Trouble code P1521 means: Variable Resonance Induction System Solenoid #1 Circuit Hope this points you in the right direction

In short the LX is more of a base model and the ES has more options. The ES also has the v6 engine whereas the LX has a 4 cyl engine.

not true, the LX can have a 6 cyl engine.

Odds are it's probably not just your Mazda. Most vehicles do that when the rotor is shot or warp\ped. The rotor is the big disc (or cd) that the disc brakes apply pressure to when you push your breaks. When the surface is warped or shot, the surface is no longer smooth, causing what can be a shimmy shake. You can tell by taking off your tire, and by rubbing your finger up and down the rotor. If you feel a lip or rough edge from the edge towards the inside, then it's the rotor. They are generally about $20-$30 to replace. Otherwise it could be that one or both of the wheel bearings are shot.

First and foremost, make sure you have a diagram before removing the old belt. If there isn

downshift

No

yes it is possible but you need a special Torx socket to remove the 2 safety screws holding it on. Be very carefull not to scrape any sealing surfaces on the piston and if using carb cleaner, keep it off the plactic and electrical parts.

I recommend, using either electrical cleaner, or brake cleaner as these dry and leave no residue. Be very careful taking it out of the throttle body, as to not lose the springs. Also, note the order it comes apart for reinstallation. spring, shaft and plunger, spring. Spray with cleaner, wipe clean. DO NOT spray into the throttle body. When reinstalling, be very careful not to lose the O ring on the throttle body. Tighten down. Also, if you lose the safety screws, don't fret. use the same size machine screws or bolts from any hardware store. Above all, take your time, and be careful: this part costs $400 and up.

The p0320m is a crankshaft position malfunction. The sensor could be bad, it could be a wiring issue, or a distributor problem.

It is important to know when to replace the parts within a vehicle. The timing belt on this car should be changed close to every 100,000 miles.?æ

Firstly pop the bonnet and remove the cap from the break fluid reservoir, now crack the nuts on the two front wheels. Jack the car up take the wheel nuts off and remove the wheel, the caliper holding the pads around the disc will usually have two bolts going from one side to the other remove the bolts and pry the entire caliper away from the disc. remove the old pads and push the piston on the break caliper back in with either a G-clamp or a big pair of grips. place the new pads in the caliper slot it over the disc line up the bolt holes and but the bolts back threw tighten them up and then replace the wheel tighten up the bolts diagonally from each over to make sure the wheel goes on straight. once you have done this to both sides replace the cap on the break fluid reservoir make sure there is no spilled break fluid as it strips paint if there is pour water onto it. there is no need to bleed the breaks unless the fluid has been in there for years as over time break fluid absorbs water which compresses so you have to push the pedal harder for less breaking power.

I found this online... it's worked on both 626 and Mazda 6. Worth a try.

Step one:- press one at a time - preset 6, AM, Auto M, Seek ^ (up).

Step Two:- Input this number, 4989.

Step Three:- Press and hold Auto M and Preset 6 together.

Step Four:- The Word ''GOOD'' will appear on the screen indicated that the radio will work.

Step Five:- Reprogram new Anti theft code into radio as per instruction manual.

WE finally found it on the compresson housing near the "S" suction , large hose connection.

Try opening your trunk with key.

Check the 1995 626 transmission fluid for a burnt smell. Check in front of the radiator, and insure that the transmission cooler fins are clean. Have a computer code check performed to see if any internal transmission codes show up.

the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy

My MX6 was just doing this on the way home. If I stepped on the gas, braked, or turned it would stop. The frequency of the knocking noise would increase with the speed, but seemed louder the slower I was going. The brakes were just done last week. Anyway, in my case the wheel lug nuts were loose, I could just unscrew them by hand! I will be calling the garage tomorrow to let them know.

Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor. Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this helps. Good luck.

In my experience, you'll want to start with the fluid level and condition check. Should be bright red and smell fresh. If it's brown, or smells burnt, change the fluid and see if that helps. If that's ok, then try to figure out what gear(s) it's slipping in. Questions like what gear(s), what temperature(s), and what speeds it does it will be VERY helpful to a transmission repair facility. answer check fluid first if it is burnt and dirty the damage has already been done used to have adjustments on bands in transmissions they are not built the same anymore either your transmission is wearing out or your torque converter is going out

If the overdrive's off light is on that means it's off. If it is off then the overdrive is on.

Could be a bad ignitor, those were notorious for overheating and cracking in years up to 1994. The ignitor is the trigger circuit inside the distributor, by the way.

I replaced distributor and problem was fixed

I had the same problem on a 1991 626. It also was a bad igniter that I believe is built into the distributor. The mechanic said to replace the dstributor, I did, and it's still running fine. (4years later)

Bill Smith

Sounds like the thermostat is not opening and needs to be replaced