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Most cars won't even run is the converter is clogged. Clogged converters can get very hot, maybe even start fires.

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Sometimes the boots crack in a seam and hard to find. If there is grease there is a rip.

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no. it doesnt. in 1st gens they used a 2.2 I4, a 2.2 I4 Turbo and a 3.0 V6. Second gens are 2.0 I4 and a 2.5 V6 DOHC. hope this helps!

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with a lots of patience....

2.0 I-4 or 2.5 V6?

If its the 2.5 1.put the car on ramps 2. drain radiator fluid3. remove upper radiator hose3. loosen/remove alt. drive belt (loosesn belt tensioner bolt and then move the tensioner up with adjusting bolt, a/c belt similar)4. remove plastic splash shield 5. loosen/remove drive belt for ac compressor.6. remove a/c compressor & support it on a stand but DONOT DISCONNECT A/C LINES 7. loosen alt. bolts (2) and unplug/unbolt wires from alt.8. remove old alt. from car (be careful not to damage radiator as there is not much clearance)

NOTE:

don't forget to refill and bleed the cooling system. you may have to unbolt the radiator supports and remove the cooling fan to gain access to the alt.

also, the 1st alt. I bought was bad, might be a good idea to have your new alt. bench tested before installation, most parts stores will do this for free.

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Since it is OBD11 it requires a scanner to retrieve the codes. Most parts stores will read then for free.

you can use a car scanner to clear it out.

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I followed the procedure for the 1998 model in an earlier post and it was exactly the same. Just remember to handle the new bulb by the base when installing to keep oil from fingers off of the glass. First I removed the two bolts that hold the intake in place. Then I moved the intake off to the side. Then you have to pull back the rubber hood from the light. After that I used a pair of pliers to unhook a clip that holds the bulb in the mount. Dudeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee you were right!!

For the right side you have to remove two screws and move the coolant reservoir via Phillips head screwdriver. You can reach the left side without removing anything. You will need plenty of lighting to see what you're doing.

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Check in the fuse box under the hood over the left front tire. That's where it is on my 94.

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my car has been slipping in the transmission would it be the that the transmission is bad or is the filiter and the transmission fluid needing changed?

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To get to the dash bulbs, you have to remove the side plastic panel in between the dash and the driver door. You can pry it off, but be gentle because it is only held together with plastic pop-rivets. You will not have to replace them, but you might break one or two (no problem). Then, you can remove the panel on the top of the dash and access the light bulbs behind the display. Don't be afraid, it all comes off with pressure. Just be careful. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In the 1997 Mazda 626, all you have to do is unscrew the instrment frame, pop it out of the plastic rivets and remove it. After that, unscrew the instrument cluster (there are four screws, two on top and two on the bottom) unhook the three electrical outlets and pull the cluster out. It's quick and easy.

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Just break through the window rip the wires out from under the steering wheel and cut all of them. The alarm should be temp disabled. Warning: You may get arressted. Caution: Free ride in Police Car.

You can do this by turnning your key forward, disconnect the battery cable, let it stay off for about 1 minute, hook it back up, and the alarm should be off for now and the car should start and stay started!!!

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It is the intake air temp is low. The sensor that is in the air intake before the throttle body is probably disconnected.

The "0" in p0112 is generic. See Mazda specific codes below--look at P1112. Locate the sensor by facing engine and find a black box in front of you. The sensor is to the right of the black box and it's the second connector.

P1000 OBD II Monitor Testing Not Completed

P1001 Unable to Achieve Self-Test Function or SCP Error

P1100 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1101 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit out of Self-Test Range

P1102 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Inconsistent with Throttle Position Sensor

P1103 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Inconsistent with Engine Speed

P1110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Signal (Dynamic Chamber) Circuit

P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Signal (Dynamic Chamber) Circuit

P1114 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1116 ECT Sensor Circuit Out of Self Test Range

P1117 ECT Sensor Signal Intermittent

P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of Range Low

P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Not Consistent with Mass Airflow Signal

P1122 Throttle Position Stuck Closed

P1123 Throttle Position Stuck Open

P1124 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Out of Self Test Range

P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Intermittent

P1127 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Not On During Key On Engine Running Self Test

P1128 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signals Swapped in Key On Engine Running Self Test

P1130 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)

P1131 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)

P1132 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1135 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit Low Input

P1136 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit High Input

P1137 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)

P1138 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1141 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit Low Input

P1142 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit High Input

P1143 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 3 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)

P1144 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 3 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1150 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)

P1151 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)

P1152 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1169 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1170 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1173 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1195 EGR Boost Sensor Circuit

P1196 Ignition Switch Start Circuit

P1235 Fuel Pump Control Circuit

P1236 Fuel Pump Control Out Range

P1250 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit

P1252 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid '2' Circuit

P1260 Anti-Theft System Signal Detected - Engine Disabled

P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limit Reached

P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor

P1345 No CMP or SGC Signal

P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal Lost to PCM or Out Of Range

P1352 Ignition Coil 'A' Primary Circuit

P1353 Ignition Coil 'B' Primary Circuit

P1354 Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Circuit

P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal Out Of Self Test Range

P1359 SPOUT Signal Lost To Powertrain Control Module Or Out Of Range

P1360 Ignition Coil 'A' Secondary Circuit

P1361 Ignition Coil 'B' Secondary Circuit

P1362 Ignition Coil 'C' Secondary Circuit

P1364 Ignition Coil Primary Circuit

P1365 Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit

P1390 Octane Adjust Shorting Bar Out or Circuit Open

P1400 DPFE Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1401 DPFE Sensor Circuit High Input

P1402 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit

P1405 DPFE Sensor Upstream Hose Off Or Plugged

P1406 DPFE Sensor Downstream Hose Off or Plugged

P1407 No EGR Flow Detected

P1408 EGR System Flow Out of Key On Engine Running Self Test Range

P1409 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit

P1410 EGR Boost Solenoid Valve Stuck

P1443 EVAP System Purge Flow Fault

P1444 EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

P1446 EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Voltage

P1449 CDCV or Throttle PositionCV Circuit

P1450 EVAP Control System Fault

P1451 Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit

P1455 Fuel Tank Level Sensor Circuit

P1460 Wide Open Throttle A/C Cut-Off Relay Circuit

P1464 Air Conditioning Control Signal Circuit

P1474 Fan Control (Primary Winding) Circuit

P1479 Fan Control (Condenser Primary) Circuit

P1485 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

P1486 EGR Vent Solenoid Circuit

P1487 EGR-CHK (Boost) Solenoid Circuit

P1496 EGR Valve Motor Coil '1' Open or Shorted

P1497 EGR Valve Motor Coil '2' Open or Shorted

P1498 EGR Valve Motor Coil '3 Open or Shorted

P1499 EGR Valve Motor Coil '4' Open or Shorted

P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent Signal

P1501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Out of Self Test Range

P1502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Error

P1504 Idle Air Control Solenoid Circuit Intermittent

P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip

P1506 Idle Air Control System Overspeed Detected

P1507 Idle Air Control System Underspeed Detected

P1508 Bypass Air Solenoid '1' Circuit

P1509 Bypass Air Solenoid '2 Circuit

P1512 VTCS Fault

P1521 VRIS Solenoid '1' Circuit

P1522 VRIS Solenoid '2 Circuit

P1523 VICS Solenoid Circuit

P1524 Charge Air Cooler Bypass Solenoid Circuit

P1525 ABV Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

P1526 ABV Vent Solenoid Circuit

P1529 L/C Atmospheric Balance Air Control Valve Circuit

P1540 ABV System Fault

P1562 Powertrain Control Module +BB Voltage Low

P1569 VTCS Circuit Low Input

P1570 VTCS Circuit High Input

P1601 Powertrain Control Module Communication Line to TCM Error

P1602 Powertrain Control Module Communication Line to TCM Error

P1602 Immobilizer System Communication Error with Powertrain Control Module

P1603 Immobilizer System Fault

P1604 Immobilizer System Fault

P1605 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory Test Error

P1608 Powertrain Control Module (ECM CPU) DTC Test Fault

P1609 Powertrain Control Module (ECM CPU) Knock Sensor Circuit

P1621 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1622 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1623 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1624 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1627 Powertrain Control Module (ECM/TCS) Line Communication Error

P1628 Powertrain Control Module (ECM/TCS) Any Line Communication Error

P1631 Generator Output Voltage Signal (No Output)

P1632 Battery Voltage Monitor Circuit

P1633 Battery Overcharge Fault

P1634 Generator Terminal 'B' Circuit Open

P1650 Power Steering Pressure Switch Out of Range Fault

P1651 Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit

P1652 Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit

P1701 Transmission Range Sensor Reverse Engagement Error

P1702 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1703 Brake On/Off Switch Out of Self Test Range

P1705 Transmission Range Sensor out of Self Test Range

P1709 Clutch Pedal Position Switch Circuit

P1711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit out of Self Test Range

P1713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit

P1714 Shift Solenoid '1' Mechanical Fault

P1715 Shift Solenoid '2' Mechanical Fault

P1716 Shift Solenoid '3' Mechanical Fault

P1717 Shift Solenoid '4' Mechanical Fault

P1718 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit

P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor '2' Signal Error

P1729 Transmission 4x4 Low Switch Error

P1740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Mechanical Fault

P1741 Torque Converter Clutch Control Electrical Fault

P1742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Shorted

P1743 Torque Converter Clutch Failed On - TCIL is On

P1744 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Mechanical Fault

P1746 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Open

P1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit

P1749 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Low

P1751 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'A' Mechanical Fault

P1752 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'A' Circuit Shorted

P1754 Transmission Coast Clutch Solenoid Electrical Fault

P1756 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'B' Mechanical Fault

P1757 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'B' Circuit Shorted

P1761 Transmission Shift Solenoid '3' Mechanical Fault

P1762 Transmission SS3/SS4/OD Band Fault

P1765 Transmission 3-2 Timing Solenoid Valve

P1767 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit

P1771 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Open to Transmission Control Module

P1772 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Shorted to Transmission Control Module

P1780 Transmission Control Switch Circuit

P1780 Overdrive Off Switch not Cycled during the Self Test

P1781 Transmission 4x4 Low Switch out of Range Fault

P1783 Transmission Fluid Temperature High Input

P1788 3-2T/CCS Circuit Open

P1789 3-2T/CCS Circuit Shorted

P1794 Powertrain Control Module Battery Direct Power Circuit

P1797 P/N Switch Open or Short Circuit

P1900 Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1901 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent

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Wrong car

Here's a web page that shows how to do it on a Mazda Miata, which is bound to be somewhat similar and somewhat different, but it should show you what you're in for if you attempt it:

http://paulstrovsky.20m.com/TimingBeltChange/TBPart1.htm

I just did my first timing belt change...my advice do a i did and replace the idler, tensioner, and tensioner spring while you're at it. First, remove batter power. Second remoce the plug wires. Remove the power steering pump, with the hoses still atached. Next make sure the engine is supported and remove he motor mount. emove the head and gasket. Neext the right wheel and splash guard. Remove the tension via the teniosner with a Allen wrench. put on the ne belt and reassemble.

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This information can be found in your owner's manual. If you do not have one, you can obtain one from your dealer or a salvage yard.

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The 1989 to 1991 Mazda 626 models, have a similar speedo cable setup. There are 2 kinds of cable. The first is a one-piece cable that runs from the transmission to the back of the speedo as one continuous length The second is a two-piece cable that has a 6 inch section from the transmission, connected to a 40 inch piece which goes to the dash. The care easily discernable because the two piece one has a large coupling on it, six inches from the transmission. To replace, simply slacken the nut on the cable from the transmission side first, using a 17mm open-ended spanner. Once off, pull the cable out of the tranny by leaning over it and gently punning it straight up. Then, remove the dash console by uncrewing all the screws. There are 4 to 5 screws, found on the underside of the dash, in front of the gauge cluster. Once off gently pull the finiher off exposing the gauge pod. It's an all in once pod of the gauges with a clear plexiglas cover. (Take care not to scratch it while handling it) The cluster itself is held to the dash by four screws. These are clearly visible in the four corners of the gauge pod. Once removed, pull the pod to you (sitting in the drivers seat) slowly. It is still connected via electrical connections. These must be unpluged so you have to reach behind the gauge pod using as little space as possible. Once unplugged, the final attachment is the speedo cable itself. It's connector is round and thick and either yellow or white plastic. There's a tab to one side that must be pressed to release it. Press the tab and pull the cable away from the gauges. ( Away from you/ towards the windsheild. ) Once it's out you can freely slacken any cable clips holding the speedo cable unser the hood and along the firewall. Pull the now free cable back through the firewall towards the engine. Handle the cable clips carefullyt and re-use them as they arent sold with the cable and are hard to source. Just repeat the process in the reverse for installation.

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P1131 code does not show up in the book. There is a code for P0131 which is the heated 02 sensor or circuit fail.

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you cut the old hose off. size up new regular heater hose to match same length.push new hose as far as you can on the right side then bend the hose to push over the left side. make sure you put the hose clamps on before you start to put the new hose on.make sure both sides are about equal then tighten the clamps down. good luck!

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check autozone.com

2.0L Engine

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Drain the engine coolant from the radiator to below the level of the thermostat.

Fig. 3: To remove the thermostat, first drain the cooling system, then remove the radiator hose-to-thermostat housing cover clamp ...

Fig. 4: ... by sliding back on the hose. Note the alignment marks on the hose and housing cover (arrows)

Fig. 5: Disconnect the hose from the thermostat housing cover

Fig. 6: Loosen the thermostat housing cover attaching bolts ...

Fig. 7: ... then remove them ...

Fig. 8: ... along with the housing cover/water outlet

Fig. 9: Remove the thermostat from the housing by simply pulling it outward

Fig. 10: When installing the new thermostat, note the tab (arrow) which seats into a notch in the housing. Jiggle pin must face straight up

Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the engine.

Remove the housing bolts, thermostat housing, thermostat and gasket.

Do not pry the housing off.

To install:

Clean the thermostat housing and the cylinder head mating surfaces.

Make sure that the thermostat jiggle pin is aligned with the gasket projection.

Install the thermostat to the housing. Align the gasket projection with the opening in the housing. The spring side of the thermostat should face into the housing.

Install the thermostat housing cover and tighten both bolts to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).

Fill the cooling system. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. Check the coolant level and add coolant, as necessary.

FOR PICTURES GO TO: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/44/e4/0900823d801444e4.jsp

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remove engine or transmission to get to rear oil seal . you have to remove fly wheel to r/r rear seal .pretty heavy dutyjob.

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It takes alot of man hours and a few tools. Try a "Haynes Car Manual for your car from Autozone. It will give you step by step instructions

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http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/shopping/component_locations.jsp try this link..

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The fuel filter is attached to a bracket located on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Look down in the space between the master cylinder fluid reservoir and the rear of the air filter compartment, you will be looking at the top of the fuel filter cannister. It's hard to get at. You will have to take off the air filter box. Go to

Mazda forums for more complete details.