Being a professional glass installer... You DON'T want to tackle this job.This job requires you to remove the outer door skin and the inner door panel. I would take it to your local glass shop.
For the DIYer there are some helpful videos on Youtube that explain how to take off the inner and outer door panels and glass from a Saturn SL1.
I'm a novice at body work but the videos worked for me as long as you have the right tools and torx bits. The panels can be removed in about a 1/2 hour.
The window motor itself maybe a different story, the motor is riveted onto the whole of the lift assembly which looks to make it quite difficult to replace by itself. Fortunately it isn't difficult to get the whole lift assembly off and out of the door and which you would need to do to replace just the motor. However, you may be easier to replace the whole window lift assembly at this point. That's where I am at in my thinking having a window motor myself that has stripped nylon gears inside of it.
Maybe someone else has an explanation of how to just replace the motor using the existing assembly.
first start by removeing the battery and air cleaner assembly and the you will have access to the starter. then remove the 2 14m bolts that hold in the starter and remove and replaced reinstall all parts and your done.
To replace the heater core of a 1985 Bronco 2, open the glove box and push on the 2 tabs that hold it in place. After removing the entire glove box, remove the round plastic screws of the heater core. Remove the old and replace with a new one.
1) Remove the neg.(-) cable from the battery. 2) you may need to jack up the vehicle to working height. Be sure to install jack stands under the veh. make sure that the veh. is secure and safe to be under. 3) locate starter. remove the positive battery cable from starter. then remove the starter retaining bolts. may be a 2 or 3 bolt starter. 4) before taking the starter to the parts house for replacement. check the starter to be sure that you are replacing the bad part. do this with a simple set of jumper cables and a good battery. connect the positive leads of ther cables to positive (+) on the battery and the starter lug (+). the neg (-) leads to the neg (-) battery. now take the only neg (-) cable end left and touch the body of the starter ( where the mount holes are) you 'll get a spark, but the starter should spin and the bendix will come out.if no spinning or slow spinning and a real heavy sparking then the starter needs replacing. these instructions can be utilized for almost any vehicle application.
If it is similar to a 2000 Avalon panel, there were a total of of 7 screws and two door panel clips. One screw is in the handle itself (is that what you are fixing?), behind a square plastic tab. A large sgrew is revealed by prying up the armrest cover. Two screws are hidden under round tabs. All of the prying is done easily but by carfeully using a taped flat bladed screwdriver.
It took me about twenty minutes, after I read an online description on changing a Camry door handle for the same model year. My handle also broke. The procedures were same but the cost at my Toyota for the Avalon parts were much higher than the stated Camry parts. I live in Hawaii.
The running back for the Denver Broncos Know is Knowshon Moreno
I just found it somewhere on the net - My 1990 with a 2.9 holds 7 quarts - 8 quarts with no AC.
Unless a fuse is defective from the start, the "blowing" of a fuse is an indication of either an overload condition, or a short somewhere in the circuit.
The occasional fuse blowing described in the earlier stages suggests an intermittent short circuit.
The most recent blowing of each new fuse immediately upon installation indicates that the short circuit has gotten worse, and is no longer intermittent, but complete and continuous.
To continue to replace fuses will do nothing to correct the short circuit.
The proper way to correct the short circuit is to troubleshoot every switch, connector, conductor wire, and device in that circuit.
You will be looking for a cut or pinched wire in which an energized ["hot"] metal wire conductor is in contact with grounded body sheet metal of the vehicle, OR where a hot conductor is in contact with the metal wire of a ground conductor.
If neither of these is present, the probability is suggested that the short is internal to a switch or device.
-->>THERE IS A RECALL!!!!! PLEASE READ!<<--
That fuse also feeds the notorious 'cruise control cancel switch' which screws into the brake master cylinder under the hood. The diaphragm in the switch will fail, allowing brake fluid to leak into the electrical parts causing a resistive short. So far, you've been lucky that the fuse is blowing, instead of the wiring catching fire. To see if that is your problem, simply unplug the switch and see if the fuse keeps blowing.
put the vehicle in neutral. remove rubber boot that is around the gear shift where it goes thru floor.u will see at bottom of shift a ball. push down on this ball and twist it.it has 2 pins that hold it in place ,sort of like a light bulb.when u twist it, it will clear the pins,u then just lift the shifter out of the tansmission
How much 'older'? I have a '78 Bronco. Ignition switch has a bezel ring that secures the switch to the dash. Simply unscrew the ring from the front, then pull switch assembly from the rear of dash. Once it is free from dash there are plastic clips holding the assy together.
re; replacing a starter on a 1987 cutlass cierra is very hard as the one in mine just went. it is best to bring it to a mechanic as the whole engine has to be jacked up and it is well over a 3 hour job. cost me around $300 that was with new starter and labor and it was worth it prices will vary wherever you live. hope that helps
start by having the battery checked. If the battery is good, then check the starter relay. If this is bad, repalce the starter. Also check battery connections. Sometimes they can seem tight but just aren't. Take them off the battery terminals and clean them. This will also stop your batter from charging.
I believe it was A.C. Cowling
The Ford Bronco transmission can use any SAE certified transmission fluid. Ford transmissions manufactured before 1979 will need an F type transmission fluid.
Replace the pick up coil it's inside the distributor. This may fix it.
1989 Bronco11 back hatch door won,t open
If you look on the cover to the fuses, or in your owner manual, it tells you what each fuse is for.
Iron reacts with oxygen in the air to from Iron Oxide, commonly Iron (IV) Oxide. Iron oxide is a weaker, more brittle material, and is reddish brown. So when you see rust, it is not longer the iron, but an entirely new material.
It is like Dough to a burnt crust. It used to be the stronger dough, but has changed into something completely different which is easy to crumple.
I have a 98 Malibu with a similar problem (hot engine stall). Let sit for 5 minutes and runs fine. Other posts have directed me to the TCC Solenoid and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I will be unhooking the TCC Solenoid to see if this clears the problem. If so, then it will be replaced.
The most common stroker kits out there allow for up to 557 cubic inches with a passenger car cylinder block, by using a 4.50" stroke crankshaft and a 4.44" bore piston. Larger overbores may or may not be possible, depending on the cylinder block selected and how thick the cylinder walls may be with that particular block (sonic check the cylinders to determine max bore capability of the block selected). Unlike the BBC's, 4.50" stroke with the passenger car 460 block is always possible without any crankcase clearancing needed. Paul Kane www.highflowdynamics.com/
Break the windows.