First remove the drain plug (17mm wrench required) on the bottom of the motor, allow all oil to escape. Once the oil has been removed inspect the crush washer on the drain plug, if it appears damaged replace it, otherwise re-insert the plug and tighten snugly but do not over tighten. Next, locate the oil filter on the rear of the motor and remove it, allow any/all oil to drain if necessary. Install new filter. Fill with approx. 3.5 qt of MOTORCYCLE oil. Check for leaks and then go ride.
Take the seat off- your battery is towards the front of that compartment (near the gas tank), right under that pack of wires. You'll be able to see the contacts on either side of the wires and vacuum hoses.
it is the ratio of gas to oil 32 parts gas 1 part oil. it is easier to mix it if you have a mixing container.
Yes they are for a woods bike, not for a motocross bike. I have owned 3 over the years and they have proven to be very dependable bikes. Here is the way I would break my most recent KDX (2003) 220.
Pros: Reliable, long lasting, descent power, inexpensive, lots of parts available, proven design (unchanged since 1997).
Cons: Soft and slow for more experienced riders, proven technology is also old technology.
on the earily Kaws 73-? it the vin was the engine number, what year did the vin become the frame number?
"Shaft effect" is the drop in the back of a shaft drive motorcycle under acceleration, they also pop up when you stop accelerating which can cause a loss of control in a corner That is why some sport bikes don't use them. BMW paralever-frame motorcycles use a shaft drive; the paralever shaft drive design reduces or eliminates this effect.
The shaft effect must be understood to increase control in cornering. By increasing the throttle in a right-hand turn and decreasing the throttle in a left-hand turn shaft effect can work for the rider to increase control. It's all in understanding the limitations of your machine.AnswerThe shaft drive is heavier than the belt drive, has more frictional losses and id more expensive to repair. The belt is more prone to damage from road debris than shaft or even chain. It is also critical that the belt is taught at all positions of the swingarm, something chain is much less sensitive to and shaft does not have. The shaft is more durable and requires little or no maintenance. All run quietly and smoothly when in proper working order, with belt and shaft having a slight advantage over chain.. AnswerThe main disadvantages of shaft drive are weight, cost and a certain loss of horsepower due to friction. They are costly to repair, but that will hardly ever be necessary. The main advantages are smoothness, absence of oil spill, ease of maintenance and reliability. A shaft drive will normally never require a roadside repair, and an oil change each time you change rear wheel will normally be all you need to do about it. Hence, shaft drive is preferable for touring. A more sporting motorcycle will normally have chain drive due to the low weight and ability to easily change transmission ratios by using different size sprockets and partly because of looks. Chain drive is obligatory in most forms of racing. But chains may break and they need frequent attention, maintenance (lubrication) and adjustment.
BMW introduced shaft drive in motorcycles in 1923. This was in response to the fact that at the time, drive belts were made of flaps of leather riveted together. Compared to the level of maintenance required by leather drive belts, a shaft drive seemed to be the final solution. With the advent of chain drive, the low maintenance advantage of shaft drive diminished slightly, but not altogether. Shaft drives may require maintenance between 40,000 and 150,000 miles. Compared with a 8,000-12,000 replacement schedule for chain drives, it is evident that shaft drive still holds a maintenance advantage.
Chain/belt drive DOES have an advantage over shaft drive, however. A shaft drive has a mechanical efficiency of around 80%. This means only 80% of the input power is transferred to the rear wheel. The efficiency of a chain/belt is mid 90%. The chain loses efficiency only due to friction internal to the chain and can be helped somewhat by frequent lubrication of the chain, but this increases maintenance effort and time.
Always use oil designed for motorcycles due to wet clutch protection. Automotive oils do not provide enough protection for the clutch and engine. This motorcycle uses 4 stroke motorcycle oil (Semi or Full Synthetic) 10w40 Grade SE, SF or SG Class. You can also use Grade JASO MA or MA2 class for added protection.
My buddy and I just changed the valve cover gasket on the rear cylinder of my 1994 Vulcan 1500. The manual and most wise mechanics recommend that you drop the engine, but we got by just lowering it. Detaching as little as possible (which was just about everything except the rear engine mount) and splitting the frame on the right hand side to drop it about 2 inches so we could get in there. This makes it much easier to get everything back together though since it's only a couple of inches out of place. We just used a couple of jack stands and a standard car jack to lower/raise the engine. The only down side of doing it this way is that you can't get a torque wrench in there so you have to guess the torque when you're putting it back together. We loosened/tightened the valve cover bolts by fitting the 10mm socket on it and clamping a vice grip on the socket since a standard size socket wrench won't fit. It worked pretty darn well, but was admittedly very unprofessional. It took us about 5 hours - though we could have saved an hour if we had a motorcycle lift.
Hope this helps a bit.
There is a capacity chart on the on the case by the oil fill. With a filter change the capacity is 3.5 quarts.
The Kawasaki Aircraft Company was founded in the 1920s. Their first venture into motorcycles was in the late 1940s when they started using their engine expertise to make motorcycle engines. In 1954 they produced their first complete motorcycle under the name Meihatsu, a subsidiary of Kawasaki.
The third link provided is for an art historian specializing in the history of picture frames.
If its on a golf cart or mule email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and i will be glad to help you
The left side fairing piece (when sitting on the bike) needs to be unscrewed and it is behind it.
kaf is the model of older kawasaki mules the 540 is the engian size 540 cc c is off road c and e are turf or golf kart style
yes look here
1. Remove Air Filter and All Duct work attached to the carburetor.
2. Disconnect Fuel Line (Label to aide in reattachment)
3. Disconnect all Vacuum Hoses (Label all to aide in reattachment)
4. Disconnect all wires (if so equipped) (label to aide in reattachment)
5. Disconnect Choke linkage (if equipped with manual choke)
6. Disconnect Throttle Linkage
7. Unbolt Carburetor and remove from manifold
1. Obtain new gasket
2. Install new gasket onto manifold and carburetor onto gasket per manufacturers instruction
3. Torque carburetor bolts per manufacturers instructions
4. Reconnect Throttle Linkage
5. Reconnect Choke Linkage (if equipped with manual choke)
6. Reconnect all wires (This is where the labeling pays off)
7. Reconnect all vacuum hoses (Be sure to tighten clamps securely)
8. Reattach fuel line (Be sure to tighten clamp or fitting securely)
9. Replace Air filter and all duct work
10. Restart Vehicle to ensure proper operation.
Shut off fuel tap and remove sparkplug and crank engine over for 10secs or 3-4 kicks on the kickstarter then let sit for 10mins, install sparkplug ensure choke is off and crank again while holding throttle open full or butterfly on the carby open full until it starts then turn fuel tap open. To stop the problem reoccuring remove the bowl off the carby and inspect float needle and seat for gunk buildup if it is gunked up then remove carby and remove all plastic and rubber parts like float,bowl gasket and float needle and clean with carby/throttle body cleaner also clean out fuel tank with clean fuel, one way to keep this problem from happening is i just run a tank of premium every couple of tanks as the premium has anti-gunk detergents used to keep injectors in cars clean.
Also remove the overflow external screw from bottom of the bowl and make sure the overflow pipe is not blocked, if it is blocked then the carby will overflow out the jets into the inlet manifold instead of out the overflow located at the bottom of the bowl(if you have a small puddle of petrol under the bike after extended rest periods then chances are it aint blocked) try not to adjust the float if your not sure how to properly and just replace the float needle and/or float if you suspect they are past service limits as adjusting the float now may incur more adjustments when the parts wear past usable limits down the track, imo if you don't know how to adjust the float properly then don't ;)
To check float operation without removing bowl just install a small clear peice of hose to the overflow on the bottom of the bowl, stand bike up straight and lossen overflow screw and turn fuel tap in the on or reserve position, hold hose against carby without getting any kinks and the level should be no greater then where the join where the bowl meets the carby, infact it should be around 5mm-10mm below the join on most carbs.
sounds like you have stuck floats in the carbs, or carb. May have some foreign material that got stuck in the needle valve holding it open causing the engine to flood. You can either remove them or take the bowl off and clean it be careful, then adjust floats if they need it. And maybe run some Marvel Mystery Oil, get at Walmart, a little bit, through your next tank of gas to clean out tank and carbs. Won't hurt bike.
That previous answer is a little vague. Here's what you do: If you can take your carb off, you can most likely clean the carbs yourself. Go to your local auto parts store and get the carb cleaner that comes in a can that looks like a paint can. After you get the carb or carbs off the bike, carefully and slowly take the screws off the bottom. This is the float bowl. Be careful not to rip or stretch the gasket if there is one. You'll notice the float. Slide the pin out. Remove float and watch for the float needle. Note its position and where it fits into the carb. Now, you'll see a few brass fittings, some look like a flat screwdriver could take them off. Do it. Others might be a 6mm or 8mm wrench. Do those, too. More complex and modern carbs have more components. You may want to remove the tops of the carbs and take everything out, but this usually isn't necessary. Take all of the metal pieces you just removed (no Rubber) and drop them in the ChemDip carb cleaner as per the instructions. 30 minutes is good over night is better. If you're scared take your carb(s) to the bike shop and ask nicely if they'll slide your carb in on the side and clean it....ask and ye shall receive...
In other words "How do I remove a flooded condition?"
A. Shut off your fuel valve.
B. Open your throttle slides/butterfly and keep them open, while;
C. engaging the starter, until;
D. your engine fires and starts.
E. Open the fuel falve.
This should remove the excess fuel condition. Be aware that the starter is not designed to be "layed on" for too long.
Remember to shut off your fuel valve after turning off your ignition circuit so as to avoid a future occurrence of this problem.
Along with everything stated above,change your oil and run a quart or 2 through then change your oil again..I have a carb 4 wheeler that had the fuel left on for too long and the carb took in so much fuel that it actually started overflowing fuel directy into the engine.Ended up having more gas inside my engine than oil.I got lucky and drained it before I ran it..If I ran it, I probably would have a rebuilt engine right now.
My 650r with no engine modification and a 160lb rider goes form 0-60 in 3.1 sec and hits top speed at 142mph at 11,000 rpms. (Speedo's are known to be off on new motorcycles. Using GPS a magazine got 137mph)
i clocked my racing kx100 with stock gearing going 65 guned
how much oil is needed when changing oil on 2006 kawasaki concours
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