the easiest way to change the timing belt is to remove the grill, center section of the radiator support, and the radiator and fans. Leave the airconditioner condesor there, it would be more difficult to remove. Once all that has been removed you then have to remove the blelts, the tensioner (completely) and the crack pully. then you have access to the timing chain cover, which you then remove and there it is. A tip when replacing the belt is to also replace the water pump since you already went through the trouble. I just did all this yesterday and the water pump cost 39.99 and belt was 35.00.Answer1. slow percausion 2. use a menual step by step 3.starting with cam pully 4.work your way in and out 5. ) AnswerNot to be rude, but if you have to ask, you need take it in.
A TB is a project for someone with a good mechanical aptitude (and most likely, a shop manual), it is not just a simple fix, like a bulb or radio, etc. If you do it wrong, you'll likely leak coolant, or worse, total the engine.
Most newer engines are 'interference engines' meaning a timing belt that breaks, slips or has some other sort of misalignment causes physical (costly) damage to the engine's internals.
Usually, it is the valves that get bent, which entails about a $750 repair (in addition to the cost of the belt repair). Worse, a piston or cylinder wall gets cracked, which usually means a new engine, that can become a $2000 expense real quick.
Dealers are expensive, usually 30% more than independent shops on a timing belt.
Find a good local independent shop and consult with them, you will likely spend about $150-$200 in parts, and another $300-$400 in labor. Not cheap, but a lot better then the alternative.
Not to be a prick.. but the dude (Mark) that answered above me most likely works for a mechanic shop. I have rebuilt 4 engines and have done it all by trial and error. Ask questions and/or grab a Chilton manual. The best way to save money is to do it yourself. Just keep an eye on what you are doing and be sure to mark what you disconnect so you don't forget where anything goes. EASY AS PIE!!
You can also check the plug that goes to the master window control inside the front driver side door panel. If that plug comes loose none of the windows will work because they are all wired through that plug for the window lock feature...
an "AIR INTAKE" is only a tube which redirects the air filter location. to make your own "intake" you can follow the throttle body, (which where the air filter will follow) remove all of the inlet tube, air box and filter. you can customize a tube that will come from the throttle body, and route to a lower place than the old air filter allowing colder air to be vaccummed into the tb. This will cause a high a/f ratio allowing more hp to be allowed. DO NOT WASTE $200 on an aftermarket TUBE. its only an extended air filter. THATS ITAnswerif its a 1993 or so it sould be on the driver side and goes from the headlight and up to the windshield area of the engine. or i you are looking for a whole one try a junkyard or a "pick-and-pull" type place, or an import car parts store. Answergo to www.protegegarage.com
I have a 1990 929S. I have never had a problem with the security system, at least not that I'm aware of. However, when I first bought it, the stereo didn't work for about the first month. People kept telling me to take it to the dealership. They wanted $50.00 to deal with it. Out of desparation to keep my hard earned money, I stuck a CD and a casette in at the same time. It has worked fine since.
It's where the lower hose meets the engine!! follow the upper radiator hose to the engine, and it is under a dome where the two meet.
It's about 2 inches by 2 inches black and there's a connecter usually white that connects to it.
If it is like the 93 Mazda 929 it is inside the car on the passenger side under the carpeted molding on under the dash opposite of the center console big silver box with three large connectors it is held in with 3 10 mm bolts
with a few wrenches
I don't know, but I may know where to look. www.alldata.com may be a good place. My local library has a subscription to this service, so for me, it was free. AND, I just went to my local Mazda dealership (Wednesday afternoon) for a fuel filter for my 1996 Protoge. The delaership printed a page from their computer based parts book which gives a detailed picture. Maybe your local dealership could do the same.....
Well, if you wait long enough you'll make a major mess of the braking system and possibly risk braking failure.
Nearly all pads have built-in wear indicators that make a squealing or screeching sound when the pads get too thin. If you don't have the pads changed they can wear down to the mountings, which will scrape nice deep grooves in the rotors. At that point you'll be looking at a full rebuild. That's big bucks.
Similarly, even if you change the pads, letting the rotors go too long will cause them to become "dished" as the surface wears away. As the rotors get thinner they'll heat up faster during stops which can cause a number of problems ranging from warping to brake fade. Again, if the rotors warp you'll be looking not only at replacing them but probably also having work done on the calipers, etc. due to uneven running.
Most but not all states require inspections at least once a year. Checking brakes should be part of the deal. If it's not, ask the tech guys to do a once-over. Believe me, it's not worth the potential savings to try to cut corners on one of the most important systems in your car.
pull all the plastice covers off the front of the engine there are bolts all over he plce so if it wont go look at where its stuck. take the belt tensioners off also to remove the covers. then pull the timing belt tensioner (its on the left side in the bottom above the harmonic balancer sometimes it easier to pull the idler pully first. then pull the harmonic balancer remove the old timing belt. then pull the 7 or 8 bolts off the water pump remove it then replace it in the oposite way. now the fun part. each cam gear has a notch for top dead center make sure they line up with there corresponding nic above each cam on the engine you may have to clean some grease off to find em but they are there. then very very very care fully feed the new belt on. now take the tensioner and get a big crank down c-clamp and compress the little needle thing, then put somthing like a sewing needle threw the holes to hold it down. reinstall it and the idler pully once the belt is fully set pull out your sewing needle and the belt is done. make sure everything sayed top dead center. then put the harmonic balancer back on. then the covers tesioners and distributor. b4 you put the distributor bck on pull the cap and make sure its set to fire on plug number 1. get it all back together fire it up adjust your timing to 12 degrees b4 top dead center tighten the distributor and your done.
wiper motor could be going bad
its located on the driverside kick panel ,the trunk fuse is the 10 amp in center of middle row
open your trunk and it is located below your speakers there is a silver access panel. Disconnect your battery. open your fuel cap to release preasure. Remove the access panel. disconnect the fuel and return lines. disconnect the power connector and ground. remove the small screws (about 8 or 9). lift up and out. you will see the pump and the rest is EZ to figure out Hope that helps.
I have a 1993 929. My husband just changed the transmission fluid in it. He said you have to completely drop the transmission and make sure the you replace the filter also. Then put the transmission back up and fill it with fluid. Mine took app. 6 quarts. ,Jennifer
Actually you do not have to remove the transmission, their should be a drain plug on the side of the transmission pan, if not you can loosen the transmission pan, which should have between 8 to 12 bolts on, you can change your tranny fluid, and filter from there and replace a new gasket. No need in dropping your transmission. Your getting into more head ache than you need. I Jennifer.
I don't know about a 1993 but my 1990 929 takes ATF Dexron II for the power steering - it's transmission fluid.
If you don't know, look under your hood, there should be a diagram of everything that your car needs. or takes
You don,t disconnect the computer on any car to adjust base timing. That,s what runs the car, you disconnect spark advance and that varies according to make and model. Take note if your car does not have a distributer and it,s a coil pack you can not adjust base timing that is done by the computer only. If your car has a distributer I would contact a dealer or get a Chiltons manual on how to set base timing. I could not tell you how to disconnect the advance on your car not formilar with your distributer
On most cars the thermostat is on the top hose, but not this one. Find the bottom large hose and trace it up, there you will find three bolts to remove the lower cup that holds the thermostat. Be carfull because the uperhose has water in it, and your working right below it.
Son has a 1983 929 wagon. Fuse box on it is situated driver's side kick panel about 300mm from floor. Black box anout 100mm square.
If you look at the radio/cassette part (the separate CD part below as well) you'll notice two little indents on each side. (They may be covered with little rubber plugs.) There's an inexpensive tool, that looks like a tiny metal u-shaped wicket, that inserts into the small indents and pops the unit. The radio removal tool is sometimes listed as a Ford part. They are commonly called DIN removal tool.
You will need to remove the #2 Phillips screw on the back of the radio before using the tool.
Most people insert DIN removal tools too deep and can actually bend the spring the wrong way causing the radio to be locked into place. Insert the din removal tools slowly until you feel the springs and a slight click where the tools pop into place. Spread the tools outward (away from each other) only about 3/4 of an inch, then pull. The radio should slide out of the compartment. Disconnect the 2 harness plugs, antenna plug, and steering wheel control plug.
IMPORTANT: The 1992-95 Mazda 929 radio has a theft-deterant feature that disables the radio when it is removed. When it is reinserted you have to type in the four digit code to reactivate. If the wrong code is put in three times it permanently disables the unit. You need to know this four digit code BEFORE removing the unit. If you do not know the code , check your owners manual on how to input a four digit code of your choosing before taking out the unit.
I own a 1991 Mazda 929 and recently faced the same dilemma. The upper hose is a 'no-brainer' on mine because it is a simple bend located high on the firewall that continues to the left hand side of the engine. The lower hose drops down from its connection, disappearing beneath the exhaust manifold in the direction of the right hand side of the engine. I found that the only way to access it was from beneath the car. By removing the engine starter there is just enough room to reach the hose at its connection point on the engine block behind the motor mount. Good Luck!
in the back where the speakers are you have to take out the pannel covering the speakers it snaps out then you should see the screws.Then in the front doors remove the screw in the pocket you use to close the door and there is also one behind the handle to open the door there is a square piece that snaps out and that is covering that screw. then tou have to remove the door panel by snapping it out of place and lifting up this might be difficult.once again you should see the screws last but not least GOOD LUCK its a pain it took me so long to get this done but its well worth it. the hardest part is taking this car apart
The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank however to gain access you must remove the back seat and if you have any kind of radio equipment on the little shelf back there you will need to remove that as well on top of that shelf there is a plate to gain access to the fuel pump it is a tight spot but works best by removing the seat.
Not getting fuel or spark?
Hi Its located under the timing belt cover......better plan on replacing the timing bet too
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