yes it comes with hard top a toneau top and soft top.

on each door, there is a button on the door frame close to the dash that activates the lights. Pull the connections form the switches on each side. On my 91, the passeger side has 1 connection & driver's has 2, mark then to get them back in the right place when the doors go back on.

Yes, all CJ's will be the same

No. 2005 is link and coil. 1990 is leaf spring.

disconnect driveshaft from front diff, and rear diff where it connects to the transfer case, remove bell housing bolts, disconnect clutch hose, place a jack under the belly pan and remove the belly pan ( skid plate ) bolts, move the whole mess back a bit to clear the input shaft and lower the jack to the ground.

If you have a little time to play with it's not a terrible task short of rust..

Unless the wrangler is "raised" chock the front wheels and raise the rear of the jeep. As a precaution of course always unhook the negative battery terminal first to prevent any possibility of a spark from occurring when you have fuel vapors floating about.

Remove the small cover at lower rear of the driver side fender well. It uses a set of push lock fasteners. Pull the pins out a little then pull the fasteners out, and remove the small panel. From here you have access to the tank fill and vent hoses. Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the tank.

Disconnect the fuel lines (driver side at top front of tank) if this is a 15 Gallon tank.

If it is a 20 gallon tank, you do not need to disconnect the lines yet.

place a jack under the tank/Skid plate assembly. Transmission jacks work well, though I use a standard hydraulic floor jack.

From under the jeep remove the nuts from the FRONT of the skid plate, There should be three. This is where the rust issue could make it a P.I.T.A., remember penetrating oil is your friend! Too rusty I find a decent pair of vise grips on the bolt and a socket and breaker bar on the nut and snap them off works.

now to the rear of the jeep and remove the skid plate nuts (4 of them). These are 5/16 bolts, (1/2" socket). DO NOT remove the 2 tank strap nuts (3/8 bolts, 9/16" Socket).

Slowly lower the tank a little bit. If this is a 15 Gallon tank, you already removed the lines now when you can get a hand over the tank from under the jeep, feel around for and disconnect the fuel send connector.

If this is a 20 gallon tank, continue slowly lowering, you may have to lower the passenger side most all the way and shift the tank towards the passenger side to clear it. Notice as you lower it, the lines and sender wires on top of tank. The group is normally retained there with tape, remove the tape to allow slack, and when you can reach them from rear of jeep, disconnect the sender connector and fuel/return/vent lines. On either size tank continue slowly lowering and pull tank out from rear of jeep.

Tank is strapped to the skid plate, which is why you remove the whole unit. Now remove the straps if you are replacing the tank. Just replacing sender/pick-up etc, you can leave it strapped in place.

Re-installation is the exact reverse of removal.

It is strapped to the

Yes it can. I have done this with a 1994 YJ tub on my 1981 CJ7. It has a CJ front clip. Dimensionally, the YJ and CJ7 tubs are identical, although there are a few subtle differences that must be dealt with during the install. There are a set of body mounts in front of the rear wheel wells that are in a different location from CJ to YJ. Some people choose to cut the body mount off the CJ frame and relocate it to the YJ position. If you are not proficient at cutting and welding, a nut and washer can be slipped into the body channel and the original CJ7 mount locations can be used. The YJ gas tank fill is on the drivers side, the CJ gas tank fill is on the passenger side. There are several ways that you can deal with this. If you are good with body work, you can weld or fiberglass the YJ drivers side fill hole closed, and cut a new hole on the passenger side. You could use a YJ fuel tank (without intank fuel pump). I prefer the fuel fill on the driver side of the vehicle, so I chose to keep the YJ hole intact, install the CJ fuel tank backwards and used a longer flex hose (local auto parts store) to connect it. If you are planning to reuse the CJ dash panel and heater controls, there are no holes in the YJ cowl for the defroster ducts. You can make a template out of cardboard from the CJ cowl and cut the the holes into the YJ tub. It's not very difficult, just remember to measure carefully before cutting. If you are interested, you can view some pictures of my YJ tub to CJ7 frame at http://www.myjeepspace.com/user/Banjercat/gallery

GET SOMETHING WITH LESS MILES ON IT

check to make sure fuel pump is working. then check to see if fuel is getting to the fuel rail, then check for spark, if you have spark, compression and fuel it should run.

44 series

Yes, they will pull you over and give you a ticket. Technically, the law states- 'it is unlawful to drive in PA with doors open'....

remove the fuse, that will stop the dome light from coming on.

Or, if you want to be able to turn on the dome light when you use the switch to turn the light on, there's a connector on the backside of the door button (the thing that gets pushed in by the door when it's closed). Simply unplug it.

When I bought my 2006 wrangler I had the same problem. The easiest solution is to pull the fuse but that becomes a hassle. The BEST and most convenient fix that I found is offered from a jeep aftermarket parts co. called Quadratec. They sell a switch that is really easy to install and it mounts under the dash of the passenger side ( its hidden so people wont even know its there. when you take the doors off switch it off..when you put them on switch it back on. here's the link hope this helps : http://www.quadratec.com/products/13029_200.htm

Is there a dome light made that will fit the Jeep Wrangler that has the side (selector) button on the light itself to put it on door / off / on ? So that the easiest way is to just put it on off when the doors are off or switch it to on position when you need it, even if the doors are off ? So that way the key in ignition chime still works if you leave the key in when the ignition is off. A helpful reminder. Plus you may just want the light not to work even if your doors are on. You just don't want the light to work at that particular time for some reason or another. But you still NEED the key in ignition chime to work.

Or just take 3 pounds of TNT or C4 place it in your car, walk about 23 feet away a blow it, if that descent fix it you have a REAL problem

Try this link! http://www.off-road.com/jeep/questions/2003_04/diagram.gif or http://www.off-road.com/jeep/questions/2003_04/

Wrangler TJ Rubicon.

Just like mine, any audio store can provide you with an adapter that fits the CD player of your choice to your vic. Just tell sales person what type of vic. you are puting the CD player in.

the oxygen senor plugs into the manifold on the left side of the engine if faceing the jeep from the front.

4.25 to 4.5 qts

Turn the ignition on, with the engine off. Press the gas pedal to the floor three times in ten seconds.

monochromatic

There are four ways to find a ratio.

1 A dealer can normally tell from the vin number.

2 There are normally tags or labels on the axle that have part number, gear ratio, and fluid requirement

info.

3 You can count how many times you have to turn the driveshaft to get one complete turn of the tires.

4 You can divide the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide by number of teeth on the pinion.

Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 1987-2006 are 5X4.5

Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 2007-2014 are 5X5

No, I think you will find that the hinges are going to be different, but the overall shape and size of the doors are the same.

quadratec.com they have full diagrams of stock and current after-market soft top hardware look in their 'Soft top Advisor' section

Low to high beam is the lever on the steering column, if there is a problem, look there first...