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Remove the exaust pipes. Remove the transmission. It is located inside the bell housing section of the transmission.

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if you can ,lay on your back in the drivers seat and look below the key cylinder.you will see a small hole in the trim.but don't mistake it for the screw holes for the trim.insert the key in the lock ,use somtheng like a pick and insert it through the hole and push on the release button,turn the key to the run positin while pushing ofn the button.

To remove dash, pull off decorative trim on bottom. left of steering wheel is about a 7 inch piece, right of SW is about 22 inches, behind these are Bristol screws to remove the bottom of the dash cover, top of dash cover has Bristol screws whcih you can see. Must remove AC/Heater/headlight switch knobs.

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YES, any motor will fit in any body. IF you are willing to do the work of changing all the accessories. The computer, wiring harness, exhaust,ect. call Ford and ask them.

yes a ford bronco can have a lighting motor. it just takes alot of new parts and time.

well it depends on what year of the lightnings, if you want the 1st gen which had the 5.8 in it its just an easy swap it will bolt right up with your stock tranny and mounts if you have the 5.0 or 5.8. the supercharged 5.4 will require the work. cpu, tranny, engine/tranny/fuel harnesses, crossmembers, etc..

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You don't have an alternator belt, it is called a serpentine belt. It is very easy to change on the Z-tec engine, you just loosen up the tensioner pully bolt (turn it with a wrench) and the belt will come right off. look on the belt diagram sticker on the engine if you don't know where the tensioner pully is.

They don't have a belt diagram sticker on this vehicle so take care to remember how belt is put on or track down diagram on line, also much easier to install if raised in the air since tensioner is on bottom of vehicle

Steps to Replace 2003 ZX2 Serpetine Belt:

Make sure you need to replace the belt. My factory manual says cracks in the Vs is okay. Only missing chunks indicate the belt should be replaced.

Before removing the old belt, make sure you have a diagram. It would take a long time to figure it out from scratch. (Best I can tell, there's a difference between early and late ZX2s. Maybe Escort too.)

Remove the left wheel and remove the splash shield.

Use a 13mm wrench on the bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner clockwise to take tension off the belt and remove the old belt.

String the new belt over all pulleys except for the water pump. (A straightened coat hanger wire with a hook bent on the end is a good tool to get the belt positioned.)

The final belt routing requires that the wrench that is turning the tensioner clockwise be held in the wheel well as the belt is positioned over the water pump from under the hood. An extra person would be best, but I used a vise-grip to block the wrench while I went under the hood.

Not a bad task. Most of my time was spent deciding that I had to remove the wheel.

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yes. also full size ford cars too. crown vics marquis and jeep Cherokee also.

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1966 Ford came out with the small, boxy bronco (First Chassis)

1978 Ford Bronco went full size (Second Chassis line)

1980 Ford gave the bronco independent front suspension (Third Chassis line)

1996 Last year of the bronco

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to change the transmission in a 97 Ford Taurus you must jack up the vehicle, remove the air cleaner box,the battery and the battery tray, remove the transmission pan and drain the transmission fluid, put the pan back on when all of fluid has been drained, unbolt the exhaust from the manifolds, undo the bellhousing bolts, undo the shift linkage and all electrical plugins, you may want to remove the vehicle speed sensor so it doesn't become broke when the transmission is removed, remove the starter, the torque converter bolts there should be 4, undo the ball joints on both sides,remove axle nuts, then half shafts, Remove the four subframe bolts, and the two nuts on the rack and pinion then lower the subframe, tie the drivers side strut back so you can slide the transmission out. to put the transmission in do the opposite of these procedures.

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YES! I have one. Its just the remote start manual correct, cuz the 560xv is the remote start and alarm model.

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1) Remove the neg.(-) cable from the battery. 2) you may need to jack up the vehicle to working height. Be sure to install jack stands under the veh. make sure that the veh. is secure and safe to be under. 3) locate starter. remove the positive battery cable from starter. then remove the starter retaining bolts. may be a 2 or 3 bolt starter. 4) before taking the starter to the parts house for replacement. check the starter to be sure that you are replacing the bad part. do this with a simple set of jumper cables and a good battery. connect the positive leads of ther cables to positive (+) on the battery and the starter lug (+). the neg (-) leads to the neg (-) battery. now take the only neg (-) cable end left and touch the body of the starter ( where the mount holes are) you 'll get a spark, but the starter should spin and the bendix will come out.if no spinning or slow spinning and a real heavy sparking then the starter needs replacing. these instructions can be utilized for almost any vehicle application.

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You need to take the gauges out and take the cluster apart to get to the inside of the cover. Maybe a manual from a parts store will have the correct procedure for this.

I suppose the 94 is like my 95. If so, this answer is wrong. Take the dash trim off. First, pull off the small trim pieces below the instrument cluster (marked with XLT if yours is an XLT like mine) (they pop off easy). There are a couple of screws behind the small trim pieces that hold the dash on partially. Remove these, then start easing the black dash panel (I presume they are all black, but I don't know that) off from the substructure. Be careful, this piece is also held on by push on clips at the top that can break (pretty easy, to my chagrin!). It will pop loose, but not off. The wires going to the rear window switch and the headlight knob are still in place holding it on. The headlight knob just pulls off, but the connector for the rear window needs to be released with a small screwdriver or something under the latch. Now the dash should come off over the top of the steering wheel. The plexiglass cover is held on by 7 brass screws. The top ones are difficult to get to, but I managed with a 7/32 ignition wrench. The rest can be taken off with a nut driver or socket.

Be careful cleaning the plexiglass cover - it scratches easy! I used ScratchX by Meguiar's and a drill based polishing pad to clean it. Mine was filthy, though, and others may be easy enough to clean by hand. I tried various cleaners to remove the grime, but they didn't work. Polishing it was wonderful, though, except for the few scratches I put in it by trying to clean it before I polished it. I had a 3M Headlight restoration kit left over from doing the headlights (fantastic job, BTW) and I used the polishing pad from the kit.

Reinstallation should be obvious, once you've gone through the removal steps. Be careful about the mounting clips. If you break them, Gorilla Glue works pretty good at repairing them, but it takes a long time to set up and it foams, so you might have to trim away some of the glue to make things fit properly.

I hope that helped.

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start by having the battery checked. If the battery is good, then check the starter relay. If this is bad, repalce the starter. Also check battery connections. Sometimes they can seem tight but just aren't. Take them off the battery terminals and clean them. This will also stop your batter from charging.

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5" x 5.47"

-or-

5" x 139mm

Checked with tirerack.com using a stock 15" x 7" wheel. Of course if it was not freezing outside I would walk my lazy rear down there and look at the truck.

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Hey April==You need to state wheather it is a 2 ot 4 wheel drive. If it is 2 wheel drive, simply remove the caliper first, then remove the spindle nut and pull the rotor off of the car with the hub. If it is a 4 wheel drive, I suggest you get a manual on your truck from Auto Zone for about $18 and it will give you pictures and everything. Goodluck, Joe

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Alternator is accessible from under the vehicle, a/c compressor needs to be loosened to get to it.

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had an 88 that somebody put in a tail light bulb wrong, and was back feeding & would stall the engine every time

Yes, when I saw this issue, I immediately thought bad grounding. Check that the ground strap between the engine and the frame of the car is secure and has good contact. Had a Fiat one time that did the speedo thing when this condition was present. Did lots of wierd things until the strap went back on

Could be your TPS (throttle posistion sensor) sensor

I just need to say that it's very unlikey that the taillight builb in the 88 was the actual problem, an 88 didn't have enough elecftrical systems to have problems with electrical feedback.....and it most likely is the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the IAC (idle air controller), the ground wire that is connected on the bottom left (from standing in front of the truck) is actually an extra ground but there are some systems that use that as the main ground. Check that ground anyway because it is a common problem for those gm's (Chevy and gmc, both gm vehicles) but test your IAC and TPS first

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Hey Mike==It is on the back of the engine and you first remove the neg battery cable then the cables off of the starter then take the bolts out and workit out among the exharst . GoodluckJoe

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I just did this today (Jan 1, 2005) here is how I did it. Tools: 10mm box end wrench ratchet handle 10mm socket 10mm deep socket (much easier for one bolt) 1/2" socket 13mm box end wrench tire ramps or a floor jack with stands 1. Jack up car and disconnect the negative (black) battery cable. use 10mm wrench to loosen terminal clamp. 2. Remove the 5 or six dust shroud bolts on the passenger side, 10mm socket, set dust shroud aside. 3. Remove the 2 hanging bolts on the coolant resivoir (the deep socket and a extension bar are helpful here) set the resivoir (with tubing still attached) aside. 4. Now you can easily get to the accessory belt. Follow the procedure on this (http://www.rldassociates.com/zx2/howto/belt.htm) page to get the v-ribbed belt off. 5. Remove the two molex plugs, use a flat head screwdrive to lift the catches on these plugs. Just below these two, locate the positive lead from the alt. it has a soft red cap. Use the 10mm socket to take it off. 6. There are 3 gold tone mounting bolts for the alternator, 1 up top, 2 underneath, use the 1/2" to take off the bottom two and then support the alt. while you take out the top one. 7. Its free! It might take a little rotation to get it out past the lines. 8. Hang onto the junk alternator, it fetches a core charge for up to 75$ Autozone will sell you another one for 109 plus tax (with the old one) 9. Retrace your steps with the new one and your off. GOOD LUCK! (if the link should be broken, the tensioner pulley is just above a/c compressor, pull on it with a 13mm wrench towards the back of the car to loosen the belt)

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Which Lincoln? The Taurus is FWD and most Lincolns are RWD, but the Continental (~'95-on) uses the AX4N transmission which shares the bellhousing bolt pattern with th e Taurus. It would bolt up, but I wouldn't suggest doing it.

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you may have to remove the battery and then there should be a smaller round holister behind the light in the motor capartment all you should have to do is twist it off and then the light bulb should pull right out and then pull the bulb out of the holister (wiring harness) and then put the new one in and then put the holister back in the light assembley (it best not to touch the new light bulbs glass there are extremely fragile).

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There shouldn't be. The negative battery cable should ground to the block or the frams. There are three connections on the starter if the solenoid is on the starter as it is on a Sable. The biggest connection is for the positive battery cable. The one directly underneath it is where the braided cable coming out of the starter is connected, and the spade connector is where the ignition switch wire slides on. The starter itself usually grounds by being mounted in place through the starter bolts. but some ground internally through the brushes. .

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Changing the dash lights is easy. you can change them all in less then five mins. However... Getting to the dash lights is a bit time consuming.

Before doing this, you may want to ensure that your headlight switch is not the problem. The dim/bright adjustment became defective and was the main cause of my dashlights not coming on.

Easy way to check is to turn the dim/bright to the full on position, this will light up all all of the dash lights including the radio and heater/defroster lights. If this does the trick then replace the Headlight switch.

If not follow the guide below. (I also had to replace some lights)

1) Carefully remove trim around driver side dash (upper and lower trim)a flat head screw driver normally does the trick.

2) Locate all the screws they will be starshaped heads, get the screw bits, it will make work go faster.

3) Start removing the screws. you will have to remove the headlight and wiperblade knobs.

4) you will need to remove the upper and lower shields then you will have access to the guage compartment.

5) you will need to remove the trip around the plastic gauage shield.

6) remove the guage sheild.

7) you should have access to the guages.

8) remove the guage trim, it is the plastic dividers between the guages, it is there to cover the seams.

9) remove the guages. once you remove the screws the guages will pull out. Becareful not to damage the conncetions on the back of the guages

10) you should now see the lightbulbs. They remove fairly easily.

11) turn on the lights to ensure everything works.

12) reassemble in the reverse order.

Good Luck. And again it is highly advisable that you ensure you have the starshaped screw bits of various sizes. Wal-mart normally carries a small set for a few bucks.

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R12 unless it has been retrofitted for R134.