I have a 98 4dr trackertwo wheel dr. autotrans with a two part shaft with center support assembly consisting of cv joint and rubber vibration dampner with spline. This shaft is approx $1000.00 from dealer. Apparently instead of rebuilding, a straight shaft is offerd for a fraction of the cost. however I was told this may stress the drie train (trans/differintial?).or cause vibration posibly from engin harmonics? Check with Rockauto.com for shaft and have picture emailed. personally. Id rather spend $250.00 for a straight one and take my chances. I also need to ask myself why do they (CARDONE) make the stright shaft if it dozent work. Who do I ask if it does work> The shaft this guys mentions is a front shaft, not the 2 piece shaft that is required. They do not make a straight shaft. Junkyard or new is the only way to get what you need. For a 4dr 4x2 automatic.
I had a 99 tracker that over heated, it was the water pump
New to this forum. I needed to expand on my question of what causes my Tracker to overheat. I have recently replaced the radiator cap and thermostat. This vehicle has about 60,000 miles and I bought it used at 50,000. It seemed well taken care of and I've had no problems till this.
Since the weather has turned chilly this thing overheats. It pushes the coolant in to the overflow bottle and overheats. I have noticed no pattern to when this happens, I can't predict with any certainty if driving conditions are causing overheating. I've been getting by till now by pouring the contents of the bottle back in the radiator. Sometimes this will get me by for a day or two, or I might only be able to go 20 miles and it overheats again. I do not detect a leak at the water pump. The inside of the radiator looks clean, what I can see I do not detect any scale or sludge.
Does anyone have any ideas? If more information is needed let me know.
Answer1 Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly ? 2 Radiator core blocked or radiator grille dirty and restricted ? 3 Fan blades broken or cracked ?
Hi im not sure if this applies to you or not but im thinking belt slipping @ water pump or some pumps have plastic fins on the inside if they were worn or broken you would be getting very little circulation through the system.
Have you checked to see if the cooling fan clutch is still functing properly?
12-12-2009
I actually had a very similar problem with the Tracker I bought just over a year ago. My temperature gauge would climb, but not quite enter the red zone; it would stabilize for a while then drop back to normal. I tried 2 thermostats, the serpentine belt, and a new water pump; but the problem just got worse, the gauge would go up faster and get closer to the red zone. I finally took it to the shop, and the tested for exhaust gases in the cooling system; it had a leaky head gasket. I had the head gasket replaced, and haven't had any problems with the temperature since.
Your problem is most likely being caused by your daytime running lamp sensor. It's located on top of your dashboard near the windshield on the passenger side. Try disconnecting the sensor. A little more info might help narrow the problem, like , do you bright lights work when you push the turn signal lever forward, or do they only work when you pull it back, in it's temporary brights position? If this is the case, you can rest now. Don't let anyone tell you to replace the assembly on the steering column. That's a cool $200.00 bucks for a brand new part that isn't going tofixthe problem. Of course you should check all fuses that are related to high and low beams. Hope this helps you out.
If you mean the serpentine belt that runs the pulleys on the front of the car, there is a tensioner pulley that you can turn with a wrench to release the tension. Make sure you remember the routing of the belt so you can put the new belt on the same way.
check the ground wire to that headlight .
i guess you mean,
no park, swapped ECU ? and still no spark.
check all the fuses above your left knee.
98 still has a distributor.
so put in a new cap and rotor and wire and plugs, "tune it up"
if no spark, then its:
Bad Distrubutor parts, major.
cmp sender, Ignitor and the coil is inside.
rebuilt distributors are sold by all major auto stores.
you should feel a vibration or shimmy in yoursteering wheel. also you can take you car to a les schwab and they could tell you
Its on the rear of the engine,twards the firewall area.pick up a Haynes Maunal and it wil show you exactly.
Beware the mounts are brittle,if you snap or crack the pipe expect to pay alot for both an EGR valve and the emmissions pipe
Separate the engine from the transmission. Removing flywheel or ring gear might be necessary for access. You can usually use a hammer and punch to tip the plug in it's hole and pull it out with pliers. When installing the new plugs, a small amount of permatex or shellac compound will insure against leaks.
It would usually cost around $900 because they need to remove the Trasmission. Most of the price is in the labor. The part is cheap.
If you get under your truck between the two front tires, and look up you should see it. It is cylindrical and is on the passenger side of your flywheel.
If you are referring to the console housing inside the car, it is to allow you to change gear without having foot on brake, gently pull the small button and your shifter will release and move
It could be loose lug nuts, CV joints, U-joints, wheel bearing, bad tire or any number of problems not mentioned. But start with the above, in the order mentioned. If your car isn't front wheel drive, it doesn't have CV joints. If it IS front wheel drive it doesn't have U joints.
Follow the top rad hose to your intake manifold, where the rad hose is connected on the intake manifold is called your thermostat housing. Drain your coolant level some (preferably while the engine is cool to avoid burns) then disconnect the rad hose from the housing. Next undo the two bolts holding the housing to the manifold and gently remove the housing with the use of a small scraper. Once the housing is removed you'll find the thermostat. Simply lift the thermostat out of it's place, clean off and remaining gasket material from the base of the housing. Place the new thermostat in the manifold, then the new gasket in the proper position and finally the housing back on the manifold. Carefully tighten the bolts back in place (there is actually a torque spec for these two bolts) then reattach the rad hose and add new coolant to bring the fluid up to its required level.
The alternator may be going bad.
yes it comes with hard top a toneau top and soft top.
There is another fuse box (all minifuses) located under the dash on the drivers side, there is a 20 amp fuse that works both the radio and lighter there