Fuel and Engines

We commonly relate fuel and engines with gasoline. Other engines also run on natural gas such as propane and “bio-fuels” such as ethanol. The principle remains the same as the fuel induces internal combustion.

10,860 Questions
Cars & Vehicles
Fuel and Engines

How far can you drive your vehicle after the low fuel light comes on?

How far you can drive “on empty,” or when the low fuel light illuminates, is typically somewhere between 25 and 108 miles, according to a chart from car repair and maintenance company YourMechanic. The chart looks at the top 50 selling vehicles in the U.S. in 2015, and for each of them, it details how much fuel is left when the gas light goes on and roughly how many miles you can drive without running totally dry.

How far your fumes will take you depends on several factors, including your driving habits, the road conditions, and what type of car you have. It’s important to note that although sometimes driving on empty is a necessity, it should not be made a habit, as it can do serious damage to your vehicle by sending debris that rest near the bottom of the tank up through the fuel pump.

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Fuel and Engines
Combustion Engines

What are stages of combustion in CI engines?

Intake, compression, power/combustion, exhaust.

Same as a standard SI (Spark Ignition)

CI (Combustion Ignition) is how diesel operates. They contain no spark plugs.

The compression heats the fuel to the point of SELF COMBUSTION .

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Fuel and Engines
Mechanical Engineering
Pneumatics

What is the maximum temperature produced in diesel engine during cycle?

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Fuel and Engines
Oil and Oil Filters
Dodge Ram Van
Combustion Engines

Is a Gumout engine flush worthwhile?

Make up your own mind but here are 12 of the best opinions#1Sometimes it depends on how many miles there are on your vehicle. It can do some harm by removing too much. An old way I know and do myself is to add one quart of transmission fluid, drive around for an hour or so, then change the oil. It is a softer way to clean the engine instead of those heavy duty engine flushes. Seafoam carb and injection cleaner works great too. I used it in my lawn mower motor and in the gas. Hope I helped! #2No, I do not recommend that anyone put gumout engine flush in their car. It was recommended to me at a professional oil change shop. I pulled out of the parking lot and 15 minutes later my car slung a rod because it had broken oil loose but it didn't all go out with the flush. Instead it clobbered up on other parts and stopped oil from moving through my engine at all. Now I'm having to take this matter to court in order to have my car repaired. #3We had the engine in our 1996 Dodge Caravan (110,000 miles) flushed with Gum Out this summer, and it ruined the engine. We had to purchase a new vehicle. We are negotiating with Speed Lube to pay for the ruined vehicle. #4Never flush an engine -- change your oil faithfully or better yet invest in synthethic oil on your changes and you won't have to think about flushing it. When you "flush" the oil, the slop (especially if your not faithful to oil changes) will go to the oil pan. It then plugs up the oil pump and starves the motor for oil until it cooks it. #5Yes, I think the flush is worth while. MAny "SUV" or truck owners I deal with either neglect or ignore the proper maintenance recommendations on their vehicle. I have dealt with between oil changes going 4k-10k before they come into my shop. Virtually all the oil has burned or sludged to the point it is caked under the valve cover. For those individuals I say "flush away"! #6The oil pressure on my 90 Ford Aerostar would drop to 0 at idle after the engine was warm. Suspecting the pressure relief valve in the oil pump was stuck, I added a quart of Gumout Engine flush as instructed on the can. Not only is the oil pressure back to normal, the fuel mileage has improved. My guess is the lifters operate more efficiently. #7ok for those who said that gumout can can kill your engin....

I agree it is possible for the sluge to go into your oil pump and cause it plug up, but if you read on the back of the can it says if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it you need to take the oil pan off and clean all the excess sluge off, this will fix your problem with puging up your oil pump, unless it just happend to do it while your flushing your engine in the five min. another thig to stop this is to put a new oil filter on before you begin to flush, because your old filter most likely cant filter enough. Once the flush is done put another oil filter on

#8I'd have to say the tranny fluid in the oil is the best idea so far. To prevent the problem I also agree on using synthetic oil. Use store brand synthetic if you're frugal. Basicly, if you need to use gumout, you've been abusing your engine anyway. Had a 4L Jeep and a 5L Chevy k1500 die after gumout clogged the small channels used to distribute the oil - so about 6-8k miles later, the valves were burning up and the engine started braking internal components. And that's with removing the oil pan on both, and changing the sump screen, oil filter, etc. #9You know I have been using the product for years . There are a couple of things to keep in mind . The main one is if this is not a routine thing then it will have to be flushed twice and the filter changed in between flushes . What happens is the flush itself doesn't ruin your engine the debre in your engine does . Everyone that has a problem after one flush is due to the engine is so nasty on the inside gunk disolves everything , but it is not drained out the oil pan . You can blame it on the flush or you can blame it on how many times you have missed an oil change at 3500 intervials . If you think changing the oil at every 3500 miles is all there is don't get me started on the air filter , breather filter , pcv valve , and fuel filter ! #10I've read everyone's answers and most of them seem to address that unless you have kept up the proper maintenance on your vehicle and that it's the sludge buildup that kills your engine and not the flush, are there any special care instructions written in the directions and if so shouldn't they perform these precautions at the service businesses when the service is being offered? Has anyone contacted a rep at the services corporate offices or Pennzoil-Quaker State company to confirm this? It just seems to me that there's allot of guessing going on as to why a few people have had egine problems after using the product. I personally have used the service after 80,000 miles on my Chevy pickup and have not had a problem since. #11Any "engine flush in a can" has the potential to cause problems. As others have said, the loosened sludge, carbon and particulate will only end up in the sump to cause problems later. (It will also break down the surface tension of the oil.) 10% of the old oil remains in an engine after an oil change. That 10% is in the casting cavities and the bottom of the sump.There is only one safe flush system which, unfortunately, is not available in the USA. Best solution for automobile owners-Buy a cheap oil, run it 500 miles and change the oil and filter. Do that 3 times and then go back to a good quality oil, either mineral or synthetic and use a good quality filter. #12I use kerosene. Drain a quart of old oil out and add 1 quart kero. in. Run at idle 20 mins. then drain. Next, pour 1 quart of oil in the engine with the oil pan plug off so the oil drains. That helps clear out the kero. and loose debris. Then do a reg. oil change, wait 1000 miles and change oil and filter again.
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Fuel and Engines
Fuel and Fuel Intake

Why do diesel engines require more maintenance?

They dont, diesel engines are generally more reliable than gas engines, and alot simpler due to the fact that the entire ignition system found in gas-powered engines is deleted entirely from the diesel equation. (Diesel engines don't have spark plugs, they rely on compression to ignite the fuel, meaning: they sqeeze the diesel fuel so much that it explodes)

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Fuel and Engines

Hard starting diesel engine when engine is hot?

Most of the time a diesel has a hard time starting when its cool. When they have a hard time starting when hot, it is usually caused by the fuel running back into the tank. Check for a cracked fuel filter housing or a cracked low pressure fuel line. It is possible you have the wrong fuel filter. Install a top quality name brand filter like Wiks or Baldwin that has an anti bleed back valve in the filter.

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Fuel and Engines
Timing and Firing Orders

What can cause a car to backfire?

Bad fuel or incorrect timing and/or weak spark or other component in secondary ignition system.

usually late ignition timing could cause this or an excessive amount of fuel in the exhaust system.

backfire can be caused by choke not shutting off completely, also could have a bad distributor cap, bad spark plugs, bad ignition condensor, bad plug leads, or to much fuel getting to carburetor system

Consider getting yourself a service manual as it contains many troubleshooting for your car. Comes very handy sometimes.

Can also be caused by crossed spark plug wires meaning they are not connected in the proper order

Also

Listen to the Signs of the Car talking to you,

Is the Backfire coming from the Tailpipe area or the Engine Compartment area?

Signs of backfire can be caused Vacuum Leak, in and around the Intake Manifold Base Gasket areas, and the Carb. Base or Throttle Body Base, and in any of the many different

Vacuum hoses/lines depending on your make or model, "Use Caution with what you use to seek out the Vacuum leaks, as many aresol base products contain a petroleum base

which can cause severe flash fires,

( especially on and around HOT Engine Parts & Faulty or Loose Plug wires )

in Running Conditions.

Always RememberSAFETY FIRST,You want to drive it after you fix it,"NOT look a pictures of its chard remains,in a Hospital Burn Ward."

Be Safe Now / Cruise Longer

A car backfires because unburned fuel is getting to the muffler. The heat of the exhause system causes the fuel to combust, thus a backfire. I have just been told that the rubber on my exhaust has split - could this be why the car would backfire? I have heard something about air getting into the exhaust could cause a backfire? back fire can be caused by different faults. first is to much fuel because of worn carburetter, or wrong adjusments on carburetter. choke sticking will cause backfire. timing be out of adjustment will cause backfire exhaust leak can cause backfire. bad spark plugs, or plug leads , distributer cap worn of cracked will cause backfire as for fuel in muffler, if it combusted in muffler , the muffler would split open it is not that. and i dont know of any rubber on an exhaust that would take the heat aexhaust manifold gaskets could be problem but if they were rubber they would melt \ is it good or bad to have backfire It can also be done with intentional modification, such as done in ''Keeping Up Appearances'' British sitcom. A fuel line and an oxidizer line are added to the muffler with a manual rubber bulb pump added to the line as the ''backfire button.'' At a point before entering the muffler, the lines have a pair of backflow valves to prevent the flame from racing into the mixture tanks. Squeezing the bulbs dispense a mixture of pure alcohol and an oxidizer into the muffler to create a reaction. For Onslow's car in the TV programme, copier toner was squirted in the tailpipe for a heavy soot effect on the backfire command. Having a car backfire can shake off any parts that aren't bolted completely, and can cause the engine to stall because the pressure of the backfire can temporarily disrupt the exhaust release from the engine. Besides, it would spook horses, cows, or anyone not used to loud noises. So having the car backfire down a Harlem road won't have the same effect, as a car backfiring down a rural city road.

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Fuel and Engines
Head Gaskets and Valve Covers

Is it possible to repair a burned valve head with chemical additives?

More than likely you will have to remove the head but, you can try injecting a product such as Seafoam or Techron into the engine through a vacuum hose and it may or may not work. Follow the directions to the letter. I have seen it work but I have also seen it fail to help. Worth a try for the $6 it will cost to try.

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Fuel and Engines
Fuel and Fuel Intake

How do you separate petrol and diesel?

Distillation, Gasoline has a lower boiling-point, so it will separate-out first.

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Fuel and Engines
Oil and Oil Filters

What happens when a diesel runs low on oil?

Same as any internal combustion engine - it overheats and wears out.

Oil provides many protections to an engine. While it can cause over-heating, there are many other things that happen. If your diesel engine uses Huey style injection it uses oil pressure and viscosity as a reference for injection pressure. If your oil pressure or quality is low less fuel is injected into the cylinder for each combustion event. It's a good indicator that you need to check your oil, but it's mostly inconvenient. Oil, when pressurized inside your engine provides a cushion between the crank journals and the main bearings (block), Rod bearings and crank, cam and block, lifters and block, lifters and cam, valve and guide, the list goes on. If your engine runs low enough on oil to prevent the oil pump pick-up from drawing oil from the pan something is going to miss out on lubrication. Depending on what style engine you have (priority main-oiling or no) the damage can get severe very quickly. If you had it a quart low I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just top it off. If your stick was dry the last time you checked it you might be in trouble.

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Fuel and Engines
Fuel and Fuel Intake

Is turbocharging possible in petrol engines?

Absolutely! Turbocharging gasoline engines is a great way to make more power or better fuel economy, depending on the way the turbo is setup.

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Fuel and Engines

What engine valve is the largest?

The intake valve is usually larger.

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Fuel and Engines
Fuel and Fuel Intake

What is the difference between marine diesel and diesel?

Most difference in the Dimensions. Bigger ones are two stroke with cross head. Coolant and lubrication oil are cooled by see water normally. If You mean fuel than marine diesel fuel has lower standard for sulfur contents and cleanness. There is special fuel treatment system on board like settling tanks, purifiers, fine filters etc

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Fuel and Engines

What causes the engine to smoke?

First, consider getting yourself a factory service manual for your vehicle as it often has the correct troubleshooting information for your vehicle. It really comes very handy when the car starts having problems.

What is the temp gauge reading? Does it overheat? Sweet smelling smoke out of the exhaust pipe is actually steam from water leaking into the cylinders and boiling off. You most likely have a blown head gasket. This is even more likely if the car has severely overheated due to a recent cooling system failure, i.e. broken water hose, bad water pump, hole in the radiator or heater core, etc. Also check for water in the oil, which shows up as a thick yellow goo (the technical term) on the dipstick or oil cap. A mechanic can perform a leakdown test to determine if there is a leak. From the symptoms you described, this one seems like a no-brainer. You should have the head gasket replaced IMMEDIATELY. A broken head gasket can cause more problems. Water leaking into the cylinders can break starters and flywheels. Water in the oil can degrade the oil's lubrication properties to the point the motor can seize. Once the head gasket is replaced, check for any other cooling system problems that cause overheating or you may blow the new gasket.

It could also be worn piston rings if the motor has high mileage

I don't know about a " No Brainer", There are a variety of possibilities. Is the smoke coming out the tailpipe?, is it coming off the engine itself, coming from the engine compartment? Clearly, more information is needed to answer this question.

Could be oil leaking out onto the manifold. Look for oil leaking out of the engine. You may need to replace the gasket under the cylinder cover (takes about 15 mins).

Additionally, smoke from the tailpipe will be of 3 distinct colors. White smoke is a coolant leak, blue smoke is from oil burning, and black smoke is an overly rich fuel mixture.

First, you need to be more specific about the kind of smoke and where it's coming from.The usual smoke complaint is from the tailpipe, and it's easily diagnosed simply by the color of the smoke.Black smoke indicates too rich of a mixture, on older vehicles this was almost always due to a stuck choke.Blue smoke is from worn rings, the oil is going past them and burning in the cylinders.White smoke is from coolant in the cylinders, and is actually steam since coolant doesn't burn. This is usually caused by a blown head gasket.If it's coming off the engine (under the hood), you have some sort of leak such as coolant or oil onto something hot such as your exhaust manifold.
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Car Shaking Problems
Car Smells
Fuel and Engines

What makes a car run sluggish and smoke really bad?

White smoke = Coolant entering the combustion chamber. STOP driving this car until this is repaired or you will destroy this engine.

Black Smoke = Overly rich fuel/air mixture. Too much fuel not enough air. STOP driving until this is repaired or you will ruin the converter and O2 sensor and possible do other damage.

Blue Smoke = Engine is burning oil. Worn rings is normally the cause.

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Brakes and Tires
Fuel and Engines
Car Starting Problems

Why will a car turn over but not start?

Why a Car Would Turn Over But Not StartLay answer: in addition to the battery voltage to "turn the engine over"...ignition requires spark and gas. I'm having the same problem with our 86 Volvo. The mechanic says the spark plugs are providing the spark...but fuel isn't getting to the cyliders. It's probably a blown fuse to the fuel pump or a bad fuel pump...or more remotely a poor connection between the fuse and the fuse clips...or a leak in the fuel line. Our car has two fuel pumps and since our problem has been intermittant, like yours, and we've checked fuses and connections, we're betting it's one of the fuel pumps pooped out.

Here are more opinions and answers from other FAQ Farmers:

  • If I remember right I think compression is the 3rd element to an engine running. timing belt or timing chain? You need to eliminate each one(fuel,spark or compression)first and then continue narrowing down from there. I have seen dampness cause ignition wires to fail among a multitude of others. Have a real tech troubleshoot it, other wise your gonna replace good parts guessing.
  • It is one of three things. It isn't getting proper spark, proper fuel, or proper compression. Use the process of deduction and find out. If the engine turns over the starter isn't bad.
  • Well it depends on the car but it could be that you don't have spark, you could have a big vacuum leak, timing might be off. But don't flood your motor if your in a hurry!
  • There are several possibilities: lack of fuel, sprk or compression, these are possible Maintenence items among many other possiblities: spark plugs (worn), ignition wire (Worn), distributor cap (worn), distributor rotor (worn), fuel filter (too dirty), air filter (no air getting in) and timing belt (timing is off).
  • It is worthwile to check for spark from the coil before considering the distributor, spark plug wires or sparkplugs. Assuming that lack of spark is the problem.
  • Another thing it could be is that your car is flooded , requiring possibly 3 hours for plugs to dry.
  • I had a problem on a 1994 ranger that turned out to be a motion switch that had been tripped when the car was bumped. It caused the electric fuel pump not to turn on.
  • If the car is a Chrysler product and just cranks but won't fire, it could be the fusible link. On Ford and GM cars the car will not even crank if it is bad but on Chryslers it will just crank. I don't know about imports.
  • Other possible sources of fuel related problems are a collapsed fuel line(depending on how old the car is) or plugged filter. Before you drive yourself nuts trying to locate the fuel shut off that the fellow described on the ranger.....it's been my experience that is only on ford models(you don't say anything about your make or yr)in the trunk in cars. Good luck
  • Correction: It's primarily fuel, spark, and timing. Timing problem of course can lead to lack of compression. Clarification: The comment on the '94 Ranger is correct. Many Fords have what is called an "inertia switch" which will cut off the fuel pump. This is designed to benefit the occupants in the case of a severe accident. I don't believe any other domestic maker uses this, but some imports do such as Jaguar.
  • A GASOLINE internal combustion engine needs 3 things to function properly: 1) fuel, preferrably delivered at the right mixture, but generally if it's there and the other two components are met, the engine will at least run. 2) ignition, often referred to as a spark or fire, ignition timing must be within a couple degrees of factory settings otherwise the engine may not run at all. Ignition spark strength must also be high enough to be adequate for the air/fuel mixture to ignite, but generally it is an all or nothing situation in the newer, electronic ignition systems. 3) compression, if the compression is up, the cylinders, valves and camshaft are functioning adequately and the timing chain/belt/gear is timed properly. If all three of the above conditions are met, the engine will start when it is cranked. To find out why it won't start, you have to find out which of the above conditions isn't being met. Rather than approach the problem in a "shotgun" manner, it's best to be methodical in your approach. First, spray some starting fluid into the air intake while a friend tries to start the engine. If the engine runs briefly while you are spraying starting fluid, you have good reason to believe that the engine is not getting fuel... item 1 on the requirements. If the starting fluid didn't give you any clues, pull a sparkplug wire from the plug (any one will do) and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the sparkplug on a solid metal part of the engine and have your friend crank the engine again while you watch the sparkplug. You should see a bright spark if the ignition is working properly. And finally, if the above two tests didn't give you any information, run a compression test. Since all valves and all cylinders don't generally fail at the same time, you'll only be testing the timing of the camshaft, but that's pretty important. Mark the location of each sparkplug wire. I generally use a piece of masking tape with the cylinder number, then wrap the tape around the sparkplug wire, making a little flag or tab. This part is important, since you don't want to finish the job and wonder where the wires go. Next, pull the sparkplugs and carefully observe the condition of each plug. Look for oil fouling, wet plugs, WHITE plug insulators, worn plugs and damaged plugs. If the center insulator (the part that goes INSIDE the cylinder) is too white, it's an indication that the engine is running too lean and you could be causing damage to valves or pistons. If the plug is black and oily, it indicates that the cylinder is worn and oil is leaking past the rings or valve stem seals. If the sparkplug is wet with fuel, it's an indicator that the cylinder is FLOODED, meaning that somehow there is too much fuel being delivered, and a wet sparkplug cannot properly ignite the fuel in the cylinder. If the plugs all check out ok, use a compression gauge while your friend again tries to start the engine. Since there are no plugs in the cylinders, the engine won't start, but you're measuring the pressure that is built up in the cylinders. Generally, it should be around 90 PSI, but that number may be different for different engines. Generally, the number should be withing 5 to 10 PSI for each cylinder. A variance of more than 15 PSI indicates burned valves or worn rings. If ALL cylinders are low, (below 70 PSI) it's a good indication that the camshaft is no longer timed properly. That is caused by a slipped timing belt or timing chain.
  • THE 'KEY' COULD BE THE ANSWER. Well... some recent cars/vans have a immobilizer embedded. Such a car/van can only be started with an original key i.e. a key which comes with the cars and which has a electronic chip. So if you have recently cut a key from any roadside key-cutter and your car turns using this key but the engine fails to fire it could be the immobilising safety device in your car that's preventing it from starting. This is a good safety feature!

Another ting to try is removing the spark plugs (make sure you re- cord which wires go where) and pro vidind that the engine isn't flooded

spray some starting fluid(avalible at auto parts stores) in the hol where the spark plug was and put the spark plugs back in and try to start it if it begins to start but then shuts off

your problem is proboly fuel delivery, but if the engine is flooded take out the plugs and let it sitt for a while to dry out.

There is a little sprocket in your strarter looks like a cog with teeth on in, but the teeth can chip or break if the metal is cheap which in most cars now days it is. So the starter is turning but the missing teeth are not connecting to make a spark keep turning it samething happened to my Buick but i didnt gte is fixed rite away because if you keep cranking evetually the teeth will catch and ignite

a motor needs fuel/ spark / air / compression all at the correct time check sources of all from major parts to minor (id start with anything electrical) you should find the problem

- One other thing that could possibly have gone bad is the main relay, its a $50 part that gives the fuel pump power when the key is on, so bad relay, no power to pump, no gas, no start.

-you need, spark, compression and a proper fuel mixture for your car to start. Generally, the compression gives way over time, so it is the last thing you should suspect if this problem appeared overnight. First thing you should try is to turn the key to the "on" position (not the crank start position). You should hear an electronic hum coming from the fuel tank. If you don't hear the hum, check the fuel pump relay or fuse. If those are fine, the fuel pump is suspect. If you do hear the hum, your fuel pump is working fine. Check for fuel pressure in the fuel line. It should look like a valve like the one you might find on a bicycle tire. If fuel sprays out, your fuel pressure is fine, which means you can suspect the spark. The battery is not the culprit (it turned the starter remember). Check for spark as noted above. If you don't get spark, check spark from the coil. Depending on the model and technology of your car, you can then suspect the ignition control module (esp. if it was a hot day) , as well as the distributor and all its components like the rotor and distributor cap.

By the way, most, if not all new cars have an inertia trip switch. Mine is under the dash. .

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Fuel and Engines
Fuel and Fuel Intake

Can petrol alto car be converted in to diesel car?

Not without a complete engine change

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Fuel and Engines
Chemistry

What is a method of separation used to clean the air going into a car engine?

a paper air filter is pretty typical for most cars

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Cars & Vehicles
Fuel and Engines

Which brand-name for premium gasoline should you use for a car that is a V6 and not a performance V8?

There are many different opinions about what gasoline to use for a car that is a V6 and not a performance V8. Here are some of them:

  • Most turbocharged or other vehicles requiring higher octane fuel will lose power and economy as part of the computer's strategy for using the low-octane fuel safely. Also note that many Nissan vehicles will turn on the check engine light when they use low octane fuel.
  • I have used Chevron gasoline for many years. There is a notable difference in warm up time, idle smoothness, off the line response, performance at speed and of course passing power. I occasionally fill up with an off brand or even a name brand other than Chevron and I can always tell the difference.
  • Few V-8's and even fewer 6's require premium gas.

You gain NO additional power using premium. Octane is simply a measure of the fuels resistance to knock (also known as pre-ignition).

The higher the compression of the engine, the higher octane it needs to avoid "pinging". If your engine doesn't ping under heavy acceleration on regular (87) gas, you don't need anything with higher octane.

Plus, cars made in the last 5 years adjust the timing automatically if pinging is detected....so even when the manufacturer might recommend mid or high octane, you won't hurt the car using a lower grade...you'll just lose a little bit of power.

Not a performance vehicle who cares use any.

  • A high octane gas is important to put in your car about once a month though or it will hurt the car because of a water build up from the lower quality gas. also bp gas has been proven iin scientific tesing to be the best quality gas you can buy in america.
  • All great facts, but to get to the point. Higher (top end) cars use premium gas because the compression ratio is higher, this helps burn more fuel at a higher flash pont (temperature gasoline ignites). Therfore, using premium gas in a V6 or V8 differs depending on the make and model of the vehicle. Oh yeah, and putting 92 octaine gas in a vehicle not recommended for will not increase power.
  • Premium gas was specified in the question, so octane is not the issue. Major brand premium gasolines are virtually identical, so there is no advantage in using one brand over the others. There isn't enough data to confirm the statements about BP and Chevron.

I have a Honda Accord and it is a V6. I always go to Chevron. Do not go to a Costco, Valero, Exxon, or anything other than a Chrevron. If you don`t go to Chevron, sometimes your car might not be able to start and you will have to rev it a little bit.

  • 7/23/09 I saw a ABC documentary why gasoline price changes so fast. In this documentary, a gasoline wholesaler said that since Federal Regulation dictates how gasoline is formulated, all gasolines brands are the same. He sells to Shell, Cheveron, Valero, etc. All big name tankers and small name tankers buy gasoline from him. I buy the cheapest and every two month put a can of BG product to keep fuel injectors clean. By the way, gas prices changes quickly due to wall street speculators.

Furthermore according to the documentary the only difference in gas quality is the money an individual gas company will spent to convince you of the difference. Gas is a lot like tires if you put 300$ tires on a car or $3000 tires on a car a person who knows nothing about tires will never know the feeling/ difference the quality should have made.

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Fuel and Engines
Spark Plugs and Wires
Chevy Blazer
Chevy Blazer S-10

How do you fix a multiple cylinder misfire?

Here are the best 10 answers1My P0300 code has been determined to be caused by low compression in 2 cylinders: due to burnt valves. 2I had this same problem. I ended up having a new cat put on along with an engine modual and 3 coils!!! It is a lot cheaper to take it the shop trust me!!! I learned a very important (expensive) lesson...300 dollars for everything! Cat coils and engine module were under warranty on my 99 Pontiac firebird good thing I purchased that extended warranty! 3I have a '97 Chevy Venture with the p300 code and am a serious do-it-yourselfer. I changed the obvious plugs, wires, fuel filter, and checked the obvious fuel pressure coil primary and secondary pulled the injectors and looked at them and checked them.Knowing this wasnt the problem i still checked. But I suspected a blown headgasket in between the cylinders wich "wont cause overheating" for the real novioces. well wanting to confirm this i took it to the dealer for conformation and my advise don't take it. They told me everything under the sun was causing it so lets replace one thing at a time. Well my point is this code can be a little nightmare so check cylinder pressure with a gauge before spending lots of money and keep your calm. 4Well i finally took it in to have a new engine put in i said screw the head gasket cause the motor had to come out anyway and had 175000 on the odometer so it was probly on its way out anyway and walla' my random misfire is gone and the thing runs like a top total bill 2600 dollars with a 3yr unlimited warranty by 4star engine i figured it was the head gasket or it may even have been leaking valves but its fixed and no new car payments for years to come. Sucked coming up with the money but it made sense to me since the van was in great shape. 5well,i have i 96 camaro v-6--5 speed--i have had a baaaaad skip for quite a while --and since i am a do it myselfer--no way was i taking it to the shop.first put in new plugs and plug wires--if it is still skipping--by that i mean sluggish runs like on 4 cylinders--your check engine light is probably on--if your car is distributorless---(no distributor)-------it should have 3(6 Cyl.) coil packs --notice one end of spark plug wire goes to the spark plug and the other end goes to the coil pack--(one coil pack for 2 cylinders)--for my camaro--they were like 21.00 dollars each at autozone--replace all of them --it is very easy --unplug the spark plug wires from them one at a time---use some masking tape wrap around each plug wire with the number that corresponds to it on your coil pack--that way you put the wires back in the right order--draw a diagram also--just to be safe--(when you buy your new coil pack it wont have any numbers cause they are all the same part just put your wires back like they were--this is a must--to change the coil packs --it is just 2 screws--take them out pull up on the coil pack--and put the new one down and screw them down---i bet this will fix your problem 6My '97 Firebird had a code 300 for years. The SES light would come on and off, on and off for days at a time. Everyone said it was all my performance modifications and the "Hot Cam" making it come on. It turned out I had a defective computer all this time. Changed computers- problem fixed thanks to PCMforless! 7I had P0300 code on my 97 Camaro Z28 AFTER replacing ignition wires and found it was caused by damaged ignition wires due to incorrect routing of the wires themselves. There are two areas where the wires can be damaged very easily. One is where the wires go behind the alternator bracket on the passenger side of the engine. I had completely removed my alternator bracket to replace the spark plugs (they are NOT easy on the LT1). When I routed the new ignition wires I was in a hurry and didnt make sure they were out of the way when I reinstalled the alternator braket. They got badly pinched and the engine only ran a few hours before I started getting misfire error codes and REALLY bad performance. The second area where damage is likely is near the exhaust manifolds due to their close proximity to the wires. I suggest getting some heavy duty ty-wraps that can handle high temperature and carefully bundling and routing all the ignition wires away from trouble areas when you are replacing wires. The factory ignition wire guides and support brackets are difficult to remove and reattach to with the engine in the car. I completely removed my wire guides and brackets and ty-wrapped the ignition wireshem to the engine block and wiring harness making SURE they were routed as far away from heat and moving parts as possible. My P0300 code is gone and the car runs great now. 8This can be a challenging code to troubleshoot. My experience has lead to different conclusions. Like above, I have seen worn plugs, bad wires bad coil packs, bad ignition modules, bad ECMs, bad fuel injectors. Rarley a bad headgasket. The most common ones seem to be on the 3.1 engines. Take it to an independent repair shop and try a fuel injection cleaning. the fuel additives won't resolve it as they remove the waxes, but don't really clean the injectors. A professional cleaning involves disconnecting the fule pump and running the motor on this cleaner. I have seen it resolve PO300 codes, make cars run incredibly better or also do nothing. 9replace the camshaft, The lobes are flat. 101999 Chev. Lumina.Could not climb a hill and lacking power and pep.Scanner reveals code PO300--Misfiring on all cylinders.Too involved to try fix my self so took it to GM dealer.My heart sank when they told me" TRACED TO EXCESSIVE EXHAUSTPRESSURE 9psi @ 2000RPM.--Needs CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACED."

I saw many hundreds $$$ flying out the window.

My spirits soared when the mechanic told me ' IT IS UNDER WARRANTY'.

Picked up car and NO CHARGE it was.

It seems that emmission parts are warranted for 7 years in Canadaand I guess in US.

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Cars & Vehicles
Fuel and Engines
Fuel and Fuel Intake

The Working fluid in an diesel engine?

The working fluid in an internal combustion engine like a diesel would simply be the air it sucks in and passes out in the exhaust.

247248249
Cars & Vehicles
American Cars
Fuel and Engines

How bad is revving your engine in neutral?

As long as the engine is at full operating temperature and you do not rev it beyond the red line, you more than likely will do no damage, but it is still not a good idea. Revving a cold engine will do damage for sure.

Revving the engine can cause a sudden drop in oil pressure, cause the engine to over heat and it doesn't help the main crankshaft bearings any good as they and meant to be revved under a load(in gear).

219220221
Home & Garden
Fuel and Engines

Can you mix fuel oil with kerosene?

Yes you can as long as there is no fire near you so you don't kill yourself. Lol sorry it's not funny .

229230231
Cars & Vehicles
Fuel and Engines
Repossession

How do you know if a car's engine is in good shape?

1-Compression test. This tests the state of the 'bottom half' of the engine and the valves and seats. All cylinders should should be within 5 psi, and near the high end of spec. If your compression gauge is old or of poor quality or the vehicle battery is suspect, look only for equality between cylinders, not comparison to spec.

2-Running compression test. Similar to above, but also identifies the presence of many valvetrain problems such as cam wear and valve lash that a regular compression test will not pick up on. The regular test is still important though because the running test is less sensitive to effects of worn rings and cylinder walls.

3-Compare oil pressure at idle to manufacturer's specification.

4-Visually look for external leaks, especially at gaskets and freeze plugs.

5-Visually look for oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil pan.

6-Use a non-contact thermometer to measure the temperature of engine block and head(s) at multiple locations after the engine has been idling for several minutes. The head(s) should have a consistent temperature, and the block should also have a consistent (not the same as heads though) temperature.

If all of the above check out okay, the engine is good.

If you want to know if the car is in good shape(engine), and not mess with it too much, just go to your local Autozone, or checker, and purchase a vacuum/fuel pump gauge. Its about 20.00 to 25.00 and very easy to use. The guage has a long vac. line and some fittingsattached to it. All you do is connect the vac. gauge to any vac port on the intake manifold while the car is warmed up and running. If your vac. reads from about -15 to -20 you have a sound engine. it takes about 10 mins. and you'll know.Good Luck, Mrkhh

If it sounds good and runs good, chances are it is good. Check the oil level regularly. If the engine is excessively worn, it will consume oil. Usually this is also accompanied by bluish-gray smoke from the exhaust (oil getting past worn piston rings or valve guides into the cylinders and burning along with the fuel). Also check for oil leaks. Test drive the vehicle and check oil pressure. Most cars the oil pressure gauge should read halfway or above with the engine running and at normal operating temperature. Mileage is not the main determinant of engine condition. Engines that have had regular oil changes and have been properly maintained are likely to give reliable service for many thousands of miles. Poorly maintained engines may need an overhaul very early in their lives. You may also have a compression test done at a local shop or do it yourself simple pressure guage and that will give you a good reading on engine compression lets you know if you have good compression also lets you know if you got leaks.

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Auto Parts and Repairs
Fuel and Engines
Fuel Pumps
Chevy Silverado

Someone put an egg in my gas tank do I need to drop the gas tank?

Yes, get that thing out of there. It's gonna ruin your engine.

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