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Depending on the manufacturer, the average 110cc engine requires approximately 1 US quart of oil.

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The back wheels are the only wheels that actually move. The front wheels are the wheels that steer.

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if your quad runs out of oil 1 of 2 things will happen. the crank bearings will over heat and shred apart and that will cause your piston not to rotate around the crank like its suppose to and it will beat up your cylinder walls pretty bad. the other thing is if the crank bearings don't go first the piston could get the cylinder walls hot and fuse itself into the cylinder. i had the tube that oil flows from the reservoir into the case break and it shredded my bearings. $700 worth of parts.

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depends on size and brand, varies from around $4,000-14,000

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Between the air filter and the intake manifold.

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First of all this is not an easy task . On the left side of machine is your clutch cover . This needs to come off . The back fender is attached to the left foot rest by 2 bolts , take these off as they will help get clutch cover off . There is several screws to the cover . After the cover is off ,you will see the 2 clutches . Take the bolt out of the rear clutch and pull it straight out , this will allow you to take off drive belt . Then you need to take off the front clutch , which will require a special puller that screws in after you take out front clutch bolt . With both clutches off you need to remove the inner clutch backing plate . there is 3 or 4 screws by the end of crankshaft and 3 screws to the back of housing . With all this off the machine you can see the back of starter . There is a bracket that holdes the starter to the motor remove the 2 screws on top that hook to the motor . Un hook the nut that holds the battery cable to starter . Then go to other side of machine . The recoil starter assy has to be removed . When you get this off you can see the starter gear . There is 2 bolts that go into the starter that need to be removed . Then there is several small bolts that hold the skid plate under the machine . These need to come out and remove plate . Then you should be able to remove starter by pulling it to you from the clutch side . The starter drive will probably come too . There is one bolt on the recoil cover that is hard to get out . If you unhook the foot brake linkage and the spring , you can remove it through the hole that the spring hooks into .Good luck hope this helps you .

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Jy42vaw021c003974

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Ok the shaft drive is smoother as long as the shaft and bearings are maintained properly the belt drive will be close to the same smoothness but will have a slight vibration due to the design of the pulley teeth or cog and the belt tooth contact area. and the belt needs adjustments more often. hope that helps

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It might be that your clutch is not disengaging properly, so your gears won't shift.

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florwheeler

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2012 a.d.

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About 73

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Underneath and just about in the middle of the skid plate. There should be a hole in the skid plate so you can get at it. Hope that helps

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because ur a jew

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Type your answer here... hw old im i

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Because it's broken.--

Sounds like your tranny has had a malfunction or may have broken a gear . The only true way to know is to pull it off the machine and open it up.could be a simple fix.

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1999

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loosen the clamp bolts on the adjuster assy and rotate the whole axel using a pipe wrench, when your chain is properly set re tighten clamp bolts.

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Well, I tried this on my 86 tercel 4WD wagon, and I think the short answer is "you don't." The aisan carburetor on this model has a lot of little parts rattling around inside it (just like any carburetor, I suppose!) and it's difficult to get back together and have it run right. Plus, it needs to be calibrated to work with the feedback system installed on those vehicles. Mine works more or less, but I'm planning on just biting the bullet and buying a professionally rebuilt unit. I figured that after 150k miles, the car deserves it! Here's a link to a site I found that seems to carry the one I need:

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/cat-toyotacar.html

I saw some improvement after rebuilding mine, but the bigger problem might be the emission controls that work with the carb. I would consult a manual and check these out before tearing into the carb. Some people are putting Weber 32/36 carbs on the 3AC motor. Check out this thread:

http://tercel4wd.com/invision/index.php?act=ST&f=7&t=1112&s=3348c5c032d030e80de8bb4d27ff2d10

Good luck!

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right above the right foot rest and brake there will be a clear glass about the size of a quarter, you should be able to see the oil level. if not, it needs sum BAD

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Rancher 420 holds just under 3 quarts

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Order a new fender from your dealer, it is the easiest way to go. I have repaired a few with a drill and stainless tie wire. First, drill a small hole at the end of the crack then a few down each side of the crack. Then, use the wire to lace up the crack.

They do make plastic welding kits now to repair auto plastics used at body shops. It's about $60.00 for the kits to start. Then just buy refills.

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you are suppose to be 5 or 6 years old

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Banshee's or most two strokes that can be converted to run off alcohol. Of course, you would need a lot of modifications to make any four-wheeler faster. "800 Renegade" and the "Arctic Cat 1000" are hands down the fastest stock ATV being made today, but back in the "Banshees time, the "Banshee" was the king of trails.

Don't listen to them, the fastest ever four-wheeler (stock) is a "1987 Suzuki Quadzilla". 120 MPH brand new (stock) if you put the right mods it will go 130+. "Banshees", go 80 (stock) 120, maybe, with mods.

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The fuse box is located directly behind the battery. It is a box about 1 1/2 by 3 inches in size. There is an access panel held in place with two screws that must be removed to see it.