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follow the top hose off the raddiator back to the engine block there shoukd be a houseing with two or three screws it is under here The thermostat on the 1994 and later 2.3L and 2.4L (Quad 4)engines is located above the radiator outlet pipe in the water pump cover which can be reached from under the vehicle on the passenger side. Note: The bolts are accessible from the top of the engine between the no. 2 and 3 exhaust manifold runners. It may be necessary to remove the engine to transaxle support brace to facilitate removal of the radiator outlet pipe. On all other engines the thermostat is located in the coolant outlet housing on the cylinder head. Some 2.0L OHC and 2.5L OHV 4cylinder engines are equipped with a drop-in style thermostat located in a stamped steel housing mounted on the cylinder head. These models can be identified by a large cap that seals the thermostat housing.

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Most flashers and or fuses are located on or near the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side. , EzForJesus

PS the flasher itself may act as a fuse or the fuse may be intergrated to interact with other components as well. If your fuse panel is not marked take them out and check them one at a time and put them back making sure not to put the wrong fuse in another plug or socket.

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i'm pretty sure that is your traction control system. look for a button labeled traction control, ets or something like that. then push it. Theres a rocker switch labeled "trac control" on the left of the steering column switch it one way to turn traction control on and the other way to turn it off, either way it wont harm anything. GM designed a glorious "Traction Control System", the purpose of which is unknown. What is known however, is that this system has broken on all Achievas known to be in existance. As you will notice if you follow the uninformed advice of the previous posters, activating the system causes any number of problems, many of which are dangerous. Naturally, rather than take any action to fix the problem, GM has tacitly advised dealers to merely turn the switch to off. (The fact that there even is a switch suggests that the system never worked, and indeed was never intended to.) Dealers typically then advice foolish consumers that the light "is meant to be off", which means they think Achieva drivers are among the dumbest people in America. I don't know what the "Traction Control System" is, but doesn't the light just mean you have turned the system ON and when light is off you have turned the system OFF? The traction control really only works in snow and ice. During the summer there is really no point in having it on. Without it your tires will spin. When activated it senses when the wheels starts spinning and cuts power for a second. It works the same as pumping the gas pedal. It works fine on my 96 and I wouldn't be able to get up my driveway without it. I would advise keeping the TCS off at all times, even during snow and ice. When I first started driving my 1996 Acheiva, I left the TCS on at all times. It took me about 6 months to burn out my rotors, repeatedly. I could not understand why they kept warping and getting destroyed. I have had it off for the past 3 years and I still have a good set of rotors. It is more trouble than it is worth. Drive slowly and sensibly in the rain and snow and you will be fine without it.

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All common GM vehicles from the early 1980's to mid-1995 have an ALDL diagnostic terminal with 12 posts, one of which is the diagnostic post. If you ground that post and turn key on, the check engine light will flash a series of codes starting with 12. The flashes are done three times for each stored code. Record those after the 1-2 flashes and before the 1-2 goes again. The codes are only displayed in numerical sequence, not as to when they happened. One of the terminals is a ground so you could use a paper clip for the connection. Once you have the codes, you need to find the meaning in a good repair manual. In late 1995, and all 1996 GMs and later have and OBD II terminal, and you need a computer tester to do codes. Fortunately many part stores have these and will do it for you. NOTE: There is a hybrid system in mid-1995, like my '95 Olds Achieva that have no easy way to get codes. It is not a late connector nor does it have all the wires like early GMs to clip. You will see only 3 wires and these take a special uncommon meter to read...see your mechanic....Enjoy Dan

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It is under the dash board and it is extremely difficul to change. Shop labor and parts will cost you aroud $350.00. I just had mine replaced. It can be done, though. Took me six hours, three of which were the stupid dash. You'll see the two hoses in the middle and the bottom of the firewall.

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my brother and I used a hole saw and drilled thru the wheelwell. He had to heat the bolts with a mapp gas torch. But it worked. john

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The low pressure fitting (service port) in on the suction / low pressure hose (the larger hose between the dash and the compressor) since you are using 134a equipment the low charge fitting will olny fit the low size service port. Mark K-------Raleigh, NC

On my 96 Achieva SC, it is under the car just behind the radiator next to the compressor. It is a pain to get to. It is next to the radiator hose so you can burn yourself when you use it. Tom F------Macon, GA

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Try asking at GrandAmOwnersClub.com , as there may be similarities between Grand Am and Olds in 1996. These people a friendly (check out the "Old Guys" threads first.) yes I have a 1997 Achieva that had the same problem with havving to wait 10 min before you can start it .. I took apart the cover on the stearing cover and found to little wires going to the ignition. While the car was running I diconnected it!! Wah lah. Car has been perfect ever since... Any questions email me at draper@sacrificestudios.com

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You really neeed a manual to get it right. Get one at AUTOREPAIR2000.COM

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Unless you have very large amount of water in the gas tank, it should not be an issue. Your vehicle is fuel-injected and F/I systems are very tolerant of water introduction. For minor amounts of water, use a gas-dryer (alcohol) such as HEET or Prestone Gas Dryer. For large amounts of water, drop the gas tank, dry it out, remove the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump screen (sock) and pump and reassemble. Be sure to purge the water (if there is any) out of the fuel line by releasing fuel from the service port fitting on the F/I hose once the vehicle has been reassembled. Mark--Raleigh, NC

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On my 1994 achieva its vacume controlled i had to replace the line going to the controller. It was broken. It runs frin the top of your intake throttle body its a small line maybe 1/8 inch down to a vacume tank in lower front drivers side, from there it runs up the drivers side fender accrossed the firewall towards the top and into the passanger side through the firewall. It comes though behind the glove box and over to a vacume spliter behind the vent selecter. mine broke right at the vacume spliter. Word of advise use heavy stiff plastic vacume line to replace it anything less will colapse when vacume is applied. this solved my problem. the line is very easy to replace.

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You will fine it right on side of the starter on the front side of the motor

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if you follow the lower rad hose, under the engine it connects to a metal pipe which goes up the back of the engine. the thermostat is located in that pipe where it joins to the water pump. I found yhe least frustrating way to change it is to remove the exhaust pipe and manifold, and you will be able to see the housing clearly.

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the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy

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BY "freon" do you mean R-12? If so then the answer is no. The system uses 134A refridgerant and does not need to be converted.

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All except 2.3L and 2.4L (Quad -4) models

CAUTION: If it has the Delco LocII audio syatem, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery. 1) Disconnect the negative battery cable 2) Raise the vehicle and support on jackstands 3) Under the vehicle disconnect the solenoid wire and battery cable from the stater solenoid. 4) Remove the starter motor bolts 5) Remove the starter motor NOTE: the location of spacer shim(s) 6) Installation is the reverse of removal NOTE: Be sure to install the shim(s) in the same location

2.3L and 2.4L (Quad-4)

See CAUTION ABOVE

1) Disconnect the negative battery cable 2) Remove the intake air duct 3) Remove the cooling fan 4) Remove the oil filter 5) Remove the starter mounting bolts and pull the starter out enough to disconnect the battery cable and wiring harness from the solenoid 6) Lift the starter out between the intake manifold and radiator 7) Installation is in the reverse of removal

Edit: I just did this in my 97 4cyl and I just wanted to add to these instructions that you may have to unscrew the starter relay to get the cooling fan out. The starter relay is right next to the battery. Also, check the wires coming out of the starter relay. There is a purple wire that connects to a connector mounted above the oil filter. It's easy to accidentally unplug when you are installing the new starter, make sure you get it back in there or the car won't start.

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I've had my 92 Achieva S since 1992 - 153,000 miles. It's a very dependable automobile. The usual types of problems with a car this old, but never had a problem with the transmission. I'm planning on running it for another 50,000 or so.

I have a '93 S with 170,000. The Quad 4 engines (mine) have a history of warped cylinder heads (aluminum) and timing chain problems. I had mine at 130,000. The heads were poorly designed, but the timing chain problem is acceptable at 130K. No timing chain is forever.

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try checking the dimmer switch that dims your dash lights at the left lower side of your dash. one of your door pin switches is bad I have that same problem on my '95. But only one won't turn off. It is the rear passenger light. I found out that under the body on in the frame where the electrial lines run, I have a pinch in one of the electrical lines. That was what was causing mine to stay on.

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The timing is computer controled and not setable.

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You have no "throttle body", you have an upper & lower intake manifold, (sometimes the upper is called the "plenum"). There is never a need to "prime" it. Your vehicle is MFI (manifold fuel injected) and "primes" itself when the crankshaft position sensor senses crankshaft movement, and a start signal from the ECM unit. Should it take too much cranking to start the motor, you could have a bleed-down (siphon) back to the fuel tank by a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. (The fuel pump relay provides a 2-second burst of power to the pump any time it senses a "start" position of the ignition key. Mark---Raleigh, NC MFI is actually multiport fuel injection, but a 96 acheiva has SFI or sequential fuel injection other than that the answer was correct, btw those 3100 are famous for bad fuel pressure regulators i would check that first, on the left side of the engine just behind the power steering is a test port, for the injection system, you should have at least 15 pounds of pressure at the test port...skandolis fort smith ar