there really is no fuel tank pressure sensor, there is a fuel pressure regulator though. it is located on the end of the fuel rail. 2 bolts and 1 vaccuum line and it is off. Actually there is something called a fuel tank pressure sensor. It's located on the fuel pump assembly which you access from an access plate located under the back seat on the passenger side. It has a hose and an electrical connector and a nut that you remove to pull out the sensor. good luck, they're not cheap. A little over 200 bucks . I know because I need one for mine. what he is talking about is a fuel purge, helps stop air from being sucked up fuel line thru pump, in a way i guess it does "regulate pressure" but that it not its design.
They're under the valve cover on top of the motor. You will have to dig to get to them.
They're straight down, under the black cap and between the two cam halves, like on any other DOCH engine. You have to remove the throttle body intake hose from the air box, disconnect the throttle linkage, remove the black cover, then remove the coil packs. You'll also need at least a 6" extension on your spark plug socket. Make sure it has the rubber ring to grasp the spark plug.
This isn't a hard job once you remove the top intake tube leading into the throttle body. You can reuse the throttle body gasket. It's metal, so don't throw it away or worry about buying a new one.
http://www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm. .this should do it.. copy& paste it..
mechanically set the timing as follows, 2 cams must be set at 12:00 the crank set at TDC at marks at about 11:00 to 12:00 electronically the base timing is computer controlled and cannot be adjusted, BUT ... say if idle speed is to high then make sure a/c is off,make sure there are no large loads on engine where as the computer is compensating for that.Check for air intake leaks,check for rich condition that the computer is trying to compensate for. your base idle speed on sporatge should be between 770-870.So if idle speed is ok then check your camshaft position sensor,crankshaft position sensor,and of course wiring to ECM. finally your degrees of BTDC @ idle should be 0-12.
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have you checked the gears in the final drive of the gear box and the sensor. (if it is electric) they are made from plastic in my 20 years experience i have seen this problem many times. (garage owner and mechanic).
needing to know how to do the time belt for a two wheel drive kia sportage.
Go to your local library. They sometimes have auto repair manuals.
http://www.kia.ca/owners_manuals.asp?lang=en Or for a shop/repair manual: http://www.kiatechinfo.com/viewer/default.asp?group=shop (This is applicable to every Kia vehicle)
usually this is caused by glow plugs not getting any power. i am rusty on diesels, so this might not be correct, also check fuel filter and or water seperator filter.
The horn is located behind the right side inner fender just behind the bumper, one bolt holds the horn in place. Remove the plastic plugs and pull the inner fender plastic aside then you can get to the horn, this in on a 1995 sportage.
I have a 2000 sportage 4x4 and somtimes my horn starts honking and the sidemarkers start blinking. it is the alarm system. mien is caused by the pasenger door lock not locking all the way. I just diconectied the horn's. I really dont know how to fix the problem exept by changing the locking mechinasem
hello, to remove the brake rotors on a 2001, 1. jack and remove wheels; 2. there are two large bolts that hold the entire brake caliper on; on a 2001 they are 19mm. Get a cheater bar on it because they are well-torqued. 3. step #2 will allow you to remove the caliper assembly and tie it out of the way. 4. you will now find two large Phillips (cross tip) screws hold the rotor on...remove them. 5. get the WD40 and spray the base of the lugs and around the bearing housing. 6. time for a big rubber mallet and you can pry gently while hitting...it will likely be rusted in place...don't loose patience it may take at little time to break it free.
hope it helps. Joe
FTI. the screws you removed in 4 are used to pop the rotor loose. Instead of prying and using a mallet, you will notice two threaded screw holes in the rotor (not the ones you took the screws out of. If you screw the screws your removed into these holes they will bottom against the flange on the other side of the rotor. Tighten them both, and the force will pop the rotor loose. This works like a charm and you don't have to pound on your bearing housing.
It screws into the top of the air cleaner assembly near the braket for the mass air flow sensor.
Unless you are an able mechanic do not attempt this.The timimg belt drives the water pump.
Set the engine on top dead center. Align the timing marks, use whiteout to mark their position Remove the fan belt and fan. Remove the top radiator hose. Remove the thermostat housing assembly. Remone the fan belt bracket. Remove the timing cover. Remove the two camshaft pulleys. Remove the back plate of the timing cover. You can now get to the water pump.
you shouldn't have to bother the camshaft pulleys , having the timing belt drive the pump wouldn't make the job any haqrder
It is emission related. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.Answer
turn on car to where the check engine light comes on, dont start, pump brakes 3 times then start. I have a kia.New Answer
I have a 2001 model Sportage, that has just started having this problem also (apart from engine rebuild, water pump, brake master cylinder and many trips on the back of a tow truck, it's been that many times it now knows it's own way onto the truck). When researching this on the net I also found another answer which relates to disconnecting the battery terminal, then reconnecting to see if light goes out (this worked for me me 1st day, now back on again, reason I came across your page) then the write up mentioned that he had to take his car to Kia and found that it was the oil pump, so as per his advise I will firstly try your method of brake pedal, if this is no fix I will take to Kia (AGAIN)to run on computer, anyone thinking of buying a Sportage, "DONT !!!!!!", I have even had to write to the head of Kia Australia to actually get a waranty claim made in the first year of owning.Further AnswerI tried the brake 3 times on my 2001 model, did nothing, but after a full investigation over all pipes and tubes, I found one of the tubes coming out of the charcoal canister (I assume anyway)that at the base was a very small crack, so yesterday I fixed the tube and reset the circuits by undoing battery for a few seconds as in previous answer supplied, and as yet no warning light is on, but going for a big drive today, so I will post results for anyone who is interested.
starter relay check that...If you can jump the starter motor directly and get the engine to fire up this tells us the starter and battery and engine management systems are intact. This leaves us with a possible bad ignition switch, or the mechanical key tumbler is NOT allowing ignition switch to reach full travel - OR - you can have faulty/loose/corroded wiring between ignition switch, to starter relay, the relay may be bad, or wiring from relay to starter solenoid and so on. Easiest test would be testing, while cranking, using a DMM (digital multimeter) set to D/C volts scale - the voltage at starter solenoid. You hear a click in dash so likely the relay is accepting signal from Ig Switch. So how many volts get to starter solenoid? If you get about battery voltage when cranking, you have a faulty starter solenoid. So then you'd replace the starter/solenoid assembly. If you get low voltage, say battery is at about 12.4V at rest and solenoid sees only 8.6V "without" engine cranking, you've got a bad relay or wiring. Let me know if you need more? :)Answerbefore you call a mechanic check all fuses my Kia did the same to me and the fuse looked ok if your not sure about a fuse change it it would be alot cheaper than calling one of them in AnswerThe information that you've given is inadequate to diagnose the problem.
You don't say if the starter actually turns, turns slowly, just clicks once, clicks a few times or does nothing. There are an awful lot of possibilities. Lights and rasio don't prove alot other than there's minimal juice in the battery.
Posiibilities? Basically everything!
If its still not going try and get some more info together, however - recommend taking it to a mechanic.
Had this problem myself... the fuel pump fuse was blown.
i know this will sound silly but first make sure the headlights themselves are not blown.you would be surprised how many Kia's come into my shop with headlights not working and all the headlights are blown. after that get a volt meter and disconnect the light and test to see if you have power , remember the dimmer switches are famous for cold solder joints and will also cause this problem.
sometimes you can pull up on the coushion and see 2 bolts one on each side some have plastic clips on each side pull them and it will release the seat the hardest ones are when you have to sit in the seat do this on each side, sit down and as hard as you can push back and pull up at the same time. good luck
it will choke and run like crap eventually what happpens to the EGr valves is they jus plug up ,exhaust gas recirculation valve you should get a check engine light,code po171,po174,or po401,po402. not neccessarily will run rough. sometimes will run fine but thrrough up check engine light for bank 1 to lean,etc..
n 98 to 2002 Kia Sportage models ( all equipped with the DOHC 16V 2.0 liter 4 cylinder motor ) these are the instructions for the timing belt replacement.
1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, don't worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom.
2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless.
3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be.
4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3.
5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on.
5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isn't turned over.
6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt.
7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry.
8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner.
9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6.
10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate.
11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6.
12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away.
I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need.
would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends.
you have to suck it out with a fluid removal tool. Jiffy lube or any good oil changing co. has one.
This is the same problem I am having on my 99 Sportage. I think it is a bad crank sensor or possible bad computer. That is why I posted my question, to see if someone else has had the same problem and had it fixed. Worst case we may have a bad wire. I checked all the ground on mine, all look good. I have it jumped to a fused wire with the relay in at this time, it runb and drives good but my gas mileage sucks. Hope we can figure this out soon.
Kia shares engineering designs with several mfg. Because of this, they do not publish drive trace info. Us ethe following options when setting Kia readiness: Early models (use Mazda drive trace): Pre-reqs: -clear codes, fuel fill between 15 and 85 %, all accessories off, cold start (prefer 8 hour cold soak engine between 68 and 86 deg. F) -start vehicle and idle for 5 min -rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 sec -rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 sec -idle engine for 20 sec with cooling fan stopped -accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed in high gear for 1 1/2 min -deccelerate to 15 mph, drive for 13 min at speeds ranging from 15-35 mph -maintain a steady 25 mph for 5o sec Late models: use Hyundai drive trace -cold start (undefined by mfg), fuel fill between 15 and 85%, codes cleared, elevation below 8,000 ft -Note start time. you will need it later. Drive 2 min at 35 mph -stop and idle car 1 min -drive at 45 mph for 10 min, keeping rpms between 2000-2400 -deccelerate to 35 mph. selecting second gear, accelerate engine to 4000 rpm, and lift off throttle for 10 sec -repeat last step four more times -drive at 55 mph until 16 min have passed since starting drive trace. If time since start exceeds 20 min, evaporative monitor will not run. -Stop and idle car 4 mintip in throttle every min to change idle state. There is a universal drive cycle that requires checking car repeatedly with obd II readiness tool, so you may want to leave that to your mechanic.
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