Here is advice for finding the thermostat: * Follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine and there is a housing that houses the thermostat. Take it off and when you reinstall the thermostsat, make sure the spring goes toward the engine. * The thermostat is located on the motor block under the three bolt flang that the top rediator hose connects to. Remove the three 10MM bolts and the thermostat can be removed for replacement. * 1. Remove the air cleaner air duct from the throttle body and air cleaner. * 2. Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the thermostat housing. The housing is located at the front of the intake manifold. * 3. Loosen the hose clamp, then detach the hose from the fitting. This can be difficult. If it's stuck, grasp with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist to break the seal. Then pull it off. * 4. Remove the bolts and detach the housing cover. Be prepared some coolant may leak out as the gasket seal is broken. Remove the thermostat. * 5. Install the new o-ring onto the thermostat (no gasket is needed) and install the thermostat into the intake manifold with the spring side pointing toward the engine. * 6. Make sure the air release valve is in the up 12 o'clock position. Install housing cover and bolts. Reattach the hose fitting and tighten the hose clamp. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, and burp the system.
Red, 5 year, HOAT type.
it can be many stuff but in your place i would check first the coolant level and the thermostat
Pipe have a hole
because when a car is on to long it will shut off because it was on to long
Nothing will happen if you drain the cooling system and replace the coolant.
most likely you need to replace te heater core.generally i if the leak is on engine you wont smell it in the car
99.9% of all car in the world use one or another type of antifreeze.
It will not hurt anything, There's more water and antifreeze then there is wiper fluid and it will mix right up with everything, Don't worry
Assuming that you've already vaunted the head gasket and the motor is together you can simply remove the plug(s) and turn the engine over. Don't let it start or run but once it turns over a couple of times the coolant will be pushed out during the compression stage.
Consider if it is engine oil or transmission oil or power steering oil. Transmission oil or power steering oil would indicate a bad radiator. Engine oil could be a bad radiator also if the radiator includes an engine oil cooler ("extra cooling") but usually indicates an intake or head gasket leaking.Answer
Your symptoms are indicating a possible head gasket problem. If you have oil in the water, you may have water in the oil. Pull out the dipstick or take off the oil fill cap and look for the unusual condition of FOAMY oil. You may also have exhaust gas in the water which can also be checked by a mechanic. Be prepared for the expense of a head gasket or possible engine replacement.answer
if you have oil in coolant, you have a cracked head or a cracked block your mechanic will do a compression test to determine what it is either way it is not cheap fix unless you can do it yourself
you may have a blown head gasket, or cracked head , or cracked block
It could be a number of things listed above. However I had this issue with my 3.1 V6 GM engine. I had oil in the coolant, and it turned out to be a failed Intake Manifold Gasket. It is best to take it to a repair shop and let a professional handle it unless you are mechanically inclined. If it is an Intake Manifold Gasket your looking at a ball park figure between 400 to 900 dollars. Think of it this way, would it be more beneficial to fix your current car? Or to go and put a down payment on a new one and get stuck with payments for the next 5 years?
its a BLOWN HEAD GASKET, OR A CRACKED HEAD or CRACKED BLOCK one of the three.....
It seems everyone assumes that you are talking about a gasoline engine which for the most part they would be right: radiator oil/trans-fluid internal cooler, intake leak or head gasket. If you are talking about a diesel engine, could also be oil cooler o-rings, cylinder liner o-rings, failed e.g.r. cooler, etc.
i think its funny that i have that same problem with my 3.1 v6 gm motor and my friends grandmom had the same problem lol and there is oil in my reservoir alott and if u want to know if u bad head gaskets u wont be able to see people behind u because ull be pouring white smoke out of ur exhaust, and whoever said water is heavier then oil is retarted its less dense then water yes but not heavier its hard to tell what the exact problem is so first things first id do the intake manifold gasket one because the part is cheap and to its not exactly ripping ur motor apart
yes lets tell this person to fix there exhaust manifold because that takes care of his oil & water problem. the person that feels not pulling an engine apart, how do u fix a a hungry stomach. now this person has oil in the water not an exhaut minifold problem geeezzzz some people.....
How Much Coolant?
Since there are so many variables - year of car, engine size, etc. it is best to refer to the Owners Manual for your specific car to determine cooling system refill capacity.
See "Related Questions" below.
If you are environmentally concerned then you need to take it to a repair shop that has a flushing machine. If not, any parts house has the chemicals. Just follow the directions on the container.
Purchase a Prestone flush kit, a container of radiator flush, and new antifreeze at a automotive parts store. There are directions on the flush kit package. What you will be doing is adding the chemical to your cooling sytem then inserting a flush tee into a heater hose and back flushing the system using your garden hose. Works very good.
To let the coolant out:
First, take off the black plastic guard underneath the front of the car. It's being held in place by a bunch of small screws.
After removing the plastic cover, you should be able to see the radiator, and at the bottom corner of the radiator on driver's side, you'll see a white plug/nut. I used a 19mm key for that.
The plastic screw does not come completely off, just unscrews far enough to let all the coolant out.
To let all the coolant out, your engine should be cool. Take the top off the coolant reservoir, place a bucket under the car and unscrew that white plug.
At this point, either fill it back up with coolant or follow the directions on the bottle of coolant flush you bought.
The easiest stress free way is to go to Wal-Mart and get a Flush Kit that hooks up to your garden hose.
Buy a flushing kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts store comes with instructions, fitting, and adaptors.
back flushing is old country... if she's plugged replace her.
There is a small white plug underneath the radiator. If you're looking at the car from the front, it's on the right. Unscrew it (hopefully you do it when its cold) and let it drain. From there, you put a hose in the reservoir and let it run through the system for a few minutes, keeping the white plug off. Then shut off the hose, put the white cap back on, and put in the right quantity of regular antifreeze.
Be prepared to bleed trapped air from the car's cabin heater system - you'll know you need to do that if the car's heater fan doesn't blow hot air after the engine has reached its normal running temperature!
How to Backflush Cooling Systems: check the "Related link" below.
This happened to us on our Toyota. We had to replace the Thermostat. But make sure you follow the directions carefully b/c if it is not put in a certain way it will not work properly.
What is your coolant level? If it isn't full, make it full.
The thermostat may be stuck open. It is supposed to close when the temp falls below normal.
Outside temperature is a factor. In extreme cold, the radiator will cool much quicker.
Bad head gasket. If the head gasket is weak, it may allow engine coolant to seap into a cylinder and be thrown out through the exhaust. The engine may operate normally but there would more than likely be little or no heat and you would see white smoke coming from your tail pipe.. alot of smoke. (had this happen before).
All the other answers could cause it. Also not mixing the proper ratio of water to anti-freeze or using straight anti-freeze can cause it.
This is a good question and some of the answers are good, however i don't agree with using straight anti-freeze. I perfer to use straight anti-freeze and that's all we use at the radiator shop that i have worked at for the past 10 years. I think the biggest answer that's been over looked it that your heater core could be plugged up. This is usually easy to diganose. If the engine is up to temperature BOTH hoses going to it should be hot to the touch. If one is cold and the other is hot, your heater core is plugged up. The easiest way to fix this yourself is to go to a car wash that has a wand that u can use. remove both the hoses that go to the heater core and "flush" it out both ways with the wand. Be care full cause to much pressure can make the heater core leak. As far as the thermostat being stuck shut that problem that's easy to diganose also. If the engine is up to temperature the top and bottom radiator hoses should be hot to the touch. If one is cold and the other is hot then there is not proper anti-freeze flow and you need to replace the thermostat.
all good answers : also make sure your radiator cap is sealing if not most heat will escape as engine is running..
Possibilities include: a thermostat that has failed in the open position, low coolant level, air trapped in the coolant system, and a clooged or bad heater core. If your thermostat and coolant level are fine, and you don't have anitfreeze coming out of your cabin heater vents ( this indicates a leaking heater core) or dripping on the floor, I would try flushing out the heater core with a simple old garden hose. It worked like a charm for my mothers car. Keep up with coolant flushes to keep the system clean of dirt and corrosion.
all very good answers!!!, you have to remember that also if you have a bad thermostat that ( all ) of your emission devices they too will not operate the proper way, so as far as if your thermostat goes if it is bad not only no heat but bad operating emission devices, i learned that the hard way... .
The leaks could start from anywhere due to wind blowing through the engine compartment while driving. Try to trace the source and identify whether it is oil (gold/brown color), or tranny fluid (usually dark red).
head gasket? that's the top end..oil pan is probably it..either the gasket is pinched, the bolt isn't tight..or one of your seals is bad
If its oil its either gold or black and like above probably the oil pan. Transmission fluid is generally red.
A very simplistic way to determine what the fluid is that is leaking, is to dab a small amount on the end of your finger and taste it. All four of the most common fluids (oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze) have a very distinct taste and are completely different from each other.
that doesn't induce carcinogens:
Even easier way to identify fluid without ingesting it is to simply park over a piece of paper or cardboard. You can also use a white paper towel and dab it off the ground to get a decent idea what the fluid might be.
Head gaskets usually don't leak alot of oil, normally they start dumping antifreeze into the cylinders when failing. Valve covers (the part just above the head is the likely culprit there). Most higher mileage cars with oil leaks are typically the rear main seal on the crank that is failing. It is sometimes costly and others not so bad depending on the vehicles.ANSWER
LOOK AT THE COLOR OF THE OIL IF IT IS REDISH COLOR ITS TRANSMITION IF BLACK ITS FROM YOUR HEAD GASGET AND THE BEST THING TO USE WOULD BE ORGANIC SEALER UNTIL YOU HAVE ENOUGH TO COMPLETELY FIX THE PROPLEM
Could be either green or red. Red 5 year, HOAT type is what the service manual calls for.
Could be either green or red. Red 5 year, HOAT type is what the service manual calls for.
I have a 1996 Jimmy and recently replaced the thermostat. I know the raditor drain plug is not too far under the coolant recovery tank, if not that, you may simply have a hole in the tank. From what I've heard, I would use caution using stop leak products, but I am far from an expert. The question is--- is it leaking or just always low on fluid. A leak in the tank is possible but another possibility is the head gasket is allowing compustion pressure to get into the cooling system and blowing it out---check to see if there are bubbles inside the tank when the engine is running ---a sure sign the latter is happening. Jeep recovery tanks often have cracks and leak where the hoses atttach.
The heater core is cracked. You may also be smelling a sweet sort of smell when you turn on the heat and the car is running hot. That sweet smell comes from the anitfreeze when it burns.
I have a 1998 ford Expedition and I smell antifreeze inside the truck. also antifreeze leaking around the passenger side of motor outside..... I can see a mist coming out of the ac vents.... could it be bad heater core and is it easy to fix or do you have step by step removal/installation instructions? please help
Your heater core is probably cracked. There is alot of work to get to the core. You have to remove the front dash board.
Sensor is located under the thermostat housing. Frequent problem with the Olds IntrigueAnswerThe sensor for this vehicle is built in to the coolant reservoir. So just swap out the sensor? Not on this vehicle; the sensor isn't sold as a separate unit (darn it). You must purchase a new coolant reservoir, which includes a built in sensor. Multiple internet suppliers sell these reservoirs for $70 (including shipping).
How is your heat? Overheating can cause damage generally to head gasket, cylinder head or thermostat. See other posts regarding headgaskets in this forum. answer you can damage whole engine thru overheating but if u had no coolant leak when overheating occurred, u need to check water pump and thermostat in engine
Heater core is possible, coolant could be leaking externally onto engine and giving off that smell. Ruptured, cracked or leaking bypass hose; Ruptured, cracked or leaking heater hose; Worn or damaged radiator cap; Rusted, corroded, or damaged radiator may be leaking antifreeze/coolant; Loose, damaged, or faulty radiator drain plug; Worn or damaged cooling fan motor or circuit; Thermostat stuck closed; Cracked or leaking water outlet/hose; Damaged, worn or leaking water pump; Leaking or defective heater control valve; Freeze plugs are cracked or leaking. to smell burning anti freeze it would need to be leaking onto engine. most likely a small leak in a coolant hose somewhere, and even if it is heater core , it is sure not going to cost 500 bucks a heater core doesnt even cost 100 bucks to buy and they are easy to install
The world wide web (internet) is most likely the best and the cheapest place to find them.
Try visiting modeling websites and hobby websites.
One of the least expensive hobby web-sites is hobbylinc.com, they have the plastic models and the slot cars at discounted prices.
First check the water level. If the water level is low or very low, you may have air in the radiator. If you have a small leak, you will have enough water to cool the engine but not enough to heat the heater core. Adding water to the radiator may not be enough. Air in the heater core equals no hot air in the cabin. This problem is so bad in some engine configurations that some cars go as far as to actually have a 'bleeder' at the front of the engine, by the upper radiator hose/thermostat housing (Dodge, BMW, etc.). The heat selector lever/ switch in the cabin may be defective (electrical) and may not open the hot water valve enough, or even be disconnected (mechanical). Some (Ford and foreign cars) use vacuum to operate the valve and those lines may be cracked, worn, pinched or just leaking. You could also have a clogged heater core. These are 3 possible items you could start with, in that order. The thermostat could be at fault, but this is a give away. If the thermostat is stuck open or missing and you drive the car for a distance, the engine will take a while to warm up then overheat, and the cabin heat will follow the engine temperature. If the engine overheats, you need to take care of that motor more than worry about the heat in the cabin. As you said, you're not asking what to do with your overheating car. You would have taken care of that motor by now and taken care of your heater problem with it.
There are several reasons for your heater to blow cold air, the heater belnd door being stuck, no thermostat, low coolant, diagnosis is key.
If you have a 3.1 V6, you may need to bleed the coolant system. In front of the engine passenger side, you have a bleeder screw, with the engine off, surge tank cap off, open the valve until coolant flows smoothly, close the valve, check coolant, add if needed.
it's a $5.00 thermastat The problem could also be low coolant level. If the coolant gets too low it will not pass through the heater core and therefore will not heat the cabin air.
You may need to have your heater box inspected. It is possible for the flapper to be jammed or broken. It is a big fix so make sure to check coolant levels and leaks as well.
Copied from the "Related Question" below, written by DustedDisgusted:
Is the coolant 'fresh' - still has most of the original color (green, yellow)
Note: One symptom of a leaking head gasket is "milky" looking coolant ?
* Thermostat may have stuck closed
* Cooling system blockage - flush it
* Water pump -
* Metal water pump impellers are prone to rusting away if the coolant hasn't been changed often enough.
* Plastic/nylon impellers tend to wear away, or even break (ala original Ford Contours)
Turn on the a/c and the fan should come on immediately (you could possibly have a bad pressure switch in the a/c system that would keep the fan from coming on, but that's unlikely)
The best way to check for lack of flow is to remove the radiator hoses and run water through it, comparing inlet volume/time to outlet volume/time.
One test is to get a smog test station to check for HC's (hydro-carbons) in the cooling system by removing some coolant and sticking the "sniffer" in the radiator neck while in manual gas reading mode. there should be no hc's present. any reading warrants removing the heads for further diagnosis.
Other ideas?There are many possible causes for over heating.
Does the engine cooling fan come on at 230 degrees and turn off at 190 degrees? You could have a bad cooling fan, relay or sensor problem. If all of these check out you need to check for leaks and repair them. Also a stuck thermostat can be the bad apple.
There was a recall on this car for problems with the cooling system, so the first thing to do is check to see if the recall was performed. Also, there was a TSB, number 01-11-6 dated 06/11/01 addressing this problem. It involved, among a number of other things, replacing the water pump with a modified water pump. The new water pump is part number 1F1Z-8501-AA.In addition, I would replace the serpentine belt with Ford part number F7PZ-8620-AB since there was a problem with the serpentine belt slipping.
If, after all this is done and it still overheats, the freeze plugs may have to come
out to inspect the block water passages for obstructions.
Engine overheats when a car or truck overheats idling, in town, on the highway, while towing, etc. it is important to find out the reason to prevent engine damage.
First, with the engine cold, make sure the radiator is full of coolant; if it is low, fill it and keep the radiator cap off while the engine idles to insure all air is bled out of the system.
Check the coolant level daily; if the coolant goes down without visible leaks, it may be a head gasket starting to leak which will also cause the heater to blow cold air due to the lack of available coolant.
If the coolant stays full, but the car continues to overheat, the next step is to replace the thermostat in the engine and flush the cooling system if that has not been done over the last few years.Buy a thermostat at a parts store and a PRESTONE flush kit which has excellent directions on the package.
After completing these steps and the vehicle still overheats, have your cooling fan sensor/switch ( if equipped)checked out to insure it is coming on.
Water pumps are seldom the cause as they are mechanical and will continue to work until their bearings give out.
Finally, the radiator itself is often the problem as it tends to build up corrosion internally which prevents it from transferring engine heat to the coolant. Remove it and have it 're-cored'.
One of these steps will solve the problem.
In addition to this comprehensive round-up, I would suggest that water pumps can fail without the bearings going out. The impeller can wear and/or break loose from the shaft.
See "Related Questions" below for more
You should service the cooling system. Flush the radiator, replace the thermostat, install a 50/50 mix of new coolant, bleed the system, verify that the cooling fan/fans are working properly.
Thermostat stuck closed or the water pump has plastic impeller that broke. When my 97 sable water pump failed as above, it would be okay idling, but overheat when revved up or driven any.
check the coolant temp sensor, and make sure the fans are going if they are electric.The thermostat could be the problem. If the thermostat is not functioning, which happened to me on a long distance trip, the temp gauge in the car will not show any increase in temp. Sooner or later, like when you stop at Burger King, you will notice your car is overheating, coolant is pouring out onto the pavement, you are astounded since your temp gauge shows the engine temp is normal. What happens when the thermostat malfunctions is that it won't open up, allowing the cooling fluid to enter the engine, thus causing overheating. Good news is the thermostat is a cheap part, you can get it replaced for an hour's work of a mechanic, or if you are handy, you can replace it yourself. Check the rubber hose that goes to the engine from the radiator to see if it needs to be replaced, replace it at the same time (replace it if its cracking or very old).In my case, I was in a location that I could not get a new thermostat, so the mechanic took out the faulty one, urging me to get a new one soon and have it installed. I did that, and all seems to be well. The deal is that the thermostat keeps the engine temp in synch with all the electronics. You can drive it without the thermostat for a while, which just means that the cooling fluid goes right into the engine immediately instead of being controlled by the little thermostat (basically a gate that opens when a certain temp is reached). However for optimum performance, you should have the thermostat on there. But in an emergency, ie no part available, you can run without it.
Check the cooling system. Does it have enough antifreeze? Is it leaking any? If so, check the hoses and radiator. If that's okay, it could very well be the thermostat. If it gets stuck closed no coolant gets circulates. It's an easy fix. Just don't buy one from an autoparts store... buy a motocraft (ford) part. The aftermarket ones don't really fit like they should.
Make certain that the water pump is working. Replace your thermostat, it's probably stuck closed. If you follow the upper radiator hose out of the radiator, it will end in the thermostat housing. Take it off and you will find the thermostat inside. Note the orientation of the thermostat before you take it out so you know which direction to put the new on in.-Jesse
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