you can't. simple as that. but if i'm taking you up right and you are genuinely having problems with the immobiliser then i'd reccommend you use a second and last higher digit to sort the problem out for good. just say your code is 3545 don't enter it, but instead enter 3646 and you should here a click from the drivers side engine. thats it. it worked for me and i never had a problem since. by the way if you don't know the original keycode then you won't be able to up the second and last digit accordingly so will not work. hope this helps.
There is a tsb on the stabilizer bar links. Actually there are 2 the first one is if there is play in the link, try tightening it and the second is replace them if I remember right. Although not as profitable as a rack, it should be checked first before replacing that rack.AnswerI've had a similar problem which led to the half shaft being bad. If it's rear-wheel drive then exclude my comment AnswerI'm not familiar with your vehicle however i have fixed a similar problem in several cars ive owned if your wheel moves or pops a little then you hear the click or thump then look for where the steering column comes out of the firewall and connects to the shaft coming from the steering box there may be a joint htere that has a rubber type material that joins the two together this joint allows the column to be at a different angle than the lower shaft if the "rubber circle is worn out you will need to replace it. this will cause your steering wheel to move iwerd then you get the thump or it has a little slop in it and it thumps. there are two pins going from the upper shaft and two pins coming from the lower and the rubber circle joins them together it is common for these to wear out. AnswerI had a similar problem. The sound got worse as time went on. At first, before the clickig it was a "whirring" sound that increased as tire speed increased (like a tire wearing badly on one edge). Then it began to click in the turns; first just when turning one way; then the other. This is typical of the wear indications for a CV JOINT going bad. In my case, it was just on the right side. I had FIRESTONE fix it. For the longest time I thought I had bad tires; but it was the CV JOINT.
answer answer the bearings inside steering column,(behind steering wheel) are worn out. replace them soon or you will have to replace the steering shaft in column. bearing replacement will cost you about 60 bucks in a shop. shaft replacement will cost about 250 bucks just to buy the shaft, so don't let this problem get any worse
Noises can be difficult to pin point ---it is usually nesessary to hear them yourself---but another possibility is the bearing in the top of the strut mount could be worn out or dry so when you turn the steering wheel --while standing still--the strutt assembly moves eratically rather then smothly making a clicking sound--Put your hand on the strut tower while turning the wheel and see if you can feel it
The idler pulley is the tensioner for the serpentine belt. To loosen it, do the following... - Notice the bolt in the centre of the idler pulley. Find the appropriate socket. - Using your rachet (set to loosen) put the socket on the bolt so that the rachet handle is pointing towards the windsheild. - Push down on the rachet handle. The tensioner will give slack to the belt. (careful because it is under spring tension) - While holding the tensioner down slip the belt off. Gently allow the tensioner to spring back slowly until it stops.
Yes! Seats 8 , though the last row is somewhat more cramped than most minivans.
a) Turn off your SP 700 (DO NOT TURN IT BACK ON)
b) Now press the answer/end button for 7 seconds or longer, ONLY release the button when the blue tooth status Icon begins to flash and you hear the voice announcement: "pairing mode".
Guess i am old school,but why wait till you have to change them, it you get 60 to 70 thousand hum give me a break but for get me more important give your car a break, you wont be sorry you did. Not much help on the Question, but if you start on the front by pulling the wires off, and put the sparkplug wrench over the plug and turn counter clockwise you will have a idea how to do the other side......good luck Phil
low on gas maybe
First you make sure you have a diagram of how the belt is threaded (or check in section 6 of the owners manual)
Start the car and cut the wheels to the right..Shut it off
then take a ratchet with a breaker bar and lift up the tensioner pulley to release the tension.
Then after belt is loose remove the 2 fasteners that hold the wheel well protector on and remove it. This will provide access to the bolt at the bottom of the motor mount bracket ( it's shaped like a [ ).
This bolt feeds through a sleeve that when removed will provide the clearance needed to remove the belt.
Put a jack with a 2x4 on it under the oil pan (just touching, not lifting) to provide support should anything bad happen.
Then with an 11/16s socket remove the lower motor mount screw and spacer this is the only way to get the belt out......reverse procedure.Make sure the new belt is properly seated on the belt tracks.
The spacer is difficult to remove, so through the top is the easiest and perhaps adding a slight bevel to the outside edge and cleaning the ends may help with the reinstalling of the sleeve.
I just did this 2 days before updating this. Spray and wipe clean your tensioner pulley with a little brake cleaner. I also had to remove the tensioner pulley to make sure it spun freely.
To add to this great description:
No work will need to be done to the engine mount which you will see looking down from above. The engine mount is the black coil with a bolt through it, connected to large "fingers" that hold the engine. The bottom one of these "fingers" is the part that your belt will be stuck on when you try to remove it. This part is removable on it's own. As explained above, all the work you will need to do will be done from behind the wheel well panel. Once you've removed the nut described, you will then remove the bolt that it was on. The bolt, or screw, has an end that is workable with a ratchet. This bolt will come all the way out and allow you to remove the spacer described above, with some prying, and allow you to remove the belt.
check the wiring for the turn signal, and check the fuse also. if anything bring it to a mechanic, or dealer and have them check it out. also, see if there is any recalls on it. just search for _(car name)_ recalls and you should find a place listing them.
Make sure the bulb socket fits tight in the back of the lense.Make sure the bulb fits tight in the socket.Vibration can cause damage to the bulb if these aren't tight.Also look inside the socket.You will see a couple of contact points for the bulb.Make sure they are not burnt or melted.This can cause too much electrical resistance and damage the bulbs. And make sure the bulbs are dry,no water leakage into the lense or socket.Try not to touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers.The oil from your hand can cause "hot spots" and damage the bulb.
And don't buy light bulbs from WAL-MART. They are no good, nor are autozone ones.
Moisture may be getting into the assy. This will cause a short lived bulb.
If you have all wheel drive a previous posting said to totally replace the fluid you will need 4 bottles of fluid (2 litre).
Mine was a 2007 with 3.5l engine with AWD and it took 6 quarts of Dextron VI.
One of your bulbs(front or rear) are out on the left.AnswerIt could be because the light on the left is already burnt or is about to burn out. Answerthe wire/connector became disconnected on my 10 yr old honda.
It is most likely dodgy connections between the rear light units and the connector blocks. Disconnect the connector blocks and use a small screw driver to bend the pins so the there is more pressure between the two connecting surfaces. Use some emery paper to give the connections all a good clean. That should fix it.
This is Fuse 32 under the hood in the fuse box. I had a problem with this fuse as well. I don't smoke so didn't care when I first realized my lighter didn't work, but my check engine light came on and when I took it to get the engine code read, the part they connect to under the dash (ODBII) would not give them a code. I left the store not knowing why my check engine light was on and annoyed there was another problem to fix. After a few hours of troubleshooting with my Dad, we figured out the same fuse that controls the lighters is the same one that powers the OBDII system, and Onstar as well. I hope that info helps someone else. here's the 2004 owners manual http://www.mediafire.com/?xgh2ucexzld Replacing fuse 32 fixed my front cigarette lighter problem as well. I have a 2005 Buick Rendezvous. The fuses are numbered in the owners manual. This fuse is in the fuse box under the hood; not at the passenger side compartment. It is a yellow 20 amp fuse in the middle left area of the fuse box.
Follow the diagram on the radiator support for correct belt routing. To replace the belt you simply swing the belt tensior away from the belt to relax the belt, slip the belt off of the nearest pulley, reroute the new belt in reverse order. the diagram under the hood will direct the proper routing, the belt tensioner, if you aren't familiar with them, is a free-wheeling pulley normally mounted on a spring-loaded bracket that will swing with pressure toward the belt until the belt is released from the pulley, don't confuse the tensioner with the idler pulley, the idler pulley only spins, it doesn't swing to provide tensionTo be more specific in how you actually do this, note that the tension wheel at the end of the tensioner arm DOES NOT HAVE A NUT ON IT. Don't mistakenly put a socket on the bolt at the top which attaches the tension assembly to the engine or you will potentially cause a problem that will be difficult to fix!
If you carefully fell down in the very tight space where the groved pulley is you'll find a 3/8" rectangular hole. This is where you inset the tool to rotate the tension pulley away from the belt. The problem is there is not much space to work in and you will need quite a bit of leverage to move the arm. I strongly suggest using a tool made for this purpose such as the Lisle 59000 ratcheting serpentine tool or similar (check Amazon for a range of tools). You need the two piece tool because you can change the angle to allow the 3/8" drive to fit the square hold in the tensioner arm and at the same time clear the wiring harness that crosses over the engine. The proper angle is going to look something like a backwards "L" at about 120 degrees instead of 90. You will need the full travel of the lever/wrench from the wiring crossover to the firewall to get the new belt on.
If you are careful you can relax the tensioner and leave the wrench in place while taking the old belt off and placing the new belt. Just realize that it is a narrow space and you'll have to reach down and turn the belt sideways to get the old one off and the new one in. (There also an electrical plug sticking out the side of the windshield washer pump that you have to be care of.)
One person can get the old belt off easily once you know how to place the tension tool. However, you will definitely need another hand to put tension on the tool while you hold the slack on the belt with one hand to keep it from coming off the pulleys and use the other hand to slip the belt over the alternator which should be the last pulley you wrap the belt around. A good small flashlight will help you see down into the narrow space to fit the belt of the large pulley at the bottom. Most of the others you will have to place by feel.
You really need the special tool for this job on the Rendezvous as a regular socket wrench is too short for the needed leverage and the standard breaker bar is too long to clear the braces and wiring harness. An 18" - 3/8" ratchet wrench might work, but the correct tool makes it a lot easier.
It controls nothing. It sends a signal to the ECU based on the Ait Intake Temperture. The ECU uses this to determine the best fuel/air mixture.
I purchased the bearings and had my repair man do it. Very reasonable about $200
On some cars the covers are held on with the lug nuts.
on all hondas from 1986 and newer, if equipped with factory hub caps, they are held on by the lug nuts with black plastic retainer clips.
fpmp ACTUALLY stands for "Frontal Peak of Motor Potential"
try the12volt.com i know for a fact thay have one Try http://www.ahdol.com/ for the diagram.
Try ignition in "on" position engine not running accelerator to the floor 6 times On the dash there are 2 buttons one says mode the other says set. Press mode until you get to oil life ten hold down set until it resets.
the older freon-very expensive. have it flushed and retro fitted with the new R134A... you can do it yourself-buy a refresh kit at WalMart..about $30.oo Now for the correct answer. There is only one kind of FREON. It is the brand of R-12 Refrigerant made by Dupont. What you need to do to avoid spending $100-$150 per pound is retrofit it to an R-134A system. Production of R-12 was ended on Dec. 31, 1995 since it destroyed the ozone layer. However R-134A will be done sometime around 2009 since it is a green house gas (global warming). By the way, if you want to avoid a $32,500 dollar fine for not having a license to work on refrigeration systems, pick up the EPA section 609 test book. The test fee is $15.00. Well worth the test fee compared to fine or 5 years in jail. LOL
you need to take the motor mount off to change the belt, you can do this by placing a jack and a block of wood under you engine and ever so slightly jacking up to take the pressure off the engine, you need to be carefull or you will crack the oil pn trust me i learned the hard way, take it to the dealer, i will never do it agin.
How in the H### designed this system where you have to raise and lower the engin just to change a fan belt. THEY SHOULD BE SHOT. Please forgive my comments. I have never heard of such a thing just to change a fan belt. But I am right in the middle of it so I am screwed because I just do not have the tools to raise the engin. So tommrow it g's to the shop.
If it is a 4 cylinder 2.4L, it is quite easy to do with a wrench and a bar. Rotate the tensioner bolt counterclockwise and the tension will be released. Slip off the belt and slip on a new one.
34 mm (or 1 5/16")
I don't know if your 96 is the same as mine, but I just did this job on a 95 Corsica with 3.1 V6. On mine, I had to lower the engine to get at the bolt holding the tensioner on the engine.
(I used 15mm open ended wrench)
all the way up to 15 mmm engine mounting bolts.
1. Set rear brake and chock rear tires
2. Loosen lug nuts on passenger side front tire.
3. Lift and support front of car on jack stands. I recommend placing them beneath front tires, under the jack notches, at the lowest heights.
4. Remove tire and mud guard(s) to expose the lower pulley assembly. You should be able to see the front crank shaft pulley wheel with the tensioner assembly located to the left.
5. Loosen the serpentine belt and slip it off of the alternator. Leave the belt on the car unless it absolutely needs replacement (A separate job that possibly requires removing a different set of bolts and mounts than what is described in step 9).
6. Use hydraulic service jack with sufficient lift (despite the fact that the car is already on jacks) and support to reach the oil pan, raise the engine 1-2 inches, and, most importantly, support the engine while you lower it in step 10. I used a $70 3-ton service jack from Wal-Mart. Anything lighter and cheaper probably won't work.
7. Place plywood between the jack head and the oil pan and raise the engine 1-2 inches in order to relieve pressure of engine mounting bolts.
8. Wedge a wood 2x4 (approx. 2' long) behind the alternater. This will allow better access to the tensioner bolt by keeping the engine from rolling towards the firewall during step 10, and it can be used as a pry bar to help realine the these bolt holes during reassembly.
9. Remove the three 15 mm bolts from the engine mounting bracket closest to the pulley assembly. On mine car there were two in back and one in front.
10. Slowly unscrew service jack handle and watch the passenger side of the engine lower. Let it down very slowley until you can see/get to the tensioner bolt. Retighten the jack handle. If you are not going to block the engine at this heigth and will only rely upon the jack to hold the engine while you replace the tensioner, DO NOT GET UNDER THE ENGINE FOR ANY REASON (you should not need to anyway).
11. You should now be able to see the tensioner bolt. I used standard socket with ratchet and 4" extender. If angle is extreme, you might need to use a swivle. Also, you might also need to unclip the coolant hose from its fender brackets and lower it or pull it back to improve access the the bolt.
12. Remove and replace tensioner.
13. Reroute serpentine belt around the tensioner and all other other pulleys except for the alternator.
14. Do reverse of steps 10 - 1. JOB COMPLETE.
Under the hood there is a 20 amp fuse, in the P/Out slot. I had the same problem and this is what solved it.
Had the same problem with the Dodge Intrepid. Fuse is in the box under the hood(!) (not in the in-side fuse panel).
check for loose change in the outlet, a lighter will blow the fuse, as well as a bad cell charger/radar detector cord. Open hood, remove "fuse box cover" and look for acc or some such fuse.
This happened to me, i think the fuse was under the hood and it was called int. something
2002 Dodge Neon Power Outlet Fuse is located in the power distribution center under the hood and next to the battery. Inside the cover of that box is a diagram showing location. I think it is the third from the fender.
The Buick Rendezvous can carry seven passengers when the third row seat is put into place, if not in place it can carry five passengers.
When Motorola released its Droid cell phone it had to get permission from which Hollywood director?
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