Isuzu Trooper

The Isuzu Trooper was a midsize SUV manufactured from 1981 to 2005. The Trooper had three generations: 1981-1991, 1992-1997 and 1998-2005. The first generation was basic and underpowered on- and off-road vehicle, while the succeeding generations were more refined and were available in two or four-wheel drive.

1,928 Questions
Isuzu Trooper

Where do you pour the transmission fluid in an Isuzu trooper?

Same location where you pour the motor oil

Isuzu Trooper
Ford Ranger XLT

How do you put Isuzu Trooper into 4 Wheel drive?

it should tell u on the driver side sun visor! ..I own a 1999 Isuzu order to put it into 4wd! stop vehicle, shift transmission lever to neutral and then shift your transfer lever to 4L and then shift your transmission lever to D. (for normal 2wd your lever should be on HIGH) and to go back from 4wd to 2wd do the the same! stop vehicle put it into neutral and shift your transfer from your 4L position to HIGH.


Oil and Oil Filters
Dodge Caravan
Isuzu Trooper

What brand of synthetic oil is best - Amsoil or Mobil?

Amsoil and Mobil are both really good brands. It also depends on what you use the car for. If you like to drive fast? Rev-hard? Drag race? drive in intense heat? Want your engine to last longer? don't want to change your oil as often? then Amsoil is the way to go. sure it is a lot more expensive than Mobil. But the quality of oil is much, much better. I recommend Mobil for everyday driving. but if you're performance minded like me... Amsoil has a large variety of different oils and viscountcies.
The writer is correct on all ideas except I say why not stick with the very best for all conditions, what will happen if your car suddenly loses coolant or over heats for various reasons......would you not want the very best protection? I have a friend who ran 500 miles on no water in his S-10 pick-up with Amsoil, no oil will protect that much! Check the web link under motor oils and select 10W-30 to find the oil comparison testing between Amsoil and Mobil 1.

>>>>Both of the above answers appear to be from AMSOIL representatives. They are biased, and incorrect.

A vast majority of drivers will notice no difference between running a fully synthetic oil over a semi synthetic. Regular oil changes are necessary on both, though you can go slightly longer in between oil changes with the synthetic oil.

Remember, your engine produces roughly the same amount of oil contaminants, regardless of what oil you use. These contaminants include unburnt fuel from cold start-up, the results of incomplete, or poor combustion, and normal carbon buildup. Your oil filter clogs at the same rate, regardless, so regular oil changes are necessary on both.

It is relevant to mention that the more expensive oil filters (such as an amsoil filter) ARE capable of filtering smaller particulate contamination, but due to this design, can actually plug up FASTER than your average manufacturer-specified oil filter. For that I reason, I always recommend to my customers and friends that they use a reputable STANDARD oil filter in all cases.

FINALLY, I would like to address the standard "My Truck Went 500 Miles Without Coolant" statement. Let me first inform you that I am a ASE Master Auto Tech with more than a decade of experience. Secondly, I am an Automotive Engineer with more than 5 years of relevant industry experience.
If you run ANY engine without coolant to the point that it overheats, you are doing PERMANENT damage NO MATTER WHAT OIL YOU RUN.
See, cars have these things called head gaskets - Overheating virtually ALL modern vehicles for any extended period of time (ie more than, say, a MINUTE) WILL result in a bad head gasket.
Furthermore, excessive heat causes a plethora of other severe problems that NO OIL WILL PREVENT, such as PERMANENTLY damaged pistons, cylinders, and rings.

Neither AMSOIL, nor ANY OTHER OIL will protect your engine if you don't take care of it.
There is no substitute for regular oil changes.

Buy what's cheap, if you *must* run a synthetic then buy what is economical for you.

I am not saying that AMSOIL isn't better in CERTAIN, SPECIAL situations - Like racing. I realize there are a lot of people that swear by it in the racing industry - But remember something. Racing engines are a *completely* different breed of engines - They make massive amounts of power, and generate a LOT of heat that is concentrated much differently than a passenger car engine. They also cna run at much higher RPM's, and experience completely different pressure differentials in the crankcase. These are all things that amsoil *might* be better for, but quite honestly, if that *were* the case, it seems that AMSOIL would be citing data from tests, instead of spreading stories like "My friends cousins brother went 500 miles with no coolant because he had AMSOIL".

Yeah. That guy went 500 miles. And then never went again, because that engine was 100% JUNK if that story is true. NO water-cooled internal combustion engine will go even 50 miles without coolant - You can take my word for it. It's true.

>>Those "tests" are a joke - They were performed by Amsoil, and not an unbiased third party. Of COURSE they are going to "show" that their oil is the "best" - Just because you followed ASTM test standards doesn't mean you didn't "design" the test procedure to make sure your oil came out on top.
Furthermore, REGARDLESS of whether amsoil outperforms mobil 1 or not, both oils would far exceed manufacturer specifications for standard motor oil - If changed regularly, engines WILL run on standard motor oil INDEFINITELY - So what's the point to spending all the extra $$$ on Amsoil/Mobil for the standard consumer? Oh wait, there IS NO point to it. It's your standard marketing scam, sell the customer a product that they DO NOT NEED, with significantly increased profit margin.

Those tests are not a joke. They were performed by world renown SouthWest Research Institute in San Antonio, using standard ASTM testing that anyone can duplicate, yet no one has disputed. The extra money you spend for AMSOIL can buy you up to 50,000 mile/1 year oil change intervals, where Mobil 1 does not. This is why the Texas State Police, Texas Parks and Wildlife, and other huge fleets save time and money with AMSOIL.
Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Isuzu Trooper

How do you replace a heater core in a 1986 Isuzu Trooper?

1. Bleed coolant from system.

2. Disconnect negative terminal of battery.

3. Disconnect the 2 hoses going to the heater core, from the firewall. (Working from the engine bay)

4. Remove stereo head unit (Normally consisted of 4 blatantly visible screws securing the unit to the underside of dash)

5. Move stereo head unit to the side, or disconnect and set aside.

6. Remove ventilation passage ways. (Plastic tubes leading from heater assembly to vents) As well as the much larger blower passage, which can be found in the passenger floorboard closest to the firewall.

7. Remove all plugs/cords attached to heater assembly (The large plastic mass that seperates driver's side floorboards and passenger's side)

8. Remove the 4 nuts securing the heater assembly to the firewall.

9. Remove gauge cluster from it's housing by removing 2 screws in bottom corners.

10. Push gauge cluster aside and push on either side of the ventilation shaft to depress tabs on plastic vents. Remove both vents.

11. Pull heater assembly towards shifter, away from firewall until you have worked assembly far enough for the pipes of the heater core to clear the firewall completely. (Normally about 1-2 inches)

12. Remove entire assembly by maneuvering out the passenger's side floorboard and finally out of the vehicle.

13. Once out of the vehicle, locate heater core pipes, remove the 2 screws holding the heater core in place.

14. Pull the heater core out from left side of heater assembly.

To reassemble follow steps in reverse order.

---Just pulled mine out not 5 hours ago.

---1986 Isuzu Trooper II

Isuzu Trooper
Farm Animals
Idioms, Cliches, and Slang
Word and Phrase Origins

Where does the phrase 'swear like a trooper' come from?

A trooper is a cavalry soldier. They are, or have been, known for colourful language. Therefore it is the use of bad language, profanity & sexual misdescription. It comes from military slang.

Isuzu Trooper
Toyota Camry

Where is the thermostat located on a 1995 Isuzu Trooper?

located below power pack at front of motor hose from bottom of radiator connected to it

Car Electronics and Lights
Car Starting Problems
Isuzu Trooper

Isuzu trooper 3.1 diesel drains the battery overnight?

good be your battery terminals. make sure they are clean as a whistle

I had this problem with 1999 Trooper in cold weather. Was up late at night and found the headlamps flashing. Removed the fuse for the security system. Problem went away.

Steering and Suspension
Serpentine Belts
Power Steering
Isuzu Trooper

How do you remove the power steering to replace the tension for the belt?

he is right the question makes no sensethe question does not make complete sense. Please rephrase the question and try to be more specific ("....replace the tension for the belt?" WHICH BELT?)
Oldsmobile Calais
Isuzu Trooper
Toyota Sequoia
Toyota SR5

Why did the Power Drive dash indicator on your 2000 Isuzu Trooper suddenly light up and will not go off is this anything to worry about?

the power an winter mode switch gets corrosion an dirty.mostly from spilled drinks coffee cigerette ashes.causes a electrical short within the switch.just replace it with a new one

Brake Pads and Rotors
Chevy Silverado
Isuzu Trooper

Where can you find a diagram to help you replace the rear disc brake pads on a 1988 Isuzu Trooper II?

There isn't really a diagram that is all that good I've found. I just did mine. Remove the wheel. Remove the bolt (I think it's a 10mm) on the caliper and remove. Pull out old pads and replace with new pads. You will need to compress the rear piston to fit the new pads around the rotor. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP. There will be 4 notches around the outside edge of the piston. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers that spanned to 2 of those notches across from one another. Once spanned, rotate the piston. Clockwise and counterclockwise it will turn. Just rotate it so that it is just above flush with the surrounding rubber seal (Not past it). Be sure to clean all of the surfaces that the brake pad travels on "slides". Chiltons or haynes manuels are great for step by step automotive

Fuel and Fuel Intake
Fuel Pumps
Chevy S-10
Isuzu Trooper

How do you change a fuel pump on a 1994 Isuzu Trooper?

Isuzu Rodeo
Isuzu Trooper
Toyota Sequoia

What are the instructions for replacing a starter in a 1992 Isuzu Trooper?

Remove the positive battery cable first. The starter is on the passenger side of the engine. Might be easier to get to from below. Remove the bolts holding the wiring to it than the bolts that mount the starter in place. Be careful if it has shims that you make sure you put them back in the same way. (These are little thin spacers that go between the mounting surface and the starter). Installation is reverse. Probably would take you no more than 30 minutes to do it all.

Chevy Silverado
Isuzu Trooper
Chevy 350

How do you change a rear main seal on a 1995 Isuzu Trooper?

you pull the engine and tranny out. pull them apart. remove the clutch on a manual or the torque converter on an automatic. then remove and replace the rear main. it's located on the shaft that went into the tranny.
Isuzu Trooper

Is it true that Isuzu Troopers are known for needing cylinder heads and head gaskets replaced frequently?

Regarding oil consumption, synthetic oil is far superior for lubrication than petroleum based oil BUT it has a smaller molecule, one reason why it is superior, and is therefore more easily consumed by the engine.

These Isuzu engines consume more oil because of their PCV system. Misted oil from the crankcase is routed back into the intake and is burned by the engine. If you install an oil trap or "oil catch" to condense the oil so it doesn't pass as a mist into the intake you can put the condensed oil back into your engine instead of losing it. Ebay sells them for 15-30 dollars. They also have an indicator on them to show how much they have collected.

Yes - I own a 2000 Isuzu Trooper and from my own experience I know that the head gaskets are faulty. It was covered under my warranty 10year/120,000 miles (I am currently at 110,000 miles). Symptoms were a check engine light with rough idle.

^His/Her opinion. My answer is NO. The 3.5L Trooper engines require closer monitoring of engine oil levels than do the previous 3.2L engine. I'd switch to synthetic oil, and make certain the engine doesn't run low of oil. The 3.5L doesn't take kindly to low oil levels. And just because that guy up above had a head gasket problem doesn't mean it's the norm, or that they're faulty. It's not a common occurrence. Toyota had many of the same issues as this 3.5L Isuzu engine, in the sense that some of their engines don't take kindly to low oil levels either. Just don't let the 3.5L Trooper run low on oil, and you shouldn't be surprised to run up 250,000 miles or more.

For those who have had problems with intake manifold gaskets, just replace the gaskets and move on. The engine is going to run erratically as long as intake vacuum is leaking. The gaskets should run about $30-$50 bucks, and takes about 2 hours to replace. The car should run perfectly after that. If not, the gaskets were installed incorrectly. Be wary of paper gaskets... reliable ones should be thick and rubber. A good tip in checking for intake leaks is to leave the car at idle, and spray a little throttle body cleaner around the head of the engine. Any engine idle surges are caused by the intake leaks sucking in the tb cleaner, indicating intake gasket leaks.

I'm not sure if the all Toopers are known for needing cylinder head gaskets replaced often, but my 1998 3.5L Trooper engine had the intake manifold gaskets replaced twice under warrenty and a third time on 12/04/2003 (46349 MI)at a cost of $298.37 for parts and labor (parts were $59.50).

The parts required were QTY 2 of 8-97237-538-0. The same gasket was replaced again at 48639 MI on 4/7/2004 with the notation 'FOUND CRACK IN INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS 01A401 2.0 TC35 P.W. 156685, 46349 MI 12-04-03. Since the defect occurred within one year, there was no cost for that repair.

Athough I was told each time that the gaskets were now being made out of 'more pliable materials', the part number was still the same QTY 2 8-97237-538-0.

The check engine light is on again, but the symptoms aren't nearly as bad yet. Before (in the winter) when the gasket cracked (usually when the weather changed quickly (in Dec/03, the weather went from 50 degrees above to 20 below on the day the gasket went out). I'm assuming that it will not be covered under any type of lemon law since the Trooper now has 55000 miles on it.

I love the Trooper, but they probably should have designed better gaskets for the 3.5L engine.

Fred Schwartz St. Paul, MN

I bought my 1998 Acura SLX 3.5L 4x4 (the Trooper in a fancy disguise!) in 2002 with 46,400 miles on it. It was in really good shape, had my regular mechanic check it out & he said "Buy it!" It's been great, but have reservations on overall performance. It's not that this truck DOESN'T perform well. It does, but like one poster noted in this forum, it doesn't like running low on oil. does run low quite often, and I noticed fairly early on that the tailpipe had black soot accumulating on it. Took it to the dealer where I purchased it and asked them to check it out. They replaced some gasket, can't remember exactly what it was now. With the exception of one dealer oil change, Jiffy Lube is where I normally go & I've switched to the synthetic blend for SUVs with more than 75000 miles on the engine (I'm at 78000 now). My brother-in-law has advised against using Pennzoil, said he's researched it & found it to be terrible on engines overall (I believe Jiffy has switched me to Quaker State, but don't quote me yet). If I have any complaints about this vehicle, it's the oil consumption in between oil changes (at least one quart every 1000 miles) and soot is still accumulating on the tailpipe. I've done well with repairs, nothing major, just niceties to give the vehicle longevity, brakes. Buyers beware: this engine eats oil and gas, very poor performance on both those counts, otherwise it's a very reliable vehicle.

I have rebuilt several of these Isuzu Trooper 3.5L engines (6) that have failed from engine oil loss. All seem to show the same problem when dismantled. I agree with everything that is said above. But, let me elaborate from personnal experience that few others have to share with everyone! Yes, it is very true that the Isuzu Trooper 3.5L engine (1998-2002) is sensitive to low oil level in the crank case! However, the root cause that underlies oil consumption on these engines are two-fold in conditions. One, is the use of "mineral based oil" (that is regular automotive oil) instead of the much better synthetic type of engine oils. The other reason is not paying attention to oil change intervals and oil levels on the dipstick. Back to the first reason. As I said, "mineral base oil" is much more a problem than synthetic oil. Why? Mineral base oil oxidizes much more rapidly than synthetic oil in an engine, and when it does it makes something called oxidation products, more commonly known as oil sludge or oil "gums". If synthetic oil is used there is much less tendency to form these products! So, what does the sludge/gum do? The sludge/gum formation causes the oil rings to stick in the oil ring grooves. This is definitely not a normal and wanted condition! The oil rings need to be able to move freely in and out of the groove. Synthetic oil should be used in the Trooper 3.5L, it is a much better oil because it does not form sludge/gums in the oil ring area, hence the oil rings will continue to work as they should "oiling" the cylinder walls much better than if mineral oil is used. On a side note here, Isuzu should have specified to use synthetic oil in these 3.5L engines from the very day the newly manufactured Trooper was first filled with engine oil. That way oil rings would last much, much longer without gumming/sticking. But why do the piston oil rings gum up when other auto engines don't seem to have this problem? The reason is in the construction of the oil rings and the grooves they ride in. The oil ring groove on each piston has too few "holes" (there are only 4 per piston) to permit sufficient oil drainage from the oil ring area. Not only are there too few holes, but the holes are too small (being 1 mm in diameter). Having too few and too small drainage holes causes oil to linger in the oil ring groove area. Hence, the engine oil heats up from lack of oil flow and forms those all so deposits of oxidation, aka GUM on the rings. The rings, once coated with gum formation can then no longer expand to scrape oil from the piston walls as they should; instead they stay in the collapsed position and engine oil is pumped by them up into the piston combustion chamber. The more gum formation in the piston oil ring area the greater the amount of oil consumed. In fact, the gum build up and oil consumption can happen so fast that the oil level drops between oil changes to some dangerously low level. Once, the dangerous oil level has gone unnoticed the oil pump can no longer suck up oil from the crank case and it then fails to deliver oil to the engine. End of story, the engine is destroyed. The second reason I speak of is neglect to change oil at regular intervals as specified by Isuzu. This action is like throwing fuel on a fire. It enhances gum formation because the additives that prevent gum formation (yes, there are some additives in good oil that do this) are consumed at about 3,000 miles! Take if from me, use sythetic oil, check your oil at each gas tank fillup, change your oil faithfully at manufacturer's specified interval, and you can easily drive an Isuzu Trooper 3.5L well beyond 200,000 miles. It' true. I've done it.

Isuzu Trooper
Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer
Ford Expedition XLT

How do you install disc brakes on the front of a 1987 Isuzu Trooper?

This is a pretty easy brake job, once you realize how to deal with the top caliper bolt.

To start, set ebrake, jack and secure vehicle. Remove tire...

The caliper looks like most disc brake calipers at first. You use a metric 14mm socket to remove lower caliper bolt. The top "bolt" is not really a bolt at all. Its basically just a hole on the caliper that slides onto a shaft that is attached to the caliper bracket.

All you do is remove that lower bolt, the insert a screwdriver between the lower side of the caliper and the bracket and pry it up and out. The entire caliper will pivot up and then you push it towards the center of the vehicle and it will slide right off.

You simply remove the pads and use a C-clamp to compress the brake piston back to a fully open position and then insert new pads and reassemble.

*Note: You will want to remove the brake fluid cap before you compress the brake pistons on both sides. Then check fluids and secure the cap again when done. Your initial brake pedal step will go to the floor and then it will pump tight.

Do a test drive and you should be good to go...

Car Starting Problems
Starters and Ignition Systems
Isuzu Trooper
Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer

1990 Isuzu Trooper ignition damage by would-be thief Now key won't work How do you hot wire andor replace ignition?

Don't bother. Just spend $50 or so on a replacement and be happy.

Heater Cores and Blower Fans
Isuzu Trooper

How do you replace a heater core on a 94 Isuzu Trooper?

Wow, what a chore you are about to get envolved with! You must remove almost all of your dash including the center. Next you will need to start removing the vents and other parts of your AC system under your dash. Your heater core is inside the front part of the blower box. First you must disconnect the hoses inside the engine compartment on the passenger side where they enter the fire wall. After you remove the entire black heater unit from under the dash you will be able to see the core just below the flap. You must carefully separate the blower box into its two halves to remove the core. The hardest parts are getting the new core back throught the fire wall (I enlarged one of the holes) and making sure your cables from you ac control are adjusted correctly. Sorry this is not a very technical discription.

Asian Cars
Isuzu Trooper
Teen Dating

1999 Isuzu Trooper Why does it have too much vibration Feel like unable to stand on your legs after driving for 30 mins?

Tires out of balance?
Driveshaft out of balance?

Headlights Tail and Brake Lights
Isuzu Trooper
Nissan Xterra

How do you remove or replace the side front light bulb on a Isuzu Trooper?

There is one Phillips head screw on the top of the asseembly, close to the headlight. Remove the screw, and there will be a ball and socket connection holding the assembly in place. Gently pull the top of the assembly toward the front of the truck. Then use a long screwdriver to gently pry the bottom toward the front of the truck. Keep alternating between the top and bottom, prying it a little at a time. Eventually, the unit will pop out.

Isuzu Trooper
Nissan Pathfinder
1995-2005 Chevy Cavaliers

What would make a 1988 trooper ii idle rough?

Ours was simple... as in 95% of ALL car problems. Usually just hard to determine what 'exactly' is wrong in the first place. New plugs made ours run 1000% better. Wires didn't help, but if you're replacing plugs, especially 'old' plugs, do the wires too. Check and clean the cap and rotor if any. The final problem was to get a new Cat. Converter and weld it on. (Light was coming on intermittently) Dokter Denney

Transmission Fluid
Isuzu Trooper

How can you add transmission fluid to 1999 Isuzu Trooper?

The 99 Trooper is considered a "sealed trans", it does not have an available dip stick to check the fluid levels. To add transmission fluid, locate the transmission main pan from under the vehicle. You will see 2 large bolts, one at the top corner of the pan, one at the bottom. The top is the fill plug, the bottom is the drain. To begin filling, make sure to chock the vehicle wheels on a level surface, leave the vehicle running in neutral with the handbrake ON. Remove the fill bolt and take notice if fluid dribbles out. If fluid gently dribbles out the transmission is filled to the proper level, if not fluid comes out then begin adding using a fluid pump.

Make sure you check/fill with the vehicle running in neutral. Fluid must be circulating to get an accurate reading.

If the transmission is a standard transmission, there should be a plug on the outside of it that would need to be removed and usually you would put your finger in to see where the fluid was and fill accordingly.

Cars & Vehicles
Isuzu Trooper

Who makes Isuzu SUV?

I would assume it is made by Isuzu. Look on the door jamb at the placard. There will be listed the manufacture.

Timing and Firing Orders
Isuzu Trooper
Timing Belts and Chains
Ford Windstar SEL

Should the timing chain on a 1995 Isuzu Trooper be replaced after 100 thousand miles?

It's actually a timing belt and the recommended interval for replacement is every 50,000 miles.

Starters and Ignition Systems
Isuzu Trooper
Chevy Colorado

How do you change the starter on a 1997 izuzu trooper?

AnswerI have a 1996 limited trooper and it doesn't look like you can change it without removing the exhaust manifold....I had it unbolted and couldn't find a path to remove it.....someone please help if you can answer....Thanks Answer Remove 4 bolts on front crossmember,remove it and starter is a r/r job redisuzutoo.You do have to take off the exhaust at the exhaust manifold. You also have to unbolt the Y pipe so that it is able to move slightly towards the back of the wheel well. Anyways after that the starter slides right out. My problem is after I pulled my starter out, a hose fell off and it runs to the drivers side door. Into a canister. I don't think its the fuel pump, but I don't know what it is. And I can't find out where it goes under the car. Its a hose that when you are looking at the starter from the bottom it sits under the starter, next to the bundle of wires that is under the starter. If someone could look at their trooper and see where this hose goes. It attatches to a metal tube and I can't see where it ends above the oil pan nor can I feel. Or if someone could direct me to a diagram for this side of the car that would be appreciated.


AnswerYou do not need to unbolt the exhaust. I did this repair a couple of months ago on 1996 Trooper S.

0. Call around and check prices; they varied considerably in my area. You should be able to find a remanufactured starter w/ warranty <$150.00.

1. Jack up front of car and safely support on stands; you'll need the elbow room.

2. Disconnect negative wire from battery.

3. Remove heat shield beneath starter (2 or 3 small bolts)(Starter is on Driver's side, wire terminals are on the front)

4. Disconnect wire terminals at front of starter.

5. Remove 2 bolts holding starter to engine block. They are hard to see; you'll need a decent light. They are in a line, perpendicular to the length of the vehicle at the back of the starter. You'll need an extention or two for your socket, and a universal swivel is helpful.

6. Rotate starter 180 degrees so that wire terminals face rear of vehicle. There is just enough room to get it out. You may need to loosen one bracket on the heatshield on the exhaust pipe where you are removing the starter and rotate it out of the way.

7. Reverse the process to install; goes in easier than it comes out.

8. Took me about 1.5 hours, but I didn't have directions.


There is an easier way. It is very tight to get it out that way. if you want to have the job done in half that time all you have to do is unbolt the drivers side of the front end. there are 2 bolts that go strait up. once removed it will drop the front end about 1-2 inches and the starter will come right out.

Headlights Tail and Brake Lights
Isuzu Trooper
1995-2005 Chevy Cavaliers
VW Super Beetle

What might be the problem if a 1997 Isuzu Trooper's low beams are out but the high beams still work?


Hi, there. This is exactly what happened to my '99 Trooper. Believe it or not, both the low beam filaments went out at the same time. I replaced on bulb and, bingo, low beams worked. Then, I replaced the other bulb and got the same result. Good luck. Hope this works for you.

-------- Hello, this is Lee adding a bit more to the answer.

Burned out bulbs suggest "high vehicle voltage levels".. High voltage levels are caused by a battery developing high internal resistance or a high resistance in the battery ground cable.

Automobiles typically use an alternator that charges the battery at a constant current. If the battery or the wire connecting the battery's negative terminal to the engine block develops a high resistance, then the voltage of the entire vehicle climbs a half a volt or maybe even a whole volt above normal. It turns out high intensity headlight bulbs quickly start blowing out when they are fed a little too much voltage.

So here is a checklist.

  1. Check the voltage drop for the battery to engine block ground connection. Check the battery connections. Remake as indicated.
  2. Does the battery need water? Not a very common problem these days, but small battery vehicles like motorcycles will develop a cell with low water.
  3. Is the vehicle battery at it's age limit? Aging car batteries sometimes develop higher internal resistance.

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