You should start off treating the engine very gently i.e. gentle revs and never more than 1/4 throttle. Over time you gradually use more revs and more throttle until you eventually end up using the full range of the engine. It is important to eventually end up using all the power and rev range to wear harden various parts. It is also important that you do not keep to a single continuous speed or gear but vary your speed quite a bit during this time (a long highway journey is NOT a good break in if you just sit in top gear at a continuous speed). This is because things are still hardening up and you can wear a groove into them.
Modern engines break in relatively quickly, often 1000km, older designs took longer as the tolerances were not as precise. The first oil change is often a lot sooner than later ones as during break in rough edges from manufacturing will be worn off and end up in the oil.
Here is more advice from various contributors:
The x package is just under the Sahara package. It's a nicely equipped jeep, without the plastic body cladding and painted fender flares. The ones I have seen have air, tilt cruise power steering abs( sometimes) a lot also have the desirable Dana 44 with limited slip. Good platform for building a great jeep.
Try JCWHITNEY.COM they have manuals that might show them. It took me quite a while to finally figure out the vacuum diagram for the '87 Wrangler front axle system. If I can help, please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. My 91 Wrangler has same vacuum system and they are prone to problems. As long as your transfer case is shifting into 4WD (mine is), a better solution is a manual cable that replaces the funky vacumm motor on the front axel. It seems a bit pricy (around $200 if I remember correctly), but since I have already replaced the motor once several years ago, rather than spend the money to fix the now broken again funky set up, I think better money is on a cable to eliminate that weakness. I have seen several aftermarket suppliers carry it. Amazon or EBay might also be good sources.
TJ is not an abbreviation for anything, its just Jeep's designation for the 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler. After World War Two, Jeep made vehicles for non-military use. They were designated "CJ" for "Citizen's Jeep". In 1987, Jeep had a major renovation of the Wrangler and designated it "YJ". Again a major design change took place in 1997, and the new Jeep was called the "TJ". The letters don't mean anything though.
No it uses an fixed orifice system.
It absolutely can. I live in Michigan and we get a lot of snow here! I've parked my 2000 Jeep Wrangler outside year round for the last 10 years. The soft top was pretty dull after about 5 years, because I've always lived on dirt roads and the dirt tends to scratch the plastic up, especially when you take the top up and down as often as I do. I finally broke down and replaced the soft top this spring because I couldn't see through the rear window anymore, but the soft top was still completely water-proof after 10 years.
You can buy replacement tops with or without the hardware (it's cheaper if your hardware is intact and you only replace the skins). I replaced only the skins and it was quite an easy job.
simple, but involved.
You'll need to remove the transmission and transfer case ( do it separately as they are quite heavy together )
You 'll see the clutch attached to the flywheel still on the engine, remove the bolts holding it on ( pay attention to it's orientation as well as the clutch disk, hole placement as it will be easier to line up the new one )
Once the old one is removed, line up the new clutch ( use an alignment tool, your new clutch may come with one, this makes sure the clutch disk is lined up with the pilot bearing and the center of the clutch springs.
tighten the clutch to torque specs, remove the alignment tool, and reinstall the trans.
One note, I suggest replacing the throw out bearing ( this may include the clutch slave cylinder too ) before reinstalling, you don't want to do this again soon.
Inspect all hoses and tubes for cracks, cuts or breaks, listen for a sucking sound while the engine is running, this would indicate a leak, lastly spray some starter fluid or carb cleaner around a suspected leak area, if the engine races it is a trouble area.
Always make sure your fuel cap is sealing well, it is the most common evap leak area, if in doubt replace it.
I drive a 98 Wrangler. The antifreeze gets poured in a container to the right of the radiator. The radiator is the very first thing between you and the engine when you pop the hood. Open the container to the right, and pour in your antifreeze. Make sure you don't do this when the car is hot. Also, mine is yellowish and there is a line and the word "FULL" to denote how much antifreeze you should put in.
It can vary on top brand but Bestops are usually the high priced tops that are very great. They can run just about 700 but the cheaper Pavement Ends tops are cheap but do not last quite as long and poor quality, they run about 500. Id rather waste the extra 200 bucks so i don't have to buy another top in 7 years, most pavement end tops last 3 to 5 years in Florida. Bestop last 7 years in Florida
Call a jeep dealer an give them the vin number they should be able to make u a new set
That is condensation and nothing to worry about. Once the exhaust reaches temperature, it will evaporate any moisture in the system.
Yes, at least all the JK's have them the rubicons have front and rear dana 44's and the saharas and sports have D30 front and D44 rear.
Mine has 270k kilometers on body axels transmission and has been lifted for the last 3 years with 35s. But the 4cly engine was replace around 250k and new one was put in used with 146 k on it now
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fuse box or steering column for switched power.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Behind the Drivers Side Under the Dash Near Steering Column.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Violet
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Dark Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Light Green
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Light Green
Drivers side frame rail just above and forward of the tank.
Replace the sending unit. Approx. $30 at parts store. I just replace one in my 1992 Wrangler. Requires a special socket ($12.)
you can also use teflon tape and wrap the threads.
Rarely do the leak around the threads, replace it before it creates bigger problems.
If you look at the VIN plate that is directly in front of you, by the windshield, when you're in the driver seat, it's underneath it. There is a series of Torx bolts you need to remove to fold down the windshield to access it.
1.) Three Torx bolts on each side at the top where the roll bar attaches
2.) The flat metal plate that bolts to the bottom of the windshield frame and the metal dash. (Also 3 bolts on each side)
The jack is stored under the passenger seat and the rods for the handle are between the seat and the door in a pouch velcroed down.
Try the local auto glass shop or a wrecking yard.
Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system's ability to absorb, transport, and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated mineral deposits in the water jackets or radiator, a defective thermostat that doesn't open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap.
The cooling system is a group of related parts that depend on proper function from each of its component parts to keep the engine cool. Service the cooling system and replace any under-performing or suspected weak parts. Any component part of the cooling system that is not fully doing its job will stress the others and your cooling system will overheat. The most important maintenance item is to flush and refill the coolant periodically. Coolant should be replaced every 36,000 miles or every three years. Anti-freeze has a number of additives that are designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, but they have a limited life span. The corrosion causes scale that eventually builds up and begins to clog the thin flat tubes in the radiator and heater core, causing the engine to eventually overheat.
-Use a flushing/cleaning solution and then drain and fill the radiator with a fresh 50/50 coolant and water mix. With a neglected cooling system you may have to flush several times.
-Inspect the radiator for mud/bugs/grass clogging the outside and mineral deposits clogging the inside. Clean or replace as needed.
-Replace the thermostat with a STANT or Robertshaw 195* thermostat. Cheap thermostats are cheap for a reason.
-Replace the radiator cap if your Jeep has one. An old worn out cap will allow boil overs and/or allow the coolant flash over into to steam. You will see the coolant temps suddenly jump from 210* to the Red Zone and back to 210* if your radiator cap is weak.
-Inspect/test or replace the mechanical fan clutch. A worn fan clutch will allow temperature creep at stoplights, in heavy traffic, and on the 4x4 trails. A fan clutch that "looks" OK is not the same as working OK.
-Inspect the electric cooling fan and the fan relay. Apply 12 volts and make sure the fan runs. Exchange the cooling fan relay with one of the others similar relays. Confirm that the e-fan starts when engine temps reach 215-218*. Repair or replace the fan or relay as needed.
-Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
-Replace the water pump. The pumping fins can deteriorate over time and the pump will not flow enough coolant to keep the temps under control.
-Inspect/replace the radiator hoses. Make sure the coiled wire is installed in the lower hose.
If you have covered all the points listed above and still have overheating issues, inspect the head for cracks and head gasket for leaks. Exhaust gasses entering the coolant can raise the temperature of the coolant or cause steam pockets in the coolant that will temporarily block the flow of coolant
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