I have the same question, and how is the steel line connected to the rubber line, how do they come apart? do you have to release the fuel line pressure first?
Thanks for any help I can get also. Mike
A: Ok. If the leak is at one of the quick connects at the rear of the car between the filter and the tank, you need to replace that quick connect. Problem is that they only sell the whole assembly of 3 lines. And it is over $300. Ridiculous when you only have to replace one. I went to auto zone and bought a fix it kit. It was 20 bucks and not to hard. TAKE THE LINE THAT IS LEAKING OFF. You will need to cut the line in half with a razor knife. Measure and cut the new line w/ connector according to the part that you have cut off the original. It is important to have it the right length because they don't bend to easy. Now get some water boiling and put the two ends of the old and the new sides of the tube you will be connecting. 10 min or more. Take one out and quickly push the hose connector into the tube. Push it all the way to the middle of the coupler. Then take the other side out and repeat. It will cool and form the coupler and create a seal. Put it back on the car, start and check for leaks. If your leak is in the actual metal lines. Go to the parts store and get some fuel line and a pipe bender. DO NOT TRY TO BEND WITHOUT THIS TOOL. Bend and form to the correct length and shape.
All vehicles made during and after 1996 use the OBDII standard but there are some proprietary codes for other than emissions systems, check out the site below.
Yes they will fit... Just make sure the striker & latch are the same.
Yes they will fit on the bottoms but the factory upper half doors are angular with a corner and the hard tops have a curved corner so the uppers do not fit.
i just had the same problem with mine, could never get it, then i figured out that you have to be in 5th gear and then turn it on press set and youre good to go..
i just changed my switch about 3 hours ago its under the dash. its bolted to the steering column you have to take off the dash and everthing under it. mine wasnt broke all i had to do was loosen the bolts and slide it forward. but if yours is broke its only 27 dollars.
The 2014 Jeep Wrangler's engine produces 260 ft-lbs. @ 4800 rpm.
Probably bad u-joints in the front. Had the same.
You have either a Dana 35 or a Dana 44 rear axle. The differential cover on a Dana 35 is a perfect oval shape, while the Dana 44 is more angular, almost a stop sign shape.
ALL wranglers between 1989 and 1996 use the 5 bolt, 4-1/2" bolt pattern. This is the same as most of the older Fords.
I am not sure when they changed to this from the earlier models, but the CJ's were 5 on 5" bolt pattern. The new Jeeps are also this bolt pattern. 2007-
Facing the car, the drain plug is on the left side of the bottom of the radiator. If you look under the front bumper you can see it on the left, bottom, of the radiator.
just done the same thing, 50 hours from start to finish by myself it was not to hard, the 350 Chevy is way to much motor even in stock form may want to think twice about it. all the guages and evething will work off the jeep on the 350 with fittings and adapters from local parts store , fairly simple, [[[leave factory wiring harness on the jeep and computer on the jeep]]]] need them all but the ones that hook to the intake (((do not remove any wires))) wire tie them back and make look neat , may have to do a little fabwork on shifter linkage if and automatic is used, very important when you install the 350, if replacing the tranny with another, make sure your transfer case stays in stock location or you will have to make drive shafts. (((even the radiator will work with some hose modifications))), made my bottom hose out of 1.25 muffler about 15" long pipe with a 2.5" tight 90 ((two 45,s welded together)) on one end and a 3.5" 45 ((two 22.5's welded together)) looking the other way on the other end ,works great, auto trans lines used the ones that fit the radiator and brass compresson fitting to the Chevy trany lines, simple, be sure to hook up all ground wires back up, each system has its on ground, also another tid bit, on a jeep wrangler there where several gas tank options for capasity,14 ,16 18 and 20, (((they are all the same gas tank))) up to a 2000 anyway, if your jeep has the filler hose and vent hose separate then this is what you do if its not already 20 gal, drop the tank( real easy, make sure its close to empty) inside the little vent hose there is a plastic liner hose, pull it out,make it 2.5" long and reinstall, BAM 20 gal tank your done, that liitle plastic hose was how they guaged the tank capasity, when it got to the bottom of the vent you tank was full, if you went back to the dealer to get a bigger tank you been had all they did was cut off that hose and charge you $300, the only draw back is the guage reads full longer, big freaken deal i love it
if you have the 6cyl 4.0 from factory they come with 192... but i would recommend going down to 180 but nothing lower.
There are several different things that could be causing your car not to start. You may be out of gas, your starter might be bad, or your battery could be dead.
No.
Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 1987-2006 are 5X4.5
Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 2007-2014 are 5X5