Same location where you pour the motor oil
it should tell u on the driver side sun visor! ..I own a 1999 Isuzu trooper...in order to put it into 4wd! stop vehicle, shift transmission lever to neutral and then shift your transfer lever to 4L and then shift your transmission lever to D. (for normal 2wd your lever should be on HIGH) and to go back from 4wd to 2wd do the the same! stop vehicle put it into neutral and shift your transfer from your 4L position to HIGH.
NEVER DRIVE 4WD ON PAVEMENT.
1. Bleed coolant from system.
2. Disconnect negative terminal of battery.
3. Disconnect the 2 hoses going to the heater core, from the firewall. (Working from the engine bay)
4. Remove stereo head unit (Normally consisted of 4 blatantly visible screws securing the unit to the underside of dash)
5. Move stereo head unit to the side, or disconnect and set aside.
6. Remove ventilation passage ways. (Plastic tubes leading from heater assembly to vents) As well as the much larger blower passage, which can be found in the passenger floorboard closest to the firewall.
7. Remove all plugs/cords attached to heater assembly (The large plastic mass that seperates driver's side floorboards and passenger's side)
8. Remove the 4 nuts securing the heater assembly to the firewall.
9. Remove gauge cluster from it's housing by removing 2 screws in bottom corners.
10. Push gauge cluster aside and push on either side of the ventilation shaft to depress tabs on plastic vents. Remove both vents.
11. Pull heater assembly towards shifter, away from firewall until you have worked assembly far enough for the pipes of the heater core to clear the firewall completely. (Normally about 1-2 inches)
12. Remove entire assembly by maneuvering out the passenger's side floorboard and finally out of the vehicle.
13. Once out of the vehicle, locate heater core pipes, remove the 2 screws holding the heater core in place.
14. Pull the heater core out from left side of heater assembly.
To reassemble follow steps in reverse order.
---Just pulled mine out not 5 hours ago.
---1986 Isuzu Trooper II
A trooper is a cavalry soldier. They are, or have been, known for colourful language. Therefore it is the use of bad language, profanity & sexual misdescription. It comes from military slang.
located below power pack at front of motor hose from bottom of radiator connected to it
good be your battery terminals. make sure they are clean as a whistle
I had this problem with 1999 Trooper in cold weather. Was up late at night and found the headlamps flashing. Removed the fuse for the security system. Problem went away.
the power an winter mode switch gets corrosion an dirty.mostly from spilled drinks coffee cigerette ashes.causes a electrical short within the switch.just replace it with a new one
There isn't really a diagram that is all that good I've found. I just did mine. Remove the wheel. Remove the bolt (I think it's a 10mm) on the caliper and remove. Pull out old pads and replace with new pads. You will need to compress the rear piston to fit the new pads around the rotor. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP. There will be 4 notches around the outside edge of the piston. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers that spanned to 2 of those notches across from one another. Once spanned, rotate the piston. Clockwise and counterclockwise it will turn. Just rotate it so that it is just above flush with the surrounding rubber seal (Not past it). Be sure to clean all of the surfaces that the brake pad travels on "slides". Chiltons or haynes manuels are great for step by step automotive
Remove the positive battery cable first. The starter is on the passenger side of the engine. Might be easier to get to from below. Remove the bolts holding the wiring to it than the bolts that mount the starter in place. Be careful if it has shims that you make sure you put them back in the same way. (These are little thin spacers that go between the mounting surface and the starter). Installation is reverse. Probably would take you no more than 30 minutes to do it all.
Regarding oil consumption, synthetic oil is far superior for lubrication than petroleum based oil BUT it has a smaller molecule, one reason why it is superior, and is therefore more easily consumed by the engine.
These Isuzu engines consume more oil because of their PCV system. Misted oil from the crankcase is routed back into the intake and is burned by the engine. If you install an oil trap or "oil catch" to condense the oil so it doesn't pass as a mist into the intake you can put the condensed oil back into your engine instead of losing it. Ebay sells them for 15-30 dollars. They also have an indicator on them to show how much they have collected.
Yes - I own a 2000 Isuzu Trooper and from my own experience I know that the head gaskets are faulty. It was covered under my warranty 10year/120,000 miles (I am currently at 110,000 miles). Symptoms were a check engine light with rough idle.
^His/Her opinion. My answer is NO. The 3.5L Trooper engines require closer monitoring of engine oil levels than do the previous 3.2L engine. I'd switch to synthetic oil, and make certain the engine doesn't run low of oil. The 3.5L doesn't take kindly to low oil levels. And just because that guy up above had a head gasket problem doesn't mean it's the norm, or that they're faulty. It's not a common occurrence. Toyota had many of the same issues as this 3.5L Isuzu engine, in the sense that some of their engines don't take kindly to low oil levels either. Just don't let the 3.5L Trooper run low on oil, and you shouldn't be surprised to run up 250,000 miles or more.
For those who have had problems with intake manifold gaskets, just replace the gaskets and move on. The engine is going to run erratically as long as intake vacuum is leaking. The gaskets should run about $30-$50 bucks, and takes about 2 hours to replace. The car should run perfectly after that. If not, the gaskets were installed incorrectly. Be wary of paper gaskets... reliable ones should be thick and rubber. A good tip in checking for intake leaks is to leave the car at idle, and spray a little throttle body cleaner around the head of the engine. Any engine idle surges are caused by the intake leaks sucking in the tb cleaner, indicating intake gasket leaks.
I'm not sure if the all Toopers are known for needing cylinder head gaskets replaced often, but my 1998 3.5L Trooper engine had the intake manifold gaskets replaced twice under warrenty and a third time on 12/04/2003 (46349 MI)at a cost of $298.37 for parts and labor (parts were $59.50).
The parts required were QTY 2 of 8-97237-538-0. The same gasket was replaced again at 48639 MI on 4/7/2004 with the notation 'FOUND CRACK IN INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS 01A401 2.0 TC35 P.W. 156685, 46349 MI 12-04-03. Since the defect occurred within one year, there was no cost for that repair.
Athough I was told each time that the gaskets were now being made out of 'more pliable materials', the part number was still the same QTY 2 8-97237-538-0.
The check engine light is on again, but the symptoms aren't nearly as bad yet. Before (in the winter) when the gasket cracked (usually when the weather changed quickly (in Dec/03, the weather went from 50 degrees above to 20 below on the day the gasket went out). I'm assuming that it will not be covered under any type of lemon law since the Trooper now has 55000 miles on it.
I love the Trooper, but they probably should have designed better gaskets for the 3.5L engine.
Fred Schwartz St. Paul, MN
I bought my 1998 Acura SLX 3.5L 4x4 (the Trooper in a fancy disguise!) in 2002 with 46,400 miles on it. It was in really good shape, had my regular mechanic check it out & he said "Buy it!" It's been great, but have reservations on overall performance. It's not that this truck DOESN'T perform well. It does, but like one poster noted in this forum, it doesn't like running low on oil. BUT...it does run low quite often, and I noticed fairly early on that the tailpipe had black soot accumulating on it. Took it to the dealer where I purchased it and asked them to check it out. They replaced some gasket, can't remember exactly what it was now. With the exception of one dealer oil change, Jiffy Lube is where I normally go & I've switched to the synthetic blend for SUVs with more than 75000 miles on the engine (I'm at 78000 now). My brother-in-law has advised against using Pennzoil, said he's researched it & found it to be terrible on engines overall (I believe Jiffy has switched me to Quaker State, but don't quote me yet). If I have any complaints about this vehicle, it's the oil consumption in between oil changes (at least one quart every 1000 miles) and soot is still accumulating on the tailpipe. I've done well with repairs, nothing major, just niceties to give the vehicle longevity, brakes. Buyers beware: this engine eats oil and gas, very poor performance on both those counts, otherwise it's a very reliable vehicle.
I have rebuilt several of these Isuzu Trooper 3.5L engines (6) that have failed from engine oil loss. All seem to show the same problem when dismantled. I agree with everything that is said above. But, let me elaborate from personnal experience that few others have to share with everyone! Yes, it is very true that the Isuzu Trooper 3.5L engine (1998-2002) is sensitive to low oil level in the crank case! However, the root cause that underlies oil consumption on these engines are two-fold in conditions. One, is the use of "mineral based oil" (that is regular automotive oil) instead of the much better synthetic type of engine oils. The other reason is not paying attention to oil change intervals and oil levels on the dipstick. Back to the first reason. As I said, "mineral base oil" is much more a problem than synthetic oil. Why? Mineral base oil oxidizes much more rapidly than synthetic oil in an engine, and when it does it makes something called oxidation products, more commonly known as oil sludge or oil "gums". If synthetic oil is used there is much less tendency to form these products! So, what does the sludge/gum do? The sludge/gum formation causes the oil rings to stick in the oil ring grooves. This is definitely not a normal and wanted condition! The oil rings need to be able to move freely in and out of the groove. Synthetic oil should be used in the Trooper 3.5L, it is a much better oil because it does not form sludge/gums in the oil ring area, hence the oil rings will continue to work as they should "oiling" the cylinder walls much better than if mineral oil is used. On a side note here, Isuzu should have specified to use synthetic oil in these 3.5L engines from the very day the newly manufactured Trooper was first filled with engine oil. That way oil rings would last much, much longer without gumming/sticking. But why do the piston oil rings gum up when other auto engines don't seem to have this problem? The reason is in the construction of the oil rings and the grooves they ride in. The oil ring groove on each piston has too few "holes" (there are only 4 per piston) to permit sufficient oil drainage from the oil ring area. Not only are there too few holes, but the holes are too small (being 1 mm in diameter). Having too few and too small drainage holes causes oil to linger in the oil ring groove area. Hence, the engine oil heats up from lack of oil flow and forms those all so deposits of oxidation, aka GUM on the rings. The rings, once coated with gum formation can then no longer expand to scrape oil from the piston walls as they should; instead they stay in the collapsed position and engine oil is pumped by them up into the piston combustion chamber. The more gum formation in the piston oil ring area the greater the amount of oil consumed. In fact, the gum build up and oil consumption can happen so fast that the oil level drops between oil changes to some dangerously low level. Once, the dangerous oil level has gone unnoticed the oil pump can no longer suck up oil from the crank case and it then fails to deliver oil to the engine. End of story, the engine is destroyed. The second reason I speak of is neglect to change oil at regular intervals as specified by Isuzu. This action is like throwing fuel on a fire. It enhances gum formation because the additives that prevent gum formation (yes, there are some additives in good oil that do this) are consumed at about 3,000 miles! Take if from me, use sythetic oil, check your oil at each gas tank fillup, change your oil faithfully at manufacturer's specified interval, and you can easily drive an Isuzu Trooper 3.5L well beyond 200,000 miles. It' true. I've done it.
This is a pretty easy brake job, once you realize how to deal with the top caliper bolt.
To start, set ebrake, jack and secure vehicle. Remove tire...
The caliper looks like most disc brake calipers at first. You use a metric 14mm socket to remove lower caliper bolt. The top "bolt" is not really a bolt at all. Its basically just a hole on the caliper that slides onto a shaft that is attached to the caliper bracket.
All you do is remove that lower bolt, the insert a screwdriver between the lower side of the caliper and the bracket and pry it up and out. The entire caliper will pivot up and then you push it towards the center of the vehicle and it will slide right off.
You simply remove the pads and use a C-clamp to compress the brake piston back to a fully open position and then insert new pads and reassemble.
*Note: You will want to remove the brake fluid cap before you compress the brake pistons on both sides. Then check fluids and secure the cap again when done. Your initial brake pedal step will go to the floor and then it will pump tight.
Do a test drive and you should be good to go...
Don't bother. Just spend $50 or so on a replacement and be happy.
Wow, what a chore you are about to get envolved with! You must remove almost all of your dash including the center. Next you will need to start removing the vents and other parts of your AC system under your dash. Your heater core is inside the front part of the blower box. First you must disconnect the hoses inside the engine compartment on the passenger side where they enter the fire wall. After you remove the entire black heater unit from under the dash you will be able to see the core just below the flap. You must carefully separate the blower box into its two halves to remove the core. The hardest parts are getting the new core back throught the fire wall (I enlarged one of the holes) and making sure your cables from you ac control are adjusted correctly. Sorry this is not a very technical discription.
Tires out of balance?
Driveshaft out of balance?
There is one Phillips head screw on the top of the asseembly, close to the headlight. Remove the screw, and there will be a ball and socket connection holding the assembly in place. Gently pull the top of the assembly toward the front of the truck. Then use a long screwdriver to gently pry the bottom toward the front of the truck. Keep alternating between the top and bottom, prying it a little at a time. Eventually, the unit will pop out.
Ours was simple... as in 95% of ALL car problems. Usually just hard to determine what 'exactly' is wrong in the first place. New plugs made ours run 1000% better. Wires didn't help, but if you're replacing plugs, especially 'old' plugs, do the wires too. Check and clean the cap and rotor if any. The final problem was to get a new Cat. Converter and weld it on. (Light was coming on intermittently) Dokter Denney
The 99 Trooper is considered a "sealed trans", it does not have an available dip stick to check the fluid levels. To add transmission fluid, locate the transmission main pan from under the vehicle. You will see 2 large bolts, one at the top corner of the pan, one at the bottom. The top is the fill plug, the bottom is the drain. To begin filling, make sure to chock the vehicle wheels on a level surface, leave the vehicle running in neutral with the handbrake ON. Remove the fill bolt and take notice if fluid dribbles out. If fluid gently dribbles out the transmission is filled to the proper level, if not fluid comes out then begin adding using a fluid pump.
Make sure you check/fill with the vehicle running in neutral. Fluid must be circulating to get an accurate reading.
If the transmission is a standard transmission, there should be a plug on the outside of it that would need to be removed and usually you would put your finger in to see where the fluid was and fill accordingly.
I would assume it is made by Isuzu. Look on the door jamb at the placard. There will be listed the manufacture.
It's actually a timing belt and the recommended interval for replacement is every 50,000 miles.
NateAnswerYou do not need to unbolt the exhaust. I did this repair a couple of months ago on 1996 Trooper S.
0. Call around and check prices; they varied considerably in my area. You should be able to find a remanufactured starter w/ warranty <$150.00.
1. Jack up front of car and safely support on stands; you'll need the elbow room.
2. Disconnect negative wire from battery.
3. Remove heat shield beneath starter (2 or 3 small bolts)(Starter is on Driver's side, wire terminals are on the front)
4. Disconnect wire terminals at front of starter.
5. Remove 2 bolts holding starter to engine block. They are hard to see; you'll need a decent light. They are in a line, perpendicular to the length of the vehicle at the back of the starter. You'll need an extention or two for your socket, and a universal swivel is helpful.
6. Rotate starter 180 degrees so that wire terminals face rear of vehicle. There is just enough room to get it out. You may need to loosen one bracket on the heatshield on the exhaust pipe where you are removing the starter and rotate it out of the way.
7. Reverse the process to install; goes in easier than it comes out.
8. Took me about 1.5 hours, but I didn't have directions.
There is an easier way. It is very tight to get it out that way. if you want to have the job done in half that time all you have to do is unbolt the drivers side of the front end. there are 2 bolts that go strait up. once removed it will drop the front end about 1-2 inches and the starter will come right out.
Hi, there. This is exactly what happened to my '99 Trooper. Believe it or not, both the low beam filaments went out at the same time. I replaced on bulb and, bingo, low beams worked. Then, I replaced the other bulb and got the same result. Good luck. Hope this works for you.
-------- Hello, this is Lee adding a bit more to the answer.
Burned out bulbs suggest "high vehicle voltage levels".. High voltage levels are caused by a battery developing high internal resistance or a high resistance in the battery ground cable.
Automobiles typically use an alternator that charges the battery at a constant current. If the battery or the wire connecting the battery's negative terminal to the engine block develops a high resistance, then the voltage of the entire vehicle climbs a half a volt or maybe even a whole volt above normal. It turns out high intensity headlight bulbs quickly start blowing out when they are fed a little too much voltage.
So here is a checklist.
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