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according to Bentley, it is number 21.

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You are probably unable to remove them because the caliper piston is pressing on the inside pad. You must NOT try to push the piston in, like your would in the front, with a C-clamp. Instead, you will find a 12mm bolt on the back of the caliper (unless someone has removed it). Take it out, and then you will find a recessed 4mm hex that requires an Allen wrench. This will back the caliper off and down to a flush position, allowing brake removal. There are several really good explanations of the entire process around the web.

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a small tank to hold extra water from the radiator. A hose links the two together

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With ignition off, hold right (trip reset) button

Turn ignition on

Still holding trip button turn left (clock) button to minutes (clockwise)

Release everything and turn off

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headlamp auto light control sensor maybe on the dash at center of your car

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The fuse box is located inside the dash usually drivers side. To access this fuse box open the driver side door view the dash from the side it is located behind a pull off plastic panel (no screws)normally just insert a medium size screwdriver inside one of the nootchs and gently pull out. you will find fuse box behind the panel. On my passat (2008) there is also a fuse box on the passenger side (Need to open the door to access the side of the dash). There is also a fuse box in the engine compartment (2 over each other) next to the battery compartment.

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The thermostat is taking long time to change. Is situated in right side of the engine (from front of vehicule). Just follow the big hose from the radiator and you will see the headbow. It's between the exaust manifold extension and the engine just below the throttle body. If you want to change it and make it easier, you will have to remove the throttle body (consist in 3 bolts). Once is done, just remove the headbow and that's it. (the job is approximately 1 hour and half for professionnal and more thant 3 hours for user).

http://car.justanswer.com/uploads/JHoop/2008-05-03_202404_Thermostat.pdf

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If you stand up that bike up oil will pass by the rings, and piston and possibly get into your oil filter depending if your intake valves are closed or open. Not like the good ole 2 strokes, these quads have become very advanced dont risk it....

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COOLING SYSTEM OF WHAT ???????????????????????

Most auto parts stores sell cooling flushing kits. Get one follow the directions and it should take the air out of the system. You must remember that your heater is part of the cooling system as well as the cooling for your transmission.

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The following has absolutely nothing to do with the question asked. Just someone blowing off steam.

First of all there is a lawsuit against dextrol and dexcool anti-freeze that the gm vehicles are using,it causes sludge in the radiator and heater core,and it disolves the intake manifols gaskets.. ! Put the heater control on hot ,so to open the lines to the heater core so it will drain out.. Then drain the system ,there is a small drain valve right under the radiator on the drivers side,drain ,take off the radiator cap,so it will drain faster,..rust and sludge should come out!! .you can close the valve and pour in a radiator flush ,sold at all parts stores,such as Prestone, etc.. or just put a garden hose in the radaitor cop opening .let it run for a couple of minutes,,if your ambitious take off the bottom radiator hose,and alot of water will come out of the block faster,Sometimes I will start my vehicle and let it idle while the engine is running,so the thermostat will open and allow water to go into the engine block...but don't let it overheat!! after about 15-20 minutes let everything drain out ..close the drain valve and leave the heater control on hot , refill the system with anti-freeze.....".Advance Auto Parts" has a replacement anti-freeze , use the one in the yellow gallon jug ,it says for "use in all systems" ...Don,t put that Drexcool or Drextrol back in !!!! I even had my venture drained and refilled at my local Chevy dealer,in the past .it still had that sludge in it..I took it right home and drained out their anti-freeze, and refilled it with Advance Auto Parts brand.Van runs great ..doesn't overheat ...and I have NO Sludge !!! P.S. gp to Google and type in Drexcool, or Drextrol....You'll see !!!

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The fumes are most likely coming from an exhaust leak. The leak could be at the converter, or somewhere else in the exhaust system.

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the bulbs are held by a round carrier inside that comes out when you twist it about 90 degrees ccw. The lenses are bolted in from behind. You should be able to reach back on either side of the car in the rearmost areas such as where the jack is held on the left and where the rear A/C is on the right side on late models at least. How do you remove front headlight on a 2000 series T4 shortnose

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I wouldn't disconnect the battery, you'll have to reset a lot of electronics - radio code, auto up windows, auto close sunroof, seat memory settings, etc. I simply removed my brake pad wear sensors when I replaced my front brake pads. I then had to connect a piece of paper clip to close the circuit on the wire leads quick connect assembly, holding it in place with electrical tape. No more aggrivating break pad wear indicator light....

I would think that it is just a stored code. Try disconnecting the positive battery cable from the battery for 10 seconds with the key switch on but the engine not running. This should reset the computer. If the light comes back on, the sensor may need replacement.

If you mean the "Check Brake light" , message that comes in the display , this is normal. even if you change the pads , it will not go. this is a German way to show you : please safety is very important : everytime you want to use your car check the break lights if they are ok.

what you have to do is only push the brake ,and the alarm will go.I learned this from the handbook provided with the car.

for the sensor , better change it.

Yes you have to replace the worn pad sensor to get the Brake Wear Indicator Light to go off. The pad sensor will wear away and trigger the light. It will go off onnce you replace them. Please keep in mind that this is the Brake Wear Sensor Light and not the Brake System Warning Light. The Brake Warning Light will come on if there are Hydrualic Pressure related problems.

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late 1992

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Steering column, basically between your knees when you are sitting in the driver's seat

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1-2-4-5-3 www.sstune.com

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Air in the system. Bleed the cooling system and remove any trapped air pockets.

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http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d8010b6d6.jpg here is the diagram from autozone http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d8010b6d6.jpg here is the diagram from autozone

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Not quite the same as the front pads as has been suggested.

Chock wheels, put into gear and take off handbrake.

Loosen wheelnuts on first wheel, jack up the car and secure with axle stands and make sure car is not going anywhere.

You have to remove the handbrake from the caliper. This involves removing the spring-clip from the handbrake mounting bolt and then (if necessary, unbolt the mounting bracket) and remove the cable from the mount and then free the cable from the linkage on the caliper.

Undo the lower guide bolt and swing up the caliper - it will hold itself up by its own weight, (Note that if you do remove both guide bolts for some reason as with the front brake, NEVER let it dangle on the hose as this could cause damage which may lead to hose/joint failure later with obvious results!)

Depending on the type fitted, the piston may simply be pushed back for most of the way as with a front piston (or) and must then be wound back with a wind back tool or pair of long nose pliers to reset the parking brake. (There are a couple of notches in the piston which you use as leverage to rotate the piston carefully until it is fully home, taking care not to damage seals.

Slide out the pads as normal, check discs and apply copper grease to the usual places (where backs of pads touch shims and calipers) taking great care not to get any grease on the friction surfaces or discs and slip in new pads.

Drop caliper back into place (on some versions there is a peg which must be aligned with the piston by rotating it) and replace guide bolt (ideally using a drop of thread locking compound) and tighten to the correct torque.

Replace handbrake assembly.

Replace wheel and repeat on other side.

When finished apply handbrake repeatedly and then footbrake repeatedly to reset the brakes.

Test brakes before relying on them.

It is a good idea to give them a quick check a week or so later to check nothing is dropping off because it was not tightened properly.

Hope this is useful as they are quite awkward if you are not used to them.