panel off. There are about 6 "screws" that hold the door panel on the door. It will take a little bit of force but the plastic screws shouldn't break. I thought they would break on me when I popped the first one out, but they didn't. But do be careful.
A light that looks like a house? The only answer I can provide is to call your local Mazda dealer. You need an owner's manual don't you? Dealer, salvage yard, ebay, and many online sites are sources.
I had the same problem on my 2002 Mazda Tribute. No one could tell me the answer. I found out eventually that it was the alternator. Once I had it replaced, the light went off and hasn't come back on.
Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.
You'll need a metric socket set,
a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
A roll of tape to use as labels
In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
Disconnect the battery
Remove the engine cowling
Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
Remove the ribbed air intake hose
Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
Remove the manifold
Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
Remove each of the spark plug caps
Remove and replace each of the spark plugs
[[User:Christopher.t.miller|Christopher.t.miller]] 02:26, 22 Feb 2009 (UTC)[[User:Christopher.t.miller|Christopher.t.miller]] 02:26, 22 Feb 2009 (UTC)[[User:Christopher.t.miller|Christopher.t.miller]] 02:26, 22 Feb 2009 (UTC)[[User:Christopher.t.miller|Christopher.t.miller]] 02:26, 22 Feb 2009 (UTC)[[User:Christopher.t.miller|Christopher.t.miller]] 02:26, 22 Feb 2009 (UTC)
Now the more descriptive version:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.
Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.
Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.
Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.
Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.
Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.
Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.
Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.
Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.
Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.
Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.
Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.
You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.
Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.
Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT jerk them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.
That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.
Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles. This may sound a little daunting at first, but isn't difficult if you take things in order.
Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor. Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this helps. Good luck.
To change the front turn lights (indicators) on a Mazda Tribute (2006 Australian model), turn the wheel away from the side you are working on, then undo the screws holding the forward sections of the mud guards located within the forward section of the wheel arch (on the 2006 model they require a shifting wrench or equivalent ratchet). Then pull away the mud guard which will still be attached but will give you room to get your hand inside. Reach forward through the gap up to approximately where the back of the turn light is and feel for the rear of the light - clasp the connector and twist anti-clockwise to release and withdraw the connector and bulb. Pull this out of the gap (there is enough cable to do this) and then change the bulb. Then reverse this procedure. It is a bit cramped but it is relatively simple. I did this and found the bulb was not blown, it was simply dust in the connector so take a close look at the bulb, test it when you have it out of the wheel arch as it may simply be dust in the connector. I recommend changing both left and right bulbs if one is blown (they will have a similar lifespan).
See sources and related links below for light bulb info.
Why does spaz pay tribute to the bangers?