How far you can drive “on empty,” or when the low fuel light illuminates, is typically somewhere between 25 and 108 miles, according to a chart from car repair and maintenance company YourMechanic. The chart looks at the top 50 selling vehicles in the U.S. in 2015, and for each of them, it details how much fuel is left when the gas light goes on and roughly how many miles you can drive without running totally dry.
How far your fumes will take you depends on several factors, including your driving habits, the road conditions, and what type of car you have. It’s important to note that although sometimes driving on empty is a necessity, it should not be made a habit, as it can do serious damage to your vehicle by sending debris that rest near the bottom of the tank up through the fuel pump.
Intake, compression, power/combustion, exhaust.
Same as a standard SI (Spark Ignition)
CI (Combustion Ignition) is how diesel operates. They contain no spark plugs.
The compression heats the fuel to the point of SELF COMBUSTION .
I agree it is possible for the sluge to go into your oil pump and cause it plug up, but if you read on the back of the can it says if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it you need to take the oil pan off and clean all the excess sluge off, this will fix your problem with puging up your oil pump, unless it just happend to do it while your flushing your engine in the five min. another thig to stop this is to put a new oil filter on before you begin to flush, because your old filter most likely cant filter enough. Once the flush is done put another oil filter on#8I'd have to say the tranny fluid in the oil is the best idea so far. To prevent the problem I also agree on using synthetic oil. Use store brand synthetic if you're frugal. Basicly, if you need to use gumout, you've been abusing your engine anyway. Had a 4L Jeep and a 5L Chevy k1500 die after gumout clogged the small channels used to distribute the oil - so about 6-8k miles later, the valves were burning up and the engine started braking internal components. And that's with removing the oil pan on both, and changing the sump screen, oil filter, etc. #9You know I have been using the product for years . There are a couple of things to keep in mind . The main one is if this is not a routine thing then it will have to be flushed twice and the filter changed in between flushes . What happens is the flush itself doesn't ruin your engine the debre in your engine does . Everyone that has a problem after one flush is due to the engine is so nasty on the inside gunk disolves everything , but it is not drained out the oil pan . You can blame it on the flush or you can blame it on how many times you have missed an oil change at 3500 intervials . If you think changing the oil at every 3500 miles is all there is don't get me started on the air filter , breather filter , pcv valve , and fuel filter ! #10I've read everyone's answers and most of them seem to address that unless you have kept up the proper maintenance on your vehicle and that it's the sludge buildup that kills your engine and not the flush, are there any special care instructions written in the directions and if so shouldn't they perform these precautions at the service businesses when the service is being offered? Has anyone contacted a rep at the services corporate offices or Pennzoil-Quaker State company to confirm this? It just seems to me that there's allot of guessing going on as to why a few people have had egine problems after using the product. I personally have used the service after 80,000 miles on my Chevy pickup and have not had a problem since. #11Any "engine flush in a can" has the potential to cause problems. As others have said, the loosened sludge, carbon and particulate will only end up in the sump to cause problems later. (It will also break down the surface tension of the oil.) 10% of the old oil remains in an engine after an oil change. That 10% is in the casting cavities and the bottom of the sump.There is only one safe flush system which, unfortunately, is not available in the USA. Best solution for automobile owners-Buy a cheap oil, run it 500 miles and change the oil and filter. Do that 3 times and then go back to a good quality oil, either mineral or synthetic and use a good quality filter. #12I use kerosene. Drain a quart of old oil out and add 1 quart kero. in. Run at idle 20 mins. then drain. Next, pour 1 quart of oil in the engine with the oil pan plug off so the oil drains. That helps clear out the kero. and loose debris. Then do a reg. oil change, wait 1000 miles and change oil and filter again.
They dont, diesel engines are generally more reliable than gas engines, and alot simpler due to the fact that the entire ignition system found in gas-powered engines is deleted entirely from the diesel equation. (Diesel engines don't have spark plugs, they rely on compression to ignite the fuel, meaning: they sqeeze the diesel fuel so much that it explodes)
Most of the time a diesel has a hard time starting when its cool. When they have a hard time starting when hot, it is usually caused by the fuel running back into the tank. Check for a cracked fuel filter housing or a cracked low pressure fuel line. It is possible you have the wrong fuel filter. Install a top quality name brand filter like Wiks or Baldwin that has an anti bleed back valve in the filter.
Bad fuel or incorrect timing and/or weak spark or other component in secondary ignition system.
usually late ignition timing could cause this or an excessive amount of fuel in the exhaust system.
backfire can be caused by choke not shutting off completely, also could have a bad distributor cap, bad spark plugs, bad ignition condensor, bad plug leads, or to much fuel getting to carburetor system
Consider getting yourself a service manual as it contains many troubleshooting for your car. Comes very handy sometimes.
Can also be caused by crossed spark plug wires meaning they are not connected in the proper order
Listen to the Signs of the Car talking to you,
Is the Backfire coming from the Tailpipe area or the Engine Compartment area?
Signs of backfire can be caused Vacuum Leak, in and around the Intake Manifold Base Gasket areas, and the Carb. Base or Throttle Body Base, and in any of the many different
Vacuum hoses/lines depending on your make or model, "Use Caution with what you use to seek out the Vacuum leaks, as many aresol base products contain a petroleum base
which can cause severe flash fires,
( especially on and around HOT Engine Parts & Faulty or Loose Plug wires )
in Running Conditions.Always RememberSAFETY FIRST,You want to drive it after you fix it,"NOT look a pictures of its chard remains,in a Hospital Burn Ward."
Be Safe Now / Cruise Longer
A car backfires because unburned fuel is getting to the muffler. The heat of the exhause system causes the fuel to combust, thus a backfire. I have just been told that the rubber on my exhaust has split - could this be why the car would backfire? I have heard something about air getting into the exhaust could cause a backfire? back fire can be caused by different faults. first is to much fuel because of worn carburetter, or wrong adjusments on carburetter. choke sticking will cause backfire. timing be out of adjustment will cause backfire exhaust leak can cause backfire. bad spark plugs, or plug leads , distributer cap worn of cracked will cause backfire as for fuel in muffler, if it combusted in muffler , the muffler would split open it is not that. and i dont know of any rubber on an exhaust that would take the heat aexhaust manifold gaskets could be problem but if they were rubber they would melt \ is it good or bad to have backfire It can also be done with intentional modification, such as done in ''Keeping Up Appearances'' British sitcom. A fuel line and an oxidizer line are added to the muffler with a manual rubber bulb pump added to the line as the ''backfire button.'' At a point before entering the muffler, the lines have a pair of backflow valves to prevent the flame from racing into the mixture tanks. Squeezing the bulbs dispense a mixture of pure alcohol and an oxidizer into the muffler to create a reaction. For Onslow's car in the TV programme, copier toner was squirted in the tailpipe for a heavy soot effect on the backfire command. Having a car backfire can shake off any parts that aren't bolted completely, and can cause the engine to stall because the pressure of the backfire can temporarily disrupt the exhaust release from the engine. Besides, it would spook horses, cows, or anyone not used to loud noises. So having the car backfire down a Harlem road won't have the same effect, as a car backfiring down a rural city road.
More than likely you will have to remove the head but, you can try injecting a product such as Seafoam or Techron into the engine through a vacuum hose and it may or may not work. Follow the directions to the letter. I have seen it work but I have also seen it fail to help. Worth a try for the $6 it will cost to try.
Distillation, Gasoline has a lower boiling-point, so it will separate-out first.
Same as any internal combustion engine - it overheats and wears out.
Oil provides many protections to an engine. While it can cause over-heating, there are many other things that happen. If your diesel engine uses Huey style injection it uses oil pressure and viscosity as a reference for injection pressure. If your oil pressure or quality is low less fuel is injected into the cylinder for each combustion event. It's a good indicator that you need to check your oil, but it's mostly inconvenient. Oil, when pressurized inside your engine provides a cushion between the crank journals and the main bearings (block), Rod bearings and crank, cam and block, lifters and block, lifters and cam, valve and guide, the list goes on. If your engine runs low enough on oil to prevent the oil pump pick-up from drawing oil from the pan something is going to miss out on lubrication. Depending on what style engine you have (priority main-oiling or no) the damage can get severe very quickly. If you had it a quart low I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just top it off. If your stick was dry the last time you checked it you might be in trouble.
Absolutely! Turbocharging gasoline engines is a great way to make more power or better fuel economy, depending on the way the turbo is setup.
The intake valve is usually larger.
Most difference in the Dimensions. Bigger ones are two stroke with cross head. Coolant and lubrication oil are cooled by see water normally. If You mean fuel than marine diesel fuel has lower standard for sulfur contents and cleanness. There is special fuel treatment system on board like settling tanks, purifiers, fine filters etc
First, consider getting yourself a factory service manual for your vehicle as it often has the correct troubleshooting information for your vehicle. It really comes very handy when the car starts having problems.
What is the temp gauge reading? Does it overheat? Sweet smelling smoke out of the exhaust pipe is actually steam from water leaking into the cylinders and boiling off. You most likely have a blown head gasket. This is even more likely if the car has severely overheated due to a recent cooling system failure, i.e. broken water hose, bad water pump, hole in the radiator or heater core, etc. Also check for water in the oil, which shows up as a thick yellow goo (the technical term) on the dipstick or oil cap. A mechanic can perform a leakdown test to determine if there is a leak. From the symptoms you described, this one seems like a no-brainer. You should have the head gasket replaced IMMEDIATELY. A broken head gasket can cause more problems. Water leaking into the cylinders can break starters and flywheels. Water in the oil can degrade the oil's lubrication properties to the point the motor can seize. Once the head gasket is replaced, check for any other cooling system problems that cause overheating or you may blow the new gasket.
It could also be worn piston rings if the motor has high mileage
I don't know about a " No Brainer", There are a variety of possibilities. Is the smoke coming out the tailpipe?, is it coming off the engine itself, coming from the engine compartment? Clearly, more information is needed to answer this question.
Could be oil leaking out onto the manifold. Look for oil leaking out of the engine. You may need to replace the gasket under the cylinder cover (takes about 15 mins).
Additionally, smoke from the tailpipe will be of 3 distinct colors. White smoke is a coolant leak, blue smoke is from oil burning, and black smoke is an overly rich fuel mixture.First, you need to be more specific about the kind of smoke and where it's coming from.The usual smoke complaint is from the tailpipe, and it's easily diagnosed simply by the color of the smoke.Black smoke indicates too rich of a mixture, on older vehicles this was almost always due to a stuck choke.Blue smoke is from worn rings, the oil is going past them and burning in the cylinders.White smoke is from coolant in the cylinders, and is actually steam since coolant doesn't burn. This is usually caused by a blown head gasket.If it's coming off the engine (under the hood), you have some sort of leak such as coolant or oil onto something hot such as your exhaust manifold.
White smoke = Coolant entering the combustion chamber. STOP driving this car until this is repaired or you will destroy this engine.
Black Smoke = Overly rich fuel/air mixture. Too much fuel not enough air. STOP driving until this is repaired or you will ruin the converter and O2 sensor and possible do other damage.
Blue Smoke = Engine is burning oil. Worn rings is normally the cause.
Here are more opinions and answers from other FAQ Farmers:
Another ting to try is removing the spark plugs (make sure you re- cord which wires go where) and pro vidind that the engine isn't flooded
spray some starting fluid(avalible at auto parts stores) in the hol where the spark plug was and put the spark plugs back in and try to start it if it begins to start but then shuts off
your problem is proboly fuel delivery, but if the engine is flooded take out the plugs and let it sitt for a while to dry out.
There is a little sprocket in your strarter looks like a cog with teeth on in, but the teeth can chip or break if the metal is cheap which in most cars now days it is. So the starter is turning but the missing teeth are not connecting to make a spark keep turning it samething happened to my Buick but i didnt gte is fixed rite away because if you keep cranking evetually the teeth will catch and ignite
a motor needs fuel/ spark / air / compression all at the correct time check sources of all from major parts to minor (id start with anything electrical) you should find the problem
- One other thing that could possibly have gone bad is the main relay, its a $50 part that gives the fuel pump power when the key is on, so bad relay, no power to pump, no gas, no start.
-you need, spark, compression and a proper fuel mixture for your car to start. Generally, the compression gives way over time, so it is the last thing you should suspect if this problem appeared overnight. First thing you should try is to turn the key to the "on" position (not the crank start position). You should hear an electronic hum coming from the fuel tank. If you don't hear the hum, check the fuel pump relay or fuse. If those are fine, the fuel pump is suspect. If you do hear the hum, your fuel pump is working fine. Check for fuel pressure in the fuel line. It should look like a valve like the one you might find on a bicycle tire. If fuel sprays out, your fuel pressure is fine, which means you can suspect the spark. The battery is not the culprit (it turned the starter remember). Check for spark as noted above. If you don't get spark, check spark from the coil. Depending on the model and technology of your car, you can then suspect the ignition control module (esp. if it was a hot day) , as well as the distributor and all its components like the rotor and distributor cap.
By the way, most, if not all new cars have an inertia trip switch. Mine is under the dash. .
Not without a complete engine change
a paper air filter is pretty typical for most cars
There are many different opinions about what gasoline to use for a car that is a V6 and not a performance V8. Here are some of them:
You gain NO additional power using premium. Octane is simply a measure of the fuels resistance to knock (also known as pre-ignition).
The higher the compression of the engine, the higher octane it needs to avoid "pinging". If your engine doesn't ping under heavy acceleration on regular (87) gas, you don't need anything with higher octane.
Plus, cars made in the last 5 years adjust the timing automatically if pinging is detected....so even when the manufacturer might recommend mid or high octane, you won't hurt the car using a lower grade...you'll just lose a little bit of power.
Not a performance vehicle who cares use any.
I have a Honda Accord and it is a V6. I always go to Chevron. Do not go to a Costco, Valero, Exxon, or anything other than a Chrevron. If you don`t go to Chevron, sometimes your car might not be able to start and you will have to rev it a little bit.
Furthermore according to the documentary the only difference in gas quality is the money an individual gas company will spent to convince you of the difference. Gas is a lot like tires if you put 300$ tires on a car or $3000 tires on a car a person who knows nothing about tires will never know the feeling/ difference the quality should have made.
I saw many hundreds $$$ flying out the window.
My spirits soared when the mechanic told me ' IT IS UNDER WARRANTY'.
Picked up car and NO CHARGE it was.
It seems that emmission parts are warranted for 7 years in Canadaand I guess in US.
The working fluid in an internal combustion engine like a diesel would simply be the air it sucks in and passes out in the exhaust.
As long as the engine is at full operating temperature and you do not rev it beyond the red line, you more than likely will do no damage, but it is still not a good idea. Revving a cold engine will do damage for sure.
Revving the engine can cause a sudden drop in oil pressure, cause the engine to over heat and it doesn't help the main crankshaft bearings any good as they and meant to be revved under a load(in gear).
Yes you can as long as there is no fire near you so you don't kill yourself. Lol sorry it's not funny .
1-Compression test. This tests the state of the 'bottom half' of the engine and the valves and seats. All cylinders should should be within 5 psi, and near the high end of spec. If your compression gauge is old or of poor quality or the vehicle battery is suspect, look only for equality between cylinders, not comparison to spec.
2-Running compression test. Similar to above, but also identifies the presence of many valvetrain problems such as cam wear and valve lash that a regular compression test will not pick up on. The regular test is still important though because the running test is less sensitive to effects of worn rings and cylinder walls.
3-Compare oil pressure at idle to manufacturer's specification.
4-Visually look for external leaks, especially at gaskets and freeze plugs.
5-Visually look for oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil pan.
6-Use a non-contact thermometer to measure the temperature of engine block and head(s) at multiple locations after the engine has been idling for several minutes. The head(s) should have a consistent temperature, and the block should also have a consistent (not the same as heads though) temperature.
If all of the above check out okay, the engine is good.If you want to know if the car is in good shape(engine), and not mess with it too much, just go to your local Autozone, or checker, and purchase a vacuum/fuel pump gauge. Its about 20.00 to 25.00 and very easy to use. The guage has a long vac. line and some fittingsattached to it. All you do is connect the vac. gauge to any vac port on the intake manifold while the car is warmed up and running. If your vac. reads from about -15 to -20 you have a sound engine. it takes about 10 mins. and you'll know.Good Luck, Mrkhh
If it sounds good and runs good, chances are it is good. Check the oil level regularly. If the engine is excessively worn, it will consume oil. Usually this is also accompanied by bluish-gray smoke from the exhaust (oil getting past worn piston rings or valve guides into the cylinders and burning along with the fuel). Also check for oil leaks. Test drive the vehicle and check oil pressure. Most cars the oil pressure gauge should read halfway or above with the engine running and at normal operating temperature. Mileage is not the main determinant of engine condition. Engines that have had regular oil changes and have been properly maintained are likely to give reliable service for many thousands of miles. Poorly maintained engines may need an overhaul very early in their lives. You may also have a compression test done at a local shop or do it yourself simple pressure guage and that will give you a good reading on engine compression lets you know if you have good compression also lets you know if you got leaks.
Yes, get that thing out of there. It's gonna ruin your engine.
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