the pilot jet inside the carb is probly dirty remove bottom of carb 4 screws theres 2 jets in there they both have a place to put a flat screwdriver into.
the jet that is higher is the main jet and it's also shorter the lower one is the pilot or slow jet take it out clean it make sure you can see through it put her back in, also consult a manual it shows step by step.
IT cannot be called as JV. Honda is a technology partner. Honda is Helping the Hero Honda by giving technology and in return the get the the brand name as well as the company share.
Example for Joint Venture would be Bharati-Walmart.
putting pineapple on pizza
its FREE just use what ever you get your hands ON get its freon
The first CB125 had 13HP.
The second generation had 14HP.
The CB125 beginning from the late 70ies had 17HP.
my self is a computer teacher,from my point of view ,some project topics are:
A SMALL GAME
Honda portable generators provide reliable power for recreation, industrial, and home use, and whatever reason you need extra power.An average price for a home use one would be between $1100.00 to $1500.00 and last for 8-10 hours.
4 cylinder have timing chain starting with model year 2003, prior to that it was all belts. V6 engines still have timing belts.
it's music resembles to Plain White T's - Hey There Delilah.
September 24, 1948
It could depend on how you drive it, how much you sit at idle and it could be out of tune.
You do not have to reset the key fob when changing the battery.
first remove gas tank and seat for easy access. READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING. to save on carb cleaner do only one carb at a time first remove gas tank petcock and drain gas. most likely there is rust in it. trust me it will be your worst nightmare. clean petcock filter and inspect tank for rust, this most likely is your first problem. second, if you don't ride at least once a month aways turn gas off and let motor run until gas is used up in carbs. this might be hard on pistons but old un-leaded will ruin piston and vavles even faster. gas tank cleaning instructions will be at end nex't remove battery box and air cleaner housing wires attached to battery box should only fit one way, but you might want to tape and mark for later assembly now loosen all four clamps in front of carbs, don't remove clamps, only loosen,and unless the rubber is cracked and need replace don't loosen clamps from motor. [this will keep them in place when you re-install carbs]. then remove all 4 drain lines from carbs and leave in frame. now pull carbs loose, it might take a little extra help[big screwdriver] now that they are off place rags in holes to keep trash out of motor. now you can easily remove throttle and choke cables at this time DON'T separate carbs from linkage and brackets nex't you'll need about 10 steel coffee cans,9x12 bake pan,pipe cleanerscarb cleaner,and synthedic steel wool carefully remove bottom float bowls over newspaper or large clean surface and try not to break any gaskets unless you plan on buying a carb re-build kit place screws in one can,gaskets in another can. remove drain screws from bowls and place rubber 'o' rings in gasket can.[carb cleaner will destroy gaskets and rubber rings and seals] now place drain screws and bowls into separate cans label cans carb1,2,3,4, don't mix parts. fill can with bowls with carb cleaner until bowl is submerged carefully remove clip from float and place float and float jet in cleaner. nex't with large screwdriver unscrew brass jet housings and place in cleaner and let parts soak while you dis-assemble top of carbs. [ REMEMBER, DON'T PLACE RUBBER IN CLEANER] in 1979 you should have vaccum carbs remove screws and carefully remove. now inspect rubber diapham for cracks and holes. if rubber is good a little oil will soften them up. if they are bad or you cracked the gasket YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY A NEW CARB RE-BUILD KIT after this remove all top of carbs parts and place in separate cans and submerge in carb cleaner DON'T MIX TOP AND BOTTOM PARTS AND WATCH FOR SPRING JUPPING AWAY if you need to remove carbs from brackets and linkage, carefully don't mix parts it's best to use 9x12 pan now and soak all carbs at one time and let soak take pipe cleaners and clean all hole to remove all dirt and rust, with air compressor or canned air blow out all holes to make sure everything is clean, all other parts can be cleaned with steel wool.after cleaning take spray carb cleaner to remove any lint from pipe cleaners and steel wool and let dry after cleaning reverse dismantling and start re-assemble. after carbs are done replace choke and throttle cables remove rags and use alittle vasilene on rubber and carbs will slide on easier replace air filter box and install new air cleaner. then replace battery box and wires almost done, use small gas filter DON'T USE CLEAR GLASS FILTER, THEY ARE JUNK make sure gas flow arrow is going right direction. to clean gas tank get a hand full of marbles or ball bearing and go to the car wash.take alittle water and marbles put in tank and shake like heck this will loosen alot of the rust. dump out marbles and using engine cleanig or tire cleaning setting stick sprayer in tank and go and watch the grud come out rinse until water looks clean. use clean rags to soak excess water on the internet or local cycle savage a two part liquid gas tank liner. the three part cleaner system is not bad but the two part is better replace gas tank and your ready to go honda's won't run if the battery is bad and if the battery is good but low charge don't start car to jump off, your riding lawnmower has less amp and won't blow your fuses if you need pretty pictures and step by step mechanic instructions i recommend Haynes motorcycle manual #535 it covers all cb750& cb900 dohc fours from 1978-1984 I hope this helps superdave
Probably a spark plug is fouled up.Also check plug wires if you have an older model.
Well, I don't know what model of Honda you are talking about, but they are all pretty similar. Don't forget to check other things first that cause similar symptoms. A defective clutch switch (manual transmission) or neutral safety switch (automatic transmission) can both disable the ignition switch. If you are sure the ignition switch is the problem, then follow these steps: First, disconnect the negative battery cable. Next, you'll need to remove the plastic trim covering the steering column. Once you do that, the ignition switch should be exposed. Turn the Key to the "lock" position. It should be held on by a couple of bolts. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and remove the bolts. Install is reverse of removal.
The CRF80F user manual states that it holds 0.9 liters of oil which is equivalent to 1.0 US quart or 0.8 Imperial quarts.
I have a 85 Honda Magna VF700C and I get around 38 mpg in town and Hwy riding I get around 45 mpg Hope this helpsLenard
Process of elimination is needed, check/replace spark plug->check ignition coil>check pulse generator>check stator/AC generator>check kill switch. if all is well then check key switch for functionality if applicable to rule out CDI
Alot of bikes use a 2piece ignition coil, try pushing the plug cap onto the lead by screwing it on like you do a bolt to a nut.
Also try disconnecting the kill switch. for pulse generator, stator and ign coil you need to know the resistance values specific to the model to know weather they are past servicable limits. only other things are to make sure these wires are properly connected:
-stator to ign coil
-cdi to ign coil
-pulse generator to cdi
Go straight to the manufacturer. If you purchase directly from Honda the price will be better than if you go through a supplier that will charge more.
its impossible haha that's what im tryin to find!!!!
Chech a value guide _ Stoeger publishing puts out a paperback version I have seen at Wal mart for about $15 , there is also a Blue Book of Firearm values available usually at gun dealers , and check out the website GUNS AMERICA. Values are very dependant on condition , which is spelled out well in the Stoeger guide.
I have yet to work on a 94, but I have done many Honda starters. Hondas have changed very little since '78. There should only be 2 long bolts holding the starter to the transmission- a 12mm and a 14mm. Pick up a "Haynes" repair manual. They are much more user-frendly than a "Chiltons" manual. It will walk you through the whole operation.
1) disconnect the battery2) locate the starter (Staring at the engine, the starter is slightly hidden behind and below the distributor cap.)3) remove the wires and the two long bolts holding the starter in place4) install new starter
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
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