This is a pretty straight forward replacement - only 2 mounting bolts, a vacuum hose and one other pipe that'll come off with an adjustable wrench.
NOTE: this notice is from the Autozone.com site regarding the EGR valve:
* **Caution!!** Before replacing the EGR Valve, inspect the DPFE/EGR Valve Pressure Feedback Sensor and hoses for proper operation. It is common for a DPFE sensor to set a trouble code See "Related Links" below for the DPFE sensor section of Autozone's online repair guide. It is located at the back of the engine on the top between the engine block and the front windshield. It should be black or chrome colored and kind of looks like a disk, with a small vacuum hose coming out the top of it. Just replaced mine in my Taurus today. Amanda nothing tricky, just be sure to clean the gasket surfaces...also You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:) its located next to the air inlet boot this is the boot that comes from the air cleaner housing the valve should be round black and has a vacuum line going to it But, if you are replacing it because there is a code for it you need to make sure that the valve is cause of it most fords had a problem with a sensor called a DPFE sensor which stands for differential pressure feedback exhaust sensor the problem is they would get moisture from the exhaust causing them to short out on most 99 models the egr valve is connected to the intake manifold.If you look at the top of the engine,while in front of the vehicle with the hood up,look just to the right at the right side of the valve cover tou will see a round shaped two inch thick just underneath clean air intake plenum tube also knownasthe air intake plenumtube hooks to the fender in most vans however this can be a tricky part to replace I sugest you get a chilton or haynes manual to help you out. Just look it up in the index or glossary and read the passage severaltimes before starting the work also pay close atention to how it comes of and apart because installation of the new valve will be reverse the procedure GOOD LUCK and GOD SPEED ---- It is attached to the throttle body. The throttle body is attached to the intake. Look for the large aluminum piece that will say ford, this is the intake. Look for the large tube going in to it, probably from the left if you are facing the windshield. where the large tube goes into the intake, it will first go into another piece of metal with wires etc going into it, this is the throttle body, the egr is on the throttle body. ---- I can answer my own question!! With help from a mechanic friend of mine...back ,top, center of engine, you will find the pod...Good luck to anyone trying to reach it, looks unreachable to me, barely viewable... ---- EGR Valve Inspect | Test | Replace There are many variations from one vehicle application to the next in emission control systems and calibration. Therefore, it is extremely important that you get the correct replacement exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve for the application. Two EGR valves may look identical, but be calibrated differently in terms of flow and the amount of vacuum and/or back-pressure it takes to open the valve. Therefore, you may have to refer to the vehicle's VIN number as well as year, make, model and engine size when ordering a replacement EGR valve. If may also be necessary to refer to the OEM part number on the old EGR valve (if possible) when ordering a replacement. If so, don't throw the old EGR valve away until you have installed the new one and made sure it's working correctly. Many aftermarket EGR valves are "consolidated," so fewer part numbers are necessary to cover a wider range of vehicle applications. Some of these valves use interchangeable restricters to alter their flow characteristics. Follow the suppliers instructions as to which restricter to use for the correct calibration. ---- This part cannot be cleaned....you can check it for replacement by allowing the engine to warm up and you should be able to move the diaphragm in with your finger (from behind)the egr...the factory default is sealed in the front
See "Related Questions" below for a similar discussion over in Taurus group - it all applies quite well to the Windstar ---- Real easy to spot-- Look to the LH side of the engine-- towards front-- It's a little black plastic box 1 inch by 1 1/2 inches square, 2 hoses connect to the bottom of it, and an electrical connector off tot the side. To disconnect the connector you have to squeeze a tab first before pulling, remember!
your check engine light will come and give a code for emmission can't remember the code. Put I had the same problem on my 2001 Ford Ranger.
PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation.
They are usually right in plain sight on top of the valve cover. If you had one you probably could have changed it yourself in about 30 seconds or less.
A PCV valve helps keep a constant pressure within the engine block by releasing oil fumes when they get to a certain pressure and sending them into the fuel system to be reburned with the gas.
While they can be inexpensive, they can be very hard to locate and remove on several makes of cars and trucks. Some are internal and cannot be replaced, meaning they are located inside the valve cover.
The PCVs that can be replaced should be replaced every 15 to 60 thousand miles depending on the make and engine you have.
Shop around for a better price than you paid, $12.00 is a little steep.
It stands for positive crankcase ventilation. And what they told u was right about replacing it. All it does is prevent condensation build up and burn fuel fimes that get by the rings. The condensation will build up and create sludge and that is a bad thing because it will block oil galleries and return holes and ur engine will run oil dry and it will be fried.
pos.crankcase vent keeps pressures even in your eng.returns fumes to the intake threw the air filter houseing.easy to check shake it if it rattles it should be good put it back
The answers are correct as to what it does, and how it is to be checked, though usually the "prescribed" way to check it is not just shaking, but trying to suck, or blow, air in both directions (it should be one-way).
However I have never heard of routinely replacing this item, and have known some cheapskates actually "revitalizing" them by spraying them with engine cleaner.
As to price, $9 is too cheap for a professional oil (and filter?) change, so they nailed you for the valve, by its cost, and probably by its need.
There isn't any free lunch.
buy one and keep it in your glove box. change it every other year. it is an emmission control device. it takes blow by and directs back to be used again. it is cheap insurance and prevents sludge. change it every time you get a tune up also change your airfilter out at the same time. If your airfilter is oil soaked, it probably due to a worn pcv valve. change the valve first then change the airfilter.
The PCV Valve, or Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is an emission control device that routes unburned crankcase blowby gases back into the intake manifold where they can be reburned. The PCV system is one of the oldest emission control devices, and also one of the most beneficial. Besides totally eliminating crankcase emissions as a source of air pollution, the constant recirculation of air through the crankcase helps remove moisture which otherwise would cause sludge to form. Thus the PCV valve extends the life of the oil and engine. The PCV valve requires little maintenance. The valve and filter should be replaced somewhere around 30,000 to 50,000 miles(see the vehicle owners manual for service intervals).
PCV is an acronym for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This valve is needed to relieve the pressure built up in the crankcase that is created by the heating of the air inside the engine. If this valve were not present and the pressure went unchecked, it would blow out the seals and gaskets inside your engine.
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This replaceable valve replaced the vent pipe on the engine, this got rid of the fumes and or pressure that builds up in the crankcase, nowadays the crankcase does not vent into the environment. with the PCV valve these fumes are returned to the intake manifold and are mixed in with the fuel intake stroke to be burned and so create a cleaner exhaust.Pcv valveI don't think a car has been built in the last 40 years that doesn't have a PCV valve. My 1965 Galaxie had one, but my 64 Ford pickup didn't. PCV means "Positive Crankcase Ventilation", in other words actively sucking junk out of the crankcase rather than just letting it be vented to the air.
The PCV valve allows unburned stuff that blows by the piston to be collected and re-burned rather than just vented to the air, without causing your engine to stall out at idle. This results in a serious reduction in air pollution at virtually no cost, which is why it was the first emissions control device employed.
Look on top of the valve cover. There should be a knob sticking out with a small diameter rubber hose attached to it. It will be inserted in a rubber grommet. You can just pull it out of the valve cover. If it's clogged it will be unnecessarily blowing junk into the air; if it's leaking, it will seriously foul up operation of your engine, especially at idle. They cost about two bucks and you can change it with your bare hands. Replace often. The book says 24000 miles/24 months. I always write the replacement date on them with a Sharpie so I can remember when I replaced it last.
I have a 1989 240sx with a 2.4 liter engine and I looked into this problem, and found that the only wrench I had that could fit it was 1-1/4 inches. I think that it is really 30 mm. I would think that yours would be the same size. Its located really close to the firewall though, so its a pain to remove with so little room.
Open bonnet its on righthand side of block
egr valve on 5.8l is located on top of engine, passenger side front bolted at intake
Ahh, the p0402 check engine light.
First make sure you're using throttle body cleaner, not carburetor cleaner. Carb cleaner will eat away at the lining on the inside of your manifold.
First remove the EGR valve. It's right on the back of your manifold and looks like a metal mushroom. Next unplug the wiring harness and hang it out of the way. The valve itself comes off fairly easy with two 10mm screws although you'll notice a wire brace has to be removed to get the screws out.
Now take the valve itself and go to town with your cleaner and some q-tips. Also, you'll notice that you can take a pencil and push down on the actual valve mechanism through the top hole. Do this as you clean to make sure the cleaner goes all the way through the valve.
Once the valve itself is as spotless as you can get it try your best to clean the insides of the holes on the manifold itself. When you're done replace the valve and the wiring harness and make sure it's bolted on nice and tight. There's no reason to use a gasket on this part. Then replace the wiring harness.
Now disconnect your positive battery terminal for about 20 seconds to turn off the check engine light and go for a drive. If the CEL comes back on then try again, otherwise you're good.
How to Diagnose a Bad EGR Cooler: This method is easy to do and is a good "test" if you have any of the three symptoms above. To do this test, turn off your rig. When its all cooled down, remove the EGR valve (between your alternator and oil filter - it looks like a 7-ounce beer can with wires going to it) and look inside with a flash light. If it looks wet, gooey or steam cleaned, then you probably have EGR cooler problems.
First of all, I would have to know what engine you have because they are all in differat places. If you have a 3100 V6 its under the intake. It will not cause overheating of any kind. Let me know if I can help you in any other way. Ray
It's on top of the engine near the windshield and looks like a small flying saucer.
FIRST LOOK ON LINE WHAT A 99 FORD TAURUS EGR VALVE LOOKS LIKE WILL HELP ALOT, BUT IT IS ON THE TOP AND REAR OF THE MANIFOLD BY THE FIREWALL IN THE MIDDLE, HELD ON BY TWO #10MM BOLTS AND A STEEL TUBE ASSY THAT GOES TO THE EXHAUST PIPE, REAL QUICK TO REMOVE,NOTE RUN MOTOR TO WARM UP EXHAUST PIPE TO MAKE THE STEEL TUBE HEX NUT EASY TO REMOVE
Follow the green plastic vacuum line from the EGR valve on your engine to a small black cplastic item, usually on the intake manifold. This will usually have one black and one green hard plastic vacuum line going to it. THIS is your solenoid.egr locationUnderneath the hood on the back wall it looks like a spinning top or a little pot with a lid. The EGR switch is right next to it. The back of the engine is the sparks plugs and it is above that on the back wall. I have yet to get it fixed. Charlotte Vincent
IT IS LOCATED ON INTAKEMANIFOLD
I checked Autozone.com and they didnt have the location. BUT, an EGR valve is normally attached to the intake manifold with a hose/tube connecting it to the exhaust manifold. It seems it would also be attached to the solenoid that you replaced.
missfiring cylinder possibly due to fouled spark plug, ignition timing incorrect (leads swapped around). The reason for the backfire is unburnt fuel accumulates in the very hot exhaust system and ignites there.
If the engine is running and did not previously back fire, and now backfires when the throttle is rolled off (on the over-run) then the most likely cause is an air leak either in the inlet manifold, between the carburettor and the head, or in the exhaust system, often where the pipe joins to the engine, or where the silencer joins the pipe.
These backfires are due to a LEAN mixture failing to ignite properly on every cycle and so allowing unburned fuel to build up until it finally goes 'bang'
if it backfires but won't run at all, then it could be several things from the camshaft being 180 degrees out to the spark plug leads (on a twin or multi-cyclinder) being on the wrong plugs.
backfires occur when not all the fuel is ignited in the engine and instead ignites in the exhaust.
Testing steps: * Remove the vacuum hose on the top of the EGR valve and plug it.
* Connect a short hose to the EGR valve.
* Start the car.
* Now suck on the hose, or use an appropriate tool to apply suction to the line * this will open the EGR valve the engine should stumble and try to die.
If it does the EGR valve is working. There is an "Exhaust gas manifold pressure sensor" that measures the exhaust gas flow to the EGR valve. The problem is the sensor itself becomes clogged with exhaust carbon and gives the computer a fixed false reading, the computer in turn sends too much vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine runs rough, surges and may die.
This sensor on the 3.0 cast iron engine ( overhead valve no overhead cam ) is located by the firewall on or near the intake manifold and is connected to an exhaust tube running to the EGR valve by 2 short rubber hoses and has a 3 pin connector.
The hoses measure pressure drop across a restriction inside the tube as exhaust gas flows through it to the EGR valve.
I've replaced the sensor on 2 different Taurus', my wife's 99 and my sons 2002, the cars run great afterwards and the light goes off.
About 40 bucks do it yourself easily. Twist the old sensor to loosen the hoses. Push the new sensor onto the hoses. The other engines should have a similar sensor somewhere.
go to autozone by the part take engine cover off and it on top off the moter on driver side 2 bolt to take off
The PCV valve is on the right side of the engine compartment, if you're facing the front of the vehicle, just under the air intake hose. Its not directly on the engine but rather inline with the oil separator tube/hose.
A) To access this area and change the PCV valve just follow these directions. They aren't as complicated as they seem... # using a 5/16" socket, loosen and remove the positive side cable of the battery.
# using a 5/16" socket or nut driver, loosen the worm drive clamp that holds the breather hose onto the manifold.
# next unsnap the clamps that hold the breather hose to the air filter housing.
# noting their positions disconnect the 3 airlines that connect to the breather hose.
# disconnect the 2 electrical connections from the air intake hose. The front one is the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the back one is the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, remove the air intake hose and set aside.
# now using a 5/16" socket remove the 2 screws holding the throttle cable cover.
# remove the 2 screws holding the throttle cable bracket. You now have the best access to the PCV valve. B) Now to replace the PCV valve pull the u shaped hose off the elbow. I recommend purchasing this molded new hose for about dollars from your Ford dealer. They tend to clog or collapse after several years. Next simply pull the PCV valve out of the oil separator hose and insert the new one. The whole process can be done in 15 to 30 minutes and save you a lot. C) Now just reinstall everything in reverse. The PCV valve is located on the drivers side, underneath the silver intake manifold. Follow the black accordion tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body valve. Place your hand on the bottom of the throttle body and you will find the PCV attached to two short rubber hoses. Hand access is limited, so you have to feel for the PCV and blindly remove the hoses from the PCV. Be patient, and allow time to finesse the new PCV onto both hoses. While you're at it, be sure to check the condition of the connecting hoses. I found one of mine to have totally collapsed on my 1998 DOHC v6. there is a pcv valve. it is located under the "snorkel" of the upper intake manifold. it is accessed by removing the vacuum line from the front valve cover at the rubber connector between the air filter housing and throttle body(swing out of the way, to the left is best). next remove the two screws that hold the throttle linkage cover in place and remove the cover. third remove the throttle return spring. you can now reach the pcv valve for removal and replacement. It's at the right rear corner (facing the engine), tightly underneath the throttle body. It is in-line in 1/2 inch or so diameter hoses - look for where the one of these hoses takes a 90 degree turn. 97 Merc sable, 12, valve, 3.0 liter, vulcan engine: located on top of intake manifold box, vertical position facing down. manafold box is on passsenger side, near firewall. horizontal hose extends to the right.
as hot as the exhaust manifold there are exhaust gases passing through it
the only way i know of is to pull the upper plentum mabely with swivel sockets and luck you could pull one set of the intake runners
In my Experience the egr value is located on top of the intake near the tpi unit.
There is a vacuum hose between the firewall and the back of the motor, it is formed with the 2 ends different diameters. The hose collapses when it is running which causes the engine to stall. I believe this is a dealer only item. Just replaced mine and the car runs fine now.
Take it to auto zone and have the codes read for free.
its just a vacuum hose probably. mine did it before too.
Autozone will not provide enough help.
Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.
Check that the Oxygen sensors are correctly installed and working. Also check with your ford dealership to see if your car is one of many that needs a new FUEL pump. Ford has a TSB on this and will replace it for free... I have a 2003 Focus SVT with all the same problems.
could be a PCV Valve. My 01' Ford Escort with similar engine needed that recently. Appox 5 dollars easy fix.
My 2000 Focus wagon had the exact same problem and I could hear vacuum sucking in the engine compartment. In the end it was two failures at once: 1) the PCV hose failure like everyone else, and 2) a broken white plastic vacuum cap on the intake manifold.
Some folks have luck simply replacing the odd-sized PCV hose with the Ford replacement, but I was not so lucky. In my case both ends of the PCV line (under the intake manifold and connected to the PCV valve) were bust. So, to replace the entire assembly I did the following:
I bought a "PCV elbow" (by Help! auto parts), hose clamps, 3 feet of 7/16" fuel line, and a replacement PCV valve all from Pep Boys. I bought a 1/2" brass hose connector from Lowe's. I connected the elbow to the fuel line with the brass connector and secured the PCV valve in the other end of the fuel line with a hose clamp. I removed the old hoses and PCV valve and replaced them with the new rig. I had to route the new hose around the engine block, but there was plenty of room.
I still had vacuum leaking and a really rough idle after replacing the PCV line. I found the source of the leak by using a length of hose as a stethoscope. It was a rotten, white plastic cap on the intake manifold. I bought a set of rubber vacuum plugs (by Help! auto parts) from Pep Boys and one was a perfect fit.
After both of these fixes the idle was back to where it was a couple of years ago. Good luck!
the vaccume hose is broken and is over heating you need to replace it for only $500:if nothing has helped so far, check your egr valve as it probably just needs a good cleanin'. egr stands for exhaust gas recirculation and is usually located between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. it gives metered, pre-heated air from the exhaust to the carburetor and generally has carbon deposits on it. it sounds like yours has an abundance of carbon in the passage causing the car to die when your approaching a stop sign or something.
Most EGR valves must be replaced with factory dealer parts in order to pass state emissions. Aftermarket valves will not pass the test. Keep this in mind when you finally replace it. Sorry I cannot give you details on how to do it.
The typical EGR valve can be cleaned and possibly repaired in some cases. Carbon build up can be scraped and blown out with compressed air.A pinhole in the rubber diaphragm (a common problem)can be fixed using high temperature silicone sealant. Locate the hole with soapy water while blowing into vacuum hose. Clean area with alcohol and let dry. Apply silicone sealant with a toothpick to the hole while sucking on the vacuum hose to draw the sealant into the hole. Let dry overnight. Such a repair can last many years and pass SMOG testing easily, saving the owner hundreds of dollars for parts and labor.
yes it runs off vaccum from the engine, it only works when the car is at cruising speed, not at idle or flat foot.
An EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Cooler is a heat exchanger installed in the EGR circuit. The EGR system recirculates exhaust back to the engine in order to reduce NOX (Nitrous Oxide) emissions. The cooler simply cools the exhaust gas prior to gas being reintroduced into the engine. By cooling the gas the combustion temperature is reduced and NOX also as NOX is formed at higher temperatures. Various cooler (heat exchanger) technologies are used by manufacturers, although tube and shell is the most common type used currently. Coolers will vary in size depending on the engine size and the emission standard the engine must comply with.
EGR recirculates exhaust back into the intake. It's function is generally to reduce cylinder temperatures (and some emmisions maybe) It depends on how it's failed. If it's failed in the open position, I'm guessing it may cause hard starting. If it fails in the closed position your cylinder temps will be higher. This makes a few things more likely to happen. #1 You could damage your exhaust valves. I've got a Geo Metro with a 1.0 liter engine. Smaller engines seem very sensitive to this. After my EGR failed, it burned up the valves in about 3000 miles. By the same token, my Plymouth Horizon had the same issue for 10000 miles with no noticable affect. #2 You may get pinging or pre-ignition more easily. #3 If you are running it hard or your cooling system isn't up to snuff, you are more likely to overheat. ...#1 is the worst, and causes permanent damage quickly in some engines.
Remove the interior filter including housing
Remove the heat shield from the engine (Do not pull at a corner!)
You see the plastic inled manifold in front of you, you see a little sensor at the smallest point of the inled manifold.
Next to it you see a metal pipe. Follow this to the back of the engine en you will see (or should I see Feel?) the EGR valve.
Takes us at the dealer about 3 hours to replace. Good luck
(In 1999 the 2.4 or LD9 didn't have an egr valve on the 1998 LD9 the egr valve is on the tranny side of the motor towards the front of the car.)
This answer is only partially correct....
Your car may or may not have one. Gm switched half way through 99 to a non EGR setup. So... Some had it and some didn't. IF you do have one it is extremely easy to find. It is on the front, top, driver side of the engine(just a few enchis from your battery). Just next to the Black blastic intake manifold. Look for a Black round plastic device mounted on top of a metal triangular part, that has a metal flex tube coming off the front of it. Bingo, EGR. If there is nothing there then your car is mid 1999 and up with no EGR.
Short answer: YES!
Longer answer: The EGR valve is designed to recirculate some exhaust gas into the intake, in order to cool combustion temperatures somewhat. If the combustion temps exceed 1100 degrees (actually common in gasoline engines) then oxides of nitrogen are produced. these gases are what we see as visible smog. If the EGR valve fails, it can lead to very high exhaust temps which can gradually melt the insides of the catalytic converter. If a failed EGR is combined with a lean fuel mixture, or over-advanced ignition timing, the melting of the converter happens very quickly.
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