The question is vague, but if you are asking the questions to a seller of the bike, then use these:
1. Did you buy the bike new?
2. How long have you had your license?
3. Have you ever dropped it?
4. Are you good at stunning bikes, and doing tricks?
5. In terms of maintenance, what schedule have you followed and for what aspects of the maintenance? Who performs the maintenance?
6. Where do you store the bike?
7. So... why are you selling the bike?
8. is it stolen?
9. does it work?
10. will it break when i leave?
11. can you take a photo of me on the bike to see how i look?
MotoGP bikes are a one-of-a-kind prototype in which every part is custom made. It's nearly impossible to put a value on a GP motorcycle - though one way to get an idea is to take a look at what it would cost to lease one from a manufacturer: it is in the neighborhood of $3 million a year. The lease price is around the actual value. They are made in single-digit numbers, and the development costs run in the tens of millions of dollars, so a round figure of $2-3 million would be a fair appraisal. The complexity of a Moto GP bike is truly staggering. Many of the bikes have TWO crankshafts to make them gyroscopically neutral. Most also have GPS data of every last square inch of every last track on the schedule, as well as the camber/slope of each corner, so that the onboard computer can apportion just the right amount of engine power to the rear wheel for where the bike is on the track/how hard or soft the tire is/how much grip is available, etc. By understanding this, it is EASY to see how these incredible machines can each be worth $3 million dollars.
It is my Opinion that Anyone starting out on a Motorcycle should Buy a used OnRoad / Offroad Bike 175 to 250 cc Then Both Terrain and Road can Be experienced. Fun Fun Fun. The Bikes are generally light and easy to handle. The Offroad Terrain prepares the Rider somewhat for unexpected circumstances on the Road. The first answer is good, but may not work for everyone. I agree that an individual should begin with a used bike. Depending on the size of the person riding different bikes provide good experience. If you know you will be only using the bikes off road, then I would recommend a Honda XR200 for a smaller person. If you are tall, the Kawasaki KDX 200 is an excellent bike. Dual Sport (Both licensed for street and dirt) have become more popular and may be difficult to find something in a size that works well for you. Also, a Dual Sport bike will most likely be heavier than a pure dirt bike. Weight is important when riding in the dirt. The lighter the bike, the better. 120 isn't a whole lot. If it's a motocross bike get 80 two stroke. Enduro or dual sport- 125 four stroke. Don't assume that bigger and more powerful is better. If you get a bike that has to much power you will simply be UNABLE to ride it.
He notes, "Leather looks sexy and works; Cordura is functional and works; Shorts and a T-shirt are an invitation to skin grafts. Jackets can be had relatively inexpensively at pawn shops or through Internet retailers. Make sure that the leather is good and thick, not the thin garment leather that most stylish leather jackets are made of. A riding suit makes it convenient to follow the rule of 'All the Gear, All the Time.'"
Aerostich is by far the most popular sport touring motorcycle riding suit in the US. They come in one and two piece versions, about $850 for a suit. The Aerostich Roadcrafter (one of the versions along with the Darien and Darien light models) is relatively watertight for up to 1.5 hours of a steady downpour which will fill up your lap with water. Eventually the water slips around the velcro closures and through one of the zippers in the crotch and you will start getting slightly wet. Nothing too bad. The Aerostich offers great armor inside the Cordura and Ballistics Nylon suit. Tons of pockets and optional hip and back armor. Several people I know in www.concours.org have crashed wearing a 'Stich" and walk away from accidents that would have put them in the hospital. Well worth the money you pay for it, plus they last for many years and miles due to the quality of the garmet. www.aerostich.com
There are several other motorcycle suits out there, such as the Fieldsheer Highland one piece, which works well but doesn't last as long as an Aerostich product. The removable liner comes with both an upper and lower set, so you can ride this suit when it's cold out.
Full and two piece leather suits are okay, as long as you get race thickness and padding. Do not go out and buy a leather suit that is made of thin leather just because it looks fashionable. First Gear makes a great jacket and pants combo that can zip together. Not perfect for the track but great for sport touring.
In the opinion of Todd Robinson, School Director for TrackXperience (a racetrack riding school):
In leather suits, protection can be evaluated objectively, while fit is very subjective. For protection, a one piece suit is a step up from a two piece suit, only because a full circumference zipper is a potential failure point, and it means bypassing the typical stretch panel on the lower back of most one piece suits. CE-approved armor should be located in the shoulders, elbows, knees, and sometimes the hips. Removable armor or a full removable washable liner with armor pouches is a real plus, especially for those in the warmer climates.
Perforated suits are wonderful in , but can be very uncomfortable in colder riding, even a cold breeze. So those are generally suggested only for riding conditions above 60 degrees (F).
It is common for leather suits to be cowhide, although goatskin is also used, as is kangaroo. Cowhide tends to be fairly thick and to get a suit from cowhide that is extremely comfortable comes at a premium. Goatskin is regarded as a budget or entry level material. Kangaroo has a higher tensile strength than cowhide at the same thickness. So kangaroo suits (not legal in all states or areas) can be lighter with the same level of protection, but generally very pricey.
Little things to look for to help with rider comfort (beyond the aforementioned liner) are things like zippered vents, kevlar stretch panels (high tensile strength but still very pliable), double layer overstiched panels in impact areas, YKK zippers for longevity, a space for a back protector (either included or aftermarket), and a newer hot item, the built in hump, which purportedly helps with full tuck aerodynamics but has an added benefit of quasi neck-roll and upper back padding and in the newer Spidi suit JP3 has a 'camelbak" fluid container.
Some suits with the Italian fit: Dainese, Alpinestars, Spidi, AGV. - Tend to have narrower shoulders, biceps, thighs. Decent height, reasonable abdomen girth.
American/Anglo-Saxon fit: Vanson, Bates, Joe Rocket, Firstgear, Hein Gericke, Teknic, Fieldsheer - Tend to fit a more squared average build. Larger suits can feel baggy on riders who are tall but thin.
Japanese fit: RS-Taichi, Kushitani - Tend to fit very stocky build. Shorter neck-to-crotch measurement, but roomy in thighs, seat, waist, biceps in larger sizes. Smaller sizes are very slight build.
Custom suits are very popular but come at a higher price as a result: NJK, Z Custom, Helimot, Zooni, and others provide a very high level of quality and comfort.
* There are other quality suit brands not mentioned above, but they were not deleted to denote a lack of quality, just for brevity. The suits listed above are the most common suits we see brought out to racetrack riding events however.
Just remember, you get what you pay for in a riding suit, and an inexpensive suit that is chocked-full of "bells and whistles" very likely is trading build quality and materials quality for features. Expect to pay $500-700 for a good entry-level suit, $1000-1500 for a very good track/race suit, and $1800-2500 for a fully custom suit.
You might consider looking at Teiz Motorsports (www.teixms.com), a company that is shaking things up in the motorcycle industry by introducing products that are high on value, quality and features yet reasonable in price. Teiz is very focused on customer service with unparalleled customer interaction and ongoing upgrades to their products in both quality and features.
For example, The Teiz Motorsports Lombard is the most affordable 1 piece riding suit currently available, for around $300. The Ventura and Camino 2pc suits offers features usually found on $500+ jackets for less than half the price.
Most states have a "quick title" or otherwise known as abandoned vehicle title service through the vehicle registration department in your state. They should be able to advise you. Another way to find out is to call a salvage yard and see hoe they title abandoned vehicles. You can use a lean-sale company to initiate a lean on the bike in lieu of theoretical storage fees. When the bike defaults the lean it is issued a new title in the lien holder's name (you.) For expensive bikes it takes about 3 months. For less expensive bikes it takes about a month. The lien sale company charges about $75-$100. You can also initiate the lien yourself but the process is a little more difficult. The waiting period is to see if the actual owner of the property steps up and claims the bike, or contests the lien. They send notification to the address on the last title holder. If the bike has been out of the system for more than 5 years (California), registration information is dumped,k but they should still have the title holder on record. You still have to go through the lien sale process even if the bike is not registered with the state.
You will need to pay off the lien first, or arrange with the lienholder to be able to make a sale.
Here's the non-exhaustive list of opinions from Timberwoof in his Motorcycle FAQ: * Helmet: HJC, Arai, Shoei, Nolan (fit is the most important thing) * Gloves: Held * Pants: Aerostich, Joe Rocket, Draggin Jeans, Tourmaster, FirstGear * Jackets: Aerostich, Joe Rocket, Tourmaster, FirstGear * Boots: Redwing * Suit: Aerostich
That depends on what brand and what model it is and also what kind of shape its in. The average price in 1982 was much lower for example. Comparable bike. 2007 Yamaha YZ250
S.R.P $5,110 1982 Yamaha SR250 Exciter
S.R.P $825.00 Source = http://www.kbb.com/kbb/Motorcycles/Retail.aspx Hope This Helps.
Yes, there is a small dealer in Okinawa.
i would recommend you start off on a naked 125cc bike. buy a second hand one and if pos take someone with you who knows a bit about bike mechanics so you don't waste your money on something that's gonna break as soon as you get it home. check the bike for rust scratches caused by a crash or any damage. i would also recommend you put on a engine guard to protect the bike and its engine if you have a crash. a great 1st bike is the Honda cbf125. its relatively cheap, does over 100 mpg and is very reliable.
According to Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: "The common wisdom is that you should buy a used bike for $1 to $4k depending on what you can afford. A 'naked' standard bike?one without expensive fairings?won't suffer much damage when you drop it. When you have a year or two of experience, then you'll know more about what kinds of motorcycles there are, how you ride, and what you really want. Check out www.beginnerbikes.com."AnswerI would also recommend a bike no smaller than 550, but a "UJM" or universal Japanese motorcycle, not a sportbike. Examples would be the Suzuki gs line, Kawasaki KZ line, etc. A heavier bike is actually more forgiving, and the sit-up UJM's have very neutral handling. They're only slightly harder to pick up than a small bike if you drop them.
I agree totally with Timberwoof's answer... don't buy anything that you will cause you too much grief if you tip it over... There is an old saying that holds true... there are only two types of motorcycle riders ones that have tipped their motorcyle over and ones that are going to tip their motorcycle over..
I would suggest... motor guards and cheap mirrors...also.
An automatic 50cc to 150cc then graduate up.
the best which you think is
Your feet should be able to be flat on the ground when stopped
Yes its true it does. There are many reasons but oil get thinner with heat and will rush past any gaps. Usually the main end bearing is to blame. However Does the low oil pressure lamp come on? (7PSI). In most cases the oil pressure is +60PSI when cold and idle. However when hot most late BSA's show about 10PSI at idle. You're good to keep riding but if the lamp comes on at high revs stop! Check oil for metal fragments. Fragements are bad. Good luck and check www.britbike.com for more on this wonderful subject. Yes its true it does. There are many reasons but oil get thinner with heat and will rush past any gaps. Usually the main end bearing is to blame. However Does the low oil pressure lamp come on? (7PSI). In most cases the oil pressure is +60PSI when cold and idle. However when hot most late BSA's show about 10PSI at idle. You're good to keep riding but if the lamp comes on at high revs stop! Check oil for metal fragments. Fragements are bad. Good luck and check www.britbike.com for more on this wonderful subject.
i have seen between 12,999 and 15,999 near me in Florida
I need an answer
Value is highly dependent upon condition. Email me offline for more info. email@example.com
Usually alot more than people will offer you,if they think you are uninformed and they can get something for way below market value.Since production of engine cases cast from a sand mold are expensive,labor intensive,not to mention a new mold is required for each one.Production numbers are very low,since the company is using this method,so they do not have to invest in expensive engine tooling for a model that may not sell that well and be discontinued. The first year Honda CB 750 used this method,and since this model was a hit and went on to be produced for many years,the engines went into high production.These first year bikeshave become very desireable and have continued to escalate in price,as Japenese motorcycles have become the dominate segment in the motorcycle collecters market over the last 15 to 20 years.Higher prices will be paid by serious collectors in Japan,that desire models that were produced in Japan and only sold in the U.S.---even odd parts are wanted as the supply of N.O.S parts disappear from dealerships and warehouses. Condition is important,but collectors will go to great lengths to restore poor examples.Reaserch,e-bay,and enjoy profits.!!! The ToeCutter
Off road motorcycles do not have keys. Enduro (dual sport) and street motorcycles have keys. Older BMW motorcycles have a "key" but it is not unique to the individual motorcycle. That is, a BMW key will start any old BMW motorcycle. yes motorcycles have keys
HELLO NO PLATE NO RIVITS MUST HAVE RUSTED OF , SCOOTER IS 20 ODD YEARS OLD
You can refer to the KBB or NADA guides for the average mileage on the bike you're looking at. Here's a hint from Mark Olson reprinted in Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: "Don't go for the really low mileage bikes either. They'll probably need work too, from sitting and rotting."
If your talking about the Honda VLH (I think that's the line) the 1800will have more power for sure. But cost $3 grand more. I under standthe is a much cheaper motor cause it's lower end(crankshaft) viberatesmuch more. Some thing about 90 degrees crank instead of a 180 ofset crankon the 1800cc/\. Anyway you should test both before buying and see if thesmoothness and extra power is worth buying th vlh 1800.
good luck, hope this helps, Ben Parker,San Jose,Ca.
== == Try www.getnewtitle.com they specialize in lost car titles and have a 100% money back guarantee and are registered with the BBB. Getnewtitle.com does not take ownership they just need a few forms.
== It is very easy call INTERNATIONAL TITLE SERVICE, 1-800-543-8626 THERE AD IS IN WALNECKS CYCLE TRADER MAG. Nobody ever answers the phone there == Or International Title Service on 1-702-456-4027 Or online @: http://www.its-titles.com/ Beware, in the smallprint they buy the vehicle off you, register it with their company and then sell it back to you. Try the DMV first
All Chinese made motorcycle products.
Here's an answer to "So how do I make sure that this used bike I'm buying is legit?" as summarized by Nicholas C. Weaver in Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: * Go down, inspect bike, inspect title. Record VIN, plate, engine #. * Record/photocopy buyer?s driver?s liscence. * Call police autotheft dept on cellphone. Phone in VIN, plate, engine serial number. They will be able to tell if its stolen, and should be able to say if it is salvage. Likewise, ask if they can verify driver's licence number/name/address association. They might not, but they might. * Pay for bike with a cashier's check. (It is unlikely the seller would accept one, however, due to all the counterfeit ones out there.)
The above is an good first step. You want to ensure that the bike is in good working order. If you are not mechanical take it to a motorcycle repair shop and pay for them to look it over. If you are mechanical, you want to look in the gas take and see if there is rust, check the level of the oil and see if there is moisture in the oil. See if the bike appears to have been wrecked or dropped. Look at the pipes for scratches, paint chips, dents, etc. Look at the condition of the chain, is it dry. Look at the sprockets both the front and rear of the bike. If the teeth are not even, it will need new ones soon. Give it a general once over.
A Certificate of Destruction is when the a salvage yard has sent a car to the crusher and before it is crushed he must have the Vehicle ID number check to make sure he has title to destroy the car for scrap metal. Salvaged Title is when a Insurance Title company has deemed a car damaged in a accident i.e. crash,natural diaster,stolen stripped, to repair this car exceeds the cost of the car. So the Insurance company pays-off the owner of the car then sells the car to salvage yard but they put a Salvage Title on the Vin as to make sure if this vehicle is return back in to service the new owner knows that it was deemed totalled. Also so the insurance companies will know if it ever is asked to be insured again they will insure at a lower replacement cost.
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