Ford Ranger

Ford Ranger refers to the two distinct lineages of pickup trucks sold by the Ford Motor Company. The first line of Ford Ranger vehicles are sold only in the North America, while the second one are designed and engineered in Japan for the international market.

12,637 Questions
Cars & Vehicles
Ford Taurus
Ford Ranger

What are causes for no-heat problems in a Ford Taurus - blowing cold or lukewarm air only?

These are common causes of 'no-heat' when the coolant is flowing:

  1. Blocked / plugged heater core

    To check - confirm that both heater hoses going into the firewall are warm. If only one is warm, likely there is a blockage and the core will have to be flushed and/or replaced.

  2. Temperature blend door is stuck in the cold air position
    • The door itself is binding and not able to pivot.
    • The blend door actuator has failed - see "Related Links" below for the online repair guide to replacing the blend door actuator / motor. It's only about $15.
  3. Water pump - (see way down below) The water pump kind of self destructs on the inside without leaking out the weep hole. The fins just fall apart and you lose heat for your heater and the engine will overheat too.

If your Taurus is only blowing cold air:

Check the level of your anti-freeze, and make sure that its level is normal.....

1. Open the front hood....

2. Look at the anti-freeze storage tank (white plastic tank on the left side of the engine compartment as you face the front of the car). Check to see where the level is and make sure that it is in the recommended temp zone of Hot or Cold.

3. If the anti-freeze level is in the recommended zone, then the thermostat might be shut closed and not letting the fluid flow freely to the engine. If this is the case, the thermostat has to be replaced. But if the thermostat is stuck, the engine will be overheating anyway, and you'd see the temperature gauge on the dashboard getting up to a dangerous level.

More input from WikiAnswers contributors:

  • I just bought a 99 Sable and was told by the seller that the heater core needed to be replaced. The cost being $500. My beloved mechanic that I have brought my 97 Status to for the last few years said that the core didn't need to be replaced, the core was so clogged that they had to flush it twice, which saved me $350. Unless you absolutely trust your mechanic like I do... $350 difference.. We were both expecting a replacement... ask for the heater core to be flushed before jumping to a replacement. Always check for clogs.
  • Check how high the temp gauge goes. if it doesn't go above 1/3 of the gauge, change the thermostat or check the tap unit on the firewall.
  • If the engine comes up to proper temperature: - The heater core might be plugged. Pull the 2 hoses off the heater core on the firewall, then take a garden hose and flush all the muck out of the heater core, and you might then have heat. - The blend air door might not be opening all the way. Check under the hood near the blower motor--there is a vacuum line there, check to see if it's getting vacuum.
  • If you flush the heater core and rust comes out, this is usually the water pump's impellers/fins/blades having rusted and broken up, so you should replace the water pump too or the heater core may become clogged again. For some reason, many water pumps are made of a metal that rusts (it's about the only metal that rusts in the entire cooling system), though you may be able to find replacement water pumps that don't have rustable impellers.
  • It could be a bad temp blend door actuator, or I have see a lot of those getting rust in the cooling system and clogging up the heater core.
  • I'm assuming it did this before you changed the thermostat too. If not, maybe you installed the thermostat upside down. If all is well I'd suspect your heater control valve. As I recall it's vacuum operated so check the vacuum line for cracks/breaks. etc.
  • You might wanna think about replacing your heater core. I've had this in the past and it meant the heater core died. After replacing it, it worked just fine. It can die without blowing anti-freeze foul smelling smoke everywhere. That just means it cracked. i get warm air, but LOTS of smoke lol. It could also be that your water is not circulating right. Have you checked your water level? If you do not have a full radiator, it will NOT blow hot air. I've had many problems with cars in my life. Any more questions on Taurus/Sable, feel free to ask me.
  • First, flushing heater cores rarely works. The passages are too small. We just replace them. Further, even if you do flush out the core, if you don't flush out the rest of the system, the core gets stopped back up the first time you start the engine up again. Another possibility is that, if the system is or was rusty, the impellers could be rusted off the back of the water pump, and you have insufficient coolant circulation. We see a lot of that here. Another thing that could be your problem, is that you have a temp blend door stuck or the motor that runs the temp blend door is faulty. The dash has to be removed to access either of those two things.
  • Are you saying the blower motor does not work? If so, then the blower motor, fan switch, temperature blend door, or the resistor pack is bad, or a fuse is blown.
  • If you have checked the temperature of the heater hoses and it appears that heat is being delivered to the core, the problem is most likely with the air flow through the core, not the core itself. The air flow is controlled by the temperature blend door, and this door has a history of failure on the Taurus and Sable. Replacing the door is a fairly involved process and expensive at the dealer. There is a DIY system from HeaterTreater that will help you with the diagnostics and fix. Check for pictures and information. We have a video posted in the Tech section that will show you how to disassemble the center dash console and check for blend door problems. It is a common failure on the Taurus/Sable for this door to break and fall to the bottom of the box, blocking heat. The HeaterTreater is an innovative method to extract the old door and replace it with a metal door that will not break again. The advantage is that it is not necessary to remove the dash and plenum box to do the fix. Full details are on the site.

The video posted on the HeaterTreater web site in the TECH section will show you how to access and diagnose blend door problems without removing the dash panel. You do have to remove the center instrument console to get a good view of the plenum box. The hardest part is pulling the radio. It requires a special tool to release the catches on both sides of the radio. You can purchase the tool at any auto parts store or make your own out of a piece of heavy wire bent into a U shape. Or...find your local car thief, they can pull one in seconds!!!

The other thing you want to be sure of is that there is no air trapped in the coolant system. On a cold engine remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. If air is trapped in the system, it will affect engine cooling efficiency and the HVAC system.

  • You may have a stuck temp blend door in the heater case or the motor that runs it may be faulty. To access either of those items, the dash needs to be removed. The heater core could be clogged, that's what happened on our '98 Taurus SE. Also check the coolant levels and see if it needs to be flushed or topped off.
  • Various cars have various ways of making hot and cold air. Most everyone uses a set of air vanes to switch between hot and cold. Some cars keep the A/C on in the defrost setting. Bottom line here is that it sounds like your A/C clutch is not turning off and the cold air is outdoing the warm air.
  • On mine, the heat stopped working and I replaced the thermostat and the heater core was replaced, and it turned out that it was the water pump. Try replacing that. It worked on mine. I even went as far as replacing the radio console.
  • The first place I would look is the heater core. My own experience tells me that yours might be clogged. If you have hot water going in and coming out of it but no warm air flow, then I would start there. Until you confirm whether or not the core is clogged then you are wasting time and effort trying to solve this one.
  • The good news is that it might open up with an acid flush. I tried that with my Taurus and had some success with it. I did eventually have the core replaced. They are aluminum and hate it when you have an open cooling system (mine was open due to a cracked reservoir that I didn't know about). Corrosion and mineral deposits get in there and kill the coolant flow. This is why using distilled water for your antifreeze/water mix is preferred over tap water. I hope this puts you on the right path to solve this one.
  • What both of your problems probably are is a clogged heater core, it happened to me and upon investigating I found out it was ridiculously common for that make and year range of Taurus to get its heater core clogged up with rust. Ford even put in a bypass on the heater system so that the whole cooling system wouldn't get clogged. What you want to do is let the car run, then locate the two hoses that go into the top middle of the firewall, just below the windshield--most likely one will be hot, which would be the input to the heater core, and the other cold, the heater core's output. If both are cold, it may be because the core is clogged.
  • I have a 97 Taurus GL Wagon that has the same symptoms. I have been searching for the solution for a few days now and hope we can figure this out soon or my wife will not be too happy. Is it possible that the vacuum lines that control the heater are not working? When I replaced my stereo 3 years ago I remember that all the controls were vacuum lines. However I am not sure where they get the vacuum from. When I change the settings it seems to make the same noise as always. it sometimes will start heating then quit after a while or when you turn off the car then turn it back on. Is this also something new to Ford's Taurus or maybe I find it strange that so many people have the same problem but I have not seen the answer online anwhere yet. I have solved a few problems online and hope this one is the same. Good luck and I will keep hunting for an answer. I will check back to see if we can figure this out.
  • No heat can also be caused by blown engine head gaskets. This messes with coolant flow through the system, preventing enough coolant from flowing through the heater core. But if one or both of your head gaskets are blown, your car will have other symptoms, such as smoke coming from the tailpipe (oil mixing with the water), overheating, etc.
  • There's a door under the dash that directs air over the heater core. If it is broken then you will not get heat but you will still have A/C. To fix it you will have to take the dash apart.
  • Check heater blower fuse and blower motor; coolant level; heater hose from radiator to heater core, and from heater core to water pump, for water shutoff both hoses should get warm with engine running and temp selector on hot.
  • I have a 2001 Ford Taurus and have the same problem. When I consulted a Ford dealership they ask me if the coolant was brown and yes indeed the water looked more like mud water than the usual green anti-freeze. They told me that it is very common for the Taurus heater core to get blocked and that was more than likely what was going on. I flushed the system with no results because the heater core involves removing the dash to access, and the dealer book shows that job in the 6 hour range. I'm going to try all other options before I replace the heater core but that might be the only solution, besides winter is coming soon.
  • Taurus heater cores are well-known for clogging - especially if something along the lines of "stop-leak" was ever poured in the radiator, or the radiator has not been serviced regularly.
  • One solution is to flush the heater core - this can be done by disconnecting the heater core hoses at the firewall and simply flushing it with a garden hose and nozzle. However, you should also do a more complete flush, which would include the engine too, since there may be rust in its coolant passages too, which may re-clog the heater core if you don't clean it out. Otherwise take it to a shop and have this done.
  • Your heater core is probably clogged. To fix this remove both hoses that go to the heater core, they would look similar to radiator hoses, but smaller diameter. Then run water through both ways until the water runs through clean. That may fix your problem.
  • If there is no air at all blowing, then check the fuse for the heating. If the fuse is good, replace the blower motor. If there is air, just no heat, replace the heater core. You will find the core on the passenger side of the dash panel.
  • Either there is a vacuum leak going to the Heater Control Valve, or the heater core is blocked, or heater hoses blocked, or NO thermostat or it's stuck open. OR the mixer/blend door actuator is bad or disconnected.
  • The cooling system is pretty straightforward in how it works, so it is possible that the 'wire' that links the 'temperature-control' on the dash board to the 'interior heater unit' broke or became disconnected (at one end or the other) while last being in the 'Cold' position. Does the 'temperature control' knob or handle for the temperature seem easier to move than previously? That may be an indication of that situation just described. This isn't usually a quick fix item as, unless you can locate both ends of the controlling wire, you'll have to get into the dashboard or floor board to fix it. The floor board may be your starting spot as it may be more accessible. Second thought is that your internal heater has become plugged up significantly. That could have to be due to adding over-the-counter 'STOP-LEAK' type chemicals to the cooling system, but this is a somewhat 'remote' probability. However, if you haven't done a coolant flush since the car was built in 1999, there could be rust and other build up within the coolant system to certainly at least restrict the flow of coolant to the heater. However, if you haven't noticed a gradual loss of heating over the years, my bet is on the control linkage I spoke of. Good Luck.
  • The thermostat may be stuck and need replacing. Also, this is pretty rare, but if the car is older, and the coolant has not been changed per specs, sometimes the vanes in the water pump may corrode and fall off. That causes a reduced coolant flow and can get expensive real quick Replacing the water pump is something the do-it-yourselfer can usually do, unless you want to keep a dealer service dept happy. But replacing the water pump is probably the last thing to try, though even if it appears unnecessary, it may be worth it in the long run if the water pump has 100,000 or more miles on it, since it will need to be replaced soon anyway.
  • We own a 1997 Taurus GL Sedan and have had our own issues with the heater. Based on that, here is what you are most likely looking at: a clogged heater core. The good news is that you might get lucky and have it cured by doing an acid flush of the cooling system. The bad news is you may have to have the heater core replaced. That is an expensive fix as most of the cost is in labor to having to disassemble the dash and firewall to get to the core itself.
  • If you know any mechanics, you are in luck. Hopefully one whose life you saved and he owes you big time. I don't know if I would call this a do-it-yourself job, it may depend on your skill level under the hood. I bit the bullet and had my local dealer do the core swap for me. Final damage: $2160.86
  • I am also trying to solve no heat issue in 99 Sable. New water pump, thermostat, heater core, replaced corroded steel lines leading to core. No heat still. Just wanted to let you all know, the heater core job can be done in 2 hours or less if you check out on google video, search heater core shortcut. The vehicle shown is a Taurus, but twin of the Sable. I actually did as he shows in video and it sure was easier than the water pump job. I did find that to pull the core it helps to push the inlet pipes from inside the engine compartment to pop the seal on the rubber grommets holding them in place, then allowing you to actually pull on the no longer recessed core from the inside of the car.

Other Ideas & a water pump culprit:

It could be a lot really. Heater core stopped up?

Have you checked the thermostat?

If your Taurus - Sable has 150,000 or more miles on it, you may need a water pump. They wear out. They have fins on them and I have a 2000 Taurus and was what was wrong with mine. The water pump kind of self-destructs on the inside without leaking out the weep hole. The fins just fall apart and you lose heat for your heater and the engine will overheat too.

Please refer to the related questions for more information.

Head Gaskets and Valve Covers
Ford Ranger

What is the approximate cost of replacing a blown head gasket?

The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn?t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4?s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XL
Ford Ranger XLT

How much oil goes in a 1998 ford ranger?

Where is oil sending unit 1999 2.5 xlt ford ranger

Ford Explorer
Ford Ranger

How do you replace the lights in the dash of 1991 through 2001 Ford Explorer all models?

* Remove the screws from the top of the instrument panel. Set the parking brake and pull the shift lever down to improve access. Rotate the instrument panel to gain access to the back. The black bulb holders house the panel lights, the tan bulb holders house the sensor lights. Reach behind and grip the back of one of the holders. Twist it counter clockwise and pull outwards. Burned out bulbs will have a black coating. Replace with an identical bulb (194). * I recommend replacing all bulbs while it is out (they all went in at the same time, they are all likely to burn out about the same time) Check the link below for Auto Zone directions to remove the Instrument Panel

Car Sounds
Ford Ranger
Ford Windstar GL

What would cause a squealing sound if it is not the brakes or belts?

I have THE answer. You have defective bearings in your Distributor shaft. It is a $300 part. I spent a few hundred dollars and with the help of two very persistent mechanics they found the problem. I know what you are going through. It sounds like a belt. The squealing may even cause your van to shut off, especially when idling. If this is the case, be sure that it is the distributor shaft.basilThe type of vehicle and more information is needed to answer this question, unless you have a parts "shotgun".

What kind of car? engine size? If there is a tensioner and it is weak, it help the belt to squeal. Spray anything wet on the belt -- does the noise stop? If you e the idle without moving will the noise start? Need more info.

This could also be caused by power steering system. Check for leaking tank, low fluid etc.

Have you checked the wheel bearings?

If its not your belts and you got them replaced its possible that your water pump is starting to go.

If you did not get the noise fixed yet, you might want to check on the pulleys where the drive belt is installed and/or the water pump. Pulleys make a high pitch noise when they are worn out either when you first start the engine or during acceleration. Water pump also makes the same noise. Check the little hole above or under the pump, if there is a sign of water/coolant coming out of the hole, your water pump needs a replacement. I hope this can help you.

could also be worth considering your "clutch, thrust bearing", sounds painful I know, not a major job though in the right hands.

In addition to the above, Tires could, PCV valve if not replaced properly on certain engines, alternater.

if its from the rear it could be a fuel pump if your car is efi

Alternator answer could be bearings wearing out in alternator, a/d compressor,or any other pulleywheel on engine.could also be dry thrust bearing in clutch.need more information, does the noise go away when engine is reved does it get worse if you use a/c,does it happen when stationary or when moving


it could be the cylanders

or you could have a mouse in your car.

i recommend you get a cat


My daughter's car had this problem

It ws in deed the distributer. The price wasn't too bad from autozone. $175 remanufactured plus core charge. The local mechanic charge $20 to install it


I agree with the first answer put down, i have an old car but brakes n wheels seemed fine, there was a problem with the cv shaft, it will cost between 300-400 to fix, i got it reconditioned and my care doesnt make a sound when i brake

Auto Parts and Repairs
Transmissions and Drivetrains
Ford Ranger
Late Model 1979-New Ford Mustangs

Can you change a manual transmission to automatic and about how much does it usually cost?

Not knowing the make or the model it is impossible to guess. Generally you would have to change the radiator, run the transmission lines and change out flywheel and possibly driveshaft.

With older cars (early hydramatics, for example), you do not have to change the radiator and there ae no transmission lines, but in addition to changing the flywheel and driveshaft, you also have to add the linkage to the carburetor.

You might need to change the ECM (computer) and you may be able to put in an oil cooler instead of changing the radiator.

Another way to go would be to contact your local automotive junk yard and purchase a wrecked vehicle that is the same as yours except automatic. The vehicle would need to be damaged in a way that doesn't effect the parts you are interested in. You would then have everything needed to swap over including peddle assembly, steering column or console, linkages, wiring, switches, crossmember, flywheel, driveshaft, correct speedometer gears, cooling lines, radiator and so on.

Ford Ranger
Timing Belts and Chains
Ford Laser

Camshaft timing marks for a Ford Laser?

Timing marks for twin cam 1.6L B6 engine. When crank pulley is at TDC on the compression stroke, 'E' & 'I' on the camshaft pulleys should be at 12 o'clock. Too easy.

Transmission Fluid
Ford Ranger
Ford Escort LX

What Type of transmission fluid for a 2001 ford escort SE 2.0?

It takes Mercon ATF.

Ford Ranger

How do you change the oil on a 2008 Ford Ranger?

First take off the oil cap under the hood. Under the truck, about center between the seats, you'll find the oil pan and the drain plug. with you oil catch pan right under the plug, unscrew the plug. An adjustable wrench should do the job. When the oil is down to about a drop a second, close it back up. move your catch pan towards the driver side under the oil filter. The filter can be taken off from under the hood either by hand or with a strap wrench. Leave the old filter on the catch pan upside down so it can drain. Put in your new filter in, just past hand tight and refill the oil (about 4 quarts). idle the engine for a minute or two, turn it off and check the oil level again. Don't forget to put the oil cap back on!

Car Fuses and Wiring
Ford Taurus
Ford Ranger
Ford Expedition XLT

Where can you find a fuse panel diagram for a 1996-2005 Ford Taurus?

== == == == There are 2 fuse boxes / fuse panels in nearly every Ford product: one directly above the driver's left foot (when the driver is actually sitting in the driver's seat). The other is inside the engine compartment, on the right side - contains high current fuses.

The Owners Manuals have detailed illustrations and information regarding the two fuse box / panels, and the various vehicle systems each fuse connects to. Keep reading for information & links to free online sources of Owners Manuals for 1996+ Ford & Mercury products information.

Most fuse boxes and power distribution boxes have a cover or access plate over them. Usually, on the inside of this cover or plate is a pictorial diagram of the layout of all the fuse locations in that particular box. Each fuse or circuit breaker position will be labeled on that diagram. Sometimes the actual base plastic of the box has the description printed by each fuse in it. (These can be very hard to read). Good luck! The fuse diagram is in the owners' manual. However, it is incomplete and ambiguous. Using terms like GEM and ICP. Nowhere, by the way, does it explain where the fuse for the parking and running lights is located. Also, a lot of the chassis electrical run through the "GEM", the Generic Electronic Module. This is the "black box" that only the dealer can diagnose! I have had all of the running lights and parking lights go out on my 2001 Sable, and have found NOTHING on the web that can help me. Looks like we are destined to take the car to the dealer where they will use their magic boxes to diagnose the problem. == == == == = = Ford makes all the Owners Manuals for their entire lineup, 1996 and newer, available online:

Another source is the Motorcraft website. See "Related Links" below has links to online Owners Manuals for other manufacturers.

See "Related Links" below

Autozone also has online diagrams of the fuse box / panels. See "Related Links" below This is an accurate fuse diagram based on the factory number location.

Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XLT

How many miles to a gallon does a ford ranger get?

This is a really uneducated question. It's like asking, "how much does a bird weigh?" The Ranger had many different engines, transmissions, and body styles over the years. A mid- 2000s Ranger came with a 4 cyl engine, and two different 6-cyl engines. You have to be much more specific when you ask a question.

Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XL
Ford Ranger XLT

Can ford ranger rims fit on a dodge caravan?

yes if it is an older dodge. pattern is 5x114.3 15"

Ford Ranger

How do you remove starter from a 1998 ford ranger?

you have to go to the car fix to remove it

Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XL

How long is a 99 ranger long bed?


Ford Ranger
Chevy 305

How many wheels are there in the world?

you should know im trying to find out and i cant find anything im only 9!

Ford Ranger
Heater Cores and Blower Fans

How do you rebuild a heater blower motor?

Usually this is not cost or time effective.

  1. Remove from vehicle including removing fan
  2. Mark the split on the body of the motor so you can properly align it when re assembling.
  3. Remove fasteners, most are riveted so you will have to drill these out.
  4. Replace the bushings and brushes. These are not order-able by application so will need to be matched
  5. Find long machine screws to replace your rivets
  6. Reassemble
Ford Ranger
Chevy Silverado
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Ford Bronco XLT

How do you replace a heater core in a 1993 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 manual transmission 2WD?

If it's similar to the 1994, it's pretty easy. The heater core sits on the passenger side inside the cab, and there will be two hoses running through the firewall. It should just be a simple matter of disconnecting the heater hoses, and removing whatever mounting bracket is holding it in place (screws or bolts). I replaced mine with a borrowed tool kit in about 10-15 minutes in a Suburban Lodge parking lot in Charlotte, NC back in 2000. I've always wanted to tell someone that story. Seriously, it won't be that difficult, just have a bucket to catch the little bit of antifreeze from the hoses.

It's one of the easiest cores to replace that I have encountered. Disconnect heater hoses at firewall. Probably doesn't matter about hose placement, but I always mark them just in case. To remove the fiber cover under dash, take a flatblade screwdriver and prise out the center pin of the expansion clips that hold it in place. There are four 5/16 head screws that hold the bottom/drain tray cover. Core will pull through the firewall and then down. You may have to silicone/glue or replace the foam seal strips on the new core. Before you install the core, check the distance between the inlet and outlet tubes to ensure they match the openings in the firewall. This saves time. It helps if you have someone on the outside to guide you when stabbing the tubes through the firewall. Replace bottom cover. You may have to hold one of the tubes when reinstalling the first hose to the core. Replace any lost coolant and check for leaks prior to reinstalling the fiber cover. If the cover seal is in good condition, any leak should drain through the firewall, otherwise it may leak inside cab. These days with parts from Mexico and others, it is not uncommon to get a new defective part.

Oxygen Sensors
Ford Ranger
Honda Civic
Check Engine Light

Why does the check engine light come on and how do you reset it?

The "check engine light" is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. It is a good thing once you understand it.


The " check engine light" is also known as a malfunction indicator light (MIL). You can disconnect the battery red lead for about 5 min and it will reset. However, if there is a hard fault, it will come back on.


Disconnecting the battery won't do the trick on OBD 2 vehicles.


Without a scan tool designed to reset the electronic control module (ecm) a do-it-your-selfer can't reset the check engine light.

Pull the codes from the computer using an OBD (II) code reader. Match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source of the fault. After you have repaired the fault, the light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.


One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap.

But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria and they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place.

After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (On Board Diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems.

Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult.

Many early warning lights of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An oxygen sensor was one of the things that was meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights" which are set up to come on after a pre-set mileage.


Great question and good answer above. There is one thing to add however. On my 2004 Buick for example I am required to manually reset the "check oil" light myself every time I get an oil change. This ensures that the system understands the condition the oil is in. If/when I do not reset it, not long after my expected date the light goes on by default as a reminder.

Your instruction manual would outline this. Mine for example is simply...

1. Insert key

2. Turn key to ON, without engaging engine (just before the engine cranks, and leave key there)

3. When placed to ON, press and depress the brake slowly 5 times in 5 seconds.

4. Turn key to off.

5. Turn key and start engine.

The check engine light is now reset, if it returns shortly it is an actual issue, rather then a reminder.


Some Ford Mondeos have a 'Service interval expired' warning light. It is pretty much the same as the "check oil" light mentioned in the answer above.

On that type of Ford Mondeo there is a small hole in the display screen in front of the 'Service interval expired' warning light. To reset it, just turn the ignition key until the all warning lights come on but do not start the engine. Then press a tiny button in the warning light display panel by poking a straightened metal paper clip through the hole. If you hold it steady for 10 seconds whilst keeping the ignition on, the warning light goes out. It will come on again when the service time period again expires.

Ford Ranger

How do you access ford ranger tail light?

open the end gate remove the hold down screws and carefullt remove the taillight assembly

Ford Ranger

Does a 93 ford ranger have a timing belt?

The 4 cylinder has a timing belt , the V6 engines use a timing chain

Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XL
Ford Ranger XLT

92 ford ranger brake lines?

Ford usually discontinues offering pre-bent brake lines for vehicles more than five years old. After that, you have to do what is done for almost all other vehicles: buy steel brake tubing and bend, cut, and flare it yourself.

If available, try to get the "unkinkable" brake tubing. This tubing has a plastic coating (usually green) and has an odd shape to the hole running it's length which makes it very easy to bend without kinking it. A kinked line is worthless.

To do the bending, cutting, and flaring, you will need special tools for the job. These tools are usually available from the local parts store for a total less than $50 US. These are a tubing cutter, a bender (if using regular kinky tubing) and a flaring tool (double flaring tool for fractional tubing or bubble flaring for metric as needed.)

If you bring a sample of the old line (including the flare nut) to the parts store with you they will be able to identify the correct size (usually 3/16 inch or 4.75 mm, but possibly 1/4 inch) of line and type of flaring tool that you need. Buy extra line. Line is cheap, and if you're using regular (gray steel) line, you'll probably screw it up the first time.

Do not forget to bleed your brakes at all four wheels after replacing line.

Oh, yeah, and if brake fluid dripping in your eyes and mouth annoys you, get a stick to hold the brake pedal at least slightly down so the brake lights stay on. Fluid will stop dripping. If concerned about draining the battery using the brake lights, disconnect the negative battery cable.

*** IMPROVED answer: Inline Tube in Michigan makes stainless steel pre-bent brake lines.

Ford Ranger

What is the oil capacity for a 2006 ford ranger?

WITH FILTER CHANGE : 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine - 4 quarts ( 3.8 liters ) 3.0 L V6 engine - 4.5 quarts ( 4.3 liters ) 4.0 L V6 engine - 5.0 quarts ( 4.7 liters ) according to the owners manual WITH FILTER CHANGE : 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine - 4 quarts ( 3.8 liters ) 3.0 L V6 engine - 4.5 quarts ( 4.3 liters ) 4.0 L V6 engine - 5.0 quarts ( 4.7 liters ) according to the owners manual

Ford Ranger
Timing Belts and Chains
Ford Ranger XLT

How do you change the timing belt on a 1990 Ford Ranger manual transmission 2.3 Liter 4-cylinder vehicle?

I don't know the newer fuel injected engines that well, but the timing setup should be the same. Your best bet would be to pick up a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the directions.

Read about how to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke for the #1 piston. You start from there. The timing mark on the cam gear must also be aligned with the pointer on the engine block under the timing cover.

If you pull the distributor cap you can verify that the rotor contact is at the #1 post to be sure you have TDC on the compression stroke.

Then you release the spring tensioner pulley under the timing cover with a large prybar or screwdriver and install the new belt.

Turn the crank pulley clockwise with the tranny in neutral and the e-brake on to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up again.

Good luck. It's not that hard, just methodical.

Its not as easy as that!You also need to take off the crankshaft pulley in order to put the belt onto the sprocket on the crank shaft.Also you cant simply turn your crank until the rotor aligns with #1 wire terminal , because if the belt is broken then the rotor wont turn , this is because the oil pump sprocket is independent from the crank sprocket, the oil pump sprocket is what turns your distributor.You can still turn the rotor manually though.

Unless it is a DIS ignition. Then you don't have to worry about the rotor. However DO NOT use anything but a harmonic balancer puller (i know it should go without saying..but...) because if it is a DIS then the Harmonic Balancer has very thin fins on it for the CPS. Once you get TDC and the balancer off..the new belt will slide right on and then reverse the steps

Just a minor point here, the 1990 2.3 will be a DIS.

My 1986 Mitchell manual shows a TFI module in the wiring diagram which would indicate the presence of a distributor. My 1990 Ranger is a DIS system so somewhere between 1986 and 1990 Ford went to DIS.

Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XL
Ford Ranger XLT

Does ford make a front wheel drive ranger?

No. Rear wheel drive or 4wd

Transmission Fluid
Ford Ranger
Ford Ranger XLT

How do you add transmission fluid to a standard 1996 ford ranger?

the way i did it was put a long piece of garden hose on a funnel, run it down through the motor on the drivers side and have someone pour as i held the hose to the hole, seem to get the job done


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