Acura Integra

Biotin (Vitamin B7) is commonly recommended for nail health as it can help improve nail strength and prevent brittleness. Additionally, vitamins A, C, and E are important for healthy nails as they help promote overall nail health and growth. It's always best to ensure a balanced diet and consult a healthcare professional before starting any new supplements.

The squeaking noise may be due to the winter tires being stiffer and having different tread patterns than the previous all-season tires. This can cause friction and noise when driving slow or turning. It is also normal for winter tires to make more noise as they pick up speed, especially in cold temperatures. If the noise persists or worsens, it's recommended to have a professional mechanic inspect the tires for any issues.

To tighten the tension bolt on a 1991 Acura Integra, turn it clockwise. This will help apply tension to the belt and ensure it stays in place properly. Be sure to consult your vehicle's manual for specific instructions and torque specifications.

It sounds like the synchro rings in the transmission may be the issue. This problem will likely require a transmission rebuild or at least a repair to the affected parts. It's best to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic or transmission specialist for a proper diagnosis and repair.

To remove moisture from the headlights of a 1999 Acura Integra, you can try using a hairdryer on a low setting to dry out the inside. To prevent this from happening again, you can seal any cracks or gaps with silicone sealant and ensure that the headlight seals are intact and functioning properly.

The maintenance required light in a 1994 Acura Integra typically indicates that the vehicle is due for its regular maintenance checkup. It could be triggered by reaching a certain mileage interval or when the vehicle's onboard computer detects a need for servicing. It's recommended to consult the owner's manual for specific information on what maintenance is required at this time.

The clicking noise after letting go of the clutch in 1st gear could be due to a worn-out CV joint or axle. The clicking noise indicates that there may be damage to the joints or components, and continued driving in this condition could lead to more severe issues. It is recommended to have the vehicle inspected by a mechanic to diagnose the exact cause of the clicking noise and to prevent further damage.

Internal combustion engines need 3 things to start and run: air, fuel, and spark. First look over all of your fuses, to make sure none of them such as the fuel pump fuse, or the fusable link have burned out. Make sure your battery is not faulty, even a brand new battery could potentially be no good. Check the voltage with your volt or multi meter, it should read around 12.5v. Inspect the cables to and from the battery and alternator, but sure they are properly installed. Check your air induction system, make sure the air filter is nice and clean, no blockages. If your vehicle is equipped with a MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) make sure it is plugged in correctly. Likewise if your vehicle is equipped with a MAP (manifold absolute pressure sensor) be sure that is plugged in correctly. Visually inspect the entire length of the intake piping, for loose clamps, cracked piping, or gaps. Once you have completed that if your vehicle has a distributor system, remove the distributor cap and replace it if necessary. If you see any visible damage to the spark plug wires, or the age of them is unknown replace them. Next check your spak plugs for the correct gap as recommended by the manufacturer, be sure they are in good shape before reinstalling them. If the vehicle still will not start, try replacing your fuel filter. This is usually inline, though in some cases it is in the fuel tank itself. Once that is completed turn the key to the accessory position, in most vehicles you should hear the fuel pump turn on and prime the lines for starting. If you do, you should be in good shape at this point.

Open the rear hatch of the vehicle. At the edge of either brake light beside the hatch door weatherstrips are 2 plastic tabs. Pop each tab open with a flat head screwdriver to expose 2 brake light screws. Take these off, and the tail light comes rght out.

As you face the opening to the throttle body air intake, look to the left and you'll see a slotted brass adjustment screw (may be covered up by sealant). Turn clockwise to decrease idle speed. -- Ian

you can look under your ash tray..or open the trunk and look on the inside top...somewhere near the middle there may be a sticker with 2 5-digit codes...for mine there was only one choice because the other contained digits higher than 6 (you enter the code using the 6 preset buttons on your radio)

I found this site, http://installdr.com/InstallDocs/Acura/Integra.html, hope it helps.

Yes, it is possible to convert a manual into an automatic. I converted my automatic integra into a manual. It runs smooth as silk. To tell you the truth and not to discurage you, it would be easier to sell your manual or even trade it for somebodys automatic. There are many Integra lovers that would love to get their hands on a manual. If this is not possible here it goes. It will be even more expensive to convert to an automatic than it is to convert to a manual.Why? There are more electoronic components involved versus the manual.(sensors, shift lock, ect.) These are the parts: 1: Automatic transmission with sensors 2: torque converter and plate 3: automatic mid shaft(manual's is different) 4: shift cable 5: automatic pedal set (brake and gas) 6: automatic shifter complete with interlock switch and harness 7: automatic cluster 8: automatic ecu 9: automatic flywheel cover 10: rear transmission bracket and the lower transmission bracket( the manual ones is different ( trust me I know) You will also need the top transmission mount and the top transmission frame bracket that you can purchase at Acura for about $50. You will have to cut the manual off the frame, grind the welds down and weld the auto bracket in place. 11: You will need a wheel saw to cut away at the center console where the manual shifter is. you need to make room for the manual shifter and the shift cable 12: The center shift console needs to be changed as well. The manual one is smaller. 13: You need the auto flywheel plate bolts, the manual one are longer. 14: you need the automatic starter as well. 15: you need the automatic radiator, the manual one does not have the tranny oil cooler in it. 16: The only other thing brother is the electrical. You need to run two wires to the shift lock, the reverse wires to the auto shifter, the cruise controll to the auto shifter and you should be set and ready to cruise. Now the only thing left is for who to do the install?

Nobody knows. There were gears thousands of years ago.

Been wondering that myself for years. I was just looking under my hood for an unrelated issue and it made the noise. I can't be sure the exact source of the sound, but I believe it came from something associated with the ABS system (according to the markings on the component the sound seemed to have come from). The mystery continues...

Main relay to what? There is no "main relay". You have multiple relays for a variety of functions. There is what may be considered a main relay, it is a "circuit opening relay". It controls the function of a variety of circuits (I.E. fuel pump, ECM, starter). Goto AutoZone.com and look up your vehicle and see if their website gives you the location for this relay.

Actually there is a Main relay it is under the steering coluum it is a 10mm bolt that holds the hazard flashers and the Main relay it is a burnt brown color easy to fix best way is to take the kick panel off (the 2 Phillip screws) and a couple clips and you will a little black box and behind it there is the Main relay =)

fist and foremost, make sure you have ample daylight to do this, i learned the hard way. first you take out the speedo cable from the transmission, and feed it through the firewall, not all the way though. then you unscrew the pannels from under the steering wheel, glove box, and take out the shifter cover. there are two screws outside of the guage cluster that you have to remove. take off the a/c and a/c temp. control and there should be 3 screws, take those out. there is a screw hidden behind a tiny panel on the bottom most right part of the black dash panel, take that screw out as well. now you should be able to remove the whole black dash panel as one whole peice. unclip all of the switches from the back of the panel and remove it from your work area. there are 4 screws holding on the guage cluster that also needs to be removed. be careful pulling out the guage cluster because there are two clips or three clips depending on model that need to be removed as well. also, be careful not to pull the speedo cable off the connector, i also learned that the hard way. now you should be able to replace the cluster and just back track these steps to put it all back together

No. Besides, K series transmissions aren't nearly as good as B series transmissions.

underneath the dash, easy to see if you remove the bottom area of the dash below the steering wheel. its brown colored.

This location is likely the same for 94 and newer Integras.

In a 1994 Acura Integra, the relay was about the size of a twinkie though not as long and located slightly lower and to the left of the fuse panel which you can see by taking off the fuse access panel. It has a grey case and rust-colored wiring harness with 7 wires. A large metal tab is attached to the housing which bolts to some sheet metal. All useful marking face the firewall. Part number is likely RZ-0132.

If you are trying to locate the relay due to a problem with starting/restarting the car on hot days or when using the heater in winter and like DIY solutions try this: remove the relay from the vehicle. Carefully separate the housing from the relay guts. Grab a soldering iron and reheat all of the points on the circuit board and add a little solder if you have some on hand. In the 94 integra there was a hairline crack in the solder around one of the points. After re-melting with the iron the intermittent problem went away. They relay fires when the key is turned to "on" to prime the fuel system and clicks off when the check engine light extinguishes. By placing your hand on the installed relay, you should feel the unit click on with the key and click off when the check engine light goes off. When I was having the intermittent starting problems, the relay would not click on/off when the key was turned to "on."

Yes, that is one of hundreds of possibilities.

The shocks are a common replaceable part. They can be found or ordered at most any local auto parts or online dealer.

Yes. The 91 ls came with a b18 and that engine shares it's block with the b20. The new engine will drop in, but you will have to swap out some of the parts off of your old engine such as intake manifold, distributer, fuel rail, etc. The only modification you will need will be to extend the temp sensor wires to reach the new location by the thermostat housing as your old sensor is on the rear of the block. You can use your old motor mounts, transmission, harness, belt etc. on the new engine, and any bolt on modifications for the original engine will fit the b20 as well. The transmission bolts right up with no problems.