THE BELT COULD HAVE BEEN WET OR OILY . CHECK THIS OUT BY SRAYING WATER ON IT WHILE SOMEONE TRYS TO STEER . CHECK FOR GLAZING,CRACKS AND TENSION. .Another possibilityThe above answer is correct and the first step to undertake. If this fails and the problem persists, you could have a pump problem. Possibilities are that the relief valve stick intermittently in the open position, a very worn cam and rotor assembly or a broken shaft.
follow the top hose off the raddiator back to the engine block there shoukd be a houseing with two or three screws it is under here The thermostat on the 1994 and later 2.3L and 2.4L (Quad 4)engines is located above the radiator outlet pipe in the water pump cover which can be reached from under the vehicle on the passenger side. Note: The bolts are accessible from the top of the engine between the no. 2 and 3 exhaust manifold runners. It may be necessary to remove the engine to transaxle support brace to facilitate removal of the radiator outlet pipe. On all other engines the thermostat is located in the coolant outlet housing on the cylinder head. Some 2.0L OHC and 2.5L OHV 4cylinder engines are equipped with a drop-in style thermostat located in a stamped steel housing mounted on the cylinder head. These models can be identified by a large cap that seals the thermostat housing.
Most flashers and or fuses are located on or near the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side. , EzForJesus
PS the flasher itself may act as a fuse or the fuse may be intergrated to interact with other components as well. If your fuse panel is not marked take them out and check them one at a time and put them back making sure not to put the wrong fuse in another plug or socket.
I recharged the A/C on my 1995 Acheiva (3.1 liter V6) last month. The wrong service port is easy to find, just next to the hood latch on the "pinky sized" pipe with the sensor. I think the cap on that one is red, but pay attention to the diameter of the aluminum pipe. The correct diameter is fatter than this.
The correct service port is underneath the car, not too far from the oil drain. You will need to elevate the front of the car and chock your tires for this, unless you have a lift or a pit to work in. Since an A/C check requires the engine to be running to get an accurate reading, get a buddy (a.k.a. a witness) in case things go sour.
Now, crawl underneath your car and hunt for the service valve. Look for the aluminum pipe near the radiator. If memory serves, it is just behind the radiator, towards the center of the car, but slightly towards the passenger side. You are loking for a tee in the pipe. The valve points toward the ground, and it probably caked with engine crud. The valve cover unscrews, much like the one on the top side of the vehicle. Attach your meter, and follow the directions for testing. Recharge if necessary.
More safety: If possible, get out from under the car when testing or refilling. An extra couple feet of hose could save your life. Always think, "If my jackstands buckled, or the car rolled, where is the best place to be?" "Under the oil pan" is not the correct answer. There are more comfortable places to be trapped.
On a side note, mine turned out to have low refrigerant and a bad connection to the relay (passenger firewall relay bank, 2 green wires, 2 red wires), which added to the troubleshooting on mine. If your compressor isn't turning when your A/C is filled to the right pressure, then you may have an electrical issue. The schematics show at least four components which could electrically interrupt the compressor clutch.
In Most cases it is the aluminum hose with the smaller size diameter. Located on the iside fender well.
If your car has a 16V Quad 4 engine, then follow the two large freon hoses leading down to the A/C compressor. The Low Side Port is right beside the manifold block that bolts to the compressor.
This way, General Motors has made it as difficult as possible to get a service hose connected to it. You will burn your hands and melt down from the heat coming off the radiator.
I bought my last GM car back in 1982. It will be the last one I own as long as I live. I hate those poorly designed cars and the people who designed them. I feel no compassion for GMs financial troubles. I tried to tell them where they were going wrong 20 years ago but they would not listen.
I have been driving BMW automobiles ever since. Never have I been more completely satisfied with a car.
A/C is ALWAYS serviced on the LOW (suction/gas)side. The low side hose is ALWAYS the larger diameter hose. The high-side (liquid) hose will go INTO the firewall to the evaporator unit (possibly into a receiver-drier unit 1st). If the vehicle came OEM with 134 refrigerant, the snap-on connector on most charging kits will only connect to the low-side quick-couple fitting. Mark-Raleigh, NC
i'm pretty sure that is your traction control system. look for a button labeled traction control, ets or something like that. then push it. Theres a rocker switch labeled "trac control" on the left of the steering column switch it one way to turn traction control on and the other way to turn it off, either way it wont harm anything. GM designed a glorious "Traction Control System", the purpose of which is unknown. What is known however, is that this system has broken on all Achievas known to be in existance. As you will notice if you follow the uninformed advice of the previous posters, activating the system causes any number of problems, many of which are dangerous. Naturally, rather than take any action to fix the problem, GM has tacitly advised dealers to merely turn the switch to off. (The fact that there even is a switch suggests that the system never worked, and indeed was never intended to.) Dealers typically then advice foolish consumers that the light "is meant to be off", which means they think Achieva drivers are among the dumbest people in America. I don't know what the "Traction Control System" is, but doesn't the light just mean you have turned the system ON and when light is off you have turned the system OFF? The traction control really only works in snow and ice. During the summer there is really no point in having it on. Without it your tires will spin. When activated it senses when the wheels starts spinning and cuts power for a second. It works the same as pumping the gas pedal. It works fine on my 96 and I wouldn't be able to get up my driveway without it. I would advise keeping the TCS off at all times, even during snow and ice. When I first started driving my 1996 Acheiva, I left the TCS on at all times. It took me about 6 months to burn out my rotors, repeatedly. I could not understand why they kept warping and getting destroyed. I have had it off for the past 3 years and I still have a good set of rotors. It is more trouble than it is worth. Drive slowly and sensibly in the rain and snow and you will be fine without it.
All common GM vehicles from the early 1980's to mid-1995 have an ALDL diagnostic terminal with 12 posts, one of which is the diagnostic post. If you ground that post and turn key on, the check engine light will flash a series of codes starting with 12. The flashes are done three times for each stored code. Record those after the 1-2 flashes and before the 1-2 goes again. The codes are only displayed in numerical sequence, not as to when they happened. One of the terminals is a ground so you could use a paper clip for the connection. Once you have the codes, you need to find the meaning in a good repair manual. In late 1995, and all 1996 GMs and later have and OBD II terminal, and you need a computer tester to do codes. Fortunately many part stores have these and will do it for you. NOTE: There is a hybrid system in mid-1995, like my '95 Olds Achieva that have no easy way to get codes. It is not a late connector nor does it have all the wires like early GMs to clip. You will see only 3 wires and these take a special uncommon meter to read...see your mechanic....Enjoy Dan
It is under the dash board and it is extremely difficul to change. Shop labor and parts will cost you aroud $350.00. I just had mine replaced. It can be done, though. Took me six hours, three of which were the stupid dash. You'll see the two hoses in the middle and the bottom of the firewall.
my brother and I used a hole saw and drilled thru the wheelwell. He had to heat the bolts with a mapp gas torch. But it worked. john
The low pressure fitting (service port) in on the suction / low pressure hose (the larger hose between the dash and the compressor) since you are using 134a equipment the low charge fitting will olny fit the low size service port. Mark K-------Raleigh, NC
On my 96 Achieva SC, it is under the car just behind the radiator next to the compressor. It is a pain to get to. It is next to the radiator hose so you can burn yourself when you use it. Tom F------Macon, GA
Try asking at GrandAmOwnersClub.com , as there may be similarities between Grand Am and Olds in 1996. These people a friendly (check out the "Old Guys" threads first.) yes I have a 1997 Achieva that had the same problem with havving to wait 10 min before you can start it .. I took apart the cover on the stearing cover and found to little wires going to the ignition. While the car was running I diconnected it!! Wah lah. Car has been perfect ever since... Any questions email me at email@example.com
You really neeed a manual to get it right. Get one at AUTOREPAIR2000.COM
Unless you have very large amount of water in the gas tank, it should not be an issue. Your vehicle is fuel-injected and F/I systems are very tolerant of water introduction. For minor amounts of water, use a gas-dryer (alcohol) such as HEET or Prestone Gas Dryer. For large amounts of water, drop the gas tank, dry it out, remove the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump screen (sock) and pump and reassemble. Be sure to purge the water (if there is any) out of the fuel line by releasing fuel from the service port fitting on the F/I hose once the vehicle has been reassembled. Mark--Raleigh, NC
On my 1994 achieva its vacume controlled i had to replace the line going to the controller. It was broken. It runs frin the top of your intake throttle body its a small line maybe 1/8 inch down to a vacume tank in lower front drivers side, from there it runs up the drivers side fender accrossed the firewall towards the top and into the passanger side through the firewall. It comes though behind the glove box and over to a vacume spliter behind the vent selecter. mine broke right at the vacume spliter. Word of advise use heavy stiff plastic vacume line to replace it anything less will colapse when vacume is applied. this solved my problem. the line is very easy to replace.
You will fine it right on side of the starter on the front side of the motor
if you follow the lower rad hose, under the engine it connects to a metal pipe which goes up the back of the engine. the thermostat is located in that pipe where it joins to the water pump. I found yhe least frustrating way to change it is to remove the exhaust pipe and manifold, and you will be able to see the housing clearly.
the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy
BY "freon" do you mean R-12? If so then the answer is no. The system uses 134A refridgerant and does not need to be converted.
All except 2.3L and 2.4L (Quad -4) models
CAUTION: If it has the Delco LocII audio syatem, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery. 1) Disconnect the negative battery cable 2) Raise the vehicle and support on jackstands 3) Under the vehicle disconnect the solenoid wire and battery cable from the stater solenoid. 4) Remove the starter motor bolts 5) Remove the starter motor NOTE: the location of spacer shim(s) 6) Installation is the reverse of removal NOTE: Be sure to install the shim(s) in the same location
2.3L and 2.4L (Quad-4)
See CAUTION ABOVE
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable 2) Remove the intake air duct 3) Remove the cooling fan 4) Remove the oil filter 5) Remove the starter mounting bolts and pull the starter out enough to disconnect the battery cable and wiring harness from the solenoid 6) Lift the starter out between the intake manifold and radiator 7) Installation is in the reverse of removal
Edit: I just did this in my 97 4cyl and I just wanted to add to these instructions that you may have to unscrew the starter relay to get the cooling fan out. The starter relay is right next to the battery. Also, check the wires coming out of the starter relay. There is a purple wire that connects to a connector mounted above the oil filter. It's easy to accidentally unplug when you are installing the new starter, make sure you get it back in there or the car won't start.
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface, in park, parking break set. On the passenger side wheel well, remove the plastic shroud that wraps under the engine. This will make access to the lower pulleys easier. 2. Place a floor jack beneath the oil pan with a small wooden plank to distribute the lifting pressure. 3. Raise the jack until the vehicle begins to rise. 4. Connect a rachet-style tie down between the lifting eye located directly in front of the alternator to a solid and sturdy point on the front of the car. Jack the strap until there is firm tension on it. This keeps the engine from rocking backwards when you later remove the engine mount. 5. Release tension on the belt by lifting the belt-tensioner. I didn't have a wrench handle long enough to reach into the small space, so I used a different method. I used a strap with a hook on the end, like those straps with the rachets on them for tying things down. I lowered the hook end from the rear side of the strut and looped it to the front side and hooked it onto the end of the belt tensioner. To release tension I just pulled up on the strap until the belt was loose enough to pull off the alternator. Skip this step if you just want to cut the belt off or it is already broken. 6. The upper engine mount is located next to the strut. It connects to two other sections that bolt to the engine. The rear mount is below the alternator. The front mount is below the power steering pump. Only the rear mount needs to be removed. Here are the steps to remove the parts needed for removing and re-installing the belt. On the upper engine mount locate three 15mm bolts, two connect at the rear and one at the front. Remove all three bolts. The engine will rotate slightly when removing the bolts, so you may have to rotate it slightly while pulling the bolts out. Next, remove the rear mount. There are two 15mm nuts and one bolt holding it in place. When the rear mount is disconnected, there is a gap between the upper engine mount and the rear mount. The belt will slide out through that gap. To complete removal, slide the belt through the gap between the upper engine mount that you unbolted and the two engine mount sections. 7. When installing the new belt, slide it into the gap that you used for removing the old belt. Seat it onto all pulleys to make sure you don't have any kinks or twists. Wait until the vehicle is reassembled before placing the belt onto the alternator pulley. 8. Reverse the procedure to reassemble the engine mount. I don't have torque values for the bolts; I just made them as tight as they were when I removed them.
I others: Mark Rodgers firstname.lastname@example.org
Way too much work for me. I agree with the lower shroud. I took a long box end wrench that fits the hex nut in the belt tensioner attached it. I turned it a little by had and then slid a pipe over the end of the wrench to get it up where I can get a better hold and get better leverage. After pushing the tensioner up, the belt came off of the alternator. I dropped it out the bottom. I changed the A/C compressor and put it back in. Not a lot of room but relatively simple to do.
T Foreman Macon, GA
I've had my 92 Achieva S since 1992 - 153,000 miles. It's a very dependable automobile. The usual types of problems with a car this old, but never had a problem with the transmission. I'm planning on running it for another 50,000 or so.
I have a '93 S with 170,000. The Quad 4 engines (mine) have a history of warped cylinder heads (aluminum) and timing chain problems. I had mine at 130,000. The heads were poorly designed, but the timing chain problem is acceptable at 130K. No timing chain is forever.
try checking the dimmer switch that dims your dash lights at the left lower side of your dash. one of your door pin switches is bad I have that same problem on my '95. But only one won't turn off. It is the rear passenger light. I found out that under the body on in the frame where the electrial lines run, I have a pinch in one of the electrical lines. That was what was causing mine to stay on.
The timing is computer controled and not setable.
The Emergency Brake is probably adjusted too tight.
Well, that could be the case if the wheels don't turn at all. If they only lock up when you apply the brake, it's more likely that the star wheel is what's slightly too tight.
Every time you press the brake pedal, the star wheel assembly in the drums (which the '92 has) automatically adjusts itself (turns out on a bolt). Over time as the brake shoes wear away, this extending bolt pushes the shoes farther and farther out to make sure they stay close enough to the drum to stop the car.
When you do a brake job and put new shoes on, you have to remember to screw this bolt back in, otherwise they're now too close to the drum.
Keep in mind its normal for them to grab slightly until the new shoes set in. If its not too bad it may return to normal within a day. If not, or when you press the brake the back wheels lock up way before the front grabs, or even if you're just not comfortable driving the car, take the car back to the shop and get them to loosen the back brakes a bit.
If you do your own work and are comfortable doing your brakes, there is a plug you can remove on the backing plate and get in with a screwdriver to turn the star wheel while the drum is on. Don't do this yourself unless you're experienced or have the help of a pro. Your brakes are too important.
You have no "throttle body", you have an upper & lower intake manifold, (sometimes the upper is called the "plenum"). There is never a need to "prime" it. Your vehicle is MFI (manifold fuel injected) and "primes" itself when the crankshaft position sensor senses crankshaft movement, and a start signal from the ECM unit. Should it take too much cranking to start the motor, you could have a bleed-down (siphon) back to the fuel tank by a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. (The fuel pump relay provides a 2-second burst of power to the pump any time it senses a "start" position of the ignition key. Mark---Raleigh, NC MFI is actually multiport fuel injection, but a 96 acheiva has SFI or sequential fuel injection other than that the answer was correct, btw those 3100 are famous for bad fuel pressure regulators i would check that first, on the left side of the engine just behind the power steering is a test port, for the injection system, you should have at least 15 pounds of pressure at the test port...skandolis fort smith ar
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