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I pretty sure it doesn't have a speedometer cable, it is electronic.

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'Knocking' is a technical term for fuel igniting too early in the combustion chamber.

It can be resolved by adding anti knock additives to the fuel or by retarding the timing at the relevant revs. Most modern engines have built in knock sensors that do this automatically.

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to install freon in your 98 lumina you will need to purchase the freon (r134a) and a hose kit from your local parts store. from there, locate the low pressure side of your ac system, usually by the radiator, but sometimes next to the condenser. The hose will only fit on one, so if it doesnt fit on the first you find, find the other. Then, with the car running and the ac on full punture the can and allow freon to enter the system.. That's it!

THE 98 WOULD USE R34 AND CAN BE FOUND AT SOME OF THE AUTO PARTS STORES. THEY ALSO SELL A ADAPTER TO SCREW ONTO THE INLET OR SUCTION SIDE OF THE SYSTEM. INSTROCTIONS COME WITH THE FREON

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Vacume up all the water, even in the matting underneth, dry it completely dry towels will pick most of what is left after vaccuming, then dry it in the hot sun for a day so real dry. Then get in the car and have someone with a water hose run osts of water over all the suspected areas if no water enters then tray running your A/C on high for 20 minutes and checking to see if water is coming out of the drain pipe under the car.

I had an Accura 2 years ago with this problem on the passenger side floor it turned out to be three leaks! The moon roof & drain, windshield seal and the body seal between the firepanel and fender apron (car was in anccident but repaired)

Let us not forget clogged sunroof/moonroof drains, improperly grommeted wiring for aftermarket electrical accessories (radio equipment, extra alarms, etc.) corrosion in the floor or fender wells and leaky windshield seals.

3 possibilities,1-the air conditioner has a water drain off hose which could be blocked.2-the heater core could be leaking.3-the windscreen seal could be leakin-only wet when raining

the weatherstripping(the rubber stuff around doors, windshield and such)

i had this problem mate, check the door sill rubber for any holes as it will cause it to leak if not then take off your wing mirror an check the rubber sill behind it as this is a common source that is often over looked.i hope this solves your problem,good luck

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I had this problem on my wife's 1998 Chrysler Sebring convertable. It turned out to be the drain holes on the bottom of the chassis, under the door`. The drains fill up with dust and dirt, then when it rains, it turns to mud and clogs the drain holes. I fixed it by using a paper clip, straightened out, and jamming it up into the drains until water ran out. It seems I've had to do this about once a year or so.

. I also had this problem on a Chevy Corsica. Turns out ther was a crack in the firewall so water running off the windshield that normally would be channeled down the body panel found its way into the car and settled on the driver's side floorboard. Once the crack was located, a little rtv sealant fixed it right up.

Could possibly be a leaking heater core as well!! Use a radiator pressure tester to pressure the system, if the pressure drops, look for the leak, or listen, some times leaks can be heard as escaping water/air.

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Original Equipment Size: 205/70-15

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I replace one of this about 4 month ago. I went from under the dash board make sure you have alot of light you need a metric size 7 mm socket, make sure you have this before you start I kept running to the store.

Remove all the paneling the heater core is closer to the right make sure all the screws are out I missed a few started to pull and broke some plastic of the paneling. I pulled the engine forward to get to the hoses by the firewall make sure that you secure the engine with a 2 x 4 or have someone helping you.

Once everything is loose start maneuvering the core out be careful not to get coolant on your eyes, and by the way completely drain coolant before you start this job. If you don�t chances are you will get an air pocket THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

Good Luck and I hope you are as lucky as I was to have a friend spend the whole day helping out.

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i have a 97 lumina the tranny slips form 2 to 3rd or when you try to go faster is there bands that can just be adjusted???????? or if the tranny going out

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Hi I donno if this will help or not? I own a 1998 Mitsubishi 3000 Gt, its just a standard 2 dr hatch front wheel drive. 3.0L SOHC in excellent condition.. when the mileage turned 98,000. On Oct, 10 2004. The owners manual said it was time to change the timing belt, so I had the timing belt and water pump done. I was told it was best to change the water pump at the same time to save me money in the future as a preventive, because of it being labor intensive,Also I did not use after market parts I had to order The O/E parts from Mitsubishi I also had new NGK platuim plugs and Max-Fire plug wires, ECM dyno tuning, emmssion test, engine coolent replaced, with a radiator flush, and the Fuel Injectors inspected and cleaned, the annual 3500 mile oil change and the air-fliter was changed also, the total cost for this tune up at my local speed shop was $790.54. I'll list out the part and labor cost that I was charged so you can get a run down idea ( Samsons Gargage Treated me very well)

1 O/E Timing Belt ..$104.28 1 O/E water pump.( New! not a rebuilt).. $128.88 NGK platuim long life spark plugs (6)..$13,41 -20% discount Max-fire plug wires(Custom color) LTW..$68,00 Prestone coolent...$ 7.00 Air Hog Air filter..$10,83 Parts Total.. $263.80 Dyno Tuning... $149.00 Sub Total.... $412.80 Labor cost ...$320.00 Plus Tennessee State Tax..$57.54 Grand total.. $790.43

Oil change with fliter.No/charge because of amount of work I had done. This does not include the custom work I had done to the brakes, clibers and rotors. that are HP performance from R&R Racing.. Hey a girl has to stop.. I Ivy

There are many factors. First, is if you are doing it or a shop is doing it. The parts will be more expensive at a shop as they get marked up. The cost of running a auto repair shop is crazy and that is reflected in your bill. Second is the quality of parts your using. If you buy cheesball parts like many from autozone (I hate to single out a company, but the failure rate I have seen warrants this opinion)you will spend less money today, but more when you replace them tommorrow. If you buy quality parts they are more expensive today but you won't have to replace them tommorrow. Thirdly, the phrase "Tune-up" varies. What I would consider a complete tune up is this: Profession fuel injection cleaning $70.00, Throttle bore cleaning and air induction service $50.00, Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter -varies depending on car from $200.00 to $1500.00. For example, A 1996 Chevy caprice with a 4.3l motor if I remember right ran around $800.00 for the cap, rotor wires and labor alone. I would guess around $500.00 for you car.

The tune up by the book will run about $600.00 because of the labor. That's what I got quoted by my Mitsubishi dealer.

**A Special Note about Oil & Filter changes -- the Mitsubishi / Stealth 3.0 engines use a Factory oil filter that has a Check Valve built in --- This prevents Dry starts and rapid engine wear, the check valve is NOT in all aftermarket filters.

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I had this problem a few months ago. You take off the grill-radiator brace strut from above the left front tire to the grill-radiator frame. 3 bolts. You take off the washer reservior. There you see the battery. You unscrew the nuts on the battery retention bolts that run down beside the battery.. That's it.

BE PREPARED TO LOSE YOUR KNUCKLES!

take off the windshield wiper fluid pump to remove

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Check to make sure that the cap is holding the proper pressure, also once the vehicle is warm make sure there is no steam coming from the tailpipe. ( headgasket ) I would have a Block test done to check for exhaust gasses in the cooling system also

a new radiator cap should fix it.small cracks in the gasket can cause fluid loss

Your radiator may be the culprit. Often the solder, braze, or plastic welding which connects the tanks, tubes, and cooling fin sections will corrode and leak through tiny holes when it is hot. Since most metals and plastics expand when hot and contract when cool, the majority of the fluid loss may occur while driving and you may never notice a large leak. Also, when the fluid is cooler the pressure is less and, hence, less leakage. A million micro leaks = one large leak.

Also check the auxiliary plastic filling tank ( if applicable ) for leaks at the seams or cap.

Test: Look for white residue (depends on coolant type)on the radiator and hose juctions and filling tank.

Fix #1: You must find any leak(s) elsewhere as well. Try an anti-freeze additive product that stops micro leaks. Even new cars have an additive from the factory just for this problem. Your local auto parts store can make a suggestion.

Fix #2: Change your hoses and make sure all the surfaces are clean and free of scratches. If the flanges are dented or gouged then smooth the area with some 400 grit abrasive paper. If the flaws are deep you can resurface it with solder or a metal filled two-part epoxy like "JB Weld" or "PC-7". Do not use the 5-minute set stuff because it easily breaks down from exposure to heat or water.

Fix #3: Replace the radiator, only at the suggestion of your mechanic.

Good Luck!

I had a leak on my 2001 Chevy Malibu V-6 3.1L Engine that was on the inside of the V and up under everything, center of the motor. No evidence of a leak as it only occured when coolant system heated up and pressurized and then evaporated away without dripping, puddling or "visible" residue. As I had only owned older vehicles with overflow tubes I didn't realize how sealed the new coolant systems are, so adding (initially) a little fluid every month seemed like no problem. Then, after adding more fluid more often, the gasket completely failed to hold fluid, warranty had just expired too. So I paid for the repair and inspection/repair of any additional damage and I learned a lesson to do my homework on my 'newer' cars systems.

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You will either have to remove the transmission are pull the engine out.

It is what ever you think will be the easest for you. Then just knock the plug out, clean the hole with sand paper and drive the new one back in with a hammer and a socket that will fit in the freeze plug. Then put it all back together. There are 2 plugs in the back of the engine, replace both of them. You will see 1 plug in the center of the back of the block that is not a freeze plug, it is a cam plug do not bother that unless it is leaking engine OIL. Leave it alone.

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The firing order for this engine is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The cylinders are 1-3-5 from left to right on the back head, and 2-4-6 from left to right on the front head. The coil pack is 1-4-6-3-2-5 from left to right when viewing from the front of the car.

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look on the lower part of the radiator in one of the corners. If it is easier, pull the lower hose to drain.

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If this is similar to the 92 the the low side valve is under the air filter box. Remove the two bolts holding that. It is r134 freon. Add enough so the dryer under the filter box begins sweating. If it leaks out again in less than 3 months you might ought to find the leaking component - tho a can of r134 every three months is tolerable. There is a leak stopper available for small leaks.

Update: Just performed this on my 1998 Chevy Lumina. The valve is still under and behind the air filter box on the driver's side of the vehicle. You can see it without removing the box, but to attach the r134 can, you will almost definitely have to remove the box to have any room to work. There are two valves down there. The low pressure one is the larger diameter metal pipe that is underneath the smaller pipe.

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46 kph = about 28.6 mph

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Sometimes it is hard to get to the fitting on the pump and you have to remove the pump but is really isn't too hard.

I received a quote for $371.00 from a very reputable automobile repair shop. They assured me of the fact that it would take them five hours labor to complete this job. This is what I did today on my 93 Lumina. This is one of the most difficult lines to change. The angle of the line under the car is a nightmare. You cannot get to it from the top or the bottom. I tried using a line wrench and a crows foot. I could not get enough leverage because the fitting angle was away from me, and I had no room to work. I finally figured it out and here is what I did. First, I had to remove the belt in order to remove line from the pump. It's a single fitting and does not take but about five minutes. Next I had to get under the car and remove the bracket that stabilizes both the high and low pressure lines. The next thing that I did was to remove the top motor mount bars and pull my engine forward and brace it with two 2 X 4"s, as if you were going to change the spark plugs. The next thing that I did was to remove the transmission dipstick. (THIS IS KEY!), remove the rubber line (4") that goes from your air filter to your fuel injection system, this gives you access to reach the fitting. Next, I took a triangle file and filed the line as close to the fitting as possible. Once you filed enough to remove the line take a pair of pliers and break the line off. Once you've broke the line off, you can gain access to the fitting with an 18mm socket on the end of a super long extension with a flexible head from the passenger side of the engine. It took me less than a minute to get the fitting out. It's a piece of cake. Remove the fitting and then install the new line. You will have to get back under the car and have someone help you to guide the fitting to the correct hole. You cannot see the hole from under the car. Make sure that you start the fittings by hand that you can then tighten it from the top of the engine. Then tighten the hose on the pump end, and then reinstall everything that you removed in order to gain access. It should take about 1.5 to 2 hours. (BREAKING THE LINE AND GAINING THE ACCESSIBILITY WITH THE LONG EXTENSION IS CRITICAL) If you attempt to remove this hose without filing the line, it could take you five to seven hours. I hope that this helps!

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What can the problem be as my 1998 Lumina car is losing missing anti frezze. When I fill the radiator my heater is starting to give off heat.

At times their is a red light to goes on and off at the right side and bottom of the dash board.

I have no idea what this light is showing as to the missing anti frezze.

Dose the electric fan that is not working has any relashionship why i am missing antifrezze and whare dose the anntifrezze go or evaparate.

Please answer because i am now confused.

Abeys

abbey1@videotron.ca

Most likely you have a small hole in the radiator somewhere. I have the same problem in my 1995 Lumina, and I have to replace approximately 1/2 gallon of antifreeze approximately every 6 weeks or so. This would be most noticeable when you see a puddle left underneath the car where the radiator sits. You want to find out what size the radiator is by using a tape measure across the top of the radiator. For the '95, there are 3 different core sizes, so I have to match mine to the correct size. Any time you see that Low Coolant light go on, you know that you need to refill your coolant. Wait until the engine has cooled off before refilling though.

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Hey Debra=It depands on what engine you have and what part of the country you live in. Call a couple of local shops and get an estimate. GoodluckJoe

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The 3.4 twin cam 24v engine was an optional motor to the 3.1 base model. And the 3.4 was standard to the Lumina Z34 and LTZ model which was later phased out for the 3800.

HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL covering 1995-2001 Lumina, Monte Carlo, and Impala (FWD) page 2A-1 states...cylinder location (engine--the part where you put the spark plugs) when looking from the front of the vehicle the cylinders are numbered from left to right 2-4-6 (front part of engine); 1-3-5 left to right (rear of engine). Firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6. At the other end of the spark plug wire you should find a "bank" which matches the spark plug wire with the corresponding port. The "bank" from left to right when standing in front of the vehicle is 5-2-3-6-4-1. Spark plug wires should be from number 1 cylinder to number 1 on the bank. Then number 2 cylinder to number 2 on the bank, etc.

It's 1-2-3-4-5-6 and that's from the owners manual of a 97 lumina.

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try looking on the top of your head light hosing there should be 2 torque head adjusters there,they should be both an outer with like a 12 point top and in the middle of them should be the regular torque head.the outer one will adjust left to right and the one towards the inside closest to the radiator will be for the up and down adjustment.good luck