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That is where the heater core and AC box is located. Perhaps the drain is plugged and water in getting into the air intake under the hood somehow. The drain is in the firewall at the bottom or underneath. After the AC has been running, there should be condensation dripping from it if it is open.

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My 97 Voyager has done the same thing. It was control panel programing, the following instructions is how to program your control panel: 1) SET BLOWER ON HIGH 2) SET MODE TO PANEL 3) SET TEMP TO COLD 4) PRESS WASH AND REAR WIPER TOGATHER AND HOLD FOR 5 SEC. IT WILL GO THROUGH A SERIES OF FLASHING, WHEN DONE THE REAR WIPER SHOULD BE THE ONLY ONE FLASHING PRESS REAR WIPER TO EXIT. DO THIS WITH VAN RUNNING. This worked for my 1997 Voyager. I hope it works for yours.

I followed instructions and it worked( 98 VOYAGER ) BUT I MIGHT ADD THIS; you must wait 30-60 seconds for all the lights except the rear wiper light to go out before you hit the rear wiper button.

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That's the "Daytime Running Lights". Typically, the car runs the headlights at low power anytime you've shifted out of park. There are people who love them, and others who hate them.

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A Grand Caravan should have a 6 cylinder.

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chrysler/dodge scan tool

Diagnostic Readout Box version two

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Ford says to flush the transmission through completely with Mercon V fluid. In other words, replace every drop of Mercon III fluid tha it came with, for Mercon V. You cannot get away with just dropping the pan and doing a service. That only removes about 6 quarts of fluid. That transmission holds about 15 quarts, so you have to use a flush machine to run it through. After you exchange all the fuid out for Mercon V, then it will take about 500 miles for the shudder to improve. And then Ford charges you $350 for a fluid change that doesn't help and just might destroy the tranny in a car that age. Ford has a bulletin on this, your torque converter is going out and it will only get worse. Just add some GM 'Limited Slip Additive' to your tranny, will work wonders. There are some transmission specific additives out there too, just haven't tried them myself. -motoman22

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Failing battery. Loose terminal connection at the battery. Loose connection at the other ends of the battery cables. Faulty alternator. Blown engine compartment fuses. Faulty or damaged wiring.

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If equipped it is under the dash on the passenger side, look for a sliding access panel under the glove box.

Or a long skinny pop-off panel (about 1" by 6") under the glove box and close to the center console.

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The part at an auto parts store ranges about $120, but to have it done at a shop you could probably tack on another $100 or so for labor..

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as hot as the exhaust manifold there are exhaust gases passing through it

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The color code is usually located on the same sticker that contains information about your tire pressure and other info. This sticker is usually located where the latch is on the front driver-side door or even on the B pillar. The color code is kind of hard to decipher. My car is Dk.Green, but my color code is BJ2. Go Figure...

paint codes on Chrysler and dodge is located either on a sticker in the driver's door jam or on a metal plate under the hood. It is a 3 diget code(pw7,ph2, etc.) You will need a paint chip book to verify color. can be found where car paint is sold

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I don't know much about cars but I used to work as a cashier in an oil change shop. If we were out of a certain oil filter, we ran to another location to get one. I don't remember anyone ever using a different one than recommended. It would be much safer to go to a store and get the right one for your vehicle. They usually have a book that tells you which one to get and the filter is a lot cheaper than a new car. Like I said, I'm no expert, I just think it would be better to be safe than sorry.

I'm not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV, but common sense says "Is it worth saving $4.00 to risk your engine? Do manufacturers make 60 zillion oil filters because it doesn't matter? The only exception I make to using an oil filter that isn't listed for it is a 3100 GM motor that calls for a FRAM ph3387a. If room is available, I use a PH3980 (if I remember correctly, I need to be in front of the shelf!) Anyways, it is the same except it holds more oil. There are different specs on pressure, filtration, blah, blah, blah. The point is : YES It Matters! And don't buy a cheap cheeseball one! I use FRAM, it isn't the supreme oil filter, but it handles 3,000-mile oil changes very well.

I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse I bought used, and when I serviced it for an oil change, I discovered that the recommended oil filter would not fit because of frame-engine clearance problems. After calling many service reps and parts stores, I ended up going to Wal-Mart and COMPARING filters by matching identical gasket sizes and choosing the filter size I knew would fit in the space available. It works well for me, but do whatever you can to use the original or recommended parts. This was a problem I could solve no other way. -Ted

YES! 3 quick things on an oil filter and engines oil pressure. Vehicles have different oil pressures, which will require different oil filters that hold certain pressures. Secondly the thread on the filter and your vehicle's filter spindel need to be a perfect match. And finally the gasket on the oil filter need to be the size your vehicle requires to secure filter on spindel without any leaks. IMPORTANT: be sure to remove the oil gasket from the old filter because when you install the filter you wanna oil the gasket to prevent it from sticking and melting a little onto the mounting plate. 2 gaskets is not a pretty picture once you start your vehicle. The oil will gush out like there is no tomorrow.

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Under the hood by the battery.

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It is time for some kind of scheduled maintenance. this could mean an oil change or timing belt replacement. Read your owners manual for the scheduled service intervals and compare it to your miles. A qualified mechanic can perform the work and reset the light, parts stores usually use the cheap code scanners so they may not be able to reset this light but you could try.

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locate the "tensioner" pulley, on the schematic that is under your hood, on top of the radiator. Then place a socket on the bolt head in the middle of that pulley, and with a breaker bar, pull the entire pulley towards the front of the van, releasing the tension, and letting the belt slip off easily. Repeat this procedure once you have the new belt routed around most of the pulleys properly and slip it over the tensioner pulley last. Double check belt alignment on all pulleys, make sure it is well tensioned, then start your van and let it idle about 5 to 10 seconds, shut it off, and recheck the belt alignment and tension. If all looks well, then close the hood and call it a job well done.

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There could be on at each wheel bearing.

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you might check your IAC valve (idle air control valve)

check your TPS

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I couldn't find the PL20049, but I could find the L20049. The PL typically designates a Purolator PureOne oil filter. The L20049 is for small block chevy's. You need one of the following: 2.4L 4 cylinder: PH3506

3.4L 6 cylinder: PH3387A These are Fram numbers but you can cross these numbers into your favorite brand

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28" Drivers side and 18" Passenger side. But always lookup the correct part numbers in the application databases or books. See related link.

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That depends on what trans it has. If the shifter is electronic then yes. If the shifter is not electronic then it is a three speed.

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The fuel capacity is 16 gallons.

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FUSE There is a blue relay (a larger cube than a fuse) in the fudebox near the battery. I replaced it from a salvaged car and it worked again.

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this cruthfeild website is only an ad page --> go to www.cruthfeild.com you can get install info and buy new speakers

If you don't know how to remove the inside door panel, this link is very helpful:

http://autorepair.about.com/od/otherodddiyjobs/l/aa092504a.htm.

In addition to the advice at the above site, I found another trick to removing the trim around the inside door handle. The above article refers to putting a screwdriver UNDER the door handle and pushing down ... to release a "secret latch". That's the first step. The second step (which is not in the article) is to insert the scredriver ABOVE the door handle ... vertically above the spot in the above article. Then gently press the screwdriver handle down. With the screwdriver acting as a lever, the tip of the screwdriver will push UP on the top part of the trim. That will lift the trim up off a small pin on the handle mechanism. With both the bottom and top of the trim piece now "unlatched", slide the trim toward the back of the car, while you open the inside door handle (as mentioned in the article). The trim will come right off. Be sure to slide the trim toward the back of the car, as you move the trim away from the door panel. (There is a "hooked" piece of plastic on the back of that trim that prevents you from just pulling it out perpendicular to the door panel.) 'Hope these fine points help.

PS. My 1996 Camry had 2 screws on the bottom of the door that also were holding the interior door panel in place. That wasn�t in the article.

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Under the dash, driver's side. More specifically, it's on the side of the dash on the drivers side facing the door .... it's not underneith.

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P0135-Right rear (or just) upstream O2 sensor heater failure

P1684-The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts