either take it to a tire shop and pay them to do it in about 15 minutes, or spend about 18 hours with two screw drivers trying to pry the tire off of the rim yourself
P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.
Multiple cylinder misfire.
see related questions below
P0740: A/T Torque Converter Clutch - No RPM Drop At Lockup
P0700: Automatic Transmission Control System Malfunction
pass side 2-4-6-8 driver side 1-3-5-7
You don't have to change the lock unless you are concerned that the person who stole your key is likely to steal the car. If this is a concern, either change the lock, get one of those steering wheel locks that also connects to the brake pedal, install a "hidden" ignition switch that will prevent the car from starting when in the off position , or just get good theft insurance
It is inside the transmission, on the valve body.
Trouble code P0700 means: Automatic Transmission Control System Malfunction
Changing the front brake pads is a relatively easy procedure.
First, loosen, but do not remove the lug nuts holding on the tire you are wishing to begin.
Second, place a wheel choke behind the back tire and jack up the front wheel you will be removing. Once jack up to where the tire can move without hitting the ground, place you support brackets under the vehicle and take the tire off. Once the tire is removed, lower the axle down onto the support. While you have the wheel off, I always take the opportunity to really scrub clean the inside of the rim. The brake dust makes a mess up there and car washes can never get it clean.
Third, there are two bolts which hold you caliper in place, they are on the back side and you can easily see them, as they are relatively long. Remove these and you will be able to "wiggle" you caliper assembly off of the rotor. Have a piece of wire of something to support the caliper, as you do not want it to hang by the brake fluid hose. That causes unnecessary wear.
Before moving onto the next step, I would have you consider replacing your rotors before getting this far into the job. They are relatively inexpensive and if your rotors are worn and uneven your new brake pads will not give you all the bite they were designed to.
Fourth, pop the pads out of the caliper and using a "C" clamp, depress the plunger back into its housing slowly. This forces the brake fluid back up the hose and prevents you from having to bleed the brakes.
Fifth, insert the new brake pads, replace the rotor if you have chosen to do so, and slide the assembly back into place on the rotor. Keeping in mind to make sure to hook your calipers securely against the notches they sit against.
Six, Reinsert the bolts holding the assembly in place.
Seven, Jack the axle up off of your support, and remove them from under the vehicle.
Eight, Put your tire back on and secure the lug nuts. Remember, alternate the tightening of them using "across the clock" pattern. Don't forget the wheel choke behind the back tire.
Now you are finished, take the truck out for a test drive at low speeds. Prior to moving out of your parking space, ensure you have pumped the brake pedal 5-6 times and that you have enough braking power. If you have any hesitation about it, DO NOT OPERATE THE VEHICLE! Jack the car back up and confirm that all steps were taken and everything is securely tightened.
This should take about 45-60 minutes your first time. Once you do it a couple times you will find that it takes longer to get the tools and everything together than the actual change over.
Not sure exactly what you mean by "air bleeds". To replace the thermostat, you just have to drain the fluid and then open the housing and take it out. To get to the housing bolts, you'll first have to disconnect the upper radiator hose, and then take off the alternator bracket that's in the way. What you might be talking about are the extra coolant drain plugs that are on the underside of the engine block. There are two bolts, one on each side, of the block that you can see clearly if you crawl underneath and look up with a flashlight. Once you take them out, if no coolant drains, poke carefully into them with a screwdriver to clear out any blockage or rust. On my vehicle, I wasn't ever able to take these plugs out. I tried a few times but they were so tight I just left them and flushed the system with a hose to get all the coolant I could out. If they haven't been removed since the engine was built, good luck, but I don't think they're necessary. They just let you drain the fluid in a controlled way instead of flushing it out with huge amounts of water.
4.8 us qts
The instrument cluster is also the body computer.
Either the upper or lower control arm will come loose and the tire will lay over, you will lose all steering, you will lose all braking, and look pretty stupid sitting on the road if you let it go very long.
If you have no external oiling source (such as an external oil cooler, oftentimes found on 4wd or heavy-duty fleet vehicles), and you do not have an aftermarket oil pan for performance purposes, then the typical 350 ci engine will hold 5 quarts of oil, including the contents of the filter.
I just finished changing mine!!! (it's a 2000 model, but the same as a '99) I had a squirrel that chewed through the wire's on the plug behind the headlight, so I had to replace that part of the harness. (The driver side light) I found this page trying to solve my problem but found no answers either. BUT I FIGURED IT OUT!!!
'nuf chit chat...lets get to business!
1)With the hood open, you will see a rubber strip along the inside of the headlight. That will simply come off carfully with your hands. There are four plastic "buttons" and one "tab" that it will slip off of. (removing the battery may be helpful for the driver side but I don't think is is absolutely necessary)
2)There are 3 bolts BEHIND the light bucket and framework and a plastic connector. I believe the size for the bolts is a 10mm socket. (You need a long extension for all) Two of them are on the inside-(closest to the radiator) & are visible if you get in there and look. The extension will fit in-between the light and the bumper to get the bottom one off.(DO NOT remove or loosen the tiny star nuts-barely visible between the lights themselves, those are only for the beam adjustment) The 3rd is on the bottom outside. This one is a little tricky, you must use a 1/4 inch ratchet with an extension and the smallest socket you can find to fit the bolt because there is a piece of metal in front of the bolt-head. This may require a little patience to get the socket down and over the bolt, but be careful not to brake the light.
3)Here is the last pain in the butt, it's a little plastic plug that I think is supposed to be a snap in/out type of connector-kind of like a ball and socket. You can see the pointed tip on the inside of the engine compartment. You should carefully pull out straight forward. Somehow I managed to get out the whole peice by squeezing and twisting the plastic piece and wiggling the light. Be careful not to break the connector, if you do the bolts will still hold the light, but you may get a little vibration/wobbly light when driving.
You should have the light assembly completely out now. (So of course on my job, I just reconnected my wire/plug and stuck it back together) To change out the assembly should be easy to see and figure out. You will have to be careful when unplugging the old plugs (little tabs that need to be manipulated) so they don't get damaged before you reconnect to your new headlight.
[edited to add] There is a very small torx screw in between the headlight and directional housing that holds the two units together that you nee to unscrew before they slip apart. I also found it easier to get at the bottom bolt of the headlight assembly from unde the fender using a ratcheting box wrench.
is included with timing belt service
I just replaced the water pump on my 1996 Bonneville with the 3800 engine. I'm not real experienced with working under the hood, but I managed to get it done in an hour or so with little trouble. You'll need a socket/ratchet set with an extension, some open-ended box wrenches, and it might help to have a special compound to put on the gasket of the new pump when you put it on. I can't offer a full list of steps in order (this was my first time and I had some help), but here are some tips to keep in mind:
-Make sure you have a clear diagram of the serpentine belt before you take it off. Your Bonneville user's manual (if you have one) should have it in there, otherwise you can draw a picture of it yourself before you remove it, or better yet, check a Chilton or Haynes manual at the library. This is important.
-On mine I also had to remove the starter to get at one of the bolts on the water pump.
-Once the old pump comes off, be ready for some water/fluid to drain out.
-Unless your model is different from mine, you shouldn't even need to get under the vehicle for the replacement.
-The pump I bought was $40; you might even find one for less.
-It may help to have an extra set of hands to put the belt back on at the end. By the way, this would be a good time to replace your belt if it needs it.
-You'll want to flush your coolant system once the replacement is done.
There are seals to be replaced but you have to know what you are doing.
Normally there is a repair kit available. You should go to the parts shop and ask for the repair kit.
Hey Chet==It is quite an involved operation as you need special tools and a front end alignment when through. Get a manual on your vehicle from Auto zone and it will have pictures and everything. GoodluckJoe
To do the job correctly, get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM which will help on the next repair.
There is no special procedure for replacing the water pump. You will have to remove the belts, fan at a minimum. To make the job easier it is recommended that you remove the radiator. It is also wise to service all consumable parts at that time with genuine Toyota parts: Hoses, coolant, thermostat & belts.
Read your owner's manual.
Today's vehicles use platinum tipped plugs. They are good for at least 100,000 miles unless they fail which would cause severe missing and a severe drop in fuel mileage. If you have regular service done, have the mechanic check them.
Not sure on a '94, but on a '90 w/ a 1.6 you just remove the pulley bolts on the water pump, take off the pulley and belt, remove the thermostat housing on the side of the water pump, and then remove the water pump bolts. After that you can take off the water pump.
its a big job. the timing belt drives the water pump. you have to drain the coolant, remove air filter hose to engine, remove fan an fan shroud, serpetine belt, alternator, remove the two front bolts to the a/c, remove harmonic balancer pulley. remove timing belt covers, loosen power steering pump so you can remove alternator ,set the timing then remove belt. then remove the water pump. you need a 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm an a 22mm an 24mm sockets both deep well and shallow and all those sizes in wrenches. a Phillips head screwdriver and something to hold the crank when you are trying to remove the bolt. that is a quick overview
You will need to buy the following items:
Wire Harness Adapter (Scosche is the brand, can be bought for less than $10 at WalMart next to the CD players)
Radio removal tool (2 U-Shaped wire tools to remove radio - about $4.99 at WalMart, again next to the CD players)
Removal of the factory radio
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable (Black)
2 Insert the radio removal tools into the 2 vertical (up and down) holes on each side of the stock radio and push until you feel them engage in the holes
3 Pull the tools to the sides ( <----- ------> ) and pull straight back at the same time. The radio should be far enough out of the dash for you to pull it out all the way by hand.
4 Unplug the antenna cable (Thick, round, black cable) and rest it aside.
5 Unplug the other two connectors and set aside.
Wiring the wire harness adapter
1 Each wire on the scosche adapter corresponds to a wire on the CD player harness. Each are color coded and the colors should match up with the colors on the CD player harness. Each wire should also have writing on it.
2 Connect all of the wires to the corresponding wires and either soldier the connections or use crimp on connectors (If either method is not available, twist the wires together and tape with electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.) Always cover the connections with plenty of electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.
The wiring is now ready for install
1 Insert the radio cable into the back of the CD player.
2 Insert the CD player harness into the back of the CD player.
3 Plug the scosche adapter into the connectors leading into the car.
4 Insert the CD player into the radio slot while being careful of the wiring.
5 Reconnect the negative battery cable (black)
6 Turn on the ignition and test all functions of the radio.
For any other questions, refer to www.contour.org...click on "Forums"
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