Check engine oil that the water is entering into the sump from a blown headgasket.
Those are the lifters that are making the noise. It won't hurt the car, it's just annoying. Mine does it.
Yo Can just seafoam it, alot of times its actually a build up of carbon in the valves and combustion chamber, and the noise just gets echoed by the lifters and valvetrain other parts. just be very careful with the seafoam if you do it wrong and suck in too much you can hydro lock your motor(liquids dont compress so it would be like trying to close a door with a person standin in the way, something is gonna break)
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The toe in and out or a grand Cherokee is not adjustable. However if for some reason you do need to change it the only way is to purchase new ball joints which are off centre so by turning these you can adjust accordingly. These were fitted as an option and are only available from main dealers
That is not correct.
The '96 ZJ has an inverted Y setup. Adjusting toe in is as simple as rotating the adjustment collar on the tie rod. Most people run 1/16" to 1/4" toe in. IIRC factory spec is 1/8" toe in.
Mine is an '89 and the power accessories are all on one fuse at the bottom left on my panel. The very end fuse and it's 10 amp. Hope that helps you. :)
Shifter may need ajusting . Could also be a bad vaccuum switch (My 88 Wrangler had that problem)
It is not recommended.
Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 1987-2006 are 5X4.5
Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 2007-2014 are 5X5
Should be the same 5x113cm
Low fluid, broken transmission.
About 5 pints
To do it yourself, 30 or 40 bucks, for someone else to do it 2-3 hundred.
Its all about the labor, brake lines and fittings are cheap, but that job takes time to do.
If that rubicon also happens to be a 4 door, as long as the years and doors match up you wont have any issues, there are no differences between trim packages
One type of fowmaster is used in the pub trade. It is used to regulate the speed at which the beer is delivered to the font head to give the right "head" or foam when pulling a glass of beer
With the proper tools & patience, this should not be too difficult if you have moderate mechanical skills. First start about a week BEFORE you plan to take them off and soak them with PB Blaster or another good penetrating oil (WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil but a moisture dispersant). The get breaker bars & AIR TOOLS. Be gentle. If these will not loosen the bolts & nuts, take it to a shop & have them do it cause they will probably need to torch the shocks off (the extreme heat ex[ands the nuts so they can be loosened. But by soaking the nuts/bolts for about a week, it usually allows them to be broken loose with the tools most people have available. Then buy some GOOD shcks to put on. I put on Edlebrocks & was amazed at the ride difference in my 1991 Wrangler. Of course they also cost about $75 each so were not cheap but worth it in my opinion. I liked them so much I also used Edlebrock when I replaced my Yukon's shocks. If you decide to do it yourself, make sure you practice good safety. Use jack stands and make sure vehicle is solid on them BEFORE pulling tires & crawling underneath.
I couldn't find anything specific in my Haynes manual, but from what I've seen by snooping around Google and by looking at my own tach, it seems that 800RPM is in the ballpark. FriPilot
For a gas leak a person needs to check the gas line, along with a few other things. They need to check the seals, the pumps, and the fuel filter, to see where it is coming from, and then replace the part.
Disconnect the Wire connector to the top next to the rear door on the inside. It connects the dome light and optional rear window wiper .
Remove the 5 Sheet metal screws that are above the windshield on the inside.
Remove the 4 Torx bolts on either side under the side windows. You will want an extension as one bolt on each side is right next to the roll bar.
Remove the aluminum trim plates that are under the bolts on either side.
Open the rear window and close the rear door. (or remove the spare) Have a friend get on one side while you are on the other holding inside the door opening and the the rear window opening. Lift straight up at least a couple inches as there is an over hang with the front of the top and the windshield frame.
Installation is the reverse obviously.
A word of warning: The sheet metal screws in the front will start to strip out the holes on the windshield frame. Once they loosen they will begin to fall out and you will start getting more wind noise than before. If it gets too bad you will actually get rain, or even snow leak in between the the top and windshield.
The bodies are extremely similar, the only thing you might have the adjust is the engine mounts, by looking at it (my friend has a 94 4-cylinder and I have an 05 6-cylinder) his sits further back due to having 2 less cylinders, I'm just not sure if they moved the mounts at all to center the load or anything like that, if the engines are still in each vehicle take a look and messure.
This depends on what you mean by "goes out". If the clutch doesn't grab anymore you will cost to a stop. If the clutch will not release, you will have a hard time stopping.
I have the same question, and how is the steel line connected to the rubber line, how do they come apart? do you have to release the fuel line pressure first?
Thanks for any help I can get also. Mike
A: Ok. If the leak is at one of the quick connects at the rear of the car between the filter and the tank, you need to replace that quick connect. Problem is that they only sell the whole assembly of 3 lines. And it is over $300. Ridiculous when you only have to replace one. I went to auto zone and bought a fix it kit. It was 20 bucks and not to hard. TAKE THE LINE THAT IS LEAKING OFF. You will need to cut the line in half with a razor knife. Measure and cut the new line w/ connector according to the part that you have cut off the original. It is important to have it the right length because they don't bend to easy. Now get some water boiling and put the two ends of the old and the new sides of the tube you will be connecting. 10 min or more. Take one out and quickly push the hose connector into the tube. Push it all the way to the middle of the coupler. Then take the other side out and repeat. It will cool and form the coupler and create a seal. Put it back on the car, start and check for leaks. If your leak is in the actual metal lines. Go to the parts store and get some fuel line and a pipe bender. DO NOT TRY TO BEND WITHOUT THIS TOOL. Bend and form to the correct length and shape.