5.4L equates to 329.5 cubic inches (61.02 cubic inches per litre).
The all do not have a unitized construction. The Jeep Wrangler is body on frame. The reason manufactures went to unitized construction is lower cost.
The only jeep that had a unibody was the small Cherokee and that had sub frame assemblies mot true unibody. EVERY other jeep has full frames.
You might want to check on the side right beside the vent. There is a switch that goes up and down with a solid square on top and an open square on the bottom. This controls whether or not your vent is open or closed. Just try sliding the control to the open square and that should open up your vent. If that doesn't work then something could be blocking your vent. Such as a clog.
I'd recommend a site such as JeepsUnlimited.com for more info about doing aftermarket things to your jeep. Theres a ton of forum and tech info there that will help you make determinations as to how stupid you really want to get in adding lift or lowering. Anything bad idea you can come up with has already probably been thought of and tried and posted about on a site like that and that would be your best source of info.
Tirerack.com is a great resource for learning about all the intricasies of tire/wheel size and offers a wide choice of tires/wheels to pick and choose from.
Goodluck in making your Jeep stand tall !!!
5 quarts of oil including filter. I recommend the NAPA Gold Filter #1085.
It takes a few seconds for the oil pump to fill the oil filter and then pressurize the engine's lubrication system.
If your Jeep has the earlier AMC based 4.0, 4.2, or 6.0 liter engines, the oil filter is rather large and takes a few seconds longer to fill. If you change your own oil, you can prefill the filter with oil if the filter mounts with the filter pointing upwards... horizontal mounting makes for a mess.
If you change the oil and the pressure registers within 6 or 7 seconds of start-up and idle, there is no damage to the engine. I have had an engine that was run for three or four 15 second runs without damage (I made an oops installing an oil pump and it wouldn't prime).
If you are concerned about oil pressure, have the engine checked with an external pressure gage. If the pressure is below specifications, the pump may be worn and is taking too long to build up pressure after an oil change. The AMC pumps give long service and usually only need replacement after very high milage.
It is under the hood on the right (passenger side) of the vehicle up next to the fire wall to the rear of the coolant recovery tank. Do not turn the freon canister upside down when filling this port and the engine is running. It will cause liquid to go to the pump and destroy your pump. Make sure you wear safety glasses and gloves when you work with this, as the freon absorbs huge amount of moisture and it will absorb quickly into your eyes if sprayed or spilled. The high pressure connection is on the side of the A/C pump near the front of the engine on the left (driver's) side.
infinty sound system! If you want to improve sound go see a speacialist and get a new system. If you want to fix your Jeep speakers, google - Jeep Speakers - and go shopping.
e heat echgers go bad in the seat, call the a jeep dealer it might be a recal. it is in my 2001.
This problem was a recall issue for Chrysler and they should repair it at no cost. You're lucky!!!! The seat heater has two fail modes...stops working or seat catches on fire.
Take the battery cables off disconnect the circut, wait a few minutes re-hook up the battery
The marker lights and brake lights run on two different circuits, and usually light up two different filaments on the bulb. If both tail lights are out, either a fuse is blown, a wire is compromised, or both marker light filaments on the bulbs are broken.
I just replace my rear wiper motor. It is fairly simple once you get the molding off the inside of the lift gate. First remove the wiper off the rear window, then cautiously pop the collar off which will allow you to get to the required nut. After that carefully pry the interior plastic molding off, then you must peel back the factory plastic sheeting. Then just remove the motor the two bolts are fairly easy to locate, you might just have to move a few wires around to get a wrench on them. Good Luck!!
You need to loosen a couple of things, but its pretty straight forward. The bolt for the air tube junction so you can move the bracket, then you can take out the front fuel line, then simply unloosen the nuts to the fuel rail and slowly lift one end or the other. If its a middle injector take it off completely and use some Parker lube of vaseline and put them all back in lubed. Remember to mark/label you injector wires or just keep in mind where they go. I have used aftermarket ones with pretty good results, but I've learned look at them all closely cause after I've changed one, it didn't take long for another to go out. make sure you also change your fuel filter crap in the gas will clog them easily. later
Look under the hood at the power distribution center. Fuse #12 should be for the power windows.
Sounds like your problem is more than that...maybe a bad ground wire in driver's side door harness.
Just had the problem, no fuse or relay for the windows/lockszperiodz Most chances are the
black ground wire in the harness going to the inside of the door. Because it is greater in gage, it eventually breaks. Cut the rubber, find the break and put a splice between the breaks and all will be well. Just happened on my 2004 Grand Cherokee
Great tip. Just fixed my wife's jeep that had been without power windows for a while. Not an improvement on this answer, but I was able to pry the harness boot from the door insert. I immediately saw a broken black wire, but had to peel the rubber wire cover back toward the body and fish for the other end. It's tight in there. The boot will fight you but it will go back on. Cutting might be easier. Thanks for the tip.
My jeep just had the same problem.I solderd an a small piece of extra wire that's a bit more flexable than the heavy guage black ground wire ,as far as the boot getting in the way try grabbing the short wire with some vice grips as low as you can and it will keep the boot away giving you a little room to repair the wire.As far as putting the boot back on after the repairs are made if you pry the plastic housing that's in the door you can gain plenty of extra room to put the rubber boot back on and then just pop it back into the door.The rubber boot should not be cut as its there to keep water away from all the wires and whater else that shouldn't get wet.
i had exact same problem 11/25/2009. opened the rubber boot and there was the broken black ground. also, my interior lights would not shut off when i turned my lights on. once i corrected the door ground everything went back to normal. read about the plastic sleeve removal to replace the rubber boot. it will save you time.
I came across this issue as well and removing the boot i found the black wire to be broken. re attached it with a splice and all is well..
if your looking for a more flexible wire then the best wire you could use is the flexible speaker wire that is used on subwoofers. not the wire to run it from the amp but the wire that goes from the terminal on the speaker to the voice coil, it is a braided wire designed to be flexible. solder the wire on and then cover it with heat shrink, the problem shouldn't come back. i didnt try but you could also see if you can attach the ground to the door, i just didnt want to fool with it because it was dark and 5 degrees.
First, I'd like to thank prior contributors to pointing me in the right direction. I doubt I'd ever have gotten to the problem without the postings here. I had the same symptoms - windows wouldn't work and interior lights came on when I turned on the headlights. When I got inside the rubber boot I found that the yellow/purple wire had broken, not the black ground wire. I repaired the wire and all works OK. Again, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
i am a reconditioner at a small used car dealership and i came across this same problem. opened up the black boot and reconnected the ground, just as the previous contributors mentioned. to anybody looking to improve their mechanical skill, whether you are a pro like me or a backyard warrior, screw all the fancy scanners, alldata or whatever. a internet search engine is a best tool any mechanic could ever have! whatever the problem was, internet research has bailed me out countless times and I'm looking forward to searching again! thank you!
Thanks for the info guy. I also had the same problem a few months, but it started with the power locks not working with the door open. I tested the ground and it was good. After pulling on the harness a couple of time I found the problem. Mine was the orange/white wire that was broken. Added a coupling and its working perfect. I appreciate all the help, you guy saved me from spending money on a mechanic for a simple fix. Thanks Phil
All this info was a problem solver for me. The only thing different is the wire that was broken on mine was orange/white and not black. It fixed the same problem above though. My only investment was $6.00 for the connector. Praise the Lord for an inexpensive fix.
Screwed into the top of the head. each plug has its own little coil on top of it. Remove the long black plastic cover to get access to them all.
it could possibly be the battery or the alternator check both. from the way it sounds that the alternator is going out and is making the battery work to hard and causeing it to go bad it could possibly be the battery or the alternator check both. from the way it sounds that the alternator is going out and is making the battery work to hard and causeing it to go bad
It may fit, but it is not plug and play. The computer and trans systems are different.
move the lever in to 2 wheel drive
If you do not have a 2wd position, it has to stay in 4wd.
transmissions are tricky, this problem could be as simple as a missing or loose part, to a bad transmission alltogether. But either way, it will most likely have to come out and be fixed, rebuilt, or replaced. The only way to relly know is to take it to a specialist, theres no way around that. and changing the trans fluid will not help but it may have the wrong fluid in it also which can make it slip. im only a level 1 auto. tech. but i hope this helps you
You can order one through your local Chrysler Dealership. That's what I did. Or, for the tech savvy, order one through the Jeep website. You can download a copy for free(2004 and newer) or pay to order a hard copy.
According to the 2008 Ford Edge owners manual :
Front wheel drive ( 19.2 U.S. gallons / 72.7 litres )
All wheel drive ( 20.8 U.S. gallons / 78.7 litres )
At the base of the rod that is attached to the headrest, that slides into the top of seat, there is a small button (about the size of a fat flat-head screwdriver); push this in and lift. should come out that way.
Many auto parts retailers will have a plug-in trailer connection that is designed specifically for your vehicle. If they do, it's usually just a quick process of following the directions. It's worth it especially since it can help you keep from having the connections corrode.
it allows you to see what's behind you without losing full eye contact with the road ahead. it also electronically adjusts at night for bright lights. some models may even show you N.S.E.W. if it isn't already displayed on the headliner hud