These are common causes of 'no-heat' when the coolant is flowing:
To check - confirm that both heater hoses going into the firewall are warm. If only one is warm, likely there is a blockage and the core will have to be flushed and/or replaced.
If your Taurus is only blowing cold air:
Check the level of your anti-freeze, and make sure that its level is normal.....
1. Open the front hood....
2. Look at the anti-freeze storage tank (white plastic tank on the left side of the engine compartment as you face the front of the car). Check to see where the level is and make sure that it is in the recommended temp zone of Hot or Cold.
3. If the anti-freeze level is in the recommended zone, then the thermostat might be shut closed and not letting the fluid flow freely to the engine. If this is the case, the thermostat has to be replaced. But if the thermostat is stuck, the engine will be overheating anyway, and you'd see the temperature gauge on the dashboard getting up to a dangerous level.
More input from WikiAnswers contributors:
The video posted on the HeaterTreater web site in the TECH section will show you how to access and diagnose blend door problems without removing the dash panel. You do have to remove the center instrument console to get a good view of the plenum box. The hardest part is pulling the radio. It requires a special tool to release the catches on both sides of the radio. You can purchase the tool at any auto parts store or make your own out of a piece of heavy wire bent into a U shape. Or...find your local car thief, they can pull one in seconds!!!
The other thing you want to be sure of is that there is no air trapped in the coolant system. On a cold engine remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. If air is trapped in the system, it will affect engine cooling efficiency and the HVAC system.
Other Ideas & a water pump culprit:
It could be a lot really. Heater core stopped up?
Have you checked the thermostat?
If your Taurus - Sable has 150,000 or more miles on it, you may need a water pump. They wear out. They have fins on them and I have a 2000 Taurus and was what was wrong with mine. The water pump kind of self-destructs on the inside without leaking out the weep hole. The fins just fall apart and you lose heat for your heater and the engine will overheat too.
Please refer to the related questions for more information.
The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn?t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4?s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).
Where is oil sending unit 1999 2.5 xlt ford ranger
* Remove the screws from the top of the instrument panel. Set the parking brake and pull the shift lever down to improve access. Rotate the instrument panel to gain access to the back. The black bulb holders house the panel lights, the tan bulb holders house the sensor lights. Reach behind and grip the back of one of the holders. Twist it counter clockwise and pull outwards. Burned out bulbs will have a black coating. Replace with an identical bulb (194). * I recommend replacing all bulbs while it is out (they all went in at the same time, they are all likely to burn out about the same time) Check the link below for Auto Zone directions to remove the Instrument Panel
What kind of car? engine size? If there is a tensioner and it is weak, it help the belt to squeal. Spray anything wet on the belt -- does the noise stop? If you e the idle without moving will the noise start? Need more info.
This could also be caused by power steering system. Check for leaking tank, low fluid etc.
Have you checked the wheel bearings?
If its not your belts and you got them replaced its possible that your water pump is starting to go.
If you did not get the noise fixed yet, you might want to check on the pulleys where the drive belt is installed and/or the water pump. Pulleys make a high pitch noise when they are worn out either when you first start the engine or during acceleration. Water pump also makes the same noise. Check the little hole above or under the pump, if there is a sign of water/coolant coming out of the hole, your water pump needs a replacement. I hope this can help you.
could also be worth considering your "clutch, thrust bearing", sounds painful I know, not a major job though in the right hands.
In addition to the above, Tires could, PCV valve if not replaced properly on certain engines, alternater.
if its from the rear it could be a fuel pump if your car is efi
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info answer could be bearings wearing out in alternator, a/d compressor,or any other pulleywheel on engine.could also be dry thrust bearing in clutch.need more information, does the noise go away when engine is reved does it get worse if you use a/c,does it happen when stationary or when moving
it could be the cylanders
or you could have a mouse in your car.
i recommend you get a cat
My daughter's car had this problem
It ws in deed the distributer. The price wasn't too bad from autozone. $175 remanufactured plus core charge. The local mechanic charge $20 to install it
I agree with the first answer put down, i have an old car but brakes n wheels seemed fine, there was a problem with the cv shaft, it will cost between 300-400 to fix, i got it reconditioned and my care doesnt make a sound when i brake
Not knowing the make or the model it is impossible to guess. Generally you would have to change the radiator, run the transmission lines and change out flywheel and possibly driveshaft.
With older cars (early hydramatics, for example), you do not have to change the radiator and there ae no transmission lines, but in addition to changing the flywheel and driveshaft, you also have to add the linkage to the carburetor.
You might need to change the ECM (computer) and you may be able to put in an oil cooler instead of changing the radiator.
Another way to go would be to contact your local automotive junk yard and purchase a wrecked vehicle that is the same as yours except automatic. The vehicle would need to be damaged in a way that doesn't effect the parts you are interested in. You would then have everything needed to swap over including peddle assembly, steering column or console, linkages, wiring, switches, crossmember, flywheel, driveshaft, correct speedometer gears, cooling lines, radiator and so on.
Timing marks for twin cam 1.6L B6 engine. When crank pulley is at TDC on the compression stroke, 'E' & 'I' on the camshaft pulleys should be at 12 o'clock. Too easy.
It takes Mercon ATF.
First take off the oil cap under the hood. Under the truck, about center between the seats, you'll find the oil pan and the drain plug. with you oil catch pan right under the plug, unscrew the plug. An adjustable wrench should do the job. When the oil is down to about a drop a second, close it back up. move your catch pan towards the driver side under the oil filter. The filter can be taken off from under the hood either by hand or with a strap wrench. Leave the old filter on the catch pan upside down so it can drain. Put in your new filter in, just past hand tight and refill the oil (about 4 quarts). idle the engine for a minute or two, turn it off and check the oil level again. Don't forget to put the oil cap back on!
== == == == There are 2 fuse boxes / fuse panels in nearly every Ford product: one directly above the driver's left foot (when the driver is actually sitting in the driver's seat). The other is inside the engine compartment, on the right side - contains high current fuses.
The Owners Manuals have detailed illustrations and information regarding the two fuse box / panels, and the various vehicle systems each fuse connects to. Keep reading for information & links to free online sources of Owners Manuals for 1996+ Ford & Mercury products information.
Most fuse boxes and power distribution boxes have a cover or access plate over them. Usually, on the inside of this cover or plate is a pictorial diagram of the layout of all the fuse locations in that particular box. Each fuse or circuit breaker position will be labeled on that diagram. Sometimes the actual base plastic of the box has the description printed by each fuse in it. (These can be very hard to read). Good luck! The fuse diagram is in the owners' manual. However, it is incomplete and ambiguous. Using terms like GEM and ICP. Nowhere, by the way, does it explain where the fuse for the parking and running lights is located. Also, a lot of the chassis electrical run through the "GEM", the Generic Electronic Module. This is the "black box" that only the dealer can diagnose! I have had all of the running lights and parking lights go out on my 2001 Sable, and have found NOTHING on the web that can help me. Looks like we are destined to take the car to the dealer where they will use their magic boxes to diagnose the problem. == == == == = = Ford makes all the Owners Manuals for their entire lineup, 1996 and newer, available online: www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
Another source is the Motorcraft website. See "Related Links" below
Edmunds.com has links to online Owners Manuals for other manufacturers.
See "Related Links" below
Autozone also has online diagrams of the fuse box / panels. See "Related Links" below http://www.taurusclub.com/encyclopedia/Reference95Fuse.jpg This is an accurate fuse diagram based on the factory number location.
This is a really uneducated question. It's like asking, "how much does a bird weigh?" The Ranger had many different engines, transmissions, and body styles over the years. A mid- 2000s Ranger came with a 4 cyl engine, and two different 6-cyl engines. You have to be much more specific when you ask a question.
yes if it is an older dodge. pattern is 5x114.3 15"
you have to go to the car fix to remove it
you should know im trying to find out and i cant find anything im only 9!
Usually this is not cost or time effective.
If it's similar to the 1994, it's pretty easy. The heater core sits on the passenger side inside the cab, and there will be two hoses running through the firewall. It should just be a simple matter of disconnecting the heater hoses, and removing whatever mounting bracket is holding it in place (screws or bolts). I replaced mine with a borrowed tool kit in about 10-15 minutes in a Suburban Lodge parking lot in Charlotte, NC back in 2000. I've always wanted to tell someone that story. Seriously, it won't be that difficult, just have a bucket to catch the little bit of antifreeze from the hoses.
It's one of the easiest cores to replace that I have encountered. Disconnect heater hoses at firewall. Probably doesn't matter about hose placement, but I always mark them just in case. To remove the fiber cover under dash, take a flatblade screwdriver and prise out the center pin of the expansion clips that hold it in place. There are four 5/16 head screws that hold the bottom/drain tray cover. Core will pull through the firewall and then down. You may have to silicone/glue or replace the foam seal strips on the new core. Before you install the core, check the distance between the inlet and outlet tubes to ensure they match the openings in the firewall. This saves time. It helps if you have someone on the outside to guide you when stabbing the tubes through the firewall. Replace bottom cover. You may have to hold one of the tubes when reinstalling the first hose to the core. Replace any lost coolant and check for leaks prior to reinstalling the fiber cover. If the cover seal is in good condition, any leak should drain through the firewall, otherwise it may leak inside cab. These days with parts from Mexico and others, it is not uncommon to get a new defective part.
The "check engine light" is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. It is a good thing once you understand it.
The " check engine light" is also known as a malfunction indicator light (MIL). You can disconnect the battery red lead for about 5 min and it will reset. However, if there is a hard fault, it will come back on.
Disconnecting the battery won't do the trick on OBD 2 vehicles.
Without a scan tool designed to reset the electronic control module (ecm) a do-it-your-selfer can't reset the check engine light.
Pull the codes from the computer using an OBD (II) code reader. Match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source of the fault. After you have repaired the fault, the light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.
One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap.
But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria and they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place.
After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (On Board Diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems.
Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult.
Many early warning lights of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An oxygen sensor was one of the things that was meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights" which are set up to come on after a pre-set mileage.
Great question and good answer above. There is one thing to add however. On my 2004 Buick for example I am required to manually reset the "check oil" light myself every time I get an oil change. This ensures that the system understands the condition the oil is in. If/when I do not reset it, not long after my expected date the light goes on by default as a reminder.
Your instruction manual would outline this. Mine for example is simply...
1. Insert key
2. Turn key to ON, without engaging engine (just before the engine cranks, and leave key there)
3. When placed to ON, press and depress the brake slowly 5 times in 5 seconds.
4. Turn key to off.
5. Turn key and start engine.
The check engine light is now reset, if it returns shortly it is an actual issue, rather then a reminder.
Some Ford Mondeos have a 'Service interval expired' warning light. It is pretty much the same as the "check oil" light mentioned in the answer above.
On that type of Ford Mondeo there is a small hole in the display screen in front of the 'Service interval expired' warning light. To reset it, just turn the ignition key until the all warning lights come on but do not start the engine. Then press a tiny button in the warning light display panel by poking a straightened metal paper clip through the hole. If you hold it steady for 10 seconds whilst keeping the ignition on, the warning light goes out. It will come on again when the service time period again expires.
open the end gate remove the hold down screws and carefullt remove the taillight assembly
The 4 cylinder has a timing belt , the V6 engines use a timing chain
Ford usually discontinues offering pre-bent brake lines for vehicles more than five years old. After that, you have to do what is done for almost all other vehicles: buy steel brake tubing and bend, cut, and flare it yourself.
If available, try to get the "unkinkable" brake tubing. This tubing has a plastic coating (usually green) and has an odd shape to the hole running it's length which makes it very easy to bend without kinking it. A kinked line is worthless.
To do the bending, cutting, and flaring, you will need special tools for the job. These tools are usually available from the local parts store for a total less than $50 US. These are a tubing cutter, a bender (if using regular kinky tubing) and a flaring tool (double flaring tool for fractional tubing or bubble flaring for metric as needed.)
If you bring a sample of the old line (including the flare nut) to the parts store with you they will be able to identify the correct size (usually 3/16 inch or 4.75 mm, but possibly 1/4 inch) of line and type of flaring tool that you need. Buy extra line. Line is cheap, and if you're using regular (gray steel) line, you'll probably screw it up the first time.
Do not forget to bleed your brakes at all four wheels after replacing line.
Oh, yeah, and if brake fluid dripping in your eyes and mouth annoys you, get a stick to hold the brake pedal at least slightly down so the brake lights stay on. Fluid will stop dripping. If concerned about draining the battery using the brake lights, disconnect the negative battery cable.
*** IMPROVED answer: Inline Tube in Michigan makes stainless steel pre-bent brake lines. www.inlinetube.com
WITH FILTER CHANGE : 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine - 4 quarts ( 3.8 liters ) 3.0 L V6 engine - 4.5 quarts ( 4.3 liters ) 4.0 L V6 engine - 5.0 quarts ( 4.7 liters ) according to the owners manual WITH FILTER CHANGE : 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine - 4 quarts ( 3.8 liters ) 3.0 L V6 engine - 4.5 quarts ( 4.3 liters ) 4.0 L V6 engine - 5.0 quarts ( 4.7 liters ) according to the owners manual
I don't know the newer fuel injected engines that well, but the timing setup should be the same. Your best bet would be to pick up a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the directions.
Read about how to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke for the #1 piston. You start from there. The timing mark on the cam gear must also be aligned with the pointer on the engine block under the timing cover.
If you pull the distributor cap you can verify that the rotor contact is at the #1 post to be sure you have TDC on the compression stroke.
Then you release the spring tensioner pulley under the timing cover with a large prybar or screwdriver and install the new belt.
Turn the crank pulley clockwise with the tranny in neutral and the e-brake on to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up again.
Good luck. It's not that hard, just methodical.
Its not as easy as that!You also need to take off the crankshaft pulley in order to put the belt onto the sprocket on the crank shaft.Also you cant simply turn your crank until the rotor aligns with #1 wire terminal , because if the belt is broken then the rotor wont turn , this is because the oil pump sprocket is independent from the crank sprocket, the oil pump sprocket is what turns your distributor.You can still turn the rotor manually though.
Unless it is a DIS ignition. Then you don't have to worry about the rotor. However DO NOT use anything but a harmonic balancer puller (i know it should go without saying..but...) because if it is a DIS then the Harmonic Balancer has very thin fins on it for the CPS. Once you get TDC and the balancer off..the new belt will slide right on and then reverse the steps
Just a minor point here, the 1990 2.3 will be a DIS.
My 1986 Mitchell manual shows a TFI module in the wiring diagram which would indicate the presence of a distributor. My 1990 Ranger is a DIS system so somewhere between 1986 and 1990 Ford went to DIS.
No. Rear wheel drive or 4wd
the way i did it was put a long piece of garden hose on a funnel, run it down through the motor on the drivers side and have someone pour as i held the hose to the hole, seem to get the job done
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