Trac-Loc axles require a friction modifier to be added. Crawl under your GC and look for a metal tag under one of the bolt heads that says to use the friction modifier. You will likely have to wipe the tag off to read it. My tag was at about the 4 o-clock position on the rear of the differential. Do you have the factory tow package? I believe limited slip diffs were part of this package. You can also go to http://www.jeep.com/wccsapp/universal/J/index.jsp?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Jeep&familyStr=brand&franchise=J&actionURL=%2Fwccs%2Fbrand_forms%2Fus%2Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U and request your 'build sheet' which they will email you in a few days. It will tell you if the GC left the factory with the Trac-Loc differential.

WARNING: DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY CAN OCCUR IF MAGNETICALLY SENSITIVE DEVICES ARE EXPOSED TO THE RELEARN MAGNET. MAGNETS CAN AFFECT PACEMAKERS. CAUTION: Never attempt to train more than one vehicle at a time. System is capable of reading tire pressure sensor transmissions from other nearby vehicles while in train mode. Each time a wheel rotation or tire pressure sensor replacement occurs the tire pressure sensors must be retrained. This is necessary to inform the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) that a sensor change was made and the new locations of the sensors. Retraining is accomplished through the EVIC used in conjunction with a Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. NOTE: Use the following procedure to retrain all five (5) tire pressure sensors. No attempt should be made to retrain individual sensors. # Retrieve Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. # Press MENU Button on EVIC until "RETRAIN TIRE SENSORS - NO" is displayed. # Press STEP button to select "YES". There is a 60 second timer for training the first sensor and a 30 second timer between training the remaining sensors. If either of these timers expire, the EVIC will abort the training procedure. If at any time the EVIC display reads "TRAINING ABORTED", move the vehicle ahead at least one foot and repeat the entire retraining procedure. # Press MENU button to start retraining. Display will read "TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE" NOTE: The order for retraining all five sensors is: * Left Front * Right Front * Right Rear * Left Rear * Spare # Starting at left front tire, place Re-learn Magnet over valve stem. Within approximately 5 seconds, vehicle horn will chirp indicating training complete for that particular sensor. Remove the magnet. # Repeat step (6) on remaining sensors as indicated by EVIC until all five TPM sensors positions are trained. # Once EVIC displays "TRAINING COMPLETE", pressing either STEP, C/T, RESET or MENU button will exit training routine.

Open the hood and you can get behind it with a long screwdriver. Simply pop it toward you by prying with the screwdriver. You'll see that it is simply mounted on 3 metal ball tipped shafts that press into the plastic housing. For installation, lubricate the 3 plastic mounting points with spit or some other lubricant and knock it back on with your fist at each of the 3 points. Yer welcome!

Couldn't find anything that's free but I found a link for a CD for purchase click the link below

One on the block and one on the body i think

Same reasons why all CD players might not work: lense is dirty or unaligned, its not receiving proper voltage, its broken, the motor is not spinning at proper speed, etc. There are no specifics for it being on a car.

Unbolt tire, pull out cotter pin at end of axle, break nut loose on the end of the shaft. (you might need to put tire back on and lower \truck back down so tire wont rotated when doing this)unbolt the brake caliper, take off rotor, unbolt three bolts from the hub. Use a old socket to hold on the lossened bolts and pound on the bolt heads until the hub till loosens up and falls off. You might need a chisle to wedge in there. pull shaft out.

your slave cylinder has gone bad and all your clutch fluid has leaked out,

The answer is going to depend on how much of the exhaust system you want to replace and what kind of exhaust you want to use. The price will vary by a thousand dollars or more depending on what you want to accomplish.

The first thing I'd do is go to a reputable exhaust repair shop and get an estimate on a fully stock system using only the parts that they deem in need of repair. That will give you an idea of what your bottom end will be. Make careful note of the components that they suggest replacing. Then with that info you can do some shopping around and finding out what's available in the aftermarket world that will add some pizzazz to the sound of your vehicle and perhaps increase performance as well.

Just as a reference, the exhaust is broken down into the following major compontents: exhaust manifold (can be replaced with headers), the H or Y pipe which connects the two sides of a V8 equalizing the exhaust pressure leaving both sides of the engine, the catalytic converter, the muffler and the pipes that connect all that along with the associated hangers to connect it to your truck. One popular upgrade that's available is called a Cat-Back Exhaust which basically replaces everything from the Catalytic Converter on back. These come in stainless steel for long life or an aluminized steel that resists rust and typically run from close to $200.00 up to around $500.00 minus the installation labor costs. Many privately owned exhaust shops would be happy to install this for you but of course wouldn't provide a guarantee on the parts.

You might try to Google the word exhaust and see whats out there and also make some calls locally. I hope this gets you started in the right direction.

Good luck !!

The part time transfer case in a 2004 Grand Cherokee was a NP242. To swap from a NP247 to a NP242 you may also need to change drive shafts and axle yokes.

Yes, the only significant changes is that the 1990 didnt have airbags and the 1995 did. There will also be slight wiring differeneces but nothing that will stop you from taking parts from one and putting it on the other. Pretty much all jeep parts are interchangeable. I've seen a 88 with a 96 motor. and my 91 xj limited has seats from a later model grand cherokee.

I was not able to find any recalls for this issue, however I would suggest you take it to the dealer and have them check it out. If the belt has never been used or misused then this is a dealer issue and they should be able to fix it for you at no charge. If this is not a dealer issue then you will either need to have someone replace the unit or do it yourself. There is no reason to do any repairs on a seat belt, just replace the thing. This link should help you find what you need: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?PN=4294955026&N=0&VN=4294967178+4294966246+4294966082+4294967104+4294967096&Nr=AND(universal:0)

My son's went out, and here's how he did it. You'll have to remove the dashboard panels (look for the exposed screws). When you get to the headlight switch, reach to the right side of the switch itself (behind the dash); there's a release button there. Press it as you pull the plunger completely out. The hole where the plunger went in has large Phillips head slots; put a screwdriver in it and turn left and completely remove. The switch is now loose; disconnect it on the left from the wiring harness plug.

You disarm it by unlocking either of the front doors with a key. If that doesn't work, that means that the lock cylinder switch has fallen off of the cylinder. You will have to remove the door panel to reinstall/replace.

OR. you could just pop the hood, and diconnect the battery for about a minute

It will easily pass 200,000 miles with normal maintenance. It's hard to come up with an average life mileage for these. My 1995 has 190,000 miles on it and the engine runs strong but I've had so many other problems with it that I'm getting sick of the thing. As an almost 20 year old vehicle with almost 200,000 miles, it isn't worth a thing on the resale market and if one more thing goes wrong it's going to become a field car.

The Chilton for the 1999 Saturn lists it on top of the Transaxle. Since this book also covers repair for the older SC1 models, it should be in the same place.

Yes, but with the provision that there are no problems as seen by the car's computer. Disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. This will erase any trouble codes stored in the computer. If everything is okay, the CHECK ENGINE light will stay off. If the computer sees a problem, the CHECK ENGINE light will come on again.

Assuming that you know nothing about your engine because of this question we'd first have to wonder if this is actually oil at all. Might be water from your AC system dripping on the ground, or transmission fluid, or antifreeze, brake fluid, or yes, maybe even oil. Out of all of those choices water from the AC evaporator pan is a good thing, the rest are not. Take this vehicle to a shop or to the dealer because you could have a serious problem that would affect the safety of you and your passengers, not to mention the health of your vehicle.

I think I can answer my own question. Went to walmart and found a brake light for a tow hitch, with a logic circuit on it for $10. I also purchased a converter from a 7 way trailer hitch plug to a 4 way, which is needed for the trailer hitch light. It also was $10. so I will tap into the logic circuit to the third brake light. for $20 it solved my problem. Thought I would pass this along.

first unhuck battery!! CAREFULLY take a jack under the tank lift the jack just enough to hold it and remove the straps holding the tank.slowly lower the tank and remove the hoses and electrical plugs.pull tank out where u can see what ur doing.i think their is a large threded nut like thing holding the pump and level sensor in the tank.get the nut thing off pull it out and the rest is prity self explanitory if u all ready have the new pump to look at.(yours may be difrent, but i doubt it)and for gods sake do it out side or in a WELL ventilated space with no open flame, sparks or any other source of ignition.and don't smoke!here in the town i live in we just lost our local napa because the shop was changing a fuel punp on a van and the guy forgot to unhuck the battery befor hand. burned it to the ground

There is no idle pulley on 1995 GC's with 4.0 Inline 6. To replece the serpentine belt;

1) Draw a diagram of the existing routing. 2) Loosen the alternator. 3)Remove old belt and compare to the new belt. 4) Install new belt. 5) Tighten new belt by tightening alternator.

on the 5.2 and 5.6 just rotate tension pulley to the right if you are standing in front of Jeep install and release the tension pulley and let it tighten

Start by removing the plastic protective cover by twisting to the right and pulling off. The low beam light is a small halogen light at the top of the two light clusters. The lower light is the high beam light (part 9005 typically). The low beam light goes into the light casing at the top under the funny dome like structure and is reflected backwards onto the light casing to create the low beam. It's a $12 part usually. One plug, one spring, no tools required for drivers side, 10MM socket to remove airscoop intake on passenger side in order to get to light cover.

you can only adjust the rear drum brakes buy turning the star wheel on the automatic adjuster. there is a black rubber plug you can remove on the back of the backing plate to get the star wheel. or you can take the wheel and drum off and adjust it that way.

Very reliable

To remove ours we had to go underneath and take it out that way. Once we got all the bolts out we had to take off the brackets to get it to drop out. Installation is the reverse of removal. Quite a PITA!!!