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* It should be specified in the owners manual, and if not, they are relatively cheap ($3-$8) so you could do it when you do a tune up. Check it by popping it off with the engine off (it is located on the top of the engine usually and connected by a small hose) and shake it. It should rattle. If not, it is clogged and needs to be replaced. Here are more opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: * PCV valves are probably the easiest and cheapest part of keeping the engining running smoothly. They should be changed annually or at least every 2 years. * How often? NEVER. Trade secret among mechanics is take it off every 10-15k miles and soak it in gasoline or other solvent to remove all the gummy oil deposits left by venting the crankcase.All it is is a check valve that is activated by the amount of vacuum a motor creates. I've never bought a new PCV valve for any of the cars I've owned since I started driving 35 year ago. Back then of course,you could work on your car unlike today.Lift the hood and you can't even see the road where as before,you could climb inside under the hood and still have enough room to work.Now you HAVE to bring your car back to the dealer to have it worked on because of all the sensors,valves,computer modules etc etc.People...it's a scam! Save your money on a new PCV valve and just use a little gas from your lawn mower to clean the one you have. * The pcv should be replaced every 35,000 miles. Just cleaning the pcv is not enough. The part that fails on the pcv is the spring and cleaning it will do nothing. This part is cheap and can have a significant impact of gas mileage and on how smooth the car runs. Not the place to be cheap.

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If it's similar to the 1994, it's pretty easy. The heater core sits on the passenger side inside the cab, and there will be two hoses running through the firewall. It should just be a simple matter of disconnecting the heater hoses, and removing whatever mounting bracket is holding it in place (screws or bolts). I replaced mine with a borrowed tool kit in about 10-15 minutes in a Suburban Lodge parking lot in Charlotte, NC back in 2000. I've always wanted to tell someone that story. Seriously, it won't be that difficult, just have a bucket to catch the little bit of antifreeze from the hoses.

It's one of the easiest cores to replace that I have encountered. Disconnect heater hoses at firewall. Probably doesn't matter about hose placement, but I always mark them just in case. To remove the fiber cover under dash, take a flatblade screwdriver and prise out the center pin of the expansion clips that hold it in place. There are four 5/16 head screws that hold the bottom/drain tray cover. Core will pull through the firewall and then down. You may have to silicone/glue or replace the foam seal strips on the new core. Before you install the core, check the distance between the inlet and outlet tubes to ensure they match the openings in the firewall. This saves time. It helps if you have someone on the outside to guide you when stabbing the tubes through the firewall. Replace bottom cover. You may have to hold one of the tubes when reinstalling the first hose to the core. Replace any lost coolant and check for leaks prior to reinstalling the fiber cover. If the cover seal is in good condition, any leak should drain through the firewall, otherwise it may leak inside cab. These days with parts from Mexico and others, it is not uncommon to get a new defective part.

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Yes, all wheels run on wheel bearings.

The noise could be a worn or damaged bearing, rust on the brake drum or disk, sticking parking brake, or under-inflated tires. Many garages will do a free brake inspection and they should show you and explain the problem they find if any.

Axles have ball bearings pressed on them and grease would be leaking from them if bad. Shocks can be noisy if you have unusual tire wear, cupping. Loose U-joint can be checked if you have the knick knick sound. Of course a dry axle housing causes a lot of noise and broke teeth can stop you from moving. If you suspect it pull inspection cover and see if there is a lot of loose metal pieces in the grease. It isn't unusual to break a gear tooth in the axle. Especially if you heavy trailer a lot.

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first pull off the line going to it and if it has fluid in it change the modulator. Next, take the modulator off and apply vacuum to the line and stick a screw driver in the end of the modulator and see if the diaphragm moves the valve inside. If the valve doesn't move, replace the modualtor.

- i am assuming ford but also you can pull the vac.line off of carb.or wherever it draws the vacume from without getting under car and check for fluid at that point

Consider getting yourself a service manual as it contains many troubleshooting for your car. Comes very handy sometimes.

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One possible reason is arcing inside the lamp socket. Loose bulbs can arc inside the socket. One sure sign of arcing is if the light "flickers" when it is on. Take the bulb out of the fixture and examine the contacts on the base. If any part of the base appears burned, there is arcing inside the socket. Arcing can cause a bulb to blow prematurely. Make sure the bulb is tight when istalling a new one. The best cure is to replace either the socket if it's removable, or the whole fixture if it's not. Also if it's an enclosed fixture, the heat from the light bulb can get trapped inside, causing the bulb to overheat, thereby causing it to fail prematurely. This is likely if you have too large a light bulb in the fixture, i.e. using a 100 watt bulb in a fixture designed for a 60 watt bulb. Try a lower wattage bulb.

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HUGE short in the wiring. i would check for any disconnected wires that are laying against metal. i would also trace the wire from the temp sensor to the dash to see if it is broken and/or shorting out. because the car is overheated and its too hot to start. when you turn the key to the start position the fan should kick on and try to cool the car off. the problem is the thermostat. you will have to replace the thermostat to prevent future overheating. some vehicles have a temp guage test when cranking, such as the 82-92 F bodies(camaros and firebirds) they will peg over to HOT during crank, if they dont then it has failed the test and guage is faulty. the temp guage "issue" may be perfectly normal depending on the year make and model most likely this is not related to the no start condition

make sure it has spark, make sure the fuel pump pumps up pressure with key in RUN position(warning lights all on) check the computer codes for stored problems good luck

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I had a problem with my 1999 silverado bacause of a faulty fuel pump it was causing my truck to cut off after running for a minute or two. After getting under the truck and listening to the fuel pump whine I was then able to determine that the pump was in need of replacement. The truck runs great now that I have replaced the pump. I didn't know what to do for my truck to get it running right so I replaced ignition coils, control modules, and even straight wired my ignition so the relay's wouldn't cause my truck not to crank properly.

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a check valve permits fluid flow in one direction, but blocks flow in the opposite direction. works as a vent, as overpressure or backpressure protection, or as an aid to a reprocationg pump or a cycling pump or servo-driven pistol. The pressure valve on a water heater allows excess hot water to escape to an outside location instead of in the house where it is located.

Simplified, it lets gas (air) or liquid go one way, but not the other. The valves of your heart are a good example of this.

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It is behind the cover panel to the left of the E-brake. Remove the cover that the hood release comes through and you will see the Computer nested up behind it toward the fire wall. To remove it you need to loosen the retaining screw from the Engine compartment side of the fire wall and the clip that hold the computer in it place. Make sure you disconnect the neg. battery cable first.

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Yes, the alternator provides electrical energy to keep the battery charged. If the alternator isn't functioning, the battery will discharge and there will be insufficient electrical energy to operate the ignition and other electrical components. Understand that a battery is only an electrical STORAGE device. Electrical energy is produced by the alternator. The function of the battery is to provide electrical energy for NEXT time you want to start the engine. Once the engine is started, the alternator must take care of all electrical requirements of the vehicle as well as for providing enough additional electrical energy to replace electrical energy to the battery that was last used when the engine was started.

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i just changed my a couple months ago i believe its a 36mm socket.

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After reading through a number of links on here it seems I have to admit to a blown headgasket don't I?

you betcha. Although I have seen intake manifold gaskets do this as well. In particular the gm motor- 3.1 liter. Continued driving of this will likely kill the bottom half of the engine. DON'T DRIVE IT!!!

Thanks Paul, it was a gasket. My mechanic is away for another ten days which is just killing me!

The other mechanic I took it to told me there was no harm in driving it but I didnt really believe that so I found a Ford forum and posted there. The reply was similar to yours plus a few other problems that could happen if I continue to drive it.

I hope I haven't ruined it already.

Anyone wanna buy a car?

Jo, While your waiting for your mechanic, drain your oil, leave the plug out overnight. Put the plug back in add 2 quarts of oil to flush some residue out, and drain again. Re-istall the plug again and add 4 quarts of fresh oil. You should not be running it at all. When your guy is back have it towed there. And ahh.. No Thanks on the "new car"!

Well, I live pretty far up north, and I see alot of that (oil looking milky) that can be from water in the oil. I notice this happen alot in winter (well, all the time because where I live there is only 3 months real summer anyway) So it gets cold and freezes. I've seen oil look like coffee when you put the whitner in. Pretty weird, eh?

Milky OIl appearance is generally caused by condensation in an engine. This happens when you drive a short distance. The water from the crank case is not burned off. This is normal. Just get her good and hot and this should cure your worries. I know that this is a scary sight because you automatically think head gasket and $$$$ but if your driving habits in cold weather don't allow for a hot engine then this is your problem.

Especially on the dip stick and filler cap interior.

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It uses Diamond Tech/Diamond Pro from Mitsubishi and I can't find it anywhere. A couple of stores tried to sell me a substitute but be careful if you still have a warranty, you'll probably void it...

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The Mitsubishi Diamante is a front wheel drive car. and some model come awd

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DOT 3 brake fluid

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ALWAYS DISSCONNECT BATTERY TERMINALS (SO AIR BAGS DONT GO OFF)first YOU MUST PULL the entire DASH to get the the heater core housing located behind the stereo...ill see about getting u some diagrams...anywho in the engine compartment at the firewall a little to the passager side where the brakelines coming from the master cycinlder head south (just to the right) are the 2 heater hoses that are attached to the heater core remove these with a a Phillips head screw driver and disconnect hoses. when this is done and the ENTIRE DASH HAS BEEN REMOVED u will see the 3 pecies that consist of ur heating system the one on ur far left is the one ur after it is behind where the stereo was and houses the heater core u only want to remove this because the one to the right houses the evaporting core for ur a/c and it costs about 350-400 to get ur ac recharged (not to mention the gases in side are toxic and more the cold enough to burn u)

after u have removed the heater core install the new one and do everything above in the reverse orderwhen that's done youll need to bleed the cooling system. first add antifrezeze at the rad. until its filled then let the car run intill it gets up to normal temp (196 degrees F) leave the rad. cap off while doing this. after car has reached temp turn off engine refill rad. and reinstall rad cap. then besure the resavoir is full (located beside the passager strut tower)and start engine. when at nomarl oparateing temp...there is a 10mm bleeding screw on the top of the thermostat housing open only until u have fuild/ air coming out and leave open for about 3min or until u have continuous fuild NO AIR and retighten.

well think that's it enjoy and good luck (you'll need a full day to do this)

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Ok i hope i can help, there is a cobalt forum out there on the web with pictures and instructions on how to take the door panel apart. The cobalt is the same as the G5. The interior door panel might be slightly different , but this will give you a good start.

Second is to think of the factory amplifier is set to run factory speakers which are not the same ohm's ( i believe) someone correct me if i am wrong and can add help. I am not sure of all the details, you should call your local audio shop and ask about this. If your using another speaker from G.M. that by all means go ahead and throw it in.

It may be best to look into an aftermarket amp. and run the new more power hungry speakers off of that. Find an amp with low level inputs or you will need a line level adapter.

There are other options including head unit replacement and running the speakers straight from that and by passsing the factory amp.

It can be a difficult task doing all of these thing i have mentioned. but if your not sure what your doing...Call a Pro

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Sounds like the catalatic converter is either pluging up or starting to fail. Either way if this is the problem it will either start having worse performance or just stop runing entirly.

I had this same problem and it was a faulty fuel injector. Check to see if it is wet around any of your fuel injectors.

I have a 1992 q45 I had the same problem i changed my back cats and it still did the same thing coul it be my front ones to

I have a 1995 Mazda 626, I have a similar problem. It dies right at 15 seconds after I hit the gas and remain at 3500 RPM, and I can hardly get up a hill. I have already changed the fuel pump, the injectors were fine, the O2 sensors were fine, changed the air filter, no clogs in the fuel delivery system (yes changed the fuel filter too), changed the plugs and wires, changed the fuel regulator... the only thing left is the catalytic converter is plugged... it's as if my car has asthma, so I'm looking at the Throttle position sensor. Will keep you updated.

I have this cutting out problem and i think Ive managed to diagnose mine to a faulty fuel pump as you can sometimes hear it activate but when you don't the car does not start. but anyway this is what i tried. fortunately my sister has same cars as me, maybe some of these will help you diagnose your problem.

- throttle position sensor

- crankshaft sensor.

- camshaft sensor

- fuel pump fuse/relay

- lambda sensor

- Cat could be broken up and blocked exhaust system causing poor flow.

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I ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION!!!! AFTER 3 TRIPS TO THE GARAGE, IT WAS FOUND THAT THE WIRES BETWEEN THE REVERSE LIGHTS WERE BEING PINCHED BY A KINK IN THE LOOM WHERE IT PASSED THROUGH THE BULKHEAD. THIS WAS A PROBLEM CAUSED IN MANUFACTURE - HOPE THIS MAY HELP OTHERS!! P.S - AS THE REVERSE LIGHT AND INDICATORS WERE ON THE SAME CIRCUIT, THIS WAS CAUSING THE INDICATORS TO FUSE, POST-REVERSING!! get a job

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You can go to your local auto parts store and buy a conversion kit. The directions should be included. Good luck!

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WHAT STATE?

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I just had to do this on my '93 a few weeks ago. The top and bottom plastic steering column covers need to be removed with a Torx screwdriver. The tilt lever, if it exists, must be unscrewed to remove them. Then, remove the tamper-proof Torx screws to remove the entire plastic ignition switch assembly, including key cylinder. The metal cylinder part can now be removed from the ignition switch. If you need to remove the internal keyed part from the cylinder, the key must be in a specific position, and a hammer must be used at a specific spot. Most locksmiths have access to this specific procedure, and/or will do it for $10 or so. Otherwise you can simply replace the cylinder, but that means the key will be different than the doors.

Here is some more detail on replacing the ignition switch in a 93 Dodge Caravan.

Use these instructions at your own risk. This job requires careful work and correct reassembly.

Tools needed: A Torx screw driver T-20 size, also a Tamperproof Torx nut driver or socket, also size T-20. Battery terminal wrenches, a wheel block and a 1/8" flat blade screwdriver.

If the symptom is "engine will not crank", you may have a broken potmetal lug on the ignition lock cylinder. You must disassemble the unit to determine if your lock cylinder has a broken lug. On my Caravan, the yellow and blue wires entering the ignition switch actuate the starter when bridged with a paper clip. Do this at your own risk.

Block wheels so car will not roll.

Disconnect battery ground.

Remove 6 T-20 Torx screws from the bottom plastic housing around the steering column. Carefully slide the housing down and do not tear the sliding plastic that covers the gearshift lever opening.

Turn the ignition to "run". Put gearshift in "Park". Remove 3 three tamperproof torx screws from ignition switch. Wiggle switch out and disconnect plugs.

Take the switch assembly to a workbench. Ensure key is set to run. Find a slot and a 1/8" pin on the ignition switch assembly. Press down behind the pin with a screwdriver and wiggle and draw the key and lock cylinder out of the ignition switch.

Inspect lock cylinder for a broken potmetal lug. Unless the cylinder needs repair, do not pull the key out and do not disassemble the lock cylinder.

Slide the good lock cylinder into the new ignition switch. There is movable lug on the lock cylinder. I think it drops down when you pull the key part way out. I think. Be gentle and patient. The new ignition switch is shipped with it's inner parts set to "run". Slide the lock cylinder into the new switch with the same orientation as when you pulled it out of the old switch.

Put the switch and key in "run" position.

The switch must engage three places on the steering column:

First, the upper ignition switch pin must engage the gearshift blocker. It is a sliding mechanism along the steering column. The upper pin on the ignition switch fits in a gearshift blocker. Look at the grease pattern and slide the plate with a slot. Put it in the midpoint. The upper pin on the ignition switch engages the slot of the plate.

Second, The lower ignition switch has a projecting "key". The tip of the key must drop into a pivot hole.

Thirdly, an alignment pin on the steering column enters a matching hole on the ignition switch.

When you think it is right. Thoroughly test that all the linkages are working correctly. Run the tamper proof screws in finger tight and check the gearshift, ignition switch and steering wheel locks work right. You can visually see the gearshift blocker linkage move. Test the steering wheel latch to latch and unlatch.

Tighten the tamper proof screws. Insert two electrical connectors. Connect ground cable. Test switch. Verify gearshift blocker and steering wheel lock mechanism work as expected.

Hi, I was able to remove the key and cylinder without removing the whole assembly, I used a slightly bent small screwdriver to depress the pin and wiggled it out, I have no tamper proof tools. I can now start and run the van with a needle nose pliers. mine is a 1994