yes it is, this answer is coming form a certified Dodge diesel technician

I had the same problem. I had to get tough with them. I know this doesnt sound right but you need to use a bigger hammer! Break it loose by hitting the hubs. working it side to side until it clears the inside drum. The pads are grooved into the drum and holding on the outside lip. Good luck!

next to the oil pan (that big sqaure-ish pan on the bottom of the engine where the oil drain plug is), in front of the bellhousing . The easy way is to climb under the vehicle and look . you will see a cylindrical metal object about four inches in diameter, and eight inches long attached with a couple of bolts, to the forward side of the flywheel housing (bell housing). Looks like an electric motor....because it is one.

either the control head is bad or there is a blower motor resistor that is bad.

Pay about $600.00 or get the book. You have to remove crank shaft pulley, timing chain cover, very hard job.

You do not need to remove the crankshaft pulley to replace the water pump on a 3.4L v6.

If one wanted to remove the water pump housing/timing chain cover on this engine, then yes removal of the crankshaft pulley would be needed.

Maybe you are confusing this 3.4L with the 2.4L where as the water pump is driven by the timing chain.

This kind of repair at the mechanic wouldn't cost more than $100. It is a very easy job and the water pumps for these engines range from $10 - $30. It took me only 30 minutes to replace my water pump, and I'm only a hobbyist. I only paid $13.99 for my water pump.

I drive a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4L 3400 v6

The radio fuse for a 2004 Dodge Durango is in the main fuse box. It is almost directly in the middle of the box, right beside of relay cb1.

un bolt old one from exhaust pipe then unbolt it from the engine. Take it off and whne putting a new one on it is a good idea to change gasket and manifold bolts.

EDIT: I have a '94 Jeep Cherokee with the same Inline 6 4.0L engine as is in yours. With mine, I had to remove the intake manifold, you will probably have to do the same.

On the passenger side you must remove the air filter box. You will need a small arm to reach the light but it is possible. One of the reasons I will never buy another one. On the divers side it is much easier. Remove the air valve and you can reach the light. Good luck the first time. It is not an easy job. the manufacture has designed this to make you want to take it to the dealer to have this done.

I am not sure but if you find out PLEASE POST it here I am having the exact same problem and was looking for an answer also!!! It will start sometimes I have had it in the shop several times and it starts perfect for them almost everytime.. they have ran diagonistic test on it and it shows NOTHING is wrong I have gotten a new key with the same code in it (cost 47.00) not the problem, I put a new starter on it they told me that was the problem NOPE it still did it... I put a new battery in it NOPE.. New spark plugs NOPE.. New ignition switch NOPE... I have tried almost everything and still nothing!!! It has to be something simple but NO ONE can seem to find it ... I LOVE my car it is one of the BEST I have ever owned as far as a GREAT riding vehicle just this crazy security problem!!! THANK YOU

I had the EXACT same problems with my 1995 LeSabre. My mechanic disconnected my remote starter and the automatic door/trunk locks, and it starts up fine now--ALL THE TIME! I cannot use my remote starter anymore, and I have to unlock my doors and trunk with a key, but the car starts up perfectly every time! My repair bill was only $65.00!

I am currently having the same problem with my 95 LeSabre. I have been told to replace the ignition lock cylinder because the problem could be in the wires running to the VATS system from the ignition. I have also been told it could be the VATS system itself. Well I found a site that give you the ability to bypass the system!! I haven't tried it yet but think I'm going to. Here is the link:

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Here is another link to a you tube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM

I did the headlights in my 1989 Ram van 350 about a year ago. My memory is a tad faded, but I recall removing the small grill piece that surrounds the light assembly. It seemed to have quite a number of screws in it for what it is. Then the whole front of the light was visible, and I was able to remove the screws from the chrome frame around the sealed headlamp unit. The headlight just pops out at that point. Just be sure that the screws you remove are actually the ones that attach the frame to the headlamp mounting assembly, not the ones that shoot past the frame and allow one to re-aim the headlight. It's all pretty straightforward. I try to do the lights as a pair, so I won't be in there doing the other one before too long. (Then I keep the one that still works, in case I'm broke when one of the new ones burns out.) Don't be dazzled by all the blue light units at the store. Good old long-life halogen lamps are a great value, in my opinion.

The abs light is on because there is a problem with your anti lock brake system. Until the problem is repaired the light will remain on. If you go to your local auto parts store they can read the code(s) and advise you as to what needs to be done. If you purchase the parts to make the repair from them they won't charge you for the diagnose. Once the repair is done the light will reset itself.

check both heater hoses under the hood with engine at running temp. if only one hose is hot your heater core is restricted( try flushing it out),m low coolant will also cause no heat since the heat comes from the hot coolkant in the heater core. if both hoaes are hot chances are the blend air door in the interior heat unit is faulty or climate control is not calling for heat.

It holds 44 quarts.

remove the steering colum cover there is a pin type button you need to push in on the bottom of the ignition switch. press that and turn the cylinder at the same time. if you dont have a key or it is broke a screwdriver will work been there before.

The 4 pin connector should have 4 colored wires. They are: Yellow - Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal Green - Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal White - Chassis Ground Brown - Tail / License and Running Lights If you are matching a vehicle to a trailer, be sure to verify this with a test lamp or meter. Some folks make up their own rules, and the connector could be wired differently from the standard!

More tahn likely the clockspring needs replaced.

first of all if you have and internet connection try chiltons.com or haynes.com, maybe try a direct Mitsubishi website. googling it always provides real good sites :) Try looking on the underside of the hood. You can find the timing info and spark plug gap there too!

The AC in all years of Jeep Cherokees blows......it also sucks. Go figure... It takes a really good automotive engineer to create a system that is so subject to failure and so difficult to repair. Good luck to you !! answer: I have to assume you have a Grand Cherokee. If the blower motor is not coming on the most common failure is a poor connection at the blower resistor module (located under the dash on the right side close to the firewall) this usually causes the wiring terminals to overheat and melt damaging the wire terminals and blower resistor module. this condition is most common on models with dual zone a/c system. you will need a new blower resistor module and a wiring connector repair package (available at dealer)

The turn indicator flasher is actually a relay and for the 2000 up years its under the dash, to the left of the instrument panel. If you could look straight up, it will be within inches of the outside and you almost need to be an acrobat to change it. If you are towing things often, you may want to upgrade to a higher rated amp. From the factory, this is Green. It should be in the fuse box in the 2000 models. On 2001 and newer, it is under the driver's side dash, just above the data link connector. UNDER THE LEFT END OF INSTRUMENT PANEL, IN THE FUSE BLOCK, ON THE BACK OF JUNCTION BLOCK.

when you open your hood and you look on the valve cover you see on your left side of top of your cover a cable sticking out from a black piece that is the positioning sensor that cranksup the car.

follow the heater hose at the rear of the engine and you will find it.

Could be: Bad resistor Bad low speed relay Bad switch One winding in blower motor bad (has 2) Replace the blower motor resistor -$15 part - located under passenger side on heater core - takes 10 minutes DIY - or pay a mechanic $150, your choice.

It would be best to use the newer platinum plugs bosch makes a good plug

It would be best to use the newer platinum plugs bosch makes a good plug

White smoke is a sign of water going through your engine, and is normally caused by a leaking head gasket or cracked head. Check your coolant level. If it is low, find a good repair shop.