They are bolted from the inside of the door.
you could have a solid miss or something out of balance like hamonic balancer or bent pulleys bad belt or vaccum leak check spark plugs and vaccum lines first
they will always miss because the engines cold idle is still keeping the engine at that speed until the engine becomes warm enough the moment you touch the pedal it brings the rpm off cold idle to warm which is a lot lower
Remove the lower dash panel in the drivers side it will be in the right of the steering coluum. == ==
The firing order for this engine is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The cylinders are 1-3-5 from left to right on the back head, and 2-4-6 from left to right on the front head. The coil pack is 1-4-6-3-2-5 from left to right when viewing from the front of the car.
First locate the valve cover. If the motor is a 4 cylinder there will only be one valve cover. If it is a 'v6' it will have two as well as v8 automobiles. With a Socket wrench and extention locate the valve cover bolts that go around the cover bolting it to the top of the engine (cylinder head.) Usually the valve cover will have the 'Oil Filler' cap on it. (Where you add oil to the engine...) With the correct size socket remove the bolts that hold down the valve cover. Lift the valve cover up and away from the cylinder head. You may need to strike it with a soft mallet to get it to release. Once it's off you will see the rockers/springs. Be careful to keep the old gasket debrey from entering the rocker valley. With a razer scrap all remaining gasket from the cylinder head. Some gaskets have an "UP" side so make sure you look over your gasket for any indicators. Then apply your new gasket. Then put your valve cover back on carefully so your new gasket does not move. Slide the bolts back into place and tighten from the middle out. Tighten the bolts until they just about snug then move to the next opposing bolt. So Center, Bottom Center, Left, Bottom Left, Right, Bottom Right etc. Once they are all snug go back and turn the wrench another half turn to tighten them up. *Do Not Over Tighten The Bolts.* or damnage to the gasket or bolt breakage may occur. If oil leaks from the cover check for loose bolts or gasket breakage.
Edit by Loosenut: Torque spec is 12lbs. for the valve cover bolts.
The lower intake is 10 ft lbs the upper is 18ft lbs. If you go to autozone.com and read there specifaction area its listed there. That's were I found it!
on the emergancy brake lever there is an electrical switch, just unplug it they will go off and your fog lights will still work.
4.5 quarts with a new filter.
The thermostat could be stuck closed, or the radiator fan may not be working. I would recommend if your Beretta is not working I would take it into a shop to take a look at it, as they do have two sensors one for the fan and one for the temperature gauge.
Follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine and there is the thermostat housing. Make sure when you reinstall it the spring goes toward the engine.
fallow the upper radiator hose to the engine and that should lead right into the thermostat housing is pretty hard to get at i had to bring mine to a local mechanic
Just follow the upper radiator to the thermostat housing. Very easy to get at!! No need to take it to a garage!
I am not exactly sure on the 1990 model, but on 93-97 it is located on the transmission next to the firewall aprox 20 inches below the brake master cylinder. Remove the air cleaner, there is a diagonally positioned bracket w/ 2ea. 10mm bolts and a ground wire that must removed for access. It is held on by a 10mm bolt which is easily removed with a 24" extension and 10mm socket. The VSS is difficult to see and will need to be rotated w/ tools and a wire lasso to provide vertical lift. The removal process can take several hours and a great deal of patience.
Very awkward and messy. Start by removing the panel under the dash on the passenger side. You will need a regular Phillips screwdriver and a snubby 2-3" Phillips later. Also get a 1/4" socket set. First thing, go under the car and remove the heater hoses from the firewall and twist out the drin spiggot. Then go back inside the car. The heater core sits under the radio. Under the core is a tray used to catch the leaking antifreeze and drain it out the firewall. You need to remove this tray. It has 6-8 screws holding it. Once the screws are out it is tricking removing it with the center console in, but it can be done-twist and bend. Then remove the screws holding the core in place and pull out the heater core. One note on the replacement-got mine from Oreilly's for $20-the two lines coming out of the heater core swivel to line up with the holes through the firewall. If you don't swivel them it will never seem to fit. Then reverse the above order, fill up the fluid, bleed the air off and away you go. Took me about 3 hours total in a parking lot. Ruined a shirt, but got it done. You will also cuss being upside down under the dash.
Depending on where the leak is you could use a fuel line repair hose and a few clamps. Auto repair shop have plastic hose repair kits. If any fuel hose is ever used it MUST be fuel injection hose as it will carry a higher pressure.
I assume that the cooling system doesn't leak and holds the factory pressure. (Water boils at higher temps under pressure). Also that the water pump belt has been checked. This requires you to answer a few questions for yourself. When the engine is hot and running, does the cooling fan work? Your car has an electric fan behind the radiator. If it also has A/C, turn on the A/C and look at the fan to see if it's running. I would check the fuse and also the fan relay if it isn't.
Also, you don't say which engine you have, but the 3100 V6 is notorious for developing air pockets in the water jacket if the cooling system is opened (which you would have done when replacing the pump). This will keep the coolant from flowing through the radiator and will cause overheating. There is a small brass bleeder valve on top of the bypass tube that sticks out the top of the water pump housing on this engine - open it slightly by loosening the top "bolt" a couple turns with the engine running (don't remove it, and be careful of the moving belt!); if you don't get a little trickle of coolant out, there's air trapped in your cooling system. With the engine still running, leave the valve open and add coolant until a steady trickle does come out through the valve (not just a little foam). Then close the valve and add enough additional coolant to bring the bottle up to the full line. Work quickly, the engine will get hot fast with the pressure cap off. Good luck.
The 3100 V6 has no radiator cap. It is a sealed system with a pressure cap on the reservoir. Be sure you have enough coolant in the system by filling the coolant reservoir to the max line. Close the cap tightly. Start the engine and turn the heater on. Allow it to reach operating temperature. Looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle, you should see a solid metal coolant line running across the front valve cover. There is a vertical stem attached, with a bleeder screw. Open the bleeder until no air bubbles come out and only coolant comes up. Close the bleeder. Wait a couple minutes. Repeat. Do this as many times as you need to until you are confident that all air is expelled from the cooling system. If you consistently see air coming out of the bleeder, you may have a bad seal on the coolant reservoir cap. It should be replaced ASAP, because it could cause poor engine cooling or coolant back-up/overflow out from under the cap. New caps are available at most auto parts stores or your GM dealer.
the crank sensor is located on the back of the engine aprox. 1 inch above the oil pan. there is one bolt holding it in place, after removing the bolt pull the sensor out installation is reverse
First you have to remove the head. Scrape all the gasket gunk off best you can with a razor blade. If necessary, very carefully use a soft wire brush or steel wool. After that task is completed, make sure the new head gasket is the correct one. (yes parts can be put in the wrong packaging. it happens more often than you probably think) Before the head is put back on, it has to be machined!!! Trust me. If you cut this corner and don't have this done, you will be replacing that gasket again very soon, or worse, cracked head or a cracked block. It is very important that this is done. Most machine shops will do it for anywhere between $25 and $80, depending where you go. Reason this must be done is because the engine block is cast iron and the heads are aluminum. Under high temperatures and over time the aluminum heads warp just a tad bit, since aluminum is a softer metal than cast iron it gives in too much to cause problems later on if the head is not machined to a flat fitting again. A lot of times its best to listen to the old-timers, but in this case you shouldn't. THE HEAD HAS TO BE MACHINED! Well during the process of removing all those bolts and disconnecting things, you should have kept a log of where everything goes and plugs into. Basically just start going in reverse of disassembling the head and componets by putting it all back together. Before you go tightening nuts and bolts, make sure what your supposed to torque everything to according to manufacturer specifications. Remember, get the heads machined before putting them back on. Marshall Dailey from Paris, Illinois wrote this description!
First you have to remove the head. Scrape all the gasket gunk off best you can with a razor blade. If necessary, very carefully use a soft wire brush or steel wool. After that task is completed, make sure the new head gasket is the correct one. (yes parts can be put in the wrong packaging. it happens more often than you probably think) Before the head is put back on, it has to be machined!!! Trust me. If you cut this corner and don't have this done, you will be replacing that gasket again very soon, or worse, cracked head or a cracked block. It is very important that this is done. Most machine shops will do it for anywhere between $25 and $80, depending where you go. Reason this must be done is because the engine block is cast iron and the heads are aluminum. Under high temperatures and over time the aluminum heads warp just a tad bit, since aluminum is a softer metal than cast iron it gives in too much to cause problems later on if the head is not machined to a flat fitting again. A lot of times its best to listen to the old-timers, but in this case you shouldn't. THE HEAD HAS TO BE MACHINED! Well during the process of removing all those bolts and disconnecting things, you should have kept a log of where everything goes and plugs into. Basically just start going in reverse of disassembling the head and componets by putting it all back together. Before you go tightening nuts and bolts, make sure what your supposed to torque everything to according to manufacturer specifications. Remember, get the heads machined before putting them back on.
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
I had a 89 Chevy Corsica that was doing the same thing. I replaced the ECM (Electronic Control Module) and it solved my problem. Your ECM controls your cooling fan by supplying a ground to the cooling fan relay. Something in your ECM has gone bad and it must be replaced. Good luck!
You may have a bad connection in the wiring between the fuse and the fan 2 relay or a poor or coroded connection between the fan 2 relay and the condensor fan motor. Check the grounds also and clean them up also.
Various possibilities including thermostat, low coolant, weak coolant, cylinder head gasket, cylinder head. mine overheated, I needed a new headgasket. FOund out it was because I didn't have any coolant in it. The warning signs are your engine sign will start to turn over to overheating. You should also check to make sure your fan is working. Don't forget the leaking heater core. It will drain the fluid out the firewall as you drive and the next thing you know, you are out of fluid and overheating and can't find a leak! The plastic core connectors to the heater hoses commonly crack and leak. The replacement cores have aluminum connectors! Darn cheap plastic!!
In an owners manual from MOTORLIT.COM
This is the plug and not the switch....The switch inself is located within the transmission.
If the car has a 3spd automatic (TH125) Look on the front (closest to the radiator) driver side of the tranny for a 4 prong plug...this is the TCC plug....
Unplug it and drive the car. If the problem goes away, then you can replace the solenoid or drive it with it unplugged...it WON'T HURT THE TRANNY!! You will suffer on mileage though.
the starter soleniod is the little round thing on top of the starter,on the front of the engine under the exhaust manifold.
thats your knock sensor
ESC is Electronic Spark Control which governs timing.
Various possibilities including thermostat, low coolant, weak coolant, cylinder head gasket, cylinder head. could aso be your electric fan not working leaking heater core!
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