VW Jetta

Engine too cold. Possible causes: thermostat failure, air pocket within coolant system, malfunctioning temperature sensor. Normal operating temperature should be 202 degrees Fahrenheit.

Removing the headliner board from a 96 Nissan Sentra is not too complicated - 1st you remove the visors, hangers and anything else that attaches through the headliner and then you remove the headliner plastic trim. The board should fall free so it can be removed from the car through the front passenger door.

High Fuel Consumption Halious -Other problems are, severe drop in power, inability to accelerate, stalling out, & your wallet gets a lot lighter(Cheapest one we ever replaced at my shop was $298 at cost.) Despite the important sounding name it's easy to replace. It lies somewhere between the air filter & the throttle body buy a new one and compare it to parts you see along the air intake system(A lot of German cars like VW & Audi put them in the air filter box bolted to the top section that you lift off to see the air filter. Chevy likes to put them right in front of the throttle body. Usually prettty easy to find & work on.). A few bolts, & a couple wires. At least save yourself some money on labor costs. Note: Mass air flow sensors can be cleaned to restore performance in most cases without having to replace them. The hot wire variety can be cleaned with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, electrical contact cleaner, or aerosol cleaners specifically designed for Mass Airflow Sensors . NEVER use carburetor or throttle body cleaner as these are too harsh for the delicate platinum wires. There are many cleaning methods that can be found by an internet search. In rare cases, your car may have a Karman-Vortex type air sensor and these cannot be easily cleaned and are more often found on cars that are either turbocharged or supercharged. When your mass air flow sensor goes bad, it cannot react properly to changes in the air entering your engine, so it will provide either too little or too much gas for your airflow, causing issues such as hard starts, rough idle, sluggish throttle response, and pinging.

Cars beep when you lock and unlock it so people will know if it actually worked (locked or unlocked).

Yes , the 2.0 liter is an interfernce engine ( according to the Gates website , they make timing belts etc . )

The 2001 VW Volkswagen Jetta takes 21" drivers and 19" passenger side wiper blades. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only. Be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

The thermostat is located at the bottom of the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to the water pump and you will see it connects to the water pump outlet (molded plastic/cast alloy depending on year). The outlet is secured by two 10mm bolts. The thermostat sits inside the outlet. Have a fresh O-ring handy in case the old one is perished (a decent thermostat kit should come with O-rings).

try changing all the filters especially diesel filter It means the fuel is not being burnt fully or too much is being injected. common causes are plugged air and fuel filters and bad timing. sometimes worn injectors can cause this also. this is common on very high mileage cars.

It could be battery connection, discharged or faulty battery, faulty alternator or regulator, faulty starter or a loose and corroded connection on the starter.

24" drivers 19" passenger. Be sure to always lookup the exact part numbers for the brand of wipers you decide to buy to ensure not only correct lengths but also correct attachments. See related links below.

It is below the temperature controls/air con or climate control panel in the centre console. If you look at the bottom egde of the upright part of the centre console, just above the ashtray, you will see a piece of wood grain or alloy trim (depending on your model) about 1/2" high and about 6" long. This covers the OBD diagnostics port. Remove this by putting your fingers of one hand underneath and simply slide it back out toward you. Job done, To replace, just locate and push back in....simple as that. The OBD port is to the RHS of the area which has been uncovered, and is usually a dusky shade of pink/light purple. Hope this helps?

the spark plugs may be bad/or failing, and the engine is warm enough to sustain (SP?) itself and let it run at a ideal temprature..(mostly oil temp) affects running effectiveness == ANSWER== wish my vehicle only took 10 seconds to start, and there is nuthing wrong with my vehicle. but all vehicle take a little longer to start when cold. the "cough" is usually caused by the choke not working quite correctly modern cars are made to start without touching the gas pedal older cars you had to use gas pedal to engage automatic choke so if newer car cough is caused by excess gas in chamber keep foot off gas pedal hard habit to break i know,

Full Synthetic 5w-30

OIls which are liquid at Room temprature.

let me guess, your fiances car was either a suzuki, kia, or a Hyundai right? those vehicle's rear brake system are a bit different. They piston is slotted and designed to be TURNED and the PRESSED into place in the exact sequence. this can ONLY be done w/ a special tool, normally around $200, maybe $50 from a swap meet and it mediocer conditon. don't force it into place, it wont work.

The Check Engine light is on because the computer has detected a problem with the emissions control system. Unless you fix whatever has caused the computer to set a fault code, it will come right back on. Depending on the model year of your vehicle and weather it is an OBD1 or OBD2 system, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes may reset the light, especially on an 1995 and older OBD1 system. Rarely will this work on a OBD2 system. On an OBD2 and some OBD1 systems, you need a scan tool to reset the light. Take it to any auto parts store and see if they will scan the system for you, free of charge. Depending on your state, they may accommodate you. The code they find will help to determine what is wrong. If you purchase the repair parts from them, they may reset the light after you make the repair. One thing to do before any of this is to check your gas cap. A loose gas cap will set the light. If you find that it was loose, tighten it, (3 clicks). The computer will turn the light off after a few driving cycles if that was the problem. == my 2 cents == The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or �monitors� are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. To start testing for the check engine light, you�ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. == Answer == Before you do anything, go to Autozone and use their loan a tool program to chech out an OBD-II code reader. Follow the instructions on the box, or if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself (it's really easy), have one of the store employees do it for you. My check engine light came on this past winter, and it turned out that one side of the engine was too lean. I remember the light came on when I started the explorer on a particularly cold day. Anyway, once you reset it, it probably won't come back on unless there is something wrong with some component. == Answer == Take it to a garage and have them fix it is about the only way without "special tools". Otherwise: Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. That is not entirely correct. An o2 sensor will not trigger a trouble code just because it has reached a preselected mileage. If the trouble code indicates a faulty o2 sensor it generally can be confirmed that it is faulty or something causing the trouble code such as a broken wire. To say that the check engine light is for emission system only is incorrect as well. The cars computers monitor a variety of things such as the air fuel mixture. The O2 sensors monitor the exhaust to ensure the proper mixture is accomplished. If you have an O2 sensor that has failed the computer will set the check engine light and not allow the system to go into "closed loop". This is when the computer will monitor a number of sensors like the "throttle position sensor" the "O2 sensors" and allow the computer to adjust the air fuel mixture. If the check engine light is on the engine will run a predetermined program and not make adjustments to provide the best performance and fuel economy. I think the best thing is to find out what trouble code has set the check engine light with a scan tool or have a tech do it for you. If it is an emission code that may not rest, such as a loose gas cap, then clear the code and see if it resets. If it resets, find out why and repair it.

I am a locksmith in Maryland. It sounds like the linkage that goes from your outside and inside handles to the latch have come undone for some reason. OR the latch itself may be jammed for some reason. Did someone recently use a slim Jim on the car or maybe someone tried to break into it? Call around to local locksmiths and get a price. They can come out and get the door open for you with special tools that fit down in the door for just such a purpose. It may just be that the latch is stuck, or if more repairs are needed they can advise you and give you a price to repair it. Or you can get the door panel off from there and fix it yourself. Just opening the door should be a minimal charge about the same as a regular car opening. Different locksmiths charge different rates. Shop around. I had the same problem, The latch mechanism wraps itself around a pin to keep the door closed. The pole is protected by a plastic tube for a tigh fit. What has happpened is that that plastic is worn out and is causing the latch to remain stuck. First The manual says that the handle can be removed very easily by removing the plastic cover with a screwdriver, then remove one of the screws securing the handle to the door. Unfortunately, the second screw is located on the inside of the door which can't be removed because the door is shut and won't open. You will have to slide the handle toward the front of the vehicle and eventually breaking the handling assembly from the door. Once you have mangaged to remove the handle, you will notice a little metal plate, inside the door handle hole. That is the mechanism which the outside handle pushes down to open the door. It is probably seized...Spray lots of WD40 and with a hammer and flat screw driver, try knocking the assembly down. IF you look deeper into the hole, observe how the locking mechanism works, and make sure that the door is unlock. Just behind and below you will be able to observed the innsr handles operation, by functioning the indoor handle. Once you get the door open, check for the pin I told you about, spray more WD40 and replace the handle Good luck

(for injection engines only) too simple: just take a look at the petrol pump! it always make noise when you turn on the ignition key, like this: bzzzzzztttt...it stops then you turn on the car,but if it doesnt work;the car simply wont start! sooooo::::::: open the back door,pull off the carpet and locate the fuel tank,its at your right and there are some hoses and wires there...in fact there are 4 wires ( 2 thicker ones at both sides).The 2 thinnest are used for telling you how much fuel is in the tank and the 2 thickiest for making the fuel pump work.now, i dont remember very well which one is the ground but you gonna check like this(only if you dont have a 12v small battery with you): see the luggage cmpmnt light at your right? its on! take a 1 meter wire and connect it at the positive contact of the light , check it by touching very fast (not by too long) the car chassiss. if it will spark its the right one.now you gonna connect it to the one of the thickiest wires at the pump. (ATTENTION! be very careful , if you smell petrol vapours DONT continue! there is a big risk of BOOOM!!!)it should spark at one, and if you connect it at another it should make the pump work (bzzzzzzzztttt, remember?) if it will work you probably have a wiring , fuse or ECU problem... take a look at the pump fuse at the fuse box , if its ok ...well you have got a big problem to solve... if the pump will not work that means its gone ! you'll have to replace it ! dont bother 100 bucks! (for injection engines only) too simple: just take a look at the petrol pump! it always make noise when you turn on the ignition key, like this: bzzzzzztttt...it stops then you turn on the car,but if it doesnt work;the car simply wont start! sooooo::::::: open the back door,pull off the carpet and locate the fuel tank,its at your right and there are some hoses and wires there...in fact there are 4 wires ( 2 thicker ones at both sides).The 2 thinnest are used for telling you how much fuel is in the tank and the 2 thickiest for making the fuel pump work.now, i dont remember very well which one is the ground but you gonna check like this(only if you dont have a 12v small battery with you): see the luggage cmpmnt light at your right? its on! take a 1 meter wire and connect it at the positive contact of the light , check it by touching very fast (not by too long) the car chassiss. if it will spark its the right one.now you gonna connect it to the one of the thickiest wires at the pump. (ATTENTION! be very careful , if you smell petrol vapours DONT continue! there is a big risk of BOOOM!!!)it should spark at one, and if you connect it at another it should make the pump work (bzzzzzzzztttt, remember?) if it will work you probably have a wiring , fuse or ECU problem... take a look at the pump fuse at the fuse box , if its ok ...well you have got a big problem to solve... if the pump will not work that means its gone ! you'll have to replace it ! dont bother 100 bucks!

"Disconnect the negative terminal and push brake pedal for 30 seconds" worked great! One note: You must use actual key to unlock doors after battery disconnect to reset car alarm so car will start. I recomend getting the car checked out by a professional. And you never unhook the positive battery cable first, you always do the negative firstl. And sometimes when you do this it erases the computers memory. so take to a professional. If you HAVE TO, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Put your foot on the brake pedal for 30+ seconds. I tried the previous answer of removing the negative battery cable, and holding the brake pedal for 30 seconds and it WORKED!!! Just got back from the emissions test, and passed. THANKS!!! I got check engine light problem just happened few hours ago, my car is 1999 Mazda 626 ES, and I tried the previous answer of above- revmoving the negative cable as well. It REALLY WORKS. It saved my time & money ^^ [Apr 27, 2008] Just applied this method "disconnect the negative battery terminal. Put your foot on the brake pedal for 30+ seconds.", it just worked perfectly. Save me lots of worries and trouble to send the car to mechanics. Thanks so much to the one who posted this method. i just used removed the negative battery and stepped on the brake for 30 seconds on my 2000 626 es and it worked! saved $80 Just did wt u said and it really works...thanks a million Same thing works on a 2006 MX 5 Miata....light came on due to loose gas cap and I sure did not want to pay the dealer to reset the dang thing.....Advisable to check out why you have the light at AutoZone or most other parts houses before you reset the light. a car scanner can help you.

Just under 16 million new cars were sold in the US in 2004.

2009 VW Volkswagen Jetta tail light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement tail light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the tail light bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

To replace the radio antenna on the 1990 Jetta you simply unscrew it (counter-clockwise) and screw the new one clock-wise. If you are replacing antenna with off the shelf product You will probably have to remove the wheel, wheel well fender protector, to have access to the bolt for the antenna

The relay that handles the turn signals is separate from the relay that handles the hazards. Most likely you have a burned out turn signal relay. Most likely the relay is located in your fuse panel and is a very inexpensive item to replace. turn signals and hazards have separate flasher cans both look the same and are generally in the fuse box replace the hazard flasher can. they cost about 2 dollars at auto store HOUNDDAWG ADDS: There may be a lamp with one of the turn signal elements burned out. If one is burned out turn signals may not work even though the lamp appears to be working when the lights are on. Otherwise replace emergency flasher or possibly turn signal switch in steering wheel. gaffer0118 adds: I had the same problem on my 2003 Saturn L200. When I cycled the Hazard Signal/switch for about 30 seconds, both left and right turn signals once again worked!!

Disconnect the battery cables for 15 minutes. Then put the key in the ignition and turn it as if to start the motor, and hold it in that position for 30 seconds. (This resets the computer, codes, engine, everything.) When powering it back up and running the engine, it may run slightly rough for the first few minutes as the motor resets and re-samples all systems.

It took us a little detective work but here is what I found worked - not sure if it's best but it worked. 1. There is a plastic cover piece located between the battery casing and front of car (grill). It is the piece with 4 screws and a lightbulb picture on it. Unscrew screws. It is a 2 piece plastic cover. We removed it as one piece but you might only have to remove one piece. To separate the pieces�twist slightly and move one piece up and the other down. 2. Unscrew the large bolt on the middle-front of the battery casing. 3. There is a small metal piece that holds the battery down. Remove it. 4. Remove battery. 5. When removing battery, keep in mind that the back of the battery is being held down by a plastic lip piece. You will need to remember to slide the new battery under that lip when installing it. Also, snapping apart the plastic box that surrounds the battery was key for me. (Facing the vehicle: two tabs on the left side, rear wall of the box and a round hinge-type snap at the bottom rear on both sides of the box, and on the left side the Positive Cable tie.) After that, sliding the battery forward with a slight tilt was all it took to remove the battery.