There is an adjustable push button switch for each door in door jambs, they should be adjustable for depth. push them one at a time manually with door open and all other doors closed to find the one that needs adjustment, when you get to the tight one-light should go out-then adjust.

Who knows? It's probably worth more as a parts vehicle than it is as a used car. If all you want is the worth of it in scrap metal you'll be disappointed.

Inside the transmission, on the valve body.

Usually The Temperature Will Range Between 160-195 depending on the type of thermostat installed and assuming all fan relays etc.. are operating (You have a low fan and high fan limiter for the electric fan @ the Radiator) If you are having a problem with overheating turn on Air Condition or Defroster on some vehicles this causes the fan to work indicating high blower relay may be to blame Hope This Helps

If you just want to release the lock, there is a small door on the inside right side of the door panel. Remove the small door and stick your finger through the slit in the sound deadening material. You will feel a metal lever behind the material. Push down on the lever and the lock will release. You can now open the liftgate from outside. To access the entire mechanism: Pull the rear panel after removing any seen screws,there are two hidden in the carpet,on the lower left and right of panel.once panel is pulled back,remove sound deadening material.Reach into the center and left side facing out of latch.grab the steel rod and pull up.this should release the hatch. Sometimes the steel rod becomes completely disconnected from the latch mechanism due to breakage of the plastic fastener that normally connects the upper threaded end of the rod to the lift handle. In that case, reach down farther to the actual latch mechanism housing just above the floor of the trunk area. Find the small lever that the bottom of the steel rod normally connects to and pull up on it to release the latch.

I own a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. According to the owner's maual, the vehicle is capable of towing 5000 lbs when properly equipped. Properly equipped equals: Heavy Duty Cooling System Transmission Cooler Sythetic Rear Axel Lubricant. Class III Hitch. Electric Brake Controller The tongue weight of the trailer should not exceed 500 lbs unless you have a load distributing hitch, then it can go up to 600 lbs. I installed the transmission cooler myself and switched out the axle lubricant. I did not ugrade to a larger capacity radiator; however, when towing up grades, I turn off the Air Conditioner. I also run synthetic in the transmission. Have not had problems yet. I pull a 3000 lb unbraked HOLMES utility trailer; but realize that you have to be extrememly careful because of the lack of trailer brakes. I do not like to pull more than 2000 lbs unbraked on the road because the curb weight of the Jeep is only 3800 lbs. I also pull a 4000 lb Shamrock Model 19 Hybrid Camper equipped with brakes and a load distributing hitch. I have also installed Monroe Coil Overload shock on the rear because of the weak rear spring found on the Cherokee. The Shamrock is a bear to pull up hills and on the interstate, mainly because of the other impatent people on the road. In the flatlands, mainly no problems with common sense. The transmission cooler can be bought online or from most parts retailers. If you do it right, should take approximately 3 hours to install. (I had to remove front of grille, down to AC compressor/Radiator/Air Intake box, to get my hands in the areas they needed to be.) Fairly straightforward installation with the right parts kit. Hope this helped.

Check Engine ... self explanatory ... check the engine. Check fluids, air filter, water in the coolant system, oxygen sensor, bad spark plugs, electrical problems, loose nut behind the steering wheel - could be any number of things ... check everything in the engine area.

4.0 inline 6: 1999 and later, 1/4-20 bolts 84 inch-lbs, 5/16-18 bolts 132 inch lbs. Or inch lbs x 0.083=ft lbs thus, 1/4-20=7 ft lbs and 5/16=11 ft lbs. 5.2 and 5.9 V8 18 ft-lbs. or ft-lbs X 12= inch lbs. 4.71 V8 132 in-lbs.

At one point they were essentially the same vehicle. 93-98 model year grands (the ZJ model) shared, same engine (4.0 models), same transmission, same drivetrain. The interior seating was a bit different, and the grand had 4 wheel coil spring suspension and 4 wheel disk brakes. The Cherokee had coils and disks up front, leaf springs and drum brakes on the rear. Both had front and rear solid "live" axles, and there was an option for a 2.5l 4 cylinder in the XJ (Cherokee), and an optional 5.2l V8 and 5.9l V8 in the Grand during various model years.

This changed a bit with a 99-04 Grand (WJ) getting more power plants along with the old 4.0l, and with quite a few changes throughout the chassis.

Its really mostly based on preference. I believe the Cherokee is a better off-road vehicle then the grand. but the grand is a smoother ride on pavement and has more "luxury" accessories. the xj has a more aggressive square look to it and the grands started the SUV/van trend we see today in most suvs from multiple companies.

It depends, some are in the door, some are in a fuse box.

These vehicles only run a one-line fuel system meaning that the fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel sender--fortunately on these vehicles they combine the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter into one assembly--which is changeable, but the fuel tank has to be lowered to be accessed--I assume the vehicle is starting hard when cold--common problem with these vehicles--if taken to a dealer mechanic, they will probably tell you replacement of the entire sending unit is necessary--which is not true--

Correct low idle speed should be in the neighborhood of 750-800 rpms. A bit higher when the engine is cold is acceptable. Anything higher, above 1000 rpm probably indicates an issue that needs to be addressed.

Check bulbs they are double filamented (Larger filament for tail-smaller for stop lights) Check fuse for parking/tailights/dash lights Check switch Check bulbs they are double filamented (Larger filament for tail-smaller for stop lights) Check fuse for parking/tailights/dash lights Check switch

The only Jeep engine that has a timing belt is the 2.4 Liter (DOHC) Vin#1 engine. All other Jeep engines have a timing chain. The belt should be changed at 120,000 miles under normal conditions and 90,000 miles under severe conditions. As this is an Interference engine and serious damage will occur if the belt breaks, I would use the severe schedule and change it at 90,000 miles. If the belt breaks it can cost you plenty.

The 2001 Jeep Cherokee automatic shutdown relay switch can be found in the fuse box. The automatic shutdown relay switch will be in the third column, third from the top.

The usual reasons are one or more of the following 1. Radiator cap bad (system must be pressurized to cool properly) 2. Bad themostat 3. Lower radiator hose weak. (at speed, the hose can callopse restricting the water flow) 4. The viscus fan is bad (this is the fan that is driven by the fan belt. It has a slip clutch) 5. Old or Improper coolant mix in radiator (should be 50% water/50% coolant) 6. Radiator needs to be flushed or rodded 7. Timing too high. NOTE: do not remove the thermostat. it is there for a reason.

It depends on the type of damage to the latch, it could be frozen with rust or the lock\unlock mechanism could just be stuck. There are 2 rod actuators from the inside handle, one for locking and one for latch release. To get to them you will most likely have to remove the inner door panel.

To remove the door panel with door closed: 1. Remove all screws holding inner door panel on. In the case of a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee there are 3 screws, 1 Phillips in the finger well used to pull the door closed, 1 Torx under the handle for the door release and 1 Phillips under a plastic plug opposite the side view mirror.

2. Remove passenger seat: There are 4 bolts on the floor, two in front of the seat that bolt into a beam that runs left to right under the seat and two behind the seat down into the floor most likely covered by two plastic covers. The covers look like doomed wedges on the carpet and snap in place, to remove covers pull them straight back. Once the bolts are all removed tilt the seat forward and check underneath for wire that may need unplugging.

3. Release back half of door panel. There are plastic snap locks all the way around the door panel every 8 inches or so. To replace line up and hit with your palm. If you don�t have and or know how to use a door panel snap puller you can remove by getting your fingers or something that wont scratch the metal or cut the plastic panel between the door and the plastic door panel in the top rear quarter of the panel. I always try to get my fingers between the rubber seal against the side window and the top rear corner of the door panel and pull briskly. You must be between the rubber window seal and the plastic door panel. The snaps will have to be removed for as much of the door panel as the dash board will allow by working out from the corner and around the top and bottom to the dash.

Once the door panel can be flexed away from the door you will have to pull back the weather seal from the rear of the door to access the large access hole in the lower rear part of the steal door. I recommend cool to warm weather as hot temperatures will make the mastic sticky and cold temperatures hard to separate.

You can access the locking mechanisms.

Try the rods to see if they work. You can find which is which and the direction they move by moving the handle and lock on the inside.

If it still wont open Follow to rods to see where the latching mechanism is inside the door and spray with a penetrating oil.

Remove the rods from the handles on the panel by turning the plastic snap away from the rod and lifting the rod from the hole. Remember which is which.

Now push and pull on the locking rod ending in a pull. Then try the door handle rod. You may have to follow them inside the door a work the parts on the latch it self.

That should work if not you need to get inside the door more and work on the latch.

there is a blend door not operating properly the dash will have to be removed to repair most likely Read this article: http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.htm I'm having the same problem. Jim

153624 # IS ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD NEXT TO THE THROTEL BODY.

I am having this same problem. The lights for the license plate don't work either. I have had two mechanics suggest to me that I replace the HeadLight Switch. I am thinking about ordering one on Monday.

looking at the truck from the front, it's just to the right of the distributor cap, between the plastic intake and firewall. There will be either three or one wire running to the unit. Need a deep socket to remove.

According to Alldata the 4.0L engine is not equipped with an EGR Valve. You don't have one on the 4.0

After two electric fan failures on my 1999 Grand Cherokee between Jan 08 and Jul 09, and a $400 flatbed charge for the 2nd one, I got fed up with the reliability of the electric fans and added a mechanical fan and clutch.

My GC 4x4 has an inline-6, 4.0L engine. Adding the clutch/fan assembly took all of 10 minutes. The threaded end on front of the water pump is right there, so I first mounted the fan to the clutch on my workbench, then screwed the clutch onto the threaded portion of the water pump.

The vehicle has never run better, and my gas mileage IMPROVED 1-2 mpg during the summer because the a/c compressor doesn't run nearly as often because of this fan, which is always pulling air throuch the a/c condenser.

I absolutely think the mechanical fan is the way to go. The electrical fan proved unreliable.

I am lucky that the electric fan didn't fail while I was deep in the woods, or cause severe engine damage.

The timing chain (not belt) is not a thing that you should have to replace on a mileage basis. Just keep the engine in tune, change the oil per manufacturers recommendations, and drive it. By the way, a timing belt should be changed approximately every 75K to 80K miles. Your engine will have a chain.