Look at the pan, the Turbo 400 pan is 16 5/8-inches long and 13 inches wide - it looks like a map of the state of Texas . - The Turbo 350 pan is like a square with a corner cut off and is 13 1/2 inches long and 13 wide.
Read more: How to Identify a Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 Transmission | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7423514_identify-350-turbo-400-transmission.html#ixzz2DV3H19xj
The Yamaha Governor is attached to the top of the fuel pump. Remove the governor retaining screws. The governor will come off.
All vehicles have instruction manuals. Considering vehicles are made differently, it is best to refer to it for any repairs. The removal of a transmission in s a 95 Nissan 4x4 pickup would be instructed in the manual for the vehicle.
When it quits pushing the car forward, you need a new one (sorry, but your question really was begging for that). If it makes funny (clunking, grinding, scraping, etc.) noises, you may want to have it checked out. Be careful about the noises thought, because there are thousands of other things on a car that can make weird noises besides a transmission. If you find a good tranny shop (NEVER go to the dealer, they charge about $2000 above what its worth), they'll usually look at it, diagnose any problems, and give you an estimated repair cost for free. Search in the yellow pages for privately owned shops, or start asking around, somebody is bound to be able to recommend a good one in your area. Also, you may want to call 2 or even 3 different shops for quotes, because they tend to vary a lot in the way of price, and how long it will take to repair.
I have a 1999 Mazda 626 with the CD4E transmission that had the engine code 1744. The transmission in my car would slip after the fluid was warm. My car had 123000 miles on it and had the transmission rebuilt once before. There are brass bushings inside this transmission that were worn out on my car. I bought a newer CD4E transmission from Ebay (40,000 miles) and put a shift kit in in with a new torque cnverter and new gaskets. The shift kit comes with drill bits to increase the size of the lub ports to increase oil flow to bushings. The previous rebuild was $1200 but obviously they did not change all the parts that needed changed or used the wrong parts. These transmissions are expensive and can be hard to find. I got one from a Ford Escape but had to use the old bell housing because the Ford Escape has a different starter mount. I was told they could not be interchanged but for me it worked.
there is a serial # on the side of the tranny that when decoded will tell you all the info.
First, you'd need to find a live axle for the front, and ensure the gear ratios in both differentials matched up. You'd have to do a complete front axle swap, and might also need to add a leaf spring or two to the front, as 2WD vehicles typically sit much lower than 4WD vehicles. If you have to raise it high enough, new struts and a new Pitman arm will also be in order.
The transmission will likely have to be replaced, or you'll have to replace the casing in order to have a mounting surface for the transfer case. Then you'll need to replace your driveshaft, as the one in a 2wd truck will be longer than what you need for a 4WD drive truck with a transfer case attached to the back of the transmission. You'll also need a crossmember for the transfer case to sit on, plus a driveshaft for the front axle.
This is a job of extreme difficulty/skill level and should only be done be experienced technicians. The transmission cooling lines need to be disconnected. The transmission then needs to be supported. The transmission mount can be disconnected followed by the bell housing bolts which fasten the assembly to the engine. The drive shaft can then be dropped. Lastly the bell housing bolts can be removed allowing the assembly to be lowered.?æ
I have a fuller 10 speed transmission, everything is complete, except the three wires that conect to the shift-box on the rear-end are not conected, one is green, one is yellow and one is black, I want to know which wire is hi and which wire is low
Did you know that derailleurs are essentially interchangeable between road bikes & mountain bikes? Yep! They work exactly the same way in both applications. Of course you still have to match up your derailleur to your shifter in make & gear sizing but you can put a Shimano XTR derailleur on a road bike and vice versa. Although I don't know why one would put an Ultegra or (godsakes) Dura-Ace derailleur on a mountain bike. But don't be too surprised to see the opposite. Mountain bike components are tougher components! So for situations requiring enhanced reliability, you might see a mountain bike derailleur, especially the rear derailleur on a cyclocross bike or a tandem bike.
adjusting the front derailleur
adjusting the rear derailleur
lubricating points on the rear derailleur
DERAILLEUR - Looks like a funny name doesn't it? It's French, ya know. (They got a different word for everything.) The job of the derailleur is to change the gear that your chain is riding on. Anywhere on the bike that you can have more than one gear, you'll have a derailleur. Most bikes will have a front and a rear derailleur.
Shimano XTR Rear Derailleur
Shimano XTR Front Derailleur
Single Speed bikes have no derailleur at all. As per their name, they have only one speed (or one gear). That lightens them as they don't have a front or rear derailleur, extra gears and shifters. These bikes are typically loved by the people who value the classic styles. Bike messengers often use single speeds. Track bikes are a special form of single speed. It's a fixed gear single speed meaning that it does not have a freewheel. This in turn means that the pedals will revolve constanly in synchronous motion with the wheels. This type of bike will definitely teach you to spin correctly on your pedals.
LUBRICATING YOUR DERAILLEUR - The picture above has red circles to point out the lubrication points of your derailleur. These are the primary hing points from which the derailleur will extend. Use a light oil like WD-40, Tri-Flo or machine oil. Motor oil will only gunk things up and so will a paraffin or wax based oil. This should be done about once a month.
If your derailleur was recently installed or if you know that you took a direct impact to your front derailleur, then the first thing you should check is the air gap between the big chainring and the bottom of the front derailleur.
The picture gives you an idea of what the spacing should look like. Of course, it shouldn't be so close as to touch the chainring and not so big that the chain can slip through the gap. Adjustment to the gap is made by adjusting the derailleur itself by moving the whole clamp up or down by loosening the clamp or bolts that affix your derailleur to the bike.
(left picture) You'll see 2 screws on the top of your front derailleur. Our first step will be to adjust the inside screw (#1). The purpose of screw #1 is to limit the inward travel of the derailleur so that your chain doesn't come off the small chainring and land on your frame. It also moves the derailleur cage so that the chain won't rub on it while you're pedaling.
Put the chain on the front small chain ring and the largest rear cog. There should be a 1/16" gap between the chain and the inner side of the derailleur cage (#2). If not, adjust screw #1. Rotate the pedals and shift the chain to the middle of the rear cassette. Now shift the front derailleur to go between the large & small chainrings a few times to watch to ensure that the chain falls down from the large chainring and down onto the smaller chainring easily & without any rubbing on the derailleur. There should still be a 1/16" gap between the inner side of the derailleur cage and the chain (#2).
(right picture) The outside screw (#1) limits the travel to the outside of the big chainring so that it doesn't fall off the chainring and controls the smoothness of the shift from the small to the large chainring.
Put the chain on the front small chainring and on the smallest rear cog. Rotate your pedals and shift your front derailleur to the large chainring watching that the chain should jump up onto the large chainring without overshooting it. If the chain is overshooting the large chainring, then tighen screw #1 and repeat your shifting obserations. When you're done, there should be a 1/8" gap between the chain and the outer side of the derailleur cage while the chain is on the front large chainring and the smallest rear cog (#2).
(left picture) This picture just serves to illustrate the gap between the chain and the side of the derailleur. The picture shows the chain on the large chainring. Basically, you want the closest gap possible wihout the chain rubbing and still allow for smooth shifting transitions. To check the potential for rubbing at the point when the chain is closest to the derailleur cage, the chain must be on the outermost front ring and rear gear and conversely the innermost front ring and rear gear.
The upper right diagram shows the derailleur in the position with no tension on the derailleur cable. If you were attaching the derailleur cable then you'd allow the derailleur to fall into this position and simply tighten down the cable with just the slighest tension. After this is done, we'll adjust the derailleur's range of movement.
The B screw is the only screw that is used to move the derailleur body closer or farther to the rear cogs. You certainly don't want the derailleur body to touch the rear cogs and you don't want so much of a gap that the chain can come off the cog. This screw hardly ever needs adjusting unless you've taken a hit to your rear derailleur. Adjust it so that your chain runs off of the
derailleur and onto the cog in a straight line without the derailleur ever touching the cog.
You can see from the upper left diagram how the derailleur cogs lines up underneath the two outermost cogs when the chain is on the two outermost cogs. This alignment is made by the use of the H screw (high gear screw) and the L screw (low gear screw). Sometimes you may actually see an "H", "L", "HI" or "LO" stamped on the derailleur near these screws, but even the markings are not there, the order of the screws are almost always the same in that the topmost screw (of the set of two screws together) is your high limit screw.
HIGH GEAR SCREW
LOW GEAR SCREW
Use the L screw to adjust the low gear's alignment
Use the H screw to adjust the high gear's alignment
On your rear cassette, the small (outermost) cog is the high gear while the largest (innermost) cog is the low gear.
ADJUSTING THE REAR DERAILLEUR
To set the high gear screw, shift the front derailleur to the large chainring and the rear derailleur to the smallest cog. Stand behind the bike and eyeball the alignment. The derailleur cogs should be in line with the smallest cog. If not, adjust the H screw so that it is in line. If you see that the top derailleur cog is in line but the bottom derailleur cog is not, now is the time to say your favorite cuss word. Your derailleur is bent! If it's not too far off, you can grasp it and bend it back (or you might want a bike shop do this for you).
To set the low gear screw, shift the front derailleur to the small chainring and the rear derailleur to the largest cog. Stand behind the bike and eyeball the alignment. The derailleur cogs should be in line with the smallest cog. If not, adjust the L screw so that it is in line.
Now rotate your cranks and shift the rear derailleur from one end of the cassette to the other. Your limit settings should prevent the chain from falling off of the rear cassette.
Be EXTRA CAREFUL when rotating the cranks if you've adjusted the L screw (low gear). If your adjustment is not
correct, the chain could fall in between the cassette and the hub/spokes. If this happens while you're still cranking, you could really lock up the chain hard, causing minor damage. You could also get the derailleur caught in the spokes which is VERY BAD. So if you did ajust the L screw, then slowly and carefully rotate the cranks while shifting to your largest cog.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT DERAILLEUR
The rear derailleur's cable barrel adjusts the tension in the derailleur cable. It is used to smooth out your shifting if you find that your shifting is too slow or grinds a bit on the cassette before it makes the jump.
Imagine the barrel as a nut screwing onto a bolt while you're standing behind the bicycle. From behind the bike, if you turn the barrel clockwise, you're tightening the barrel which shortens the barrel housing and therefore lessens the tension on the cable because the barrel will move inward towards the derailleur. This action will cause the derailleur to move towards the smallest cog.
If you turn the barrel counterclockwise then it moves away from the derailleur, elongating the barrel housing which increases the tension in the derailleur cable which in turn will cause the derailleur to move in the direction of the largest cog.
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adjusting the barrel on the rear derailleur
put the vehicle in neutral. remove rubber boot that is around the gear shift where it goes thru floor.u will see at bottom of shift a ball. push down on this ball and twist it.it has 2 pins that hold it in place ,sort of like a light bulb.when u twist it, it will clear the pins,u then just lift the shifter out of the tansmission
Transmission is the 2nd member of the power train Engine is 1st member
Differential is the 3rd member Transmission - transmits power from the engine to the differential allowing vehicle to move
Although Wal-Mart tends to sell really cheap batteries under a good name (Rayovac) at about 97/98 cents(plus tax), most AA batteries cost anywhere from $4 up to about $16 dollars depending on how many batteries are in the pack and depending on brand.
Based on information that is generated within the transmission and other sensors in the engine, the solenoid (or any one of them) controls certain functions of the transmission such as changing gears.
Won't GO in gear - check fluids
Won't go INTO gear - Trans linkage loose or broken. Worse - trans pump or pump shaft is broken .
Won't come out of park - check the brake light fuse, it may be blown.
The answer is: any force equal to or greater than the forward momentum of the truck. So many variables enter into calculating a precise measurement of force needed to stop a vehicle - mass of the vehicle, conditions of friction and gravity - is the truck going uphill or downhill, or on a flat surface? Is the road slippery, smooth or rough?
Let's assume that normal conditions apply: a truck weighing 10,000 Kg traveling at an acceleration rate of 5m/s² along a flat smooth surface. Using Newton's second Law of Motion, expressed as a formula F=ma, where F is the Net Force (the sum of all forces acting on an object) in Newtons, m is the mass of the truck, and a is its acceleration rate, assumed here to be 5m/s². By multiplying the mass times acceleration, we see that a whopping 50,000 Newtons would be required to stop this truck. By comparison, the pull of gravity on a person of average weight (72 Kg, or 160 lb) is measured at 686 Newtons. So depending on the type of truck, weather conditions, wind speed, direction of the truck, and effect of gravity and friction (all included in net force, or Newtons) you can see that the actual Force, expressed as N, is a variable.
It is the area between the engine and transmission.
Your car might kick when you shift from park to drive if your transmission fluid is low or very dirty. You might also have worn gears in the transmission.
Most likely the plates or discs in the transmission are stuck together. There is really nothing to be done but repair or replace the transmission. I assume this is an automatic. They tend to fuse together so additives do not help.
Rear shaft = 1/2 hr to pull the shaft & 1/2 hr to change each u-joint. Front wheel joints about 1.4 hrs per side Front shaft u-joints (non cv), 1/2 hr to pull the shaft & 1/2 per u-joint These are approx times only
In Grand Chrokees, there are various rear ends that require different fluids. You'll need to take your VIN number and call the parts department of your local Jeep dealer. Ask them. Don't guess. You might cause damage.
Pull the transmission and change it. The torque converter is inside the bell housing on the front of the transmission. Only way to get it out is to pull the transmission.
I am sure automatic was your first choice, and now you want a manual. It is best to trade in your current Tc and get manual one. The money you have to spend to have manual transmission installed, it would be wiser to use it towards your down payment. two much and not worth it you should have got a manual from the start yes u can convert from automatic to manual.. however it is not a simple task! you need whole new tranmission, then clutch, fly wheel and so on. it would be lot cheaper to trade in automatic for manual car. to find out the estimate, check your local import performance shop! Theoretically, but it would be very complicated and expensive. You would need (at least) the complete transmission/flywheel/mounts/shifter/shift cables & all brackets/interior console/engine computer from a manual tC. It is possible that you would have to weld or cut to make up differences in mounting locations for manual parts. It would be significantly cheaper, easier and faster to simply purchase a manual tC.
Its hard to say without you posting the year,make,model,engine,etc. But just guessing yes it could. on a lot of newer vehicles, the transmission needs to know how fast the car is going. This is one of 2 things the transmission needs know before it can function properly. The other is engine load.