Most cars won't even run is the converter is clogged. Clogged converters can get very hot, maybe even start fires.
Sometimes the boots crack in a seam and hard to find. If there is grease there is a rip.
no. it doesnt. in 1st gens they used a 2.2 I4, a 2.2 I4 Turbo and a 3.0 V6. Second gens are 2.0 I4 and a 2.5 V6 DOHC. hope this helps!
with a lots of patience....
2.0 I-4 or 2.5 V6?
If its the 2.5 1.put the car on ramps 2. drain radiator fluid3. remove upper radiator hose3. loosen/remove alt. drive belt (loosesn belt tensioner bolt and then move the tensioner up with adjusting bolt, a/c belt similar)4. remove plastic splash shield 5. loosen/remove drive belt for ac compressor.6. remove a/c compressor & support it on a stand but DONOT DISCONNECT A/C LINES 7. loosen alt. bolts (2) and unplug/unbolt wires from alt.8. remove old alt. from car (be careful not to damage radiator as there is not much clearance)
don't forget to refill and bleed the cooling system. you may have to unbolt the radiator supports and remove the cooling fan to gain access to the alt.
also, the 1st alt. I bought was bad, might be a good idea to have your new alt. bench tested before installation, most parts stores will do this for free.
Since it is OBD11 it requires a scanner to retrieve the codes. Most parts stores will read then for free.
you can use a car scanner to clear it out.
I followed the procedure for the 1998 model in an earlier post and it was exactly the same. Just remember to handle the new bulb by the base when installing to keep oil from fingers off of the glass. First I removed the two bolts that hold the intake in place. Then I moved the intake off to the side. Then you have to pull back the rubber hood from the light. After that I used a pair of pliers to unhook a clip that holds the bulb in the mount. Dudeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee you were right!!
For the right side you have to remove two screws and move the coolant reservoir via Phillips head screwdriver. You can reach the left side without removing anything. You will need plenty of lighting to see what you're doing.
Check in the fuse box under the hood over the left front tire. That's where it is on my 94.
my car has been slipping in the transmission would it be the that the transmission is bad or is the filiter and the transmission fluid needing changed?
To get to the dash bulbs, you have to remove the side plastic panel in between the dash and the driver door. You can pry it off, but be gentle because it is only held together with plastic pop-rivets. You will not have to replace them, but you might break one or two (no problem). Then, you can remove the panel on the top of the dash and access the light bulbs behind the display. Don't be afraid, it all comes off with pressure. Just be careful. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In the 1997 Mazda 626, all you have to do is unscrew the instrment frame, pop it out of the plastic rivets and remove it. After that, unscrew the instrument cluster (there are four screws, two on top and two on the bottom) unhook the three electrical outlets and pull the cluster out. It's quick and easy.
Just break through the window rip the wires out from under the steering wheel and cut all of them. The alarm should be temp disabled. Warning: You may get arressted. Caution: Free ride in Police Car.
You can do this by turnning your key forward, disconnect the battery cable, let it stay off for about 1 minute, hook it back up, and the alarm should be off for now and the car should start and stay started!!!
I have a 1999 Mazda 626 with the CD4E transmission that had the engine code 1744. The transmission in my car would slip after the fluid was warm. My car had 123000 miles on it and had the transmission rebuilt once before. There are brass bushings inside this transmission that were worn out on my car. I bought a newer CD4E transmission from Ebay (40,000 miles) and put a shift kit in in with a new torque cnverter and new gaskets. The shift kit comes with drill bits to increase the size of the lub ports to increase oil flow to bushings. The previous rebuild was $1200 but obviously they did not change all the parts that needed changed or used the wrong parts. These transmissions are expensive and can be hard to find. I got one from a Ford Escape but had to use the old bell housing because the Ford Escape has a different starter mount. I was told they could not be interchanged but for me it worked.
It is the intake air temp is low. The sensor that is in the air intake before the throttle body is probably disconnected.
The "0" in p0112 is generic. See Mazda specific codes below--look at P1112. Locate the sensor by facing engine and find a black box in front of you. The sensor is to the right of the black box and it's the second connector.
P1000 OBD II Monitor Testing Not Completed
P1001 Unable to Achieve Self-Test Function or SCP Error
P1100 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P1101 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit out of Self-Test Range
P1102 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Inconsistent with Throttle Position Sensor
P1103 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Inconsistent with Engine Speed
P1110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Signal (Dynamic Chamber) Circuit
P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P1113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Signal (Dynamic Chamber) Circuit
P1114 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1116 ECT Sensor Circuit Out of Self Test Range
P1117 ECT Sensor Signal Intermittent
P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of Range Low
P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Not Consistent with Mass Airflow Signal
P1122 Throttle Position Stuck Closed
P1123 Throttle Position Stuck Open
P1124 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Out of Self Test Range
P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Intermittent
P1127 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Not On During Key On Engine Running Self Test
P1128 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signals Swapped in Key On Engine Running Self Test
P1130 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)
P1131 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)
P1132 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)
P1135 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit Low Input
P1136 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit High Input
P1137 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)
P1138 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)
P1141 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit Low Input
P1142 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit High Input
P1143 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 3 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)
P1144 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 3 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)
P1150 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)
P1151 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)
P1152 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)
P1169 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1170 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1173 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P1195 EGR Boost Sensor Circuit
P1196 Ignition Switch Start Circuit
P1235 Fuel Pump Control Circuit
P1236 Fuel Pump Control Out Range
P1250 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit
P1252 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid '2' Circuit
P1260 Anti-Theft System Signal Detected - Engine Disabled
P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limit Reached
P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor
P1345 No CMP or SGC Signal
P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal Lost to PCM or Out Of Range
P1352 Ignition Coil 'A' Primary Circuit
P1353 Ignition Coil 'B' Primary Circuit
P1354 Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Circuit
P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal Out Of Self Test Range
P1359 SPOUT Signal Lost To Powertrain Control Module Or Out Of Range
P1360 Ignition Coil 'A' Secondary Circuit
P1361 Ignition Coil 'B' Secondary Circuit
P1362 Ignition Coil 'C' Secondary Circuit
P1364 Ignition Coil Primary Circuit
P1365 Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit
P1390 Octane Adjust Shorting Bar Out or Circuit Open
P1400 DPFE Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1401 DPFE Sensor Circuit High Input
P1402 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit
P1405 DPFE Sensor Upstream Hose Off Or Plugged
P1406 DPFE Sensor Downstream Hose Off or Plugged
P1407 No EGR Flow Detected
P1408 EGR System Flow Out of Key On Engine Running Self Test Range
P1409 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
P1410 EGR Boost Solenoid Valve Stuck
P1443 EVAP System Purge Flow Fault
P1444 EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P1446 EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1449 CDCV or Throttle PositionCV Circuit
P1450 EVAP Control System Fault
P1451 Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit
P1455 Fuel Tank Level Sensor Circuit
P1460 Wide Open Throttle A/C Cut-Off Relay Circuit
P1464 Air Conditioning Control Signal Circuit
P1474 Fan Control (Primary Winding) Circuit
P1479 Fan Control (Condenser Primary) Circuit
P1485 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Circuit
P1486 EGR Vent Solenoid Circuit
P1487 EGR-CHK (Boost) Solenoid Circuit
P1496 EGR Valve Motor Coil '1' Open or Shorted
P1497 EGR Valve Motor Coil '2' Open or Shorted
P1498 EGR Valve Motor Coil '3 Open or Shorted
P1499 EGR Valve Motor Coil '4' Open or Shorted
P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent Signal
P1501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Out of Self Test Range
P1502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Error
P1504 Idle Air Control Solenoid Circuit Intermittent
P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip
P1506 Idle Air Control System Overspeed Detected
P1507 Idle Air Control System Underspeed Detected
P1508 Bypass Air Solenoid '1' Circuit
P1509 Bypass Air Solenoid '2 Circuit
P1512 VTCS Fault
P1521 VRIS Solenoid '1' Circuit
P1522 VRIS Solenoid '2 Circuit
P1523 VICS Solenoid Circuit
P1524 Charge Air Cooler Bypass Solenoid Circuit
P1525 ABV Vacuum Solenoid Circuit
P1526 ABV Vent Solenoid Circuit
P1529 L/C Atmospheric Balance Air Control Valve Circuit
P1540 ABV System Fault
P1562 Powertrain Control Module +BB Voltage Low
P1569 VTCS Circuit Low Input
P1570 VTCS Circuit High Input
P1601 Powertrain Control Module Communication Line to TCM Error
P1602 Powertrain Control Module Communication Line to TCM Error
P1602 Immobilizer System Communication Error with Powertrain Control Module
P1603 Immobilizer System Fault
P1604 Immobilizer System Fault
P1605 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory Test Error
P1608 Powertrain Control Module (ECM CPU) DTC Test Fault
P1609 Powertrain Control Module (ECM CPU) Knock Sensor Circuit
P1621 lmmobilizer System Fault
P1622 lmmobilizer System Fault
P1623 lmmobilizer System Fault
P1624 lmmobilizer System Fault
P1627 Powertrain Control Module (ECM/TCS) Line Communication Error
P1628 Powertrain Control Module (ECM/TCS) Any Line Communication Error
P1631 Generator Output Voltage Signal (No Output)
P1632 Battery Voltage Monitor Circuit
P1633 Battery Overcharge Fault
P1634 Generator Terminal 'B' Circuit Open
P1650 Power Steering Pressure Switch Out of Range Fault
P1651 Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit
P1652 Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit
P1701 Transmission Range Sensor Reverse Engagement Error
P1702 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P1703 Brake On/Off Switch Out of Self Test Range
P1705 Transmission Range Sensor out of Self Test Range
P1709 Clutch Pedal Position Switch Circuit
P1711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit out of Self Test Range
P1713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit
P1714 Shift Solenoid '1' Mechanical Fault
P1715 Shift Solenoid '2' Mechanical Fault
P1716 Shift Solenoid '3' Mechanical Fault
P1717 Shift Solenoid '4' Mechanical Fault
P1718 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit
P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor '2' Signal Error
P1729 Transmission 4x4 Low Switch Error
P1740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Mechanical Fault
P1741 Torque Converter Clutch Control Electrical Fault
P1742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Shorted
P1743 Torque Converter Clutch Failed On - TCIL is On
P1744 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Mechanical Fault
P1746 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Open
P1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit
P1749 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Low
P1751 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'A' Mechanical Fault
P1752 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'A' Circuit Shorted
P1754 Transmission Coast Clutch Solenoid Electrical Fault
P1756 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'B' Mechanical Fault
P1757 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'B' Circuit Shorted
P1761 Transmission Shift Solenoid '3' Mechanical Fault
P1762 Transmission SS3/SS4/OD Band Fault
P1765 Transmission 3-2 Timing Solenoid Valve
P1767 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit
P1771 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Open to Transmission Control Module
P1772 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Shorted to Transmission Control Module
P1780 Transmission Control Switch Circuit
P1780 Overdrive Off Switch not Cycled during the Self Test
P1781 Transmission 4x4 Low Switch out of Range Fault
P1783 Transmission Fluid Temperature High Input
P1788 3-2T/CCS Circuit Open
P1789 3-2T/CCS Circuit Shorted
P1794 Powertrain Control Module Battery Direct Power Circuit
P1797 P/N Switch Open or Short Circuit
P1900 Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P1901 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
Here's a web page that shows how to do it on a Mazda Miata, which is bound to be somewhat similar and somewhat different, but it should show you what you're in for if you attempt it:
I just did my first timing belt change...my advice do a i did and replace the idler, tensioner, and tensioner spring while you're at it. First, remove batter power. Second remoce the plug wires. Remove the power steering pump, with the hoses still atached. Next make sure the engine is supported and remove he motor mount. emove the head and gasket. Neext the right wheel and splash guard. Remove the tension via the teniosner with a Allen wrench. put on the ne belt and reassemble.
This information can be found in your owner's manual. If you do not have one, you can obtain one from your dealer or a salvage yard.
The 1989 to 1991 Mazda 626 models, have a similar speedo cable setup. There are 2 kinds of cable. The first is a one-piece cable that runs from the transmission to the back of the speedo as one continuous length The second is a two-piece cable that has a 6 inch section from the transmission, connected to a 40 inch piece which goes to the dash. The care easily discernable because the two piece one has a large coupling on it, six inches from the transmission. To replace, simply slacken the nut on the cable from the transmission side first, using a 17mm open-ended spanner. Once off, pull the cable out of the tranny by leaning over it and gently punning it straight up. Then, remove the dash console by uncrewing all the screws. There are 4 to 5 screws, found on the underside of the dash, in front of the gauge cluster. Once off gently pull the finiher off exposing the gauge pod. It's an all in once pod of the gauges with a clear plexiglas cover. (Take care not to scratch it while handling it) The cluster itself is held to the dash by four screws. These are clearly visible in the four corners of the gauge pod. Once removed, pull the pod to you (sitting in the drivers seat) slowly. It is still connected via electrical connections. These must be unpluged so you have to reach behind the gauge pod using as little space as possible. Once unplugged, the final attachment is the speedo cable itself. It's connector is round and thick and either yellow or white plastic. There's a tab to one side that must be pressed to release it. Press the tab and pull the cable away from the gauges. ( Away from you/ towards the windsheild. ) Once it's out you can freely slacken any cable clips holding the speedo cable unser the hood and along the firewall. Pull the now free cable back through the firewall towards the engine. Handle the cable clips carefullyt and re-use them as they arent sold with the cable and are hard to source. Just repeat the process in the reverse for installation.
Hi guys ( and gals)... had the same problem on a UK registered 2001 626 GSi Automatic ( not Ford Built ) at about 100k miles and took it to my main dealer with a virtually full tank of petrol ( see below) for a computer code check as the problem was intermittent..they diagnosed and fitted a new lambda sensor ( at great cost ) which seemed to cure the problem until fuel ran low...got the warning light back!.
Noticed that when I had refueled, it was fine but when fuel was low, the light came on and the car started missing a bit..It felt almost like fuel starvation like on old motorbikes that I owned years ago but filter was clean / almost new. Will add that car was serviced "almost religiously"!!
Went to a backstreet garage nearby who diagnosed at once "fuel pump failure"...the weight of the fuel was forcing it through the system and as fuel was used, less was getting to engine, getting leaner etc, etc! Fitted ( cheaply ) pattern fuel pump, problem solved, gave the car away in 2007 with 250k miles on clock when I bought my latest Mazda 6 and it is still going strong locally!
My advice is, check fuel pump before lambda O2 sensor...it's easy now I know, pull the pipe off the connection block and see the flow, if you get soaked in petrol, the pump is ok ( and don't go near a naked flame!), if not, likely to be pump
Following answers are nothing to do with me but where I have probably tapped into the wrong section and posted incorrectly... please observe and respect their solutions..who knows, they are probably right and little me, in Cornwall, UK is wrong! Have the proverbial, " Nice Day "
There's no way to know until you hook up an OBD-II code scanner to read the codes. There are several scanners available on the market, the cheapest is around $122 but any decent garage should have one these days. The Mazda uses ISO 9141-2 protocol.
There's a nice list of OBD-II codes here http:/autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
i had the same problem.. i found a wire pulled out of the pin at the connector, not to far from the o2 sencer..
error code 0171. system to lean. today just changed fuel filter, Mazda 626 97. not sure if the error code will come back or not. will know tomorrow,
Funny, I dealt with this today, mine came on and i hooked it up to the ODBII and it read "system to lean" im assuming the fuel filter needs to be changed.
I have a 1999 Mazda 626 with a 4 cylinder that needed the intake manifold gasket replaced. I was told it was a common problem for the gasket to leak. The leak at the gasket will cause the car to run lean because of increased air. My car also had an idle problem.
I had the same problem with my 1997 626 it come to find out i had an exhust leak and i also had a trans problem. The exhaust leak made my car run real lean.But ya your best bet is to hook it up to the ODBII to get the code or codes and go from there.
If the CE light comes on, drive to your nearest Auto Zone store and they will check it and give you the codes for free.">
I had a code coming back "system too lean" also a code that the O2 sensor had a problem and "catalytic converter not efficient. The engine acted like it was running out of gas and the tranny even gave me trouble and had a code on that too. Another code said I may have a dirty MAFS. They make a MAFS cleaner to spay on and clean. All the codes went away and the problems were fixed for $7 !!! Makes sense if the engine is not getting the right air combination to start with all the other sensors will pick up a bad reading. By the way...an auto repair shop charged me $100 to diagnose this and give me the codes and concluded I needed a new cat converter at $1300 , a rebuilt tranny at $2,800 and clean the MAFS at $60
Autozone gave me the same codes for free.
Same as the front except don't try to compress the caliper. remove the cap that is in back and loosen with an Allen wrench
P1131 code does not show up in the book. There is a code for P0131 which is the heated 02 sensor or circuit fail.
you cut the old hose off. size up new regular heater hose to match same length.push new hose as far as you can on the right side then bend the hose to push over the left side. make sure you put the hose clamps on before you start to put the new hose on.make sure both sides are about equal then tighten the clamps down. good luck!
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the engine coolant from the radiator to below the level of the thermostat.
Fig. 3: To remove the thermostat, first drain the cooling system, then remove the radiator hose-to-thermostat housing cover clamp ...
Fig. 4: ... by sliding back on the hose. Note the alignment marks on the hose and housing cover (arrows)
Fig. 5: Disconnect the hose from the thermostat housing cover
Fig. 6: Loosen the thermostat housing cover attaching bolts ...
Fig. 7: ... then remove them ...
Fig. 8: ... along with the housing cover/water outlet
Fig. 9: Remove the thermostat from the housing by simply pulling it outward
Fig. 10: When installing the new thermostat, note the tab (arrow) which seats into a notch in the housing. Jiggle pin must face straight up
Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the engine.
Remove the housing bolts, thermostat housing, thermostat and gasket.
Do not pry the housing off.
Clean the thermostat housing and the cylinder head mating surfaces.
Make sure that the thermostat jiggle pin is aligned with the gasket projection.
Install the thermostat to the housing. Align the gasket projection with the opening in the housing. The spring side of the thermostat should face into the housing.
Install the thermostat housing cover and tighten both bolts to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
Fill the cooling system. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. Check the coolant level and add coolant, as necessary.
FOR PICTURES GO TO: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/44/e4/0900823d801444e4.jsp
my recomendation is pull distributer cap and turn over the engine look to see that your rotor button is spinning, if its not spinning check you timing belt, but if it is spinning check on replacement of your coil pack and/or your entire distributer once all else fails...
My Timing belt is brand new and it is in perfect time...
THIS IS NOT AN ANSWER IT IS THE STORY BEHIND THE QUESTION
I bought the car after it had set for a year or so, put on new timing belt and water pump, car ran great for two days then suddenly when I hit 4500rpm my tach flip out and the car died. I checked for spark and got nothing. I double checked timingbelt, replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and the distributor.......I'm Lost
Have you tried resetting the Fuel Pump Cut Off switch in the left rear corner of your trunk? Is the "Fuel Cut-Off" lamp illumated on the dash when you try to start? This is a perplexing problem...seems like as the cars age and the distributors begin to wear down they send to much current to the immobilizer units in the cars(these trip the Fuel Cut-off Switch in the trunk). The excess current evidently erode or overheats the soldering on the chip board of the immobilizer unit, thus, triggering the fuel cut-off switch to activate.
All of that happening has eventually caused my probe to fail to start at all now...the fuel pump is not pumping and there is no spark being sent to the plugs...all a result of the immobilizer believing it has a problem.
The one other item it can be is a DOCUMENTED problem in Ford's Technical Service Bulletins where Ford admits there is a problem with corrosion on the wires for the immobilizer & fuel cut-off switch link.
I am in the middle of trying to fix mine. Good luck.
Hey buddy Why don,t u check your fuses take a ohm meter Check the resistance of Primary Wire or secondary wire. If there is no current in the primary wire that means there is problem with your Iginition relay change your relay u don,t need to reset your fuel system just change your relay that u can find when you wil pop the hood it should be green color. I think in Canadian it would cost u 106 try that hit me back
Ok I would say do a paperclip diagnostic on it it will throw you codes to check my probe threw me the code for my crank shaft postioning sensor and also could be the distributor could have a bad ignition module on it if the 94 is the same as the 93 which i think it is moisture gets in from teperature changes hot to cold ect... use a paperclip from your ten pin to your ground pin on your diagnostic block located by your battery hope this could help ive been thru it all with mine and found myself turning in distributor after distributor on warranty to fix my problem im still looking to find out if there is anyway to prevent the moisture from getting into the distributor
remove engine or transmission to get to rear oil seal . you have to remove fly wheel to r/r rear seal .pretty heavy dutyjob.
It takes alot of man hours and a few tools. Try a "Haynes Car Manual for your car from Autozone. It will give you step by step instructions
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/shopping/component_locations.jsp try this link..
The fuel filter is attached to a bracket located on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Look down in the space between the master cylinder fluid reservoir and the rear of the air filter compartment, you will be looking at the top of the fuel filter cannister. It's hard to get at. You will have to take off the air filter box. Go to
Mazda forums for more complete details.
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