Antifreeze is used in internal combustion engines, and for many other heat transfer applications, such as electronics cooling and chillers for HVAC. Compounds are added to water to reduce the freezing point of the mixture to below the lowest temperature that the system is likely to be exposed to, and to inhibit corrosion in cooling systems which often contain a range of electrochemically incompatible metals (aluminum, cast iron, copper, lead solder, etc.). The term 'colligative agent' is to be preferred as, in warm climates, the benefit of these compounds is to increase the boiling point of the coolant, which should then be more properly referred to as 'anti-boil', and as anti-freeze decreases and increases both properties, respectively, 'colligative agent' more accurately describes the liquid. The term 'engine coolant' is widely used in industry.
The source of your problem is the rear differential. This is what allows one wheel to spin a greater or lesser number of times than its opposite counterpart. In my Rodeo (4wd V6 LSE) i have a limited slip differential. You can tell if you do too by checking the sticker under your hood on the driver's side. If it says G-80 or something like that (I can't quite remember) then you too have an LSD. What's important about a LSD is that one needs to add LSD additive to the Gear Oil when changing the differential fluid (should be done every 30k miles in the Rodeo). If your differential fluid (gear oil) is too old or missing the additive, the LSD can act up and cause a grinding noise during tight turns. Before you do anything else, change your differential fluid. It's easy, cheap, and my problem went away as soon as I did it. Hope this was some help.
An easier way to see if you have a limited slip is to lift both back tires and spin one tire, if the other tire turns the same way then you have a limited slip, if it turns the other way then you'll have an open differential.
You hav to remove the inst. cluster and them disassemble it (just remove the back plate) and you will find the bulb in there.
changing the spark plugs is pretty straight forward...I'll assume you're referring to the rear plugs...it is a tight squeeze...lol...A more useful answer is to undo the 2 dogbones holding the engine to the frame just above the radiator.......careful, the car will roll back!....be prepared with a crowbar or other lever hooked under the wishbone over the transmission........careful, don't bend or hit any of the cables in that area....very expensive!.....now lever the car forward and remove the dogbone bolts on the engine .....keep levering the car forward until you can put the removed bolt through the eyelet in the center of the dogbone......this will hold the engine away from the firewall and give you room to change the spark plugs......ps. always use spark plug wire pliers to remove the wires.
I take the alternator off. Then you can get to them
I believe that taking the alternator off is probably easier.I didn't do it that way though, for which I paid dearly. I did it by removing the dogbone bolts because some jerkoff here said to. The only thing he forgot to mention is how much pressure it takes to hold the engine forward, leave the dogbones attached, take off the alternator---you're better off. TRUST ME! It does give you alot more room to remove the dogbone bolts alllowing motor to shift ahead ,just use the second whole on the bracket that is on motor ,bolt up the dogbone to that whole which will hold the motor ahead.
On a 2002 Rendezvous it isn't necessary to remove the fuse box. You will have to unclip the fuse box then remove the bar. The fuse box is held on by a retaining clip attached by an 11mm screw. Metal bar over battery is attached by a 14mm hex screw behind the fuse box as well as by two 11mm hex screws attached to the front radiator frame.
Remove the battery terminals as you would any other car (positive first, then negative) and reverse the steps to put every thing back in. If the battery uses screw-on posts on the side facing the dashboard, those are 8mm posts and can be quite difficult to get at. There is also another 11mm screw holding down a retaining clip at the base of the battery. Battery comes out easiest diagonally toward the centerline of the car.
No need to mess with any bolts on the fuse box, Use a socket and extension for the bolt below the fuse box and the two 10mm bolts in front of the bar. then lif tup and slide out bar and loosen battery holddown bolt and remove after battery terminals are taken off.
On my 1999 Malibu 4 cyl the spark system in integrated into the engine cover. What I did... With the hood up and facing the engine. There is a wiring harnes connetor which plugs in to the rigth hand side. 1- Pull out the orange colored positive connector latch. 2- Pull of the black connector (make sure you push the plastic lock)
This is thge tricky part.. The cover must be removed straight up! ANy side force will break the watertight boots which connect the plugs themselves to the spark/emgine cover.
A- There are 4 bolts in the top of the cover holding it on. REmove these bolts (they are about 3 inches long) B- Move the fuel lines and anything else that might prevent you from lifting the cover straight up. I can't stress this enough. I broke mine the first time.
It comes of hard bu keep at it with slow steady force. You can wiggle it a little but not much. It will enevtually come off.
Once you remove the spark dist cover assembly you will see the plugs and have a good understyanding of what I'm talking about.
Make sure you blow out the holes and surrounding area before you remove the plugs to keep dirt out.
I usually loosen all the plugs and then use a short (6 inch) piece of 3/16 rubber hose to lift out the plugs. Push the end of the hose over the end of the spark plug. The plug goes fits snuggly into the hose and lift it out. Work sgood for re-installation as well.
Release the tensioner, and it will loosen the belt. Refer to the illstration under the hood of your car to put the new one on. If it does not have a picture, you must remember this, as it is not fun trying to figure it out on your own.
have 97' with seat heaters when they go out just carry a heating pad with you you'll have better luck. Other wise " no hot butt"
Depending on the vehicle, lets use a Chevrolet for an example, there is a 2 connecter plug going into the drier/accum. Make a jumper with a short piece of 14 gauge wire and 2 8mm end tips. Place a jumper lead into each hole on the harness side of the connecter. Start the car and carefully moniter pressure. It is possible to damage the compresser by running the system empty, wet or without oil, so make sure you have completed a vacuum test and have an empty system that will pull the freon and oil in quickly. Once you reach normal operating pressures disconnect your jumpers and reinstall the plug. The clutch should cycle on its own now.
use a flat head screw driver.
Try the,Install Doctors at www.installdr.com. Good site for finding stereo wiring diagrams. Hope this helps. Good luck
Sensors on the wheels determine if the wheels are moving at the approximate same speed. During braking, if one wheel locks up, the brakes will start to pulse, allowing the locked wheel or wheels to start turning again and return control of the steering. The same basic principle is used during accelleration. If one wheel starts to spin considerably faster than the others, the ignition is briefly disconnected, reducing the accelleration rate and allowing the tire to stop spinning. The two processes share the same wheel sensors as well as many other parts of the control system. Yes, the two are definitely related. It may be something as simple as a loose connection or something as complex as a faulty module. Unfortunately, the best way to determine what is wrong with the traction control would be to have the vehicle connected to a diagnostic unit that can check the brakes and onboard control computer. This can be done at an independent repair shop, and if the vehicle is out of warranty, it will probably be a bit expensive.
1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly.
2. Drain the coolant until the coolant level is below the thermostat.
3. Remove the crossover exhaust pipe.
4. Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
5. Remove the thermostat housing bolts and clean any sealer from the bolt threads.
6. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket.
7. Remove the thermostat.
8. Clean the mating surfaces.
1. Install the thermostat.
2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
5. Install the crossover exhaust pipe.
6. Install the air cleaner and duct assembly.
7. Fill the cooling system.
there are two fuse boxes, one in the center console with the access door on the passenger side footwell, the other is located under the hood on the far left hand side.
Three answers: 1. Remove the bulbs 2. You can't disable them 3. Remove the bulbs, paint them black, and put them back (this might be a fire hazard) ---------------------------- Actually, if you removed the bulb sockets from the wiring harness and then added a properly-sized resistor to the circuit, you might just be able to fool the car.
you have a fuse box under the hood behind the batteryand another located under the dash on the left side of the vehicle access is gained by snapping off the plastic cover. later models also have a small fuse box located behind the glove box. I hope that helps you out.
Bearing failure. Have the alternator tested. describe the whine - is it proportional to the speed? It oculd be because of the load and the charging - how is your battery condition? Did it do this before? Bearing failure. Have the alternator tested. describe the whine - is it proportional to the speed? It oculd be because of the load and the charging - how is your battery condition? Did it do this before?
The directions for changing a rear light bulb (turn signal, brake light, etc) are given in fairly clear language in the supplied vehicle manual.
However, for those without the manual.... ---> Insert Answer here.
Open the rear hatch and look at the side that needs replaced. Along the lens cover you will see 2 screws that hold the lens assembly to the rear hatch frame. Remove these and the lens assembly will come loose(make sure to have your bulb ready to put in) and be careful not to let it fall. The large connection will be the multi purpose light that is blown, remove this and pull bulb out of socket and replace.
No. It secures the headlight assembly in place. The headlight adjustments are the square slot crews that have a spring assembly around them.
what is the red and white wire
Take your car to your dealer and they will replace the trip computer for free under the warranty-- they did it for me
2006 Buick Rendezvous headlight bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement headlight bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).
Loose steering linkage, loose lower control arm bushings/struts, faulty shocks/struts.
Most likely to be loose swivel bearings.
Almost all Classic Range Rover steering shimmies can be traced back to loose swivel bearing preloads.
I've owned a 1988 RRC and a 1994 RRC LWB. I had the same shimmying at highway speed after hitting a bump. I replaced the OE Steering Dampener shock with a Bilstein and the problem was instantly solved. Prior to doing this the dealership wanted $5000 to fix this problem and their list of recommended fixes did not even include the steering dampener. RR dealers don't fix cars... they sell them.
Look right underneath the coolant hose where the radiator cap is. It should be located there.
the alternator serves as the tensioner in atleast the 2.0 engine. I had to replace my belt recently, it wasn't a very complicated matter. Loosen the lower alternator mounting bolt. Then take off the nut on the top left of the alternator. Finally loosen the bolt on the top of the alternator, (it faces you). You can then remove the bolt that runs through the alternator. This will allow you to remove the old belt and replace it.
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