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It is a serpentine BELT , not hose.

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take off back seat ash tray and its right there

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hi man, just lift the front passenger side and check under it you will see the horn ( it is covered by a black plastick) then unplug the 2 wires behind it and remove the bolt that is holding it et voila !

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Is the noise from the belt or A/C pump? . If the noise if from pump but air con still works(blows cold) try a regass and make sure they pre-prime the ac pump with pag oil. If the pump isn't already dead!!!. Also if belt is suspect remove belt and turn all auxillary wheels by hand to check for seized parts.

i had this problem as well i thought it was my a/c because i heard the sound comming through my air vents but it actually ended up being my timing belt, it my be the same for you.

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hi peoples the answer is the disturbitor cap one number is 1342 and the other is 5432

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1342

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I think the code is located in the fuse box under the hood.

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..If it is stickshift it doesnot have a dipstick...AUTOMATIC HAS ONE RIGHT BELOW THE DIST....

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Your system is too lean. That's what it will say on obd2 scaner tool. It means that your air to fuel ratio is too lean.

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Driver side if intake manifold last cyl. up on top

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The firing order for a 1989 acura integra LS is 4-2-1-3 on distributor cap. That is clockwise(cw) with 4 @ the 12:00 position. With 4 being last cylinder on the driver's side. Hayne's auto repair was very helpful in finding this and actually had a picture of it in chapter with a diagram of the whole engine compartment.

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Anything is possible if you have enough money. Call a couple of local garages for estimates.

I imagine you could...but why would you want to....your better of trading someone with an automatic...and plus it is a very spendy procedure"shift locks, sensors, ect..."

Yes this is very possible and there are more people that have done it than you think. You will however have to buy a new tranny mount, new pedals from the manual, shift linkage, shifter, shifter boot, shifter cover panel, hydrolic lines, master and slave cylinders and probably alot more parts that i am leaving out but you could do it for under a grand if you found good deals on used parts.

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1-3-4-2 Cylinder #1 is on the driver's side of the engine.

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usdm should have a vin tag, jdm does not. If GSR USDM run the vin tag.

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easy its on the pass side fire wall in the motor bay. the size of a pop can with +/- male /female. 14 mm bolted fuel holes one from the pump the other the rail or the the intake manifold. now their two can type things . one is plastic the other steel. the plastic one is down lower this is the Charcole cansiter, the other is the Fuel filter, you will need a 14 mm socket an ratcht. 4 bolts 2 for the mount bracket, 2 for the fuel. take off the bracket an filter, so you can clean the bracket up, the filter will come out of the bracket use force. put it new one, hook up fuel line, bolt back in place.

fun fun fun

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To change headlights bulbs on 2001 Pathfinder Carefully remove rubber protectors around bulb Push bulb in and remove retaining ring, bulb will then pull out Do NOT touch new bulb as it will shorten life of bulb, use gloves or soft rag Reverse procces to install To change entire assembly remove screws from inside motor area, assembly is held by 4 screws and they are inserted into fragile plastic nuts (they get brittle with age)

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Follow the upper rad hose from the rad to engine and it is in a housing on the engine.

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Yes, it is possible to convert a manual into an automatic. I converted my automatic integra into a manual. It runs smooth as silk. To tell you the truth and not to discurage you, it would be easier to sell your manual or even trade it for somebodys automatic. There are many Integra lovers that would love to get their hands on a manual. If this is not possible here it goes. It will be even more expensive to convert to an automatic than it is to convert to a manual.Why? There are more electoronic components involved versus the manual.(sensors, shift lock, ect.) These are the parts: 1: Automatic transmission with sensors 2: torque converter and plate 3: automatic mid shaft(manual's is different) 4: shift cable 5: automatic pedal set (brake and gas) 6: automatic shifter complete with interlock switch and harness 7: automatic cluster 8: automatic ecu 9: automatic flywheel cover 10: rear transmission bracket and the lower transmission bracket( the manual ones is different ( trust me I know) You will also need the top transmission mount and the top transmission frame bracket that you can purchase at Acura for about $50. You will have to cut the manual off the frame, grind the welds down and weld the auto bracket in place. 11: You will need a wheel saw to cut away at the center console where the manual shifter is. you need to make room for the manual shifter and the shift cable 12: The center shift console needs to be changed as well. The manual one is smaller. 13: You need the auto flywheel plate bolts, the manual one are longer. 14: you need the automatic starter as well. 15: you need the automatic radiator, the manual one does not have the tranny oil cooler in it. 16: The only other thing brother is the electrical. You need to run two wires to the shift lock, the reverse wires to the auto shifter, the cruise controll to the auto shifter and you should be set and ready to cruise. Now the only thing left is for who to do the install?

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Make sure it isn't the tire causing the noise first- and then-

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

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its physically inside of the fuel tank. You must remove the back seats to get to the little plate that has three screws and take that off to get to it

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if you feel underneath the dashboard to the right of the steering column; you will find a button. push and hold it until the light goes off. It is hard to feel, it is probably best to just get down there and look for it. In my 1999 integra it is a little square blue button.

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I found this site, http://installdr.com/InstallDocs/Acura/Integra.html, hope it helps.

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On a 91 maxima there are two screws at the top of the center dash right above the heater/ac controls. Unscrew these and behind the larger plastic face plate is a couple more screws holding in the control unit.

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buy the repair manual for the car, it gives this repair step by step. It's also handy to have for future repairs and it only cost $15-$20. It's worth it.