This is usually due to a binding that happens when the rear wheels have turned at a different speed than the front due to turning left or right. the shift lever could be bent or dirty needing cleaning and lube, or you could have low fluid level in your T-Case. If you have the vacume type shifter in your front end, a line may have a leak or fallen off. The vacume unit on your front end if you have one may be bad and need either cleaning or replacement. I hope this gives you a place to start looking.

The only Jeep engine that has a timing belt is the 2.4 Liter (DOHC) Vin#1 engine. All other Jeep engines have a timing chain. The belt should be changed at 120,000 miles under normal conditions and 90,000 miles under severe conditions. As this is an Interference engine and serious damage will occur if the belt breaks, I would use the severe schedule and change it at 90,000 miles. If the belt breaks it can cost you plenty.

This is a very common issue with most Ford vehicles. The main door switch is the reason for your problem. Their door latch assemblies go bad often and when this happens it is telling the car that your door is adjar, when it isn't, which is making your dome light come on.

well it could be one of 2 things..one plastic sensor on drivers side rear of trany (takes a vary large rench to change) its vary easy to change... kinda like changing ur oil....oh yea and when u do it get a drain pain because trany fluid will come out when u change it.....or it could be your speedomeder that's what was wrong with mine.but i changed the sensor first.the sensor is like 35$ u WILL need a manuel to change the gauge and it is time consuming!the top and bottom of the dash and the cover that goes around the radio has to come off to get screws oh and that plastic box that goes around the steering colem also has to come off.I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMEND PAYING SOMEONE TO DO IT!!not that u cant but befor your half way done you will wish u had!its a pain in the A$$ and takes hours!

unfortunatly the golfs do not come stock with a block heater. get one, and have a local machanic install it for you I have a 05' Golf GLS 5-door and the cord is right next to the battery box (mine was tucked inside) on the front driver's side of the engine bay.

you can buy them from a multitude of on-line sites. Some of the more noteworthy are quadratec.com , 4wd.com , and jcwhitney Good luck with your search

In addition to those sites, you can also find on-line diagrams at Morris 4X4, where you can find Jeep diagrams by model, (i.e. Jeep Wrangler XJ, Jeep CJ7, and so forth).

Hope you find what your looking for,

Thanks,

This gun was manufactured for Sears Roebuck by the J. Stevens division of Savage Arms sometime between 1931 and 1941.

It's hard to say without the year, model and engine size. From 1990 on, Cherokees, Comanches and Wagoneers took 4,5,or 6 quarts depending on which engine. the 2.5L engines take 4 quarts, the 5.2L engines take 5 quarts and the 4.0L engines take 6 quarts. I suspect but don't know for sure that the same engines would be in the Wranglers.

not without all wiring harnesses and computers. also, the fuel systems are different i think...

remove hub caps , loosen axle nut first ( all b4 u jack it up ) , jack it up , take the tire off ,remove brake caliper ,remove brake rotor , remove the axle hub nut ,unbolt the assembly from the steering knuckle & carefully tap it out of the knuckle bore, you'll need a 13ml wrench with 12 point box end to remove the 3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in , then if the axle sticks in the hub splines push it out of the hub with a puller ,once the hub & bearing assembly has been removed the axle shaft can be pulled straight out of the housing .

I have a 1992 Dynasty with the 3.3 Liter engine. The serpentine belt has a tensioner pulley that is spring loaded... it puts tension on the pulley automatically - if the belt is in place correctly the way it is supposed to go. You probably want to know how to get the belt on or off... I put a box end wrench around the nut in the center of the tensioner pulley. With the wrench over the nut, push back on the other end of the wrench with something long and thin. There isn't much room around that area but I found that a three foot piece of 1 X 4 wood board works well. You should feel the spring tension of the pulley when you push back on the wrench... it will move a couple of inches or so. It might be a good idea to have someone else push back on the wrench while you remove/istall the belt... just easier that way and probably safer too. Anyways, with everything in place correctly, no further adjustment is needed. If you have the serpentine belt off, it might be a good idea to check the idler pulley. The bearings don't last forever... ha! Mine lasted maybe 175,000 miles before it siezed up. The pulley, mounting bracket, new belt and tow truck expense was about $450 at a Dodge dealer. I think the bad bearing did make some noise occasionally before it went out but I ignored it. It finally went out on a cold winter morning on my way to work. Live and learn, I guess. Anyways, try not to ignore warning noises from your Dynasty and it will give you many more miles of fun. Gary... Princeton, MN.

Detonation....Needs to be fixed immediately

It is probably not detonation as stated above, rather a lifter is sticking and needs to be replaced.

Also, the rocker arm bearings can get worn out. As stated above, just replace.

>Both My 4 litre and my old 2.5 litre ticked when cold. As soon as the engine warmed up it went away.

There are two distinct things in these engines that will cause a tick noise and I've had both occur in both engines. Detonation is NOT going to cause a constant tick as you're saying.

1: you have either a sticking lifter or sticking exhaust valve. My 4.0 wrangler does this when it's cold, I've come to the conclusion that it's an exhaust valve because if you give the engine a minute or two to "cool off" at an idle before shutdown, it seems to not tick the next time it's started. This was never a CONSTANT problem, was more intermittent.

2: You have a leaky exhaust manifold gasket. THIS is more likely your tick. I've had this occur on EVERY jeep I've owned. I think this is due to the fact that EVERY jeep I've owned came straight from the factory without nuts on the exhaust manifold studs at the extreme front and rear of the engine. You need to replace the gasket, torque the manifolds properly and install nuts on the nutless studs.

ADDED TO HIS LIST....

3. Worn cam lobe.

4. Crank bearing/seal worn.

5. Pistion walking.

6. dead spark plug

7. bent push rod.

8. bad roter/cap - thus spark plug not dedet.

9. bent connecting rod.

or your timing could also be off.

Or worst thing worst you blew a piston due to your side wall giving away. this is a common problem on older 2.5liters it happens in the number 1 or 4 cylinder mostly due to un-even cooling. Mine happened from a radiator leak that i didn't notice, and my bud's from and air pocket. If your not offroading and or beating it this shouldn't happen.

Whatever it is get it fixed before you need a new enigine.

All jeeps have a light knock but its just from normal rod/value movement.

newer vehicles, such as a 99 jeep, all use 134-A refrigerant.

In this day and age of the computers there are no Separate Systems Par Say. if the original question pertained to any say 1997 to present GM car and/or truck There is a TSB ##01-07-30-002D That refers to this type problem, It pertains to: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrumend Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) #01-07-30-002D - (Oct 19, 2004)Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) This bulletin is being revised to update model years, add additional models and 4L80/85 Transmission Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002C (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle). Condition Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON. The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E). The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E). The instrument cluster is inoperative. Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.CauseThe most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.NOTE! GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

No. Two separate systems.

An ignition switch might not operate if the transmission linkage or a transmission park solenoid or BTSI solenoid is defective.The most common cause apparently is spilled soda/beer on the console.

Hello from the frigid North. Most block heaters are installed as options by the dealership in my neck of the woods. When the auto manufacturer (or importer in your case) builds the vehicle, they usually dont know if its going to wind up in Miami or Fargo, so they leave it up to the retailer to make a coupla bucks if we want to get it started at -30 below...GL

www.autozone.com Provides 1 electrical (Main) and 2 body wiring diagrams. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1f/ec/6b/0900823d801fec6b.jsp This will provide all wiring diagrams for Wrangler from 87 - 95 bruce

Not to seem smart at all but the first thing I would check would be the battery. If you figure out that it is charged well and it stilldoesn't start then you could try checking the connections on the battery posts or the connections on the starter. Unfortunately i am not much help beyond those steps but good luck.

bad shocks

how many quarts of fluid for a 1966 mustang automatic 6 cyl need

If it cranks over fine, check the fuel pressure with a gauge attached to the test port on the fuel rail. If that is ok, check for spark at the plugs, if no spark, you might need a new ignition coil.

There is no timing adjustment on fuel injected models the ignition timing is set by the ECU . Regards:

Yes, they should fit just fine

1995-2006 will interchange.2007-2012 will interchange

19 gallons

The only way this monetarily makes sense is to have a donor vehicle. You will need to swap not only the engine but many, many other parts. Without a donor vehicle, I would forget this and sell the Jeep you now have and purchase one with a 4.0 The aforementioned is absolutely correct. I am in the midst of this task and I have labored many....hours and the main issue is the wiring harness. Granted, I did the conversion from a 1991 2.5L to a 1994 4.0L.. You must weld new motor mounts..new emissions(depending on where you live) and the WIRING HARNESS..what a pain in the...you know..new computer, new driveshaft (maybe)..and the list goes on