Valkyrie was the name of a spaceship on Battle Star Galatica. The Honda Valkyrie is a motorcycle produced by Honda between 1996 and 2003, including both years. This bike was known as the Honda GL 1500 in the United States and as the Honda F6 in other countries. In Norse mythology, Valkyrie means beautiful girls who served the deity known as "Odin". Their purpose was to ride on horseback over battlefields so they could claim dead warriors and bring them to "Valhalla". Valkyrie has thus come to signify a powerful and beautiful virgin who is fearless and strong at the same time.
They could but it would require a lot of modification. One might also ask, what would be the benefit from using CNG on motorbikes. The real reason for using CNG on engines is for saving fuel. As most motorbikes use far less fuel than cars, and are already more economical than cars, changing them to use CNG seems kind of purposeless. Another problem is, the CNG tanks have to fulfill far higher specifications than normal motorcycle gas tanks. This would increase the overall price of the motorbike, besides the tanks would look ugly in comparison to the normal gas tanks we have on motorcycles now.
4-7 depending on model and manufacturer
10/30 4 stroke oil with ASI SE or SF cert. high detergent. weather upto 85 Fahrenheit
10/40 4 stroke oil with ASI SE or SF cert. high detergent weather upto 115 Fahrenheit
the pilot jet inside the carb is probly dirty remove bottom of carb 4 screws theres 2 jets in there they both have a place to put a flat screwdriver into.
the jet that is higher is the main jet and it's also shorter the lower one is the pilot or slow jet take it out clean it make sure you can see through it put her back in, also consult a manual it shows step by step.
twist the screw under the carb
Between the air filter and the intake manifold.
I use rubbing alcohol. It makes everything shine. It's also great on windows and mirrors.Wash with sudsy water. Rinse and wipe dry to bring up luster.
Do not use abrasive household cleaners on these surfaces because they may scratch. If there is sticky or gummy soil to remove, try rubbing with baking soda on a damp cloth or sponge, or wipe with vinegar, rinse, and buff dry. For difficult spots, you may need a metal polish made especially for chromium or other soft metals.
Burned-on grease on appliances may be removed by commercial cleaners or by using silver polish. Several applications may be necessary if burned-on grease is allowed to build up.
[Info from the Home Maintenance And Repair Database at the Michigan State University website]
toothpaste works great. I found out when driving truck if you use a crome polosh like turtle wax brad. and then hfter cleaning you apply a small coat of wax you make it last longer.
Dip a cloth in warm water and a few drops of ammonia or meth. spiritus, and then polish with a clean cloth. good luck
White vinegar and rubbing alcohol work great! Also, a wiping dry fixtures with a used dryer fabric softener sheet creates a great shine! Buffing with lemon juice results in a shine as well.
On the top of the carburetor there will be a cable leading to a bottle cap looking deal unscrew that off of the carburetor and there at the bottom of what comes out you will see the needle of the needle valve. Be careful not to put it back in the wrong way, if you do the ATV either wont start or it will run WIDE open when you so start it.
It takes 24x9.00-11
Mine does around 42 - 30 MpG depending on speed.
Go with a chain! That way you can easily change the gear ratio and do WHEELIES all the time!!! That's what I'm talkin about... WHEELIES
In addition to the comments listed above, I shall simply make one or two comments: I have ridden bikes with shaft drive up to 15 yrs and never, ever had to do any maintenance on the shaft whatsoever. If you're a "gearhead" that likes tinkering with your machine, get a chain. If you don't like to do mechanical work, get a shaft. I personally love my shaft drive. One less thing to break down on the road when I'm 80 miles from the nearest town. Having said that, the bike itself is more important to me than what type of drive it uses. I am a big fan of fluid-cooled engines, however, which I strongly prefer to air-cooled.
Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ lists these advantages and disadvantages of shaft drive and chain drive:
One other negative with chain drive is it is easy to lose a finger tip (between chain and rear gear) if you try to clean the chain with a rag while the letting the rear wheel spin in gear, on centerstand-equipped bikes - ouch!
From what my friends tell me traction is better with the shaft drive. but shaft drive has a smoother ride.
I think the question is how much time do you want to put into maintenance, tempered by how much you want to pay for repairs when the shaft breaks or has a problem. Does the time and effort for maintenance of a chain outweigh the cost of fixing a break on a shaft drive that perhaps could come on a long ride out in the middle of nowhere? Chain is easier to find & fix than a shaft drive system, you might even be able to do it yourself. Little chance of a do it yourself job on a shaft drive.
I'm on my third shaft drive bike and I wouldn't go back to chain drive. The reasons being the smooth, quite ride and the minimal maintenance of these systems.
One respondent to this debate mentioned the cost and inconvenience of a breakdown with shaft drive vs. that of a chain. I have had a couple of chain repairs and cost is minimal to get back on the road. I'm sure cost to repair a shaft drive would be considerably more. But, I have not had a single problem with any of the shaft drives that I have owned. And I have ridden them pretty hard at times, almost to the point of being abusive.
Chain drives are somewhat more efficient than the shaft drive, and also somewhat cheaper. Means better fuel mileage, and more efficient transfer of power to the wheel. There is more maintenance on a chain than Shaft Drive, but it's rediculously easy. I consider the only real positive side to the shaft drive would be, that they are smoother.2 centsI just switched to a chain driven bike and regret it; the chain part that is. Overall upgrade in motorcycle, but I prefer the shaft drive. Low maintenance and not a noticable change in ride... the seat lifts up under acceleration, but that wasn't so bad. And that earlier post of a break down on a shaft bike is bogus. I'll bet you know more riders with broken chains than those with broken shafts. Keep the reservoir full and watch for leakage and you won't have any problems.
Chain versus shaft, well, who is to say.
If you like the idea of being able to quickly adust your final drive, go with a chain. There aren't any problems with a chain, in fact, most modern bikes have auto chain tensioners, like the GPX250.
Personally, I would go with a chain, simply because I grew up with them. In addition I have found that the kind of bikes that I like are all chain driven. You usually dont have a choice, a sports bike is a chain, while big tourer is a shaft.
Another negative aspect of chains is that they are dirty, both from spraying grease around and in the maintenance. Shafts are clean, quiet and neat. They are also costly both in the chains themselves and the sprockets, which wear out over the life of the bike, although probably not as expensive as the initial cost of shaft drive.an ANSWER you haven't see yet...Hey kids, consider the alternative - BELTS. In addition to being long lived (life/100k miles on Buells), they are quieter, cleaner and lower maintenance due to no lubrication requirements, they are much lighter (~1 pound in weight versus 4.5+ pounds for chain). This means lower unsprung weight, and advantage in both handling and ride comfort. Also, they do possess a certain capacity for vibration damping. Another answer that continues the legacy.....I prefer chain drive Shaft Drive: Shaft drive is more reliable and easier to keep than chain, but is heavier and more expensive.Chain drive: Used scince the early 1900's, Chain drive is easier to "tinker" with but can slip or break..oh something you may not have heard yet...there are 2 chains used.
you've been mistaken.It goes upto 110 km/h.There is an engine lock which is in every engine.You have to unlock it only then can it go faster or to its top speed.110km/hr is the engine lock speed.If your goes upto 100km/hr,then theres a problem.Consult it to the dealer.
Use any JASO-MA or MA2 or SAE SF-SG oil of W 15-40 for this bike.
1hp=42cc thus 2hp will be equivalent to 84cc.. they are interrelated..
.0002in or .05mm intake and exhaust
Most likely a bad (or missing) ground connection or a bad power connection somewhere in the circuit.
There are several kinds of "bad connections". The simplest is a dead-open where you find the wire/cable just hanging in the air and no longer connected. A more difficult one to find is also more dangerous, that is the loose connection typified by the generation of heat and arcing/sparks and burned metal and/or plastic. The danger comes from the heat (which can melt plastic) and the sparks which can ignite fuel vapors or combustible material.
The most difficult is the thermally isolated connection (most typically found on high current ground connections). It amounts to a mechanical-near-miss in that the wire/cable appears to be properly attached when in fact some sort of insulator has infiltrated the connection such that it can only carry a tiny fraction of it's intended current.
This one can all ways be detected by applying a normal load to the circuit and measuring the voltage that leg of the circuit consumes (AKA the voltage-drop).
Detailed instructions follow...
(As you did not state if you heard the flasher cycling when the failure occurred we will assume you do hear it in the following)
Not likely a flasher or relay. If you can, access the connection at the turn-signal switch and (with it cold) turn on your turn-signals. Using the 20 volt DC range of your meter, first probe the power connection at the switch with one meter probe and the battery B+ DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY with the other.
Take note of that reading, then probe the from the T-S power connection to the T-S power out connection directly on the switch (for both when turned left and for right) and then from the T-S power out to the power in on the turn-signal housing lamp socket at each housing, taking note of each measurement.
Finally probe from BATTERY B- to the ground connection at the other end of the battery ground cable, at the frame, and at each T-S lamp socket (and at the flasher/relay ground).
Any measurement taken where the voltage drop across each section of a live circuit is more than about 0.2 volts (that is 2 tenths of a volt) indicates a bad connection that must be fixed before further troubleshooting can be done.
hope this helped
Approx. 120-125 kph is the Top speed of this machine.
Loosen off the back wheel or adjuster if it has one then you put the master through the two ends of the chain and put the outer link piece on the pin sticking out and then put the slide clip on.
87 octane regular
That depends on what brand and what model it is and also what kind of shape its in. The average price in 1982 was much lower for example. Comparable bike. 2007 Yamaha YZ250
S.R.P $5,110 1982 Yamaha SR250 Exciter
S.R.P $825.00 Source = http://www.kbb.com/kbb/Motorcycles/Retail.aspx Hope This Helps.
The choke changes the mix of fuel and air entering the motorcycle's engine by reducing airflow. The richer fuel mixture burns more easily in a cold engine, but at the same time can strip away lubricating oil. As a result, you should leave the choke on for the minimum amount of time possible until your bike is warmed up.
The Kawasaki Aircraft Company was founded in the 1920s. Their first venture into motorcycles was in the late 1940s when they started using their engine expertise to make motorcycle engines. In 1954 they produced their first complete motorcycle under the name Meihatsu, a subsidiary of Kawasaki.
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