hi, the four little holes in the front of the stereo are for 2 special tools. they are cheap (i think) and most shops have them around. it only takes 2 minutes to remove with the tools, so it shouldn't cost much to have a shop do it if you dont want to buy the tools. hope that helps
you can get the u shaped tools at walmart for about 7 bucks in the car stereo section wamong the installation kits.
I'll add you insert the two tools until you feel the first click. Then push each tool outwards towards the sides of the stereo which releases the catches. While doing that then pull straight out. The tools are readily available anywhere they sell stereos.
Start with 3 qts and add more if needed. I don't remember exactly how much they take, but its not much. 1992 TOYOTA PASEO 1.5L 4-cyl Engine Code 5E-FE
As to the Oil Filter it calls for this one.
Wix # 51394
This one will fit it's just about 1/2 inch longer with will get you a little more oil.
Wix # 51396
Engine, with filter..........3.4 quarts
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........5.3 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Initial Fill..........3.3 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill..........7.6 quarts
Manual Transmission, ..........4.9 pints
1. After refill check oil level.
2. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all gears. Check fluid level in PARK and add fluid as needed.
Oil Drain Plug.....18 ft-lbs
Fill Plug.....29 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....29 ft-lbs
Hope This Helps.
Should be the tensioner that the Alternator belt goes to
6.5 or 6 1/2 in front and 6 x 9 speakers in back.
Not all vehicles come from the factory with an engine block heater, chances are yours did not. Call your dealer where you purchased your vehicle. Or call your local dodge dealer. If your vehicle has one, (most likely does not) your dealer will tell you where it is.
Order a stereo from Crutchfield. That is what I did. You tell them you have a Mazda Protege 1998 and they send all the harnesses and DIN tools you need. All you need is a flathead screwdriver, soldering iron and some solder, electrical tape, wire strippers.
I had a little trouble figuring out where to ground my Kenwood stereo, but I figured out you can hook it up to the Protege's black and yellow wire that used to plug into the back of the factory stereo.
Haynes repair manual, Dodge Neon 2000 thru 2003. Book #30036 This book can answer almost any question and is a must if you work on your own car. Plus it's only $20 alldatadiy.com.....but its $25 imo it's worth it if you plan to keep that car. you get everything a dealer gets, Autozone.com Free
Open the hood. Look at the right side of the top of the motor and you'll see a 4 inch diameter flexible plastic hose connect to it (it runs to the air filter box). Look a few inches to the left and a few inches towards the winshield from where that hose attatches to the motor and you'll see the EGR valve. It will be metal, have a round shape about 3 inches across.
it is a emission device exhaust gas recirculation , it take exhaust gasses and by control of the cars pcm or computer and a egr valve it introduces a calibrated amount of exhaust back into the engines air fuel mixture.exhaust being mostly a inert gas will lower combustion chamber temperatures for a more efficient burn that will lower nitrous oxide emissions. its also re-burns left over hydro carbons that do not get burned in the combustion process
my cluch is lost pressure and the geare doest notwork even i have change the valve onbelow
Check the timing belt Answer - My 99 Protege was leaking out coolant slowly out of the water pump. A seal on it had gone bad and the pump needed to be replaced. Haven't had a leak or an overheat since new pmp was installed.
Well...mine blew the #2 sparkplug completely out of the cylinder, but in most cases, you'll notice a significant lack of power, or sometimes you can hear a knocking sound. Your best bet is to take it to a mechanic, because sometimes it may not be the head and it might just be a faulty gasket
Could be a bad ground circuit Could be weak battery or alternator not supplying adequate voltage
the a\c clutch for the compressor is probably staying on when you turn the car off.
It could be the ignition switch. or a bad relay.
egr vavle is very easy after a few replacements. its located under the throttle body with either 2 10mm or 12mm bolts. along with 1 plug. a little tricky at first, but do not take to a dealership for this, waste of time, and ive done about 30+ of these at my dealership. get the erg and the gasket. very easy, remove air filter box, undo all plugs, then replace egr. gl i was told to see if the line was disconted on mine if it was i d to repair it and it ws need to get fitting to conected 2 hoses together. if not then the erg vaulve box wasnt working. its a little black box on the fire wasl by the winshild .check the hose that is conected to it You have to know what the code reads. If it reads PO300, then most probably it is your egr valve. You either have to have it cleaned or replace it. I have that same problem with my Mazda Protege 2001 es and i will go this week to have it checked. Let's see how this will cost. I hope this will resolve my miss fire problem on the car. Alain If you look around at forums and discussion groups about this vehicle, the EGR often comes up. It seems that the check engine light and obd code come up when the egr valve sticks, which happens when it gets gummed up and/or dirty. I have often reset my check engine light by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, and the light does not come on for weeks, sometimes months, and now it doesn't come on at all. If you take it to a dealership or mechanic out for bucks, they will tell you that you need a new EGR valve, charge you a few hundred bucks, and the thing will get gummed up again in no time. I would either take it apart and clean it out with some pressurized air and carb cleaner, or try reseting the code to see if it's really a constant problem. 60,000 miles after the first EGR related check engine light and I still haven't had any problems.
I assume you mean the rotor for the distributor. It is held in place with a small Phillips head screw. Take of the distributor cap (held in place with two Phillips head screws). Turn the engine over until the contact portion of the rotor is pointing down. Unscrew the machine screw from the rotor arem and pull the rotor off the distributor shaft.
If you are refering to the brake rotor, you will need to jack the car up and support it on jack stands. Remove the road wheel & tire. Have someone step on the brake pedal, and undo the nut holding the half-shaft to the hub assembly. Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the strut. Remove the cotter pin and undo the nut of the tie rod from the hub assembly; uncouple the tie rod end from the steering arm of the hub assembly. Undo the bottom pinch bolt (holds the axle carrier to the lower ball joint). Remove the top two bolts of the axle carrier/brake rotor assembly. You can now take the axle carrier/brake rotor assenbly off the car.
Working on the bench, bend back the loaking tabs for the rotor retaining bolts, then remove the retaining bolts. You should now be able to remove the brake rotor from the hub. Note if you have committed to replacing your brake rotors, you will probably want to repalce you hub bearinsg and seals while you have these assemblies off the car.
Also be sure to inspect your lower ball joints and brake pads and replace if worn.
the horn on my 94 LX just went off. I've pulled the fuse and hope that'll silence it, as do my neighbors. The fuse box is located inside, near the door on the driver's side. The fuse is #20, yellow, but be aware that it also is the brake light fuse. Good luck!
I have had 2 1992 Protege's give us the midnight wake up and both were caused by the same thing. It seems that the horn switch in the steering wheel is nothing more than 2 metal plates separated by a piece of foam. With age that foam deteriorates and no longer retains it's shape. So the plates over time get closer and closer together as the foam flatennes out until finally (usually while the neighborhood is asleep-don't know how it knows) the horn blows constantly. This seems to first happen when the weather gets cold, I guess it's yet another example of how shrinkage is bad. I had to take the steering wheel apart and using the metal plates as a form, cut a new piece of foam in the same shape as the old one. It's a little tricky but it works.
4 qts 10w30 Motor oil (name is your choice)
Recommended: Castrol GTX, Castrol GTX High Mileage
If not factory supplied R-134A, it will have to be converted to same.
Who was the 35th president?
Odds are it's probably not just your Mazda. Most vehicles do that when the rotor is shot or warp\ped. The rotor is the big disc (or cd) that the disc brakes apply pressure to when you push your breaks. When the surface is warped or shot, the surface is no longer smooth, causing what can be a shimmy shake. You can tell by taking off your tire, and by rubbing your finger up and down the rotor. If you feel a lip or rough edge from the edge towards the inside, then it's the rotor. They are generally about $20-$30 to replace. Otherwise it could be that one or both of the wheel bearings are shot.
Typically the light will remain on if the fluid is low, or maybe the ebrake just pulled just enough that it is on..... or the switch that is triggered by the handle is faulty
The Main Voltage regulator it built into the Alternator
There is also one on the instrument panel to stabilise the voltage to the gauges
At the top of the engine near the windshield on the passenger side.