Um, you probably shouldn't have had glass around the open spark plug hole in the first place. this could make it hard for your spark plug to fit into place, or even send the spark to the cylinder. You will have to take apart the head and remove the glass depending on how big the shard, or piece is.
How to remove power steering pump
it will be poking out of the transmission bellhousing where it attaches to the engine. It is on the passanger side (Right side) of the engine, right below the intake manifold. It has the battery positive cable and a smaller wire from the ignition attached to it and is held in place by two 13-MM headed bolts. Remember to remove the negative battery cable before going anywhere near the starter.
Remove the wheel. Unbolt the caliper from the back, i believe there are two bolts that hold it in place on the tracker. Make sure you remember the placement of the 2 bolts, sometimes they are not identical and you do not want to accidentally mix them up.
Slide the caliper up off the brake disk.
Remove the old pads, check which pad has the "squealer" ( a small metal piece that rubs against the disk to make you aware of a worn pad.)
With the pads removed, use an 8" C clamp to compress the cylinder into the caliper, keep compressing cylinder until it is all the way in the caliper.
Then, simply put the new pads back in the caliper, making sure the inner and outer match the ones that were removed (look for that "sqealer").
Slide the caliper back over the disk and put the 2 bolts back in place, again make syre they go right back where they belong, do not mix them up.
When all the pads have been replaced, pump the brakes several time, with the engine running to adjust them. They will feel squishy at first but will firm up with a few pumps.
Check the front brakes first, they tend to wear long before the rear brakes and probably do not need changing yet.
The truth is you should probably go to the dealer to get diagnosed because it could be the motor (regulator) or a short somewhere in the line.
The door is easy to get to and fairly simple wiring; I recently fixed my stereo and had to take door panel off to access the mids. Buy a manual and continuity tester and with some patience you can track the short. There are also 2 relays (a up and down relay) that lock or unlocks the door.
I just had mine done today at 117 000 km, along with the pads. I had the pads done at 45 000 km before that. City Driving up to 75 000 km, Highway Driving to 117 000 km.
Um...1996. go to www.rallytops.com. They have all the models.
ITEM IS LOCATED ABOVE LICENSE PLATE AS STATED........MY HANDLE WAS SO RUSTED IT WOULDNT MOVE..........SO IF YOU ARE THE SAME.....GET IN THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE...REMOVE THE PLASTIC PIECES ON THE INSIDE OF THE TAILGATE.........PUSH THE MIDDLE OF THE BUTTON THINGS HOLDING ON THE PLASTIC.....WITH A SMALL FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER REMOVE THE BUTTON THINGS........THEN WHEN ALL BUTTONS REMOVED .....TAKE OF PLASTIC PIECE......................INITIALLY YOU WILL SEE FOUR 10 MM NUTS.... REMOVE THE OUTER TWO.......THIS WILL THEN REMOVE THE COVER TO THE HANDLE........
YOU WILL THEN PROB NOTICE THAT THE HANDLE IS RUSTED LIKE NO OTHER.....YOU CAN ATTEMPT TO LUB HANDLE UP AND MIGHT MOVE........BUT I WAS NOT SO LUCKY..GOOD LUCK
The dip stick is on top of the valve cover in the middle,should have a yellow top.
turn the round gray part behind the light, remove the wire and pull the bulb out, reverse to reinstall
I have a 95 blazer and the passenger side back seat has more than once refused to go down.
There is a thin cable inside the back of the seat and is supposed to hook and secure by means of a small ball at the end of the cable into a slot on the back of the seat located under the latch that you pull on to lower the seat. The cable slips down inside of the back - but unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get to it - except to take it to a dealer - which I don't do anymore.
You will probably have to remove the seat back cover. It is close at the bottom with a "J and arrow" or two j-straps. I would begin by taking those apart (use a screwdriver to help). See if you can feel around and figure out the problem. It you have to take the trim completely off you will need to remove the headrests. Good luck.
In some cases the seat will get jammed and you have to push the seat back then pull the handle
This depends on the motor size. By the way, if you have to ask this question, then it not something you'll be able to diagnose or replace.
If you are going to change the belt, go to Auto Zone or another parts store and get a manual on your car. It will show you how to do it. cam gear has a notch and a bump which points toward top and sort of lines up with belt cover back plate. crank has a key which lines up to a arrow shaped tab also on the top side of that gear on engine. as for the tensioner belt adjuster, the manual isn't too clear on proper adjustment. good luck
The FSM only that is the factory service manual don't trust any other as the do not always include TSB Technical Service Bulletins. Do not guess unless you have lots of available cash. Check out http://www.suzuki-forums.com/ look for jerrys kick-fix link. He is a Suzuki Tech and he has saved me tons of money.
It depends on the type of vehicle that you have. You have to remove the caliper which is what holds the brake pads and squeezes them against the rotor (the part the wheel bolts to) so that the friction stops the vehicle. Different manufacturers use different methods to mount the caliper. GM uses 2 bolts to hold the caliper in place using either a torx head bolt or a 3/8 hex bolt. Some Fords use two expandable pins to hold them in place that you can drive out of their slot with nothing more than a screwdriver or punch. After you get the caliper off you have to push the piston back into the caliper or the new pads won't fit in the space and go back over the rotor. Sometimes you can do this with a large pair of channel lock type pliers or with a special tool made for it but it has to be done. If the rotor has been scraping the metal plate of the old pads and and/or has grooves in it to any extent at all then they need to be "turned" on a brake lathe to true the surfaces or the new brakes will wear out very rapidly. If the rotors are severly worn and too thin then they will have to be replaced also. Best thing to do is talk to your guys at the auto parts store and they can explain that procedure to you.
In the glove compt
For the front speakers, take apart the door, disconnect the speaker wires and unscrew support screws.
ask UHaul - you can bet that their lawyers have given them guidelines as to what cars can adequately pull the trailer. Their advertising says that basically any car can pull it. The main question should be what your hitch is rated for.
The 1999 Ford Escort officially can only pull 1000lbs (see owners manual). So the answer really depends on 2 things - whether the loaded trailer will weigh more than 1000lbs and how comfortable you are exceeding that limit assuming that your trailer hitch is rated for more than 1000lbs.
I am fitting my 1999 Escort wagon with a 2000lb hitch for pulling a small pop-up tent trailer this week, so have nothing further to report on the little car's ability to pull a trailer weighing slightly more than 1000lbs up long grades, etc.
A few things to consider when towing a trailer:
- go slow - leave lots of extra room to stop - use lower gears on hills and grades to reduce likelihood of engine overheating - turn off air conditioning on uphill grades
Something for you to consider.
I purchased the Haynes DIY repair manual for the chev tracker/suzuki vitara and there are quite a few wiring diagrams in it. Hopefully the one you need will be in there. I haven't really looked to see how comprehensive they are, but I believe they are complete. You can probably get this manual at a parts store or even at Wal-Mart or a hardware store. Being Canadian, I purchased mine at Canadian Tire basicall because it was the closest. Hope this helps!
Check the rotor and cap.
Could be bad wires. Deteriorating insulation could have caused the interference and could now be shorting before current reaches the plug. Look at the wires at night or it the dark hood open have someone crank the engine over while its beeing cranked spray wires and cap with water you will see them arking out , sparking.
The only recommendation I can give you is to slow down for turns. Turning to fast or driving like it's a sports car is just asking for trouble. If you just take it easy on the turns, then the threat of flipping is pretty low. In fact, only one test said it was "easy to flip" and that was for a different car, the Suzuki Samurai which, despite looking similar, is a completely different car, and there is evidence (videos) that those tests were modified specifically to paint a bad picture, though Consumer Reports denies this.
Suzuki even filmed footage of them performing the turns necessary to just get the Samurai on two wheels. If your a casual/normal driver and not a crazy speed demon who wants to go to Nascar with their Geo, then you shouldn't be afraid of flipping that much. Be more afraid of windy days that you have long trips on highways, the Tracker is light and is easily pushed by crosswind.
Final word: Trackers are not that easy to flip as you have heard unless you drive it like a Metro or a Storm. Take it easy and don't push it. Remember, the Tracker only has seatbelts for safety (usually) so don't risk anything. The best way to impove any car in the turns is to lower the ride. Because if you lower the car you will lower the center of gravity, whitch in turns improves the handling. However you should lower the car the right way not the wrong way. EXAMPLES WRONG WAY: cut or heat the springs to lower the suspension RIGHT WAY: Buy aftermarket drop spindles and aftermarket lowering srings or struts
There are several types. Go to the parts store and most will show you how to change them
Yes, the blinking securtity light will blink when the car is off.
in the glove compartment, You cant see it unless you bend down and look up towards the top of the glove compartment on the right side. It's a pull handle.
Take it to an independent garage. On some cars it is fairly simple to remove the lock cylinder and replace it (the ignition tumbler & keys for my 1989 cavalier was only $25; unfortunately, it is a long task to get it apart). If it is the ignition swith, same applies, on some cars it is quite simple. I found that the best advice I gto was from an auto wreckers (they know how to dismantle a variety of vehicles)
Remove the rear drive shaft and use a 2 wheel car hauler.
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